Weekend in Montreal – What Shouldn't I Miss?

[TheStarvingArtist]

I'm spending Sunday-through-Tuesday in Montreal, and need some recommendations! Hidden gem restaurants, the best bakeries/cheese shops/charcutiers, cool places to buy liquor I can't get at home (Michigan), etc. I'm on a budget, so the bargain-finds are most useful! Thanks!

[Broken English]

Au Pied De Cochon is amazing, if you have the appetite. The boudin noir and foie gras tart is insanely good.

I'd avoid Schwartz Deli though, the Corned Beef I had there a few weeks back was dismal.

[mkayahara]

I strongly recommend visiting the Marché Jean-Talon! Look for the "Les Cochons tout ronds" stall for charcuterie, and poke your head into Fromagerie Hamel for cheeses. Liquor in Quebec is all controlled by a provincial monopoly (the SAQ), so the selection isn't drastically different from one store to another. I like the store at 440 De Maisonneuve West for the most part. If you're on a budget, you won't be shopping at their "Signature" store on Ste-Catherine St., since it' mostly devoted to prestige products, and priced accordingly, but it can be interesting to browse nonetheless, especially if you're a cognac or single malt fan.

It's been too long since I spent enough time in Montreal to be able to recommend restaurants, unfortunately. On my last visit, I went to DNA, which was very solid. Not sure that I'd call it "budget", though, and if you're going to splurge on your first trip to Montreal, it should definitely be on Au Pied de Cochon.

[TheStarvingArtist]

Au Pied is definitely going to be a highlight of the tour, as is the Jean-Talon! Thanks, Matthew-- I'll check out your fromagerie, and I'll probably find myself wandering the signature store, too... hah.

[lstrelau]

Jean-Talon is a must, if you have time Marche Atwater is nice too. Near J.Talon we had a very nice meal at Kitchen Gallerie, 'market' cuisine, the chefs are also the waiters and sommeliers. Entertaining. They have another location, in old Montreal called Kitchen Gallerie Poisson but a Montrealer friend who went with us to the J. Talon area one went to the fish-centric place and was not as impressed.

Joe Beef or one of its relatives is probably worth going to as well. We didn't have time when there last fall but hope to get back sooner than later. Rather more expensive is Europea but we had a superb lunch there.

[dhardy123]

I was just in Montreal 3 weeks ago and in addition to APDC, Schwartz's and Marche Jean-Talon, I would recommend L'Express on Rue St Denis for classic bistro dinners. For a cheap chicken rotisserie place (you can eat outside at the nearby park), try Rotisserie Romados on Rue Rachel. And of course for breakfast, you MUST go to Beauty's at 93 Ave du Mont-Royal Ouest for a good, old fashioned breakfast. For a great Montreal bagel, go to St-Viateur Bagel Shop at 263 St-Viateur West. Lastly, Juliette et Chocolat is a great place to go for chocolate desserts and coffee.

[lstrelau]

Yeah, I forgot about l'Express - classic Montreal bistro. Their marrow bones were wonderful! Another bagel place that is good is Fairmount Bagels. Open 24 hours a day 7 days a week.

[Chris Hennes]

Ah! I spent part of this morning trying to remember the bistro I wanted to recommend: l'Express was it. So, I third that recommendation.

[Ashen]

+1 for jean talon market. My wife and I consider it a must for our next visit.

Les Chocolats de Chloe It isn't far from au pied de cochon.. excellent chocolates the last time we visited which was over 5 yrs ago though before it moved closer to Au pied. the counter staff here was the only place in Montreal where I experenced what I term a bit of Quebecois freezeout, but the chocolates were so good it didn't bother me at all. I still dream about Bluecheese chocolates I bought there.

I havn't been to Joe Beef but it is on my must visit list the next time we get to montreal. In the forward of their book, David Chang says it is his favourite restaurant in the world.

If you end up out at the botanical Gardens or olympic stadiums or biosphere , I would highly recommend a minor detour to M Sur Masson . Small bistro in what is essentially a micro village atmosphere on Rue Masson. Great food , take your time and enjoy . Wait staff didn't have a lot of english when we were there but were very welcoming and helpful . great cheese course . very reasonable for excellent quality.

If you are down in the old port and looking for a fast meal and a drink for lunch check out Les 3 Brasseurs. I would recommend the Flammekueche ( smoked meat one is killer btw) and the sampler tray of their micro brew (onsite) beers.

