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Posted

Hello, and welcome to another edition of our tour of eating around SE Asia!  I am happy to report that, unlike the last several trips in the past, there was only very minimal illness so our enjoyment of some ridiculous foodstuffs was mostly unhindered.  We usually try not to go to the same places so close together - we were in Jakarta last year, but we were only there for a couple days and barely scratched the surface.  Even this time, with about 5 days there we barely scratched the surface!  So, we decided to focus the Jakarta portion of this trip on Nasi Padang, aka Masakan Padang aka Padang food as it is extremely popular in Jakarta right now, even though it originated in the area of Padang, which is the NE part of the island of Sumatra (Jakarta is on the island of Java) - there are estimated to be at least 10,000 padang restaurants in Jakarta right now.  But I'm getting a bit ahead of myself.

 

As usual, our trip begins with Singapore Airlines, traveling from NYC JFK to Singapore, non-stop, the food from which can be found here. I am very happy that the route taken this time was over the North pole as sometimes they travel somewhere over the middle east which would make me a bit nervous nowadays....  our route:

 

PXL_20250702_132651982.thumb.jpg.3c9f88f0473e4d75bb964bb375ff8763.jpg

 

Once landing in Singapore, we had a few hours to kill before our flight to Jakarta (by design - there's multiple flights back and forth per day), so what better way to start than chicken rice?

 

Our favorite chicken rice vendor, Wee Nam Kee, had recently opened a branch (open 24 hours!) in the newly renovated Terminal 2 in the airport, located in what's called the Gourmet Garden.

 

PXL_20250702_220438858.thumb.jpg.42c38350723eff1da1dacf79819b7a3d.jpg

 

A close up of the chicken rice and accoutrements:

 

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Even in the airport, their chicken rice is what I consider to be perfect.  The chicken is so tender that you can cut it with a plastic spoon and the rice is fragrant with perfect texture.  They also have an area where you get as much sauces as you like - chilli sauce, grated ginger and sweet soy sauce.  They also have toasted sesame oil but I usually don't add any as I feel there's already enough there.  Also included is a portion of chicken soup - which is basically the chicken poaching liquid that is really chickeny and aromatic with green onion, garlic and ginger.

 

Another shot of the Gourmet Garden - there are several restaurants in this area

 

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including an old favorite for fried stuff, Old Chang Kee.  We got some crab nuggets and prawn nuggets:

 

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While in T2, we also stopped by a new attraction, the sunflower garden, located on the roof of the terminal:

 

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Next stop, Jakarta!

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks

 

I've been looking forward to your report. And so glad that, for once, you didn't get sick!

 

Roll on, part two!

 

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
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...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted
1 hour ago, KennethT said:

Hello, and welcome to another edition of our tour of eating around SE Asia!  I am happy to report that, unlike the last several trips in the past, there was only very minimal illness so our enjoyment of some ridiculous foodstuffs was mostly unhindered.  We usually try not to go to the same places so close together - we were in Jakarta last year, but we were only there for a couple days and barely scratched the surface.  Even this time, with about 5 days there we barely scratched the surface!  So, we decided to focus the Jakarta portion of this trip on Nasi Padang, aka Masakan Padang aka Padang food as it is extremely popular in Jakarta right now, even though it originated in the area of Padang, which is the NE part of the island of Sumatra (Jakarta is on the island of Java) - there are estimated to be at least 10,000 padang restaurants in Jakarta right now.  But I'm getting a bit ahead of myself.

 

As usual, our trip begins with Singapore Airlines, traveling from NYC JFK to Singapore, non-stop, the food from which can be found here. I am very happy that the route taken this time was over the North pole as sometimes they travel somewhere over the middle east which would make me a bit nervous nowadays....  our route:

 

PXL_20250702_132651982.thumb.jpg.3c9f88f0473e4d75bb964bb375ff8763.jpg

 

Once landing in Singapore, we had a few hours to kill before our flight to Jakarta (by design - there's multiple flights back and forth per day), so what better way to start than chicken rice?

 

Our favorite chicken rice vendor, Wee Nam Kee, had recently opened a branch (open 24 hours!) in the newly renovated Terminal 2 in the airport, located in what's called the Gourmet Garden.

