Wine Tasting Notes 2003

[pixelchef]

Thanks Katie for posting -- I couldn't agree with you more. It *IS* the perfect wine for romance. Your scenario (summer, strawberries, and love) sounds perfect. Sigh, indeed.

I need to call my fiancée.

[guajolote]

I haven't had this particular Moscato but I love them in general. I liked how Katie snuck in the word "frizzante" like a true wine geek. I have had parties where I serve half a bottle of Moscato d'Asti for an apertif, then used the rest of the bottle for a dessert wine.

[davidbdesilva]

I love this wine as well and think it is very underestimated by others. The best are very well made and I liken them to drinking liquid sunshine. My favorites are from Vietti and Vignaioli di Sante Stefano (hard to find but worth seeking out). Katie, you'll be pleased to know that ever since I took that course in Italian wines with you (by Marnie Old), I have returned to my first wine love and now am drinking primarily only Italian wines. I think they are the best in the world (though my francophile friends might disagree with me!).

[mamster]

This has become the standard anniversary wine in our house. I don't know why it's so automatically romantic, but it is.

[Craig Camp]

I have returned to my first wine love and now am drinking primarily only Italian wines. I think they are the best in the world (though my francophile friends might disagree with me!).

You will get no argument from me.

Moscato d'Asti is one of those wonderful simple pleasures of life. Refreshing and uplifting without requiring much thought - just enjoyment.

My favorite is the Marcarini.

[KatieLoeb]

I love this wine as well and think it is very underestimated by others. The best are very well made and I liken them to drinking liquid sunshine. My favorites are from Vietti and Vignaioli di Sante Stefano (hard to find but worth seeking out). Katie, you'll be pleased to know that ever since I took that course in Italian wines with you (by Marnie Old), I have returned to my first wine love and now am drinking primarily only Italian wines. I think they are the best in the world (though my francophile friends might disagree with me!).

Hi David!

We were serving the Moscato Stephano at Rouge by the glass for awhile. Everyone loves it, and it's perfect for sipping sunshine, whilst sitting IN the sunshine! Great analogy!

I'm right there with you on the Italian wines. That class was quite informative and I've been making use of that information both professionally, and personally. I've been finding some great bargains of IGT second label Super Tuscan type wines over in NJ (shhh-h-h-h) and have been enjoying those quite regularly.

As for your Francophile friends, well, apparently there is a lot more available in the market for them lately as there seems to be a not so silent boycott going on. I'm not sure it's really the best way to make a political statement, but the way we've been handling it here is instructing the servers as to which wines are a good "switch to" choice for customers that are making their displeasure with the French known at tableside, for example, a "Burgundian styled" Pinot Noir from Oregon, or a Bordeaux style blend aged in French oak from Foris Vineyards, etc. That seems to be working well, as we're not down in wine sales overall. Mercifully, the advantage of having a broad list is being able to do that and not lose the sale.

["T"]

Savigny-les- Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Guettes 1999

Mediun garnet at core fading to light red at the rim.

Sharp leafy characters initially on the nose giving way to cherry, strawberry and cinnamon.

Medium acid and slightly lower tannin on the palate. Smooth and supple mouthfeel. Palate mimics the nose with cherry flavours along with light floral, toasted cinnamon component in the finish. Length that goes on and on and on.

Domaine A-F Gros Vosne-Romanee AC Aux Reas 1999

Medium to medium dark red at the core fading to red just at the rim.

Medium intense to well pronounced aromas of cherries and stewed plums on the nose.

Medium + acidity and slightly lower tannin. Palate mimics the fruit but more so. Also floral, spice, earthy components galore. Much more body than the Savigny. Wonderful mouthfeel, jammy fruit and well balanced.

A wonderful wine that was fine to drink now but will keep for years still. Progressing well, hope to try again every 18 months until it runs out, which is in another 36 months.

[KatieLoeb]

Hi all:

Just returned from a most informative and interesting Bordeaux class this evening, taught by my good friend and mentor, Marnie Old. We discussed the historical aspects of Bordeaux production, a bit about the geography of the area and quite a bit about the tradition of blending wines to create the style for which Bordeaux is so reknowned. Finished up with a discussion about the 1855 classification system. Fascinating stuff.

The wines we tried this evening were (in order):

- Baron de Rothschild "Reserve Speciale" Blanc 2001 (the only white we tried, as the discussion focused quite naturally on the Merlot and Cabernet based blends)

- Baron de Rothschild "Mouton Cadet" 2000 (a good "training wheels" Bordeaux selection)

- Chateau Bertineau-St. Vincent Lalande de Pomerol 1999

- Chateau Simard St. Emilion 1990 (an excellent example for the class on the effects of bottle aging - this was DELICIOUS I might add )

- Chateau Greysac Medoc 1998

- Chateau Haut-Beausejour St. Estephe 1996 (also a fave of mine)

- Chateau Croizet Bages Pauillac Grand Cru Classe 2000 (a little tight, but still, you could sense the future potential for this wine. This is going to be unbelievably delicious in a few years!)

