What would mom say - Part II

[mcdowell]

Hmmm... How do you make mustard?

Prepared mustard is essentially a paste of ground mustard seed (mustard powder) and an acidic liquid, such as wine or vinegar, some number of spices or other flavor enhancers (such as horseradish, possibly), and salt and sugar.

Hot-dog style yellow mustard, for example, is a simple blend of 1/3 vinegar, 1/3 water, just under 1/3 yellow mustard powder, along with a helping of salt and sugar, tumeric, pepper, cloves, etc., and beaten into homogeny.

One of my favorite 'Dijon' recipes combines a paste of brown mustard and water with a white wine and cider vinegar reduction, seasoned with onion, shallot, garlic, and juniper berries; the resulting combination is then salted and sugared and left to mellow.

I have in the neighborhood of 62 mustard recipes that I'm working my way through. It's a secret passion. Don't tell mom.

[claire797]

McDowell,

Would you put some of your mustard recipes in the archive?  I once made mustard and had to throw it out because it was so bad.  I used bulk ground mustard seeds.  Do you think it would have been better had I used Coleman's or something.

Sorry to go off topic here.

I'm trying to think of a "What would mom say?" thing.

Would you mind posting one of your recipes, or are they secret?

[slkinsey]

Most of the non-foodie people I know are amazed that I even make spaghetti sauce and cookies from scratch, for goodness sake, never mind condiments.

Interesting... I guess my main obsession is that I must make everything from scratch. I really don't like using any premade food products at all, with the exception of condiments and specialty items like kimchi. This doesn't mean that I won't go to a bakery and buy bread or cookies... just that I won't buy premade frozen bread dough or a tube of cookie dough. I don't look down on these things or people who use them, I just can't use them myself.

It's interesting that you bring up spaghetti sauce. I'd guess that I haven't eaten a jarred tomato sauce in almost 20 years -- except once, at the home of some friends who were living in Indiana at the time. It was one of the most horrible things I can remember eating in years, and they were using one of the "high class" mass-produced brands.

[mcdowell]

Would you mind posting one of your recipes, or are they secret?

Nope, not secret at all, since everybody's mustard is derived from a few basic forms.

Here's my favorite Dijon:

cold water

1 c cider vinegar

1 c dry white wine (I usually use a Sauvignon Blanc)

1/2 c minced yellow onion (interesting results w/ sweet, such as vidalia, but first time out use "standard")

1/4 c minced shallot

3 Tbl minced garlic

1 bay leaf

1 tsp gin (or 2 tsp juniper berries - I prefer the gin, gives me something to do while I wait)

1/4 c ground yellow mustard seed

1/2 c ground brown mustard seed (I buy my mustard in bulk section @ whole foods)

2 tsp black peppercorns

2 Tbl chilled lemon juice

2 tsp kosher salt

2 tsp sugar

1) Make a paste with mustard powders and water.

2) Reduce by 2/3 combination of wine, vinegar, onion, shallot, garlic, peppercorn, gin, and bay leaf over medium heat.

3) Strain/Cover/Chill reduction

4) Combine in the pan the reduction, mustard paste, sugar, salt, and lemon juice; mix and let stand for 30 minutes

5) Simmer for 15 minutes.

6) Jar it and put it on a shelf in a cool out-of-the-way place.

Optimum results occur after about a month of aging. Of course, my idea of optimum and yours may be different, so check it every two weeks or so. If it's too wet, mix in some additional dry mustard; too dry, then add in some vinegar; too tangy, give it some more aging time.

Once it's where you want it flavor wise, refridgerate it to stop the mellowing process. It'll keep for a long while.

Edited June 25, 2003 by mcdowell (log)

[bilrus]

I might just have to try that one.

But what would my mother say about that?