 

PXL_20250702_220438858.thumb.jpg.42c38350723eff1da1dacf79819b7a3d.jpg

 

A close up of the chicken rice and accoutrements:

 

PXL_20250702_220502330.thumb.jpg.baf5883c73e3913618e036bd4660dc28.jpg

 

Even in the airport, their chicken rice is what I consider to be perfect.  The chicken is so tender that you can cut it with a plastic spoon and the rice is fragrant with perfect texture.  They also have an area where you get as much sauces as you like - chilli sauce, grated ginger and sweet soy sauce.  They also have toasted sesame oil but I usually don't add any as I feel there's already enough there.  Also included is a portion of chicken soup - which is basically the chicken poaching liquid that is really chickeny and aromatic with green onion, garlic and ginger.

 

Another shot of the Gourmet Garden - there are several restaurants in this area

 

PXL_20250702_221938552_MP.thumb.jpg.ab0ecc9057ffc8770c5be5f1592944a0.jpg

 

including an old favorite for fried stuff, Old Chang Kee.  We got some crab nuggets and prawn nuggets:

 

PXL_20250702_223143500.thumb.jpg.44d97a69308521d809f5ee16e2eba2a6.jpg

 

While in T2, we also stopped by a new attraction, the sunflower garden, located on the roof of the terminal:

 

PXL_20250702_230147150.thumb.jpg.7323c1534ce3f480f98a0888010fd834.jpg

 

PXL_20250702_225610693.thumb.jpg.97b263db30f3f5b00a1e73a444eddcd1.jpg

 

Next stop, Jakarta!

 

 

Yay!!!!  I've been waiting for this :) .   I'm starving.  That chicken and rice looks sooooo good.  And, love love love the sunflower garden.  Looks like Kansas.

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Posted

Our flight to Jakarta landed on time, around 10:30AM and we breezed through their immigration, thanks to the autogates utilizing facial recognition software and using their E-VOA (electronic visa on arrival).  Because it's Jakarta and their horrendous traffic, we probably got to the hotel around 1PM.  At this point, we weren't really hungry at all - that Singapore Airlines business class (upgraded using miles) can really stuff you to the gills! - and then eating more in the Singapore Airport and again on the Singapore Airlines flight to Jakarta - so we just took a much needed nap until around 6 or so, the plan being to wake up and get dinner, and then go back to bed, hopefully getting onto Jakarta time as fast as possible, which worked well for the most part.

 

Our hotel is connected to a large mall which has tons of restaurants plus a food court which takes up a whole floor.  We decided to go to a well known sate restaurant chain, Sate Khas Senayan (literally sate from Senayan), which serves food from the islands of Java and Bali.  More info (including quite an exhaustive menu) here: https://sks.sarirasa.co.id/menu

 

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As we were exhausted, we just kept things simple by ordering some sate and a vegetable:

 

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Lamb sate - 7 skewers of lamb pieces, with each skewer having a piece of lamb fat, and 3 minced lamb sausage skewers (my favorite), sitting on sweet soy sauce with some chopped shallot and ground chilli sambal.  To me, there is little in the world better than a nicely grilled piece of lamb fat with sweet soy sauce and chilli.  I'm drooling sitting here thinking about it!

 

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Chicken skewers covered in sambal

 

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Stir fried kangkong (water spinach) with sambal terasi (shrimp paste, chillies, shallot, garlic)

 

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Traditional accompaniment - lontong - rice cakes cooked in banana leaf.

 

All told, about $15 at the current rate of exchange which is about 1USD = 16,200IDR.  After this, straight back to the hotel and to bed!!!

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Posted

Looking forward to reading more about your eating adventures.  I always have a bottle of ketjap manis in the cupboard.  Good stuff.

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Posted

Breakfast was included in our hotel price, which is great because this hotel's breakfast buffet was amazing thanks, in large part, to there being a lot of domestic travelers staying there so they had a lot of Indonesian options.  They also had sushi, some chinese dim sum type stuff and western stuff (omelettes, yogurt, cheese/meats, etc.) that we didn't partake in.

 

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Gulai is like a thin curry using similar ingredients to rendang.