- Chateau Peyraguey le Rousset 1998 Sauternes - Finished up with some potable and bargain priced ($13/375 ml) Sauternes that was pretty tasty.

I really enjoyed myself and feel that I definitely have a clearer picture of the geography and history of Bordeaux. If anyone thinks I've missed anything crucial feel free to pipe up while this is still fresh info. If I wait too long it all enters that void in my brain where old information goes...

[davidbdesilva]

Katie, I regret not being there to drink (and not spit!) with you. It sounds like it was a great class (can Marnie teach a bad class? I don't think so). I'm glad you commented on the Simard St. Emillion and that it was good. This is one wine that seems to be readily available in Pa. wine stores and I've always wondered if it was good. I have enjoyed Chateau Greysac and think it is a reasonably priced and well made Medoc. I recently bought a bottle of 2000 Ch. Haut-Beausejour so I'm glad you liked that too. Hope to be bending the elbow with you again some time while listening to Marnie's expertise!

[mogsob]

I always thought that Mouton Cadet was downright nasty. Perhaps 2000 proved that anyone could make at least drinkable wine.

While interesting, the class did not seem to impart any knowledge of terroir. In particular, the absence of a good St. Julien sticks out, as its terrior is the most unique and interesting in Bordeaux. The class also seemed to focus on inexpensive Bordeaux, which has never been (imho) good value when compared with other regions.

[KatieLoeb]

I always thought that Mouton Cadet was downright nasty.  Perhaps 2000 proved that anyone could make at least drinkable wine.

These were included as the "control" wine, I think. Very middle of the road in terms of the criteria we used to evaluate all the wines. Dry (low sweetness), medium acidity, medium fruit intensity, barely noticeable oak component, low tannin, low-to-medium bodied (in terms of alcohol percentage). Of course this left lots of room for improvement for the better wines. Also, the Mouton Cadet is (perhaps sadly) a pretty typical example of what the world at large thinks of as Bordeaux, so it was a good starting point for the purpose of illustration. We usually taste 8 wines per class, so the absence of the St. Julien was unfortunate, but understandable.

While interesting, the class did not seem to impart any knowledge of terroir.  In particular, the absence of a good St. Julien sticks out, as its terrior is the most unique and interesting in Bordeaux.  The class also seemed to focus on inexpensive Bordeaux, which has never been (imho) good value when compared with other regions.

We did discuss terroir and soil, I just neglected to mention it in my original post. It was late and I was sleepy, having attended two wine tastings in the afternoon, prior to class. I had to spit at those, knowing I had a class coming up that evening.

The Chateau Bertineau-St. Vincent was quite a bargain (at least in PA) at $13. Considering that the Mouton Cadet retails at about $9 here in PA, the 4 dollar price increase was a pretty big leap in quality. Finding any drinkable Bordeaux for under $15 I think is a feat.

The classes are only $45 per person for a 2.5 hour class and eight or nine wines. Considering that, I think we tasted some pretty decent wines and received a facinating and well prepared lecture. I certainly feel like I walked out of there with more knowledge than when I went in.

["T"]

Pinot d' Alsace 2000

Pale yellow gold at the core fading to a watry yellow rim.

Medium pronounced aromas of freshly cut grass, wet stone and a hint of sandalwood on the nose.

Dry, low-medium acid. Fairly pronounced fruit intensity on the palate. Warm peach, apricot,sweet melon. Smooth mouthfeel. Long length of all fruiy components ending with a bit of spice.

Muscat Herreng de Turkheim 1999

Brilliant gold at core fading to a yellow rim.

Very pronounced aromas of ripe sweet fruit. Pineapples, cantalope, lemons. Very well developed.

Dry, medium acid, palate mimics the nose. Full rich flavours, great body, smooth mouthfeel. Big flavours of honey, pineaplle, grapefruit. Long length with a touch of bitterness at the end.

Riesling Gueberschiwihr 1997

Pale yellow, bright highlights.

Medium pronounced aromas of petrol, fresh cut grass, mushroomy, damp earth.

Dry. Medium acid. Intense flavours. Sweet fermented fruit. Peach pit, dried apricots. Feels fuller in the mouth than appearance leads one to believe. Long length of ripe apples, apricots, peach , wet stones.

Amazing wine.

Riesling Herrenweig de Turkheim 2000

Pale yellow gold at core to a watery rim.

