Split Pea Soup

[richw]

I love split pea soup. I just love it. I order it whenever I am presented with the opportunity to. I even order it when it's 100 degrees Fahrenheit here in South Florida.

Here's the problem:

I've tried making it several times at home and it just never has the smooth, viscous texture of the pea soup at any average diner (that probably uses a pre-mixed powder of dehydrated peas and flavoring). There is always a mealy texture when I make it, even if I soak the peas overnight. Here are the some of the things I have tried to replicate 'diner-style' split pea soup.

- add no salt to the stock/dried pea/mirepoix mixture

- cook in a pressure cooker

- simmer for 4+ hours

- Run any of the above through a food mill

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Suzanne F]

I'm with you on this one. Me too. And since Paul hates it (for the texture), I MUST order it when we're out.

Instead of a food mill, try using a burr mixer (wand blender) or purée in in the regular blender. Food mill leaves too much texture.

Do you add anything when you serve it? Croutons? Frankfurter slices? Mmmmmmmmmm.

[Dave the Cook]

OK, kids. Clue me in.

I eschew split pea (it's the color, not the texture), but I like black bean and navy bean soup, and they both seem to have a certain graininess that I assumed was part of it, like the bits of corn between your teeth when you eat it off the cob. No?

I thought split pea cooked relatively quickly, along the lines of lentils. Four hours seems like a long time.

And though I've never had it, Suzanne! Wienies? Seems like a big meaty hambone would be de rigeur.

[Nick]

I'll have to think about that. I've made a lot of pea soups. What do you mean by "mealy?" It is, traditionally, a bit mealy, but I can see that it could be too mealy. Above all, a good pea soup is hearty, at least in the north. And it's always best when it sits in the woodshed over night in the colder months. Down there it would be the fridge.

But, that wouldn't (I don't think) make it any smoother, lighter, to the palette.

Pounding this around in what little mind I have left, I think we need southern pea soup cooks to weigh in here. A northern soup would be too heavy for south FL, if that makes any sense.

[Suzanne F]

OK, kids. Clue me in.

I eschew split pea (it's the color, not the texture), but I like black bean and navy bean soup, and they both seem to have a certain graininess that I assumed was part of it, like the bits of corn between your teeth when you eat it off the cob. No?

I thought split pea cooked relatively quickly, along the lines of lentils. Four hours seems like a long time.

And though I've never had it, Suzanne! Wienies? Seems like a big meaty hambone would be de rigeur.

First: the texture you describe in bean soups is probably because the beans have skins. If you dislike it (not that you said you did, but if you did), you can put those soups through a food mill, and get rid of the skins, but still have that mealy texture. Which may or may not be what you want. (Blend after passing for smooooooooothness.)

Yeah: regular old dried skinless split peas (green or yellow) do cook pretty quickly. But more wouldn't hurt.

Finally, I grew up in a mostly-kosher household. My mother made her split pea with plain water or with flanken (beef) or chicken in it. Then she'd take out the meat to eat separately (with its coating of green ) and slice Hebrew National frankfurters into the soup. Try it, it's great. (This is the way it's served at Brooklyn Diner, too.) But you're right: and I do not adhere to kashruth. So I use ham hocks -- easier for me than a bone, since I never cook a whole ham.

[kitwilliams]

mmmm. split pea soup. it's just getting cool enough here in southern california to make it and I was thinking of running out to the Honey Baked Ham store to get some bones. They are usually pretty good about leaving a decent amount of meat on the bone.

I do not soak my peas overnight. And I don't puree the mixture. I like a little texture in my split pea soup but it isn't at all what I would call mealy and the peas really do break down on their own and don't need assistance from blender/processor/whatever. And if it sits for a day or two it gets even thicker and creamier (does yours really sit in the wood shed, nick? I'm jealous.). Also I just use water, not stock.

[JSD]

I make split pea soup about twice a month in the winter. I put the dried peas along with an onion, some garlic, a bay leaf and water and cook until the peas are soft. When I want to make this, I allow several hours, sometimes all afternoon, because I live at a medium high elevation, so everything boils at a lower temperature. Later, I add carrots, celery, and a potato, and kielbasa, and seasonings, including salt and pepper. My son has loved this soup since day one (because of the kielbasa). The peas always get soft, but I have to keep adding hot water so it doesn't dry out or get too thick. I have a simmer plate for my cooktop, and that's good once the peas disintegrate. I never use a pressure cooker for this soup, and I don't use any stock.

[Jaymes]

I love split pea soup as well.

After I spoon it into the individual soup plates, I always finish with a dollop of good olive oil, a sprinkle of crushed red pepper, and a dusting of grated P. Reggiano.

Yum.

[Nick]

(does yours really sit in the wood shed, nick?  I'm jealous.).  

Yep, it really does. To me pea soup is a cold weather dish and that's about the only time I make it. And, like you, I don't soak the peas overnight and don't puree it. Split peas need no soaking. I also use just water.

I started to give a recipe, but it wouldn't be any good for people living in a hot climate.

