This weeks menu

[Fat Guy]

Anna potatoes a/k/a pommes Anna: Basically a potato pie. Thin slices of potato layered in a pie plate with butter, salt, and pepper, covered and weighted during cooking, turned out, and usually cut and served in wedges. The most often heard explanation is that the dish was created for Anna Deslions by Adolphe Duglere, though there are various other theories.

[macrosan]

Oh, yummmm. I'll have those too, and I've changed my mind, I'll stick with the rib steak also. In the meantime, I'm going to make myself a buck rarebit for lunch while I'm waiting.

[tommy]

I'm just amazed at the lowness of those prices. Are you able to do that because you get some sort of subsidy, or are you just a genius?

When you do shrimp cocktail, what procedure do you utilize? I sort of like the idea of shrimp cocktail but I find that it's typically served too cold, the shrimp are overcooked and rubbery, and that the sauce is sickly sweet.

Do you make the risotto to order from scratch or is the rice par-cooked? Have you tasted one versus the other and do you have an opinion of the par-cooking method's effectiveness? Do you finish the risotto with butter, cream, olive oil, cheese, or all four?

Are those Ruby Red shrimp the ones from the Gulf of Mexico?

Pancetta lardons?

And who is Barramundi?

fat guy, please limit your questions to only 2 per menu.

regards,

tommy

[Malawry]

Your menus look lovely, Nick.

Fat Guy, fwiw, club menu prices are almost always noticeably lower than prices at resaurants. Dining is a "loss leader" at most clubs; membership dues usually subsidize dining, and members expect a good deal on the food (especially when they are required to meet a minimum, as I think Nick's club enforces).

Nick, I see certain items repeated on your menus, like the shrimp cocktail. Is this a "classic" dish at your club, that you're not allowed to take off the menu? Are you ever able to do something fun with the dish, like serving it with a variety of sauces? I noted the crab cocktail which sounds a little more fun. Also, I've not seen carpaccio as an entree very often. Sounds like a lovely summery dish.

[CathyL]

Another terrific menu. You're gonna spoil us, Nick.

I'm also interested in more details about the foie gras app. Is there much heat in the sauce? Please tell us about the three sauces for the crab cocktail too.

Fat Guy, Alton Brown did a shrimp cocktail in which the shrimp were brined and broiled. I tried it and liked the texture very much - a little bite but not rubbery. Recipe here.

[Basildog]

SAUTE GUINEA FOWL WITH ORANGE AND PINE NUT SALAD

SEARED SCALLOPS WITH RUNNER BEAN, ASPARAGUS AND SUN BLUSH TOMATOES

WALNUT ICE CREAM IN A BRANDY SNAP BASKET

a couple of new(ish) dishes from tonights menu

[Malawry]

Brandy snap basket? Yummmmmmmmmm.

[Rosie]

I've never met a fois gras I didn't like.

[Saffy]

Interesting that you have New Zealand Barramundi there... I LOVE Barramundi it is one of my fav fish, but can't actually buy it here. Where is here you ask? New Zealand.

The only time I have ever been able to eat it /buy it was in Australia and Papua New Guinea.

[Brad S]

ngatti,

A couple questions.

What are the seasonal wild shrooms you are using in your risotto?and is it made with veggie stock?

Your Foie Gras App is intersting,chilis,coconuts,panko,shrimp! tell us how these textures and flavores play off one anothe,and what would you recommend drinking with it (wine I mean).

How do you come up with your combos? French/English and Asian all together..

Thanks

[ngatti]

Tell me more about that foie and shrimp app--it sounds like an incredible combo if you've pulled it off.  What goes into the sauce?

I'm also interested in more details about the foie gras app. Is there much heat in the sauce? Please tell us about the three sauces for the crab cocktail too.

Your Foie Gras App is intersting,chilis,coconuts,panko,shrimp! tell us how these textures and flavores play off one anothe,and what would you recommend drinking with it (wine I mean).

Isn’t Foie gras a wonderful thing! This dish evolved. First let me preface by saying that the sourcing for the menus generally start on Tuesday (sometimes on the previous Sunday). I buy a 'new‘ item; 5 pounds of Argentinean pink shrimp, about 21-25 size (number of pieces per pound). I put them in a pasta dish on Wedsnday, but they don’t sell. So they’re laying about and I give them to my Sous Chef “maybe we can come up with a bar hors douevre on Friday”. Friday rolls around and I’m at my work table writing the menu. It’s only going to be in place for one night as Saturday is a special event. I’ve ordered a raft of different ingredients including a lobe of Foie Gras. The Foie usually comes off the cold side, so I talk to ‘Ken’ one of my Sous Chefs. I tell him that I think we should pan sear a thick piece this week. He agrees, but we’re stymied for a garnish. We start running down the different fruits that are in or coming in that day. We’ve pretty much exhausted the possibilities and we don’t feel like repeating ourselves. Ken asks “what about those pinks that didn’t sell wedsnday? I’ve got that bag of Panko that we bought last week and didn’t use. Why don’t I crust them and serve a couple with the Foie?” I arch my eyebrows but as I really trust this guy’s palette, I start thinking about it. Why not? I ask myself. It seems better and better, the more I think about it. These shrimp are very tender, in fact if you overcook them even a little they turn to mashed potatoes. We’re still looking for a sweet taste to complement. I remember that I have a coconut/pineapple sauce that I tarted up with red chili vinaigrette with sliced scallions and chopped cilantro. We’re thinking we need one more texture. Ken says rice paper. I say done, only fry it. It’ll give a different cripness to the dish than the panko. I think we need some purple shiso watercress and kumquats somewhere, but we didn’t have. Just as well. This dish was fast approaching 'over the top' and it wasn't gonna take much more to push it there. As for the wine, I leave that to people who are more competent than I, such as yourself.