Medium + intesity on the nose of candied pineapple, wine gums, sweet candied grapefruit.

Sweet. Medium acidity that lingers in perfect balance with the sweetness and fruit. Intense pineapple, honeydew, sandalwood on the finish. Long smooth length last goes on and on.

Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim 2000

Medium yellow gold at core fading to a watery rim. Great legs.

Intense candied lime aromas. Musky, grapefruit, sandalwood on the nose. Very pronounced.

Dry. Medium acidity. Wow. Wopper flavours. Musky, fermenting ripe fruit. Cedar plank, honesuckle,peaches, spice. Long length, great consentration of flavours. All aspects acid, fruit alcohol are in perfect balance and will certainly improve over the next many years.

Tried a few more ZH wines but my fingers(ok, two fingers and one thumb) are getting tired.

[Florida Jim]

The 1989 vintage in Barbaresco produced rich, ripe wines of excellent quality and sound acidity. An abundant harvest, most are dense, alcoholic and chewy. In Nieve, Bernardino Gastaldi, made a Rosso that year which bears his name and exemplifies the character of the vintage. However, it would take many years to develop into the great wine that it is today.

In the early 1990’s, I bought a case of this wine. It has shown immense promise on each occasion I have tasted it but the tannins have been overwhelming – until now.

The nose is of dark chocolate and roses with elements of black fruit and tar; sweet and vinous at the same time. It is captivating and penetrating.

In the mouth the wine is extremely dense with ripe fruit flavors and considerable complexity. The substantial tannins are as fine as powder and are almost sweet. Concentrated, rich and very alive with a texture that is extravagant. And not a trace of heat.

The finish is palate-coating with the chocolate and fruit flavors resonating at length until, much later, the mouth goes completely dry.

A wine that is completely of its place and time. For drinking with food – a grilled London Broil did very nicely this evening.

It is a simple fact that wine is made to accompany food; to be lingered over and enjoyed for its “greater than the sum of its parts” combination when it is enjoyed along side a fine meal. Perhaps, this wine waited those many years to open itself so that I might be of a mind to understand its purpose and its sublime gifts.

Profound.

Best, Jim

[Craig Camp]

Now THAT is a tasting note. I feel like I just tasted it myself.

The 89 Gastaldi Rosso is almost legendary in Italy. You said you had more bottles...

[Bill Klapp]

Hey, are you guys talking about my neighbor Dino? He lives just down the hill from our place in Italy. Our first winter there, he had to pull us out of a snowdrift. The Rosso is one huge, rustic wine, and to my mind, nowhere near ready to drink. I have heard that he has some land in Barolo (or maybe just a source of grapes, I'm not certain), and will be releasing a Barolo in the future. Our house white is his Langhe Bianco Gastaldi (80% Sauvignon Blanc/20% Chardonnay). Around $20 and impossible to find, even in the neighborhood in Italy. (I can never find Dino at home inorder to try and buy direct.) Terrific stuff, and a wonderful food wine to boot. I do note, however, that I have found more than average bottle variation in his wines.

[Bill Klapp]

I haven't had this particular Moscato but I love them in general. I liked how Katie snuck in the word "frizzante" like a true wine geek. I have had parties where I serve half a bottle of Moscato d'Asti for an apertif, then used the rest of the bottle for a dessert wine.

Che cosa vuol' dire le parole "true wine geek"? Non ho capito! Veramente, non la signora Loeb! Capisco bene "frizzante" e mi piace molto i pensieri della signora Loeb! Bravissima, signora! Ed anche, non dimenticariamo i Moscati di Giorgio Rivetti (La Spinetta), Bricco Quaglia e Vigneto Biancospino, e SEMPRE il Moscato di Paolo Saracco!

[KatieLoeb]

Che cosa vuol' dire le parole "true wine geek"?  Non ho capito!  Veramente, non la signora Loeb!  Capisco bene "frizzante" e mi piace molto i pensieri della signora Loeb!  Bravissima, signora!  Ed anche, non dimenticariamo i Moscati di Giorgio Rivetti (La Spinetta), Bricco Quaglia e Vigneto Biancospino, e SEMPRE il Moscato di Paolo Saracco!

Say What?

I've either just had my honor defended or been terribly insulted. Mercifully, I'm not sure which...

[Florida Jim]

The Rosso is one huge, rustic wine, and to my mind, nowhere near ready to drink.

Bill,

There goes the neighborhood. And one man's unready is another's perfect. But then, perhaps bottle variation sped this one on its way.

Seriously though, I can see why you would say that (based on the tannins alone) but in the company of a good steak it showed very well indeed.