 

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with shrimp crackers, green and red sambal.  In padang food, these are the primary sambals - called, unimaginatively, sambal ijo (green sambal) and sambal merah (red sambal).  Neither one are super spicy, but definitely add a lot of flavor.

 

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Colo-colo is a condiment/sambal type from eastern Indonesia and typically served with fish/seafood.

 

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The fish was really meaty and nicely cooked.  With squid ink crackers.

 

PXL_20250704_011558618.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL.thumb.jpg.5e6644e5e2abf1a53e215abb7e1be42e.jpg

Fantastic pineapple

 

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Turmeric jamu - this is supposedly healthy - it's made from (at least) ground turmeric, ginger and lime juice.

 

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My wife got some of the chinese dim sum - I don't kow what it was though.

 

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Lastly, I got some beef soup with beef balls and some kind of fish ball that is made from both fish/shrimp paste.

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Posted (edited)

After breakfast, we headed to the supermarket located in the mall connected to our hotel to get some fruit for our room.  This is the same supermarket as before.

 

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Durian - you could smell this around the corner in the mall...

 

After picking up a bunch of mangoes (they had no mangosteen on this day, but had some later on), we went off for some sightseeing.  We decided to see the National Monument

 

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It's in the largest public square in SE Asia.  It's here where we became a tourist attraction ourselves, again, as this is a large attraction for domestic tourists visiting Jakarta.  The young girl in the turquoise shirt above desperately wanted photos of us (mostly my wife because she has red hair) so we spent about 10 minutes taking photos with the whole family.  They then stayed with us while walking around, the young girl asking my wife lots of questions - like what were her hobbies, etc.  You can go to the top of the monument, but to do so required standing on a long line, so we decided to skip it - especially considering that there really isn't much to see.

 

We then continued walking around the area on the way to the main mosque, the largest in Asia, only to find it closed - we forgot that it was Friday...

 

Some walking around photos:

 

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PXL_20250704_063330228.thumb.jpg.b9c28c9659e5b2a817865aa3894c0cab.jpg

 

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Edited by KennethT (log)
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Posted

@Shelby The young girl was so sweet and shy - we couldn't ignore her.  Basically, we saw her talking to her mother about us and then the mother approached us and asked for permission.  They were so happy when we agreed for some pictures, and then proceeded to have pictures taken with at least 4 phones because everyone wanted their own.  So, of course, we then gave them our phone for our own set!

 

The mangoes were ok.  I still haven't found an Indonesian mango that I love like some of the Thai ones.  Some were juicy but pretty flavorless and some smelled like they were doused in a bucked of perfume.  Most were fiberless, but not all.

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Posted

We decided to go back to a padang restaurant that we visited on the last trip since it was relatively close to the monument... Medan Baru.

 

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In the window, you can see several of the dishes they're working on:

 

PXL_20250704_073309298.thumb.jpg.fe7e86fa5e7a9cbd6f7a451a881ae764.jpg

 

So, I think I explained this in the last Jakarta trip, but this is the way a typical Padang restaurant works - most dishes are already pre-made in large quantities or ready to be finished quickly.  When you sit down at the table, they bring over a large selection of dishes and leave them at your table.  Once you finish eating, the server tabulates what you've eaten and provides the bill - each plate they bring is a small portion - if you try any of it, then it's yours.  This place does it a little differently - when you sit down, a couple of servers bring over a few trays of dishes for you to pick from, like a display model, and then they bring your order immediately after you make your choices.

 

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After we ordered, I walked back to the area where they kept the display models to take the photos.  In this restaurant, they've covered the dishes with plastic wrap and added labels!  Also, we ordered a few dishes that are not displayed but that they either make or can make.  I did this by giving my Indonesian a workout... hehe...

 

PXL_20250704_065318821_MP.thumb.jpg.b67837b1569a58d995629c83ecdf6213.jpg

Dendeng balado.  Balado is a typical padang preparation involving (typically) 3 types of chillies, shallots, garlic, and lots of other stuff.  It is incredibly addictive.  Almost anything can and will be balado-ified - chicken, beef, shrimp, eggs, tempeh, you name it.  Dendeng are thin slices of beef that are simmered in the balado spice paste, then fried and covered with the balado mixture.  This was a great version - it had a really nice smokey-ness to it.

