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The veggie burger comes of age


Fat Guy

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The New York Times has a piece on veggie burgers, chronicling the innovative and delicious approaches several American chefs are taking to this traditionally bad item.

Across the country, chefs and restaurateurs have been taking on the erstwhile health-food punch line with a kind of experimental brio, using it as a noble excuse to fool around with flavor and texture and hue. As a result, veggie burgers haven’t merely become good. They have exploded into countless variations of good, and in doing so they’ve begun to look like a bellwether for the American appetite.

I've noticed that vegetarian food in general has been getting more sophisticated, so this bit of news about veggie burgers doesn't surprise me. Does it square with all of your observations?

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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I haven't tasted a vegetarian burger since the bad old days when I thought they were truly dreadful.

DH and I were vegetarians for about 25 years (as compared to 'less-meatarians' (Mark Bittman) for the last 15 or so) and during that time I ate out quite a lot on boards and suchlike. I was invariably served a salad or Fettucine Alfredo. Time after time after time in a variety of locations and restaurants and banquets. Yecch. The complete lack of imagination back then was abysmal. Thank heavens that has changed.

Maybe I'll try a burger again. Maybe not. :raz:

Darienne

 

learn, learn, learn...

 

We live in hope. 

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I think the biggest problem the veggie burger had back then was the people creating them were trying to simulate the texture of a real meat hamburger. Texturally speaking they were making French crottes, aka animal droppings. Currently, as a whole, chef's are embracing the wonderful flavor & textural diversity that the vegetable kingdom provides us, to our benefit.

However, interesting as the vegetarian creations may be, when I want a hamburger, nothing can be substituted for the perfect mix of freshly ground short-rib, chuck, & sirloin quickly seared to crusty, juicy goodness served on a freshly toasted soft bun with all the fixins.

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I have noticed this myself over the past few years - the difference is truly astounding. More burgers that are made out of grains, legumes, and vegetables, yet still hold their shape well and have a lot of flavor - nothing in common with either the bland 1970s style tasteless patties or generic frozen burgers made entirely of soy protein and flavorings. I've seen all sorts of interesting ingredients used, from firm dupuy lentils to beets.

Hopefully the rumors are true that "vegetables are the new bacon".

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One thing I find a little strange is that most veggie burgers rely on some type of grain for structure and are then eaten between two pieces of grain. I can see enjoying some of these veggie patty concoctions with a dip or sauce more than as a sandwich. Legume-veggie combo is a little different. For me the ultimate veggie burger is a falafel in pita, with tahini dressing and chopped cukes, tomato etc. Hold the ketchup.

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Hopefully the rumors are true that "vegetables are the new bacon".

Make no mistake. Nothing will ever be the new bacon. Pork is pork & bacon is bacon.

I firmly believe at some point in the distant past some brilliant individual started a vicious smear campaign about pork which resulted in multiple religious communities outlawing pork consumption and ensuring that more piggies would be available for that posthumous MENSA candidate's enjoyment.

Edited by Jeffery C (log)
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One thing I find a little strange is that most veggie burgers rely on some type of grain for structure and are then eaten between two pieces of grain. I

My wife just calls this a bread sandwich.

Legume-veggie combo is a little different. For me the ultimate veggie burger is a falafel in pita, with tahini dressing and chopped cukes, tomato etc. Hold the ketchup.

I've made Didi Emmons' falafel burgers--a falafel mix patty pan fried, very tasty.

"I think it's a matter of principle that one should always try to avoid eating one's friends."--Doctor Dolittle

blog: The Institute for Impure Science

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For me the ultimate veggie burger is a falafel in pita, with tahini dressing and chopped cukes, tomato etc. Hold the ketchup.

We get the Falafel Burger every year at Roxy's off the midway in the San Diego Fair (aka Del Mar Fair). It was a little disconcerting at first to be eating a green burger :blink: ...but we got over it. :laugh:

 

“Peter: Oh my god, Brian, there's a message in my Alphabits. It says, 'Oooooo.'

Brian: Peter, those are Cheerios.”

– From Fox TV’s “Family Guy”

 

Tim Oliver

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