Pairing Chocolate With Savory Flavors

[TAPrice]

I recently tasted a dark chocolate flavored with thyme. I thought the combination was fabulous. Now, maybe this match is obvious and old hat to the big city folks, but I found it to be something of a revelation.

What other savory flavors work well with chocolate? Earl Grey tea and cayenne are pretty common by this point.

Is there a history behind such pairing, or is this a recent innovation?

[alanamoana]

I would say that the trend in pairing chocolate with 'savory' flavors has been going on for about ten years or so (of course, that's ignoring things like mole). If we're talking about higher end chocolatiers making ganaches and other fillings, then just take a look at some of the web sites like:

Richart

or

Christopher Elbow

or

Vosges Haute Chocolate.

I think that some people do it for effect without really understanding how the flavors work together and you can end up with some really awful pairings. And then there are the standouts who do it well and with subtlety and can really wow you with combinations you would have never thought of.

I don't think it is something that is too avant-garde though. More like an evolution in using what is available and turning to things not previously considered classic.

edited to add: the examples I have chosen aren't necessarily because I like their chocolates, but to show you what flavor combinations some popular chocolatiers are making.

Edited May 11, 2007 by alanamoana (log)

[Truffle Guy]

I think that some people do it for effect without really understanding how the flavors work together and you can end up with some really awful pairings. And then there are the standouts who do it well and with subtlety and can really wow you with combinations you would have never thought of.

I don't think it is something that is too avant-garde though. More like an evolution in using what is available and turning to things not previously considered classic.

edited to add: the examples I have chosen aren't necessarily because I like their chocolates, but to show you what flavor combinations some popular chocolatiers are making.

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Edited May 11, 2007 by Truffle Guy (log)

[Sebastian]

While probably pretty obvious, I just made a port wine and lamplong black peppercorn ganache last night, and an ancho chile/key lime one as well

[Peter Green]

In Shanghai, Paul Pairet did an excellent foie gras Opera "cake" at Jade On 36.

the passion-choco foie gras opera, a recreation of the classic opera cake, pairing chocolate and foie gras together, with passion fruit and port wine jelly, and a touch of peanut. There seemed to be a bit of truffle there, too, on top of the chocolate with the salt crystals.

I had no complaints whatsoever.

[mrose]

While probably pretty obvious, I just made a port wine and lamplong black peppercorn ganache last night, and an ancho chile/key lime one as well

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Did you make the ancho/key lime with white chocolate?

[Sebastian]

One with white, one with a very dark. I preferred the dark when rolled in a bed of ground chocolate that was mixed with a touch of cinnamon. but in the name of full disclosure, i'm not a huge white chocolate fan...

[sote23]

Savory can be tricky, because if it's done incorrectly, it will over power the chocolate. you need to make it strong enough to taste, but not overpower. I would tend to agree to go more on the subtle side using them. Try rosemary, basil etc

Luis

[Kerry Beal]

Bacon and chocolate

[ejw50]

Bacon and chocolate

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Everything is better with Bacon!

"Making Artisan Chocolates" by Andrew Shotts has a nice section on this on spices that pair with Dark chocolate (peppers, coriander, curry, wasabi), then some with white chocolate (cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, ginger, more) and more. Nice book if you want to see how one of the pros does it.