 

PXL_20250704_065327082.thumb.jpg.6e82bf75971d3e0716be485a2bba4152.jpg

The vegetable at the bottom is singkong - cassava leaves.  They're the most common padang vegetable and are usually available either just plain boiled (served with sambal) or like this in a mild turmeric curry.  We also got a plate of the sambal merah (red sambal) and the sambal ijo (green sambal).  Their sambal ijo was quite oily - it was swimming.  Typically (and also the last time we were there) the sambal just sits in a small puddle of oil.  Both sambal merah and ijo are both fried sambals.

 

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Ayam goreng serundeng.  Fried chicken.  Many times (as you'll see later on) the serundeng (the brown crumbly stuff) is piled on top of the chicken - here they gave it to us separately.  The chicken is first simmered in a spice paste which can vary in ingredients.  Some are very galangal heavy, or shallot heavy while others, like this one, have candlenuts being the main ingredient.  Near the end of simmering, grated coconut is added.  Once done, the chicken is removed and drained, as well as the solids of the simmering liquid.  The chicken is then fried and then the solids are fried and piled on top.  To me, it's the best fried chicken ever.  This candlenut heavy version is very earthy but my favorite is the galangal heavy version.

 

PXL_20250704_065322936.thumb.jpg.9281a1776ab8ceb72c1e1e57346a1b8c.jpg

Lamb (or goat) curry.  The word for lamb and goat is the same in Indonesian, so I'm not sure which this is - this portion was mostly ribs and other knuckle type meat.  The curry sauce is similar to rendang, but not cooked as long so it dries out.  It has a strong flavor of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg.

 

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This restaurant is known for its fish head curry.  They have 3 different sizes - this is the small but there was a ton of meat on this head.  The curry was really unctuous with tons of coconut cream and quite mild.

 

Once finished, we rolled out of there and went back to the hotel for some tea/relaxing by the pool time.

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Posted

By the time we were finished with tea/pool time, we were exhausted (we were still jetlagged) so we went to the food court at the mall for something quick to eat and so we wouldn't take forever to get somewhere in the Jakarta traffic.

 

PXL_20250704_131012087.thumb.jpg.7dcc15d1d1bb923f051abe45c68ece14.jpg

 

The food court takes up most of the mall's 4th floor and has tons of choices - many Indonesian, but there's also a few Korean places, some Japanese - even a KFC...  It's design is that it's hard to see how many places there are as it snakes around....  Most places make the food to order and provide you with a buzzer so you know when your food is ready.

 

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Duck with sambal hitam (the dark brown stuff) and sambal terasi.  Sambal hitam comes from east Java - from the island of Madura just off of the city of Surabaya.  It's typically served with fried duck or fried chicken.  It is absolutely delicious but I don't know what's in it, yet.  This is definitely one thing I intend to learn to make - I'll put a recipe in RecipEgullet when I get it how I want it.  Sambal terasi is a fried chilli sambal that includes shrimp paste.

 

PXL_20250704_124802333_MP.thumb.jpg.67b1878f83bf4a04fde0c32856ee37ff.jpg

Fried chicken - came with sambal terasi.  While the portions were small (as is typical) we weren't that hungry as we had such a big lunch so it was fine as it was.  It also came with rice, unpictured.

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Posted

This may be a dumb question, but are all sambals spicy?  I use sambal oelek so I know that one is, but I'm wondering if they all are?

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Posted
16 minutes ago, ElsieD said:

This may be a dumb question, but are all sambals spicy?  I use sambal oelek so I know that one is, but I'm wondering if they all are?

I don't think they all are - for example, I don't remember the sambal hitam (the black one) being spicy at all - it may not even have any chillies in it.  But for other sambals, they vary depending on the region.  I don't think that the padang sambal ijo and merah are very spicy at all, but a sambal called dabu-dabu from Manado (on the island of Sulawesi) made traditionally, not for tourists, will blow your head off.  But people from Manado pride themselves on having the spiciest food in all of Indonesia.... But it's all relative.  What I may find mild, you may find very spicy so it's hard to say.  And people's spice tolerance can change over time.  My wife used to be sensitive to spicy food and couldn't tolerate much - now she piles on the sambal - at one point at breakfast, she made herself a plate of 5 different sambal and just went to town with the shrimp chips!