I also put other stuff in the woodshed to cool when winter approaches and is then here. Braises, stews, chowders, etc. I do that after the meal and it cools things off fairly rapidly without screwing up the fridge.

[Jaymes]

(does yours really sit in the wood shed, nick?  I'm jealous.).  

I started to give a recipe....

Nickn

Pleeeese give the recipe???

[Sandra Levine]

My son has loved this soup since day one.

My son has hated pea soup since day one. His father, though, loves it. Homemade is best, of course, but he used to be be very fond of canned yellow pea soup that we would bring back from trips to Canada. When my son was about 7, his favorite book had a cozy scene in which the two characters ate pea soup. He begged me to bring this literary creation to life, using my husband's zealously hoarded yellow pea soup. I explained that yellow or not, it was still more or less the same soup he had always loathed. He insisted, over a period of hours, that this time it was different. He really, really wanted that pea soup and he knew that he would like it so much that he would eat the whole bowl. Against my better judgment, I gave in. He was brimming with anticipation as the soup heated up on the stove. When I put the bowl in front of him, the pea-scented steam wafted gently to his nose. The smile faded. His little nose wrinkled. Bravely, he dipped in his spoon, hesitated just a bit before putting it in his mouth...and swallowed. He even managed a second and third spoonful, but the upshot was a lesson learned...art is sometimes better than life.

[Suzanne F]

Habitant brand pea soup!!!!!

[Sandra Levine]

That's it!

[Jinmyo]

Habitant brand pea soup!!!!!

Gah. Suzanne?

Tinned yellow split pea soup?

The smell on opening the tin.

Of course, Habitant in Canada is probably as ubiqitous as Campbell's tinned beef soup (with its horrid body odour smell) in the U.S. and so my shock night be culture-based.

[Nick]

Nickn  

Pleeeese give the recipe???

After reading the latest posts, I'm not sure anyone's interested. And, cooking northern style wouldn't be what you'd want, or be good for you, down there where the heat isn't fit to bear. Somebody from the south has got to pipe up here.

[Nick]

Sandra, I was the same as your son when I was young.

Edit: And this was not canned soup, it was soup my mother, a good cook, had made.

Edited December 12, 2002 by Nickn (log)

[Jinmyo]

What I do, once or twice a year when I make this:

Rinse the split peas about 5 times. Saute mire poix (with garlic), deglaze with white wine, add chicken stock, add split peas. In a seperate pot simmer ham hocks. Pull hocks, let cool, strain and skim stck, put in freezer. Skin and pull hocks. Chop. Add ham stock. Puree pea soup. Strain. Add ham. Serve with crostini and frisee salad with lardons and a few other things.

[Suzanne F]

Jin, I haven't had it in about 45 years. But when I was little, it seemed so exotic, so different, so ... Canadian.

[Sandra Levine]

The question is, Jinmyo, would my son eat it now?

[Jinmyo]

Sandra, I sincerely hope not.

The smell.

[Sandra Levine]

Jin, I meant yours.

[Nick]

Jin, I don't think you've got an ounce of country in you. It's bad enough adding wine, but when you cook the hocks separately, you just lost me.

[Jaymes]

Nickn    

Pleeeese give the recipe???

After reading the latest posts, I'm not sure anyone's interested. And, cooking northern style wouldn't be what you'd want, or be good for you, down there where the heat isn't fit to bear. Somebody from the south has got to pipe up here.

First of all, I ain't in Key West. And even if I were, ever hear of air conditioning?

It's definitely soup weather here - rainy, mid-forty's.

And I'd love to be able to decide for myself whether or not the soup is "too hearty." I don't want some wimpy, sissy-ass "pea broth" or something.

And on top of all that, I've spent a great deal of my life in definite "soup climates" that I am sure were as cold as anything you've ever been in in your entire life.

So, Big Boy, lay it on me. Figuratively, of course.

I can take it.

Edited December 12, 2002 by Jaymes (log)

[Dave the Cook]

Nick:

When you wanted to eat our shrimp, we not only let you, we encouraged you. We told you where to get it. We gave you tips--secret information--things known only to us and our Southern brethren, because we considered you one of us--and it was our pleasure. We said, in effect, "bon appetit--enjoy!" We did not say, "This is not for you. People from the North should not have this. They are too cold to be able to truly appreciate it." No, no, no--we have a bounty, and we are glad to share with our dear friends from the frozen North. Do you think we don't get cold? When the temperature dips, though even only into the high 20s, with not a chance in hell that it will snow in the next two years, do you think we feel not the sharp bite of winter's teeth? When chilled, do we not freeze?

Now, please do what your conscience must surely tell you is fair.

[Jinmyo]

Jin, I don't think you've got an ounce of country in you. It's bad enough adding wine, but when you cook the hocks separately, you just lost me.

Sorry, Nick. Which country?

Sandra, even so. It's split pea soup.

In England there's the mushy pea thing. I've done mushy peas wrapped around ham, cooked in cheesecloth, then cooked as croquettes with a mint sauce.

But one could still do so many other things.

Edited December 12, 2002 by Jinmyo (log)