Best, Jim

[Craig Camp]

I have heard that he has some land in Barolo (or maybe just a source of grapes, I'm not certain), and will be releasing a Barolo in the future.

I believe the 2001 Barolo is sleeping in the barrel as we speak.

[Craig Camp]

I can see why you would say that (based on the tannins alone) but in the company of a good steak it showed very well indeed.

Best, Jim

The fat in a really good steak and the tannin of nebbiolo were made for each other.

[Bill Klapp]

Jim, in the interest of full and fair disclosure, I drank my last bottle two years ago, and thus, the comment! You're with me on the rustic, though, aren't you? Dino Gastaldi is an original, and that is saying a lot, considering that Neive also harbors the likes of Bruno Giacosa! Craig, I will walk down the hill and suck up bigtime in June. If there is any more '89 in his cellar, I'll beg for it! Just don't wait for any to show up on Winebid-not precious likely at this point in time. Jim, I find it most interesting that the tannins seemingly just went away like that. I never would have expected that in the wine's youth.

Edited May 8, 2003 by Bill Klapp (log)

[Bill Klapp]

Signora, I defend your honor most vigorously! Literally, "What do the words "true wine geek" mean? I don't understand. Truly, NOT signora Loeb! I understand well "frizzante" and I enjoyed very much Ms. Loeb's thoughts. Well-spoken, Ms. Loeb! And also, let us not forget the Moscatos of Giorgio Rivetti...and ALWAYS the Moscato of Paolo Saracco." But I lie. Being a true wine geek myself, it would be hard for me to deny knowing what the words mean. And it hurts so much when others speak them to me! Actually, I wanted to see if Craig Camp is paying attention. I would have expected him to post a translation (or at the very least, correct my poor Italian grammar). I think that a guiding principle of one's life should be to like anyone who likes Moscato, and shun those who just don't get it!

Edited May 8, 2003 by Bill Klapp (log)

[KatieLoeb]

Signora, I defend your honor most vigorously!  Literally, "What do the words "true wine geek" mean?  I don't understand.  Truly, NOT signora Loeb! I understand well "frizzante" and I enjoyed very much Ms. Loeb's thoughts.  Well-spoken, Ms. Loeb!  And also, let us not forget the Moscatos of Giorgio Rivetti...and ALWAYS the Moscato of Paolo Saracco."  But I lie.  Being a true wine geek myself, it would be hard for me to deny knowing what the words mean.  And it hurts so much when others speak them to me!  Actually, I wanted to see if Craig Camp is paying attention.  I would have expected him to post a translation (or at the very least, correct my poor Italian grammar).  I think that a guiding principle of one's life should be to like anyone who likes Moscato, and shun those who just don't get it!

Thanks Bill! I feel much better now. And I heartily agree with your criteria for choosing whom to like. Moscato as a shared passion in a friendship is a wonderful start!

Craig, if he said anything dirty, I'd prefer NOT to have my bubble burst. I'm a sucker for a guy that speaks Italian to me. It has the same effect on me that Morticia speaking French did on Gomez...

I raise my glass to you Signore! Salut e Cent Anni!

[Robin Meredith]

I was thinking about some of the reservations Craig has expressed about the 1997 vintage, so I pulled this out of the cellar last night to check it out for myself.

Brilliant medium/dark ruby color. Briary, jammy, almost sauvage aromas. Tasting blind, I would have identified this as a Santa Barbara County Syrah with a fairly high degree of certainty - it has the same aromatic profile (and even some of the same flavors) I tend to associate with Syrah from that region.

Youthful and well-balanced on the palate - tight, concentrated fruit buttressed by some bright acids and moderate but persistent tannin. Absolutely nothing "Nebbiolo" about it from a flavor standpoint, so this would seem to support some of the complaints about lack of typicity in this vintage.

Tasted with bucatini all'amatriciana (not something I would normally put in front of an important red, but I was in the mood, so what the heck). The somewhat elevated alcohol in the wine fought with the chiles in the sauce a bit, but the wine had enough acidity to stand up beautifully to the tomatoes. One of the better red wine matches I've had with this dish.

If the acids came from the vineyard (not from the lab) I'd say this is well-balanced enough to improve for 5 to 10 years in the bottle. If not, who knows?

[Craig Camp]

I am a big fan of the Cavallotto Bricco Bocchis. A classic style produced from an exceptional vineyard. If anybody can make a good 97 they can.

The rap against the 97 vintage is that it was just too ripe. Robin's syrah comment is very telling. There are still many good to excellent wines for short term aging. Short term aging in Barolo terms is less than 10 years. I see the 97's as wines at their best at 5 to 7 years old. The big question is how will they taste in 15 or 20 years.

As always vintage assessments are very general and individual producers with unique micro-climates often exceed expectations.