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Posted

I used to be able to eat spicy food but my husband wouldn't go near it.  Now, in my older age, I can't eat anything too spicy, but my husband laps it up.  One time when we were in a Vietnamese restaurant we used to frequent, the chef came out and presented him with a Bird's Eye chili.  My husband happily ate it up.  Go figure.  I make a Scotch Bonnet hot sauce that he loves - i can't go near the stuff.  I make it in my Thermomix on the balcony.

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Posted

Breakfast the next day at the hotel:

 

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Sur la plate:

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Gulai is the thinnest of curries on the way to rendang - it's soupy.  With sambal ijo and merah and the squiggly thing is a fish based puffed cracker.

 

PXL_20250705_003559084.thumb.jpg.14b8a32dabff9d2557e2865291031eff.jpg

 

This is basically chicken cooked in sambal ijo...

 

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With even more sambal ijo/merah, and some stir fried bok choy with a lot of garlic, and shrimp chips.

 

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More jamu

 

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The hotel also has an in-house patisserie and some of their wares are available during breakfast as part of the buffet....  this is a coconut creme brulee.

 

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Japanese souffle pancake - we weren't huge fans of this

 

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Chicken tongseng - like a thin soupy curry, with shrimp chips.

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Posted

After breakfast, we decided to try to walk around an area that was supposed to be among the most walkable in Jakarta - turns out, there really wasn't much to see there, so no interesting photos. 

 

For lunch, we went to a different local padang restaurant...

 

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A lot of padang restaurants put their dishes in the window.

 

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The selection provided as we sat down.  Quite a few of the dishes are wrapped in plastic - to prevent contamination from one table to the next if not eaten, but not all of them for some reason.

 

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One dish we ordered - paru goreng - fried beef lung.  This is a padang classic and is like a delicious meat cracker.  This one was even better than others we had as it had an almost puffed texture to it.  Most places make it so it's a little hard and you have to gnaw on it a bit but this one was almost crispy.  Delicious with sambal ijo.

 

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Chicken balado

 

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Fried chicken serundeng - this is how it's normally presented unlike the restaurant before where the serundeng was served alongside.  This serundeng was (I think) more shallot heavy than candlenut based.

 

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More singkong (cassava leaves) in thin curry

 

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Their version of beef rendang - while the sauce is thick, it's definitely not as thick as it should be in theory - as you'll see later on...

 

After lunch, we headed back to the hotel for some more pool time.

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Posted (edited)

We were still getting tired pretty early, so we decided to have dinner at a good looking Indonesian restaurant in the mall.... but before then, we stopped at the supermarket for more mangoes for the room:

 

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These are Kluwek (aka keluak, aka kluwak) - black nuts.  For scale, each nut is about 2 inches or so across.  They are hard as rocks - you need to hit them with a hammer to open them!  Inside, the meat is oily and is like a smooth paste.  In Indonesia, it's commonly used in a dish from East Java called Rawon, which is like a soup - we had it last time here.  In Peranakan Singapore/Malaysian food, it's used in a few dishes, but one that I like to make at home a lot is called ayam buah keluak (buah keluak is the name of the nut) - typically, to cook, you scoop out the meat, season with salt and a little sugar, sometimes mix with ground pork, and stuff back into the shell then cook in the sauce with the chicken.  The flavor of keluak is really hard to describe - it is chocolately, earthy, but also has a fermented almost alcoholic quality to it as the nut is actually fermented!  When first harvested, the nuts have cyanide inside and must be treated in a lengthy process in order to be edible.  It is first roasted, and then buried in the ashes for about a month (hence the fermentation).  It is then cleaned and ready for sale.  In order to use at home, it is typically soaked in water for 5 days or so, changing the water every day - only then is it ready to be cracked open.  A lot of work, but sooo worth it.