Wow this is making me want to go to Montreal now. lol

[TheStarvingArtist]

I"m so excited! This sounds great!

Here's a follow-up/elaboration: I'm driving there from the west side of Michigan... anything en route which would make a fun pit stop? Obviously Toronto isn't a "pit stop", but I'm sure there are more reasonable detours on that trip?

[TheStarvingArtist]

Also, has anyone visited Unibroue? I love their beers, and am planning on swinging by there, but don't know what to expect at all!

[SylviaLovegren]

I"m so excited! This sounds great!

Here's a follow-up/elaboration: I'm driving there from the west side of Michigan... anything en route which would make a fun pit stop? Obviously Toronto isn't a "pit stop", but I'm sure there are more reasonable detours on that trip?

Are you going via Kingston or Ottawa? Kingston is a pretty place and the old fort there is worth a stop. Also some really good Vietnamese and Laotian food in town, although it's been a while so I don't know particular spots.

[TheStarvingArtist]

I haven't quite decided... probably Kingston on the way home, but we might go through upstate New York en route.

[SylviaLovegren]

Upstate NY is very much fun. I can recommend Doug's Fish Fry in Skaneatales. And for a crazy old-fashioned NY Italian place, Delmonicos in Syracuse -- the waitresses dress like mobsters with black fishnet stockings and the servings are enormous -- they're known for steaks, which are good, but the local specialty "Chicken Rigis" (rigatoni with chicken in a cream sauce with artichokes and peppers) is excellent. Also, I always enjoy ordering "rigis".

[Darienne]

Do keep in mind that if you are driving the 401 East, there is next to nothing ON the highway all the way east. And what there is??...half of them will be closed "to serve you better". Driving on Canadian major highways is not a treat. Make sure you have food and drink with you unless you are keen on McDonald's and Wendy's. American Interstates are fascinating cultural experiences compared to those in Canada.

Also, should you in Montreal, be on Decarie and near the Orange Julep, give it a try and report back. The original Orange Julep was the first 'modern' drive through I recall about 65 years ago and I'll remember the drink forever.

Edited June 22, 2012 by Darienne (log)

[MelissaH]

Upstate NY is very much fun. I can recommend Doug's Fish Fry in Skaneatales. And for a crazy old-fashioned NY Italian place, Delmonicos in Syracuse -- the waitresses dress like mobsters with black fishnet stockings and the servings are enormous -- they're known for steaks, which are good, but the local specialty "Chicken Rigis" (rigatoni with chicken in a cream sauce with artichokes and peppers) is excellent. Also, I always enjoy ordering "rigis".

Call me a local, but if you're looking for a fish fry in upstate NY, you'd be better off going to Rudy's in Oswego than to any of the Doug's locations.

MelissaH

[Ashen]

If you do go up the 401 it is always fun to stop at the BIG APPLE in colborne ,ontario. It is an easy stop as you can see the giant red apple from the highway. Always fun to see how much higher the pie count has risen since your last visit. They keep a large running total sign inside the restuarant /store. The pies are decent , and it is a fun rest stop.

[rotuts]

Schwartz' Pastrami Id love to see a few pics. Has it gone downhill?

It had the finest Hot Smoked Meat on the planet. better than anything in NYC. Back Then that is.

Edited June 23, 2012 by rotuts (log)

[dhardy123]

Here are a few pics from 3 weeks ago:

[Ashen]

MMM love that pic of schwartz's .. Makes me want a mediumfat with a plate of half sours and a black cherry soda.

[rotuts]

Im dying here: same for me but with an ice cold Cel-Ray tonic! and sorry I put mayo on the fries, eh?

[Darienne]

Ketchup on fries? Mayo on fries? I think not. Vinegar. Not malt, not wine, not fancy schmancy...just plain white vinegar and salt (and pepper for me).

(fixed up 'schmancy')

Edited June 24, 2012 by Darienne (log)

[rotuts]

sorry. mayo mayo mayo. Yum! although vinegar would be the second choice.

[patrickamory]

Schwartz's Smoked Meats - a fifth (or is it sixth?) vote. One of the best restaurants in North America.

[dhardy123]

Darienne,

I put malt vinegar on fries when I'm eating fish. It reminds me of the beach....but that night I was in a ketchup mood