 

The restaurant for dinner:

 

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The menu was exhaustive!!!  I think they tried to have dishes from almost every region in Indonesia!!!

https://menu.remboelan.com/

 

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Every table has a basket of crackers (krupuk).  We took some shrimp crackers - really shrimpy.

 

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Stir fried kangkong (water spinach)

 

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White rice

 

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Chicken with sambal penyet  - the chicken is marinated, then boiled, then fried and then smashed in a mortar with the sambal made from chillies, shallot, garlic, tomato, etc.

 

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Whole fish (I don't remember what type, but it was meaty with no small bones) in sauce Woku, from Manado which is in North Sulawesi.  We will be heading to that area soon for some diving, but we'll be staying at a hotel on a small island, and the food there is certainly Westernized so I thought this would be a good time to have it in a way made more for locals.  We also had it a few times when in Manado previously a couple years ago - you can see it here, but scroll down a bit.  The spice paste is made from shallots, galangal, garlic, turmeric, etc. but also is made with a bunch of sliced herbs like pandan, turmeric leaf and Thai basil.

 

Once we got back to the hotel room, we set up our supermarket haul:

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Mangosteen.... my favorite!!!

 

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Edited by KennethT (log)
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Posted (edited)

Breakfast the next day:

 

Beef soup station:

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beef meatballs, fish wontons and fried fish wontons, shredded cabbage and bean sprouts

 

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wheat noodles (in the back), rice noodles, (l-r) kecap manis, chilli sauce, sambal, fried shallots

 

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Rice and wheat noodles with beef meatballs and beef broth

 

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Beef in thin curry

 

From the patisserie:

 

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Bolu serang semut - caramel cake that typically looks like an ant nest, with walnut, fruit and vanilla sauce

 

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Chocolate ganache with candied orange in the center, topped with cocoa nibs

 

You may be wondering, "why so many desserts" for breakfast?  Sometime around mid-meal, I started not feeling so well - when that happens, I tend to get a sweet tooth!  Turned out that my wife was also not feeling 100%, so we decided to just lay around the pool for most of the day so that we could rest and hopefully knock whatever we had out of our system.

 

At the pool, we had a few pots of ginger tea and some jasmine tea and started to feel a bit better in time to have a late lunch there:

 

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Fried chicken

 

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Beef burger with bacon and onion rings.  The onion rings were perfect - crisp but you could bite through cleanly.

 

Since we had a late lunch and weren't really hungry, we just went to bed early, hoping to wake up feeling 100%.

 

Edited by KennethT (log)
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Posted
1 hour ago, KennethT said:

The menu was exhaustive!!!  I think they tried to have dishes from almost every region in Indonesia!!!

https://menu.remboelan.com/

 

 

Wow, what a menu! Like a culinary tour of the archipelago?  🙂

 

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Posted (edited)

Breakfast the next day - this is the last breakfast at this hotel as we would be leaving for the airport before breakfast opened the next day:

 

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Tongseng is like a thin soup or stew

 

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complete with stir fried bok choy, green and red sambals and some puffed beef skin crackers.  I missed those crackers the days before - they are so addictive!

 

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Fantastic pineapple

 

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Green chilli chicken - the same as the other day

 

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With more sambal, a squid ink cracker and more puffed beef skin crackers

 

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A chocolate hazelnut dessert because vacation!

 

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The center

 

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On the right is a pandan gel with palm sugar gel on top.  On the left, inside the banana leaf:

 

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Pandan glutinous rice (like mochi) filled with:

 

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shredded coconut cooked in palm sugar

 

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At one point, my wife just loaded up on shrimp chips, beef skin crackers, squid ink crackers and a variety of sambal.  The green and red sambals you've seen before... on the left is a peanut sambal that is sweetened with palm sugar.

 

Very sad that this is the last day at this breakfast buffet!!!!

Edited by KennethT (log)
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Posted

After breakfast we went out to a local market:

 

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This is a closeup of the left side of the bin in shadow above.  Here you have klewak (aka keluak, aka kluwak, aka buah keluak).  To the right of that is turmeric.  Even further right, not pictured here, is kencur, ginger and galangal with some roaches walking around them for good measure.

 

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Two types of chillies - in the foreground is cabe rawit - what they call Thai chillies but they are different - definitely more plump and fleshy than a standard Thai chilli but just as spicy.  I don't know if theyr'e a different cultivar or if they're harvest later and are more ripe.  To the right is cabe keriting (curly chilli) - these are typically 4-6 inches long and medium spicy.  I'm pictured looking at some galangal that is so fresh, it's pink.

 

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Bok choy, cabbage, chayote squash, green and red tomatoes (it's common for the red tomatoes to be under ripe - they're used for their acidity).

 

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Various dried/fermented fish/shrimp

 

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closeup

 

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The leafy stuff is pandan, rhizomes in the baskets above it, lemongrass

 

After the market, we went to see Masjid Istiqlal - the main mosque and the largest mosque in SE Asia.  It is gigantic! It can hold about 200,000 people and does so a few days a year.

 

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Each rectangle is the space for 1 person to pray

 

 

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After view the mosque, we went to lunch at the last padang restaurant of the trip.  This one is a large chain of padang restaurants - they have probably around 20 locations, if not more...

 

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Restoran Sederhana

 

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Our table once we were seated...

 

Of course, we had to order more paru goreng - fried beef lung:

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This one wasn't as crispy and light as the one in the other place.

 

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Classic beef rendang.  This is supposedly how the original rendang is supposed to be - everything else, with more sauce, etc are regional variations.  The flavor of this was so deep, spiced with cinnamon, clove and nutmeg. True rendang should also not be made with any sugar - although Malaysian versions typically use palm sugar.  Also, it's one of the few things that don't use any MSG - instead, it uses a serundeng of toasted coconut that is pounded into a paste.  Gallons of coconut milk are boiled down to this dry paste over about 8 hours.  The beef was so tender you cut it with a spoon.

 

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Singkong in mild turmeric curry

 

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Dendeng balado - this didn't have the smokiness of the first place and their balado had more shallots - I think this is the most typical version and the smoky version was a delicious outlier.

 

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Lamb gulai.  Gulai uses spices similar to rendang but not cooked that long so it stays thin.

 

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Sambal ijo.

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We were leaving early the next morning - our flight to Manado left around 9AM, so with Jakarta's traffic, we needed to leave the hotel around 6, all of which means that we wanted to have an early and fast dinner... so back to the food court at the mall!

 

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This place makes mostly grilled or fried chicken or duck.

 

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Fried duck with sambal hitam (the dark brown paste on top), with a side of sambal terasi.  Sambal hitam is not spicy at all, and comes from the island of Madura, just off the coast of Surabaya in east Java.  Most recipes I can find for sambal hitam say that it contains kluwak, which would definitely help in turning it such a dark brown, almost black color (hitam means black in Indonesian).  This would also make sense since the other dish that I know of from that area, rawon, the beef soup, also uses kluwak.  The sambal terasi is quite spicy and contains shrimp paste, for which it is named.

 

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Grilled chicken with sambal matah.  Sambal matah is the most common sambal in Bali.  It is one of the few sambal in the Indonesian canon that are "raw" and not fried.  I put raw in quotes because the finishing step is to pour hot oil over the sliced mixture which does cook it slightly.  It's also a sliced sambal, as opposed to most others that are pounded or ground.  It is made up of mainly shallots, lemongrass, chillies, kaffir lime leaves, garlic, shrimp paste and lime juice.  Both duck and chicken were cooked well and both really good.  It's so nice to have a mall with a huge food court attached to the hotel!!

 

In the airport the next morning, we had plenty of time to sit down at a restaurant after checking our bags.  A location of Sate Khas Senayan is in Terminal 3, so, sate it is!

 

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Ginger tea

 

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Stir fried kangkong (water spinach) with shrimp paste

 

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Chicken sate lilit.  Sate lilit is common in Bali - it uses minced meat and seasonings but not in a casing.  Many times it is made from fish.  This one is served with sambal matah, again from Bali.

 

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Chicken sausage sate, in casing, sitting in sweet soy sauce with crushed chillies and sliced shallots.

 

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Lamb sate - both cubed lamb (with that delicious piece of lamb fat) and lamb sausage.

 

So that's it for the Jakarta portion of this trip!  Up next, an island off the coast of Manado, in North Sulawesi.

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