That’s the evolution of the dish. It was served for one night only and we only sold one. Go figure. We liked it.

Thanks for the questions

Nick

[Fat Guy]

Nick, thanks for an incredibly forthright look into the realpolitik of a restaurant kitchen. That was one of the most informative posts in the history of eGullet.

[Jaymes]

Nick, I see certain items repeated on your menus, like the shrimp cocktail. Is this a "classic" dish at your club, that you're not allowed to take off the menu? Are you ever able to do something fun with the dish, like serving it with a variety of sauces.

Like maybe shrimp cocktail Mexican style... Far and away my personal favorite.

[ngatti]

FG said:

I'm just amazed at the lowness of those prices. Are you able to do that because you get some sort of subsidy, or are you just a genius?

Malawary said:

Fat Guy, fwiw, club menu prices are almost always noticeably lower than prices at resaurants. Dining is a "loss leader" at most clubs; membership dues usually subsidize dining, and members expect a good deal on the food (especially when they are required to meet a minimum, as I think Nick's club enforces).

Malawary’s right, FG. We do have a dining room food minimum which during the summer must be met monthly. So we try to give ‘em a good experience. They are the owners after all. Each and every one of the 300+ members, their families and their guests. I am also permitted to run a fairly high food cost. (currently around 52%). My bottom line is member satisfaction, not a dollar amount. We are not here to make a profit. And with an IQ of about 140, your second supposition may be true also.

FG wrote:

When you do shrimp cocktail, what procedure do you utilize? I sort of like the idea of shrimp cocktail but I find that it's typically served too cold, the shrimp are overcooked and rubbery, and that the sauce is sickly sweet.

FG: we use u-10 white shrimp (under 10 pieces of shrimp per pound). They are From Mexico and points south along the pacific coast. They arrive in 50 pound cases block frozen in 5 pound boxes. We slack and cook them in the shell in court bouillon for approx. 4-5 minutes. Then quickly shock until chilled. Do not let sit in water as the flavor of the court bouillon will leach out. Then we peel them. I’ve never had our cocktail sauce called sweet. But it is rather prosaic. Catsup, chili sauce, horseradish, lemon etc. etc…

Malawary also said:

Nick, I see certain items repeated on your menus, like the shrimp cocktail. Is this a "classic" dish at your club, that you're not allowed to take off the menu? Are you ever able to do something fun with the dish, like serving it with a variety of sauces? I noted the crab cocktail which sounds a little more fun. Also, I've not seen carpaccio as an entree very often. Sounds like a lovely summery dish.

CathyL wrote:

Please tell us about the three sauces for the crab cocktail too.

The sauces for the crab cocktail were cocktail sauce, saffron aioli, and wasabi mayonnaise. A dollop of each around the lump crab.

Malawary: Yes. The shrimp cocktail stays. I’m waiting on some new plates so that I can change the presentation. Other things that stay week to week are steak, veal chop, lamb chops and roast chicken. From the fish side: salmon. Caesar salad and the ubiquitous chopped and mixed green salads stay also. We also do a tri-color and a mesclun lettuce salad that we play with re the presentation.

The Tuna is an interesting dish. We served the loin sliced over a mixed heirloom salad. The tomatoes were delivered by my market guy from the Union Square market at 2:00 PM. So the dish was set at that time. The tuna was set up in a non-acidic marinade of lemon basil, lemon thyme, greek oregano, garlic, shallot and olive oil. We sliced it into about ¼ “ thick slices that we draped over the tomatoes. Accompany with small fingerlings, which were split, pan-grilled and then slow roasted. When cool we tossed the potatoes in aioli sauce. The dish was garnished with bronze fennel tops and drizzled with laudemio olive oil. I thought the dish very summery also. I served it as a main because I thought a cold dish such as this would work, in light of the recent hellish weather we’ve been having.

Thanks for the questions

Nick

[tommy]

Nick, thanks for an incredibly forthright look into the realpolitik of a restaurant kitchen. That was one of the most informative posts in the history of eGullet.

steven,

please limit yourself to one ass-licking per menu.

regards,

tommy

[ngatti]

Capedchef asked:

What are the seasonal wild shrooms you are using in your risotto?and is it made with veggie stock?

How do you come up with your combos? French/English and Asian all together..

Thanks

Could only get two kinds this week. Black trumpets de mort and some pretty nice looking chanterelles. I use chicken stock to make the risotto. I considered using some dried cepes or dried morels, but opted not too. The flavors are a bit more intense but I can always tell when a dried shroom is used. I didn’t think they would balance with the fresh ones.

FG wrote:

Do you make the risotto to order from scratch or is the rice par-cooked? Have you tasted one versus the other and do you have an opinion of the par-cooking method's effectiveness? Do you finish the risotto with butter, cream, olive oil, cheese, or all four?

No we use the par method. The same one you wrote about on Fat-Guy.com. I have tasted both and fresh made is superior. However as this was an appetizer, I couldn’t justify a 20/25 minute wait for the dish. Par works just fine particularly in this case.

Depending on the type of risotto or what it will be used for, will determine what ingredients will go into it. This risotto was finished with all but the cream. I rarely use heavy cream in risotto. If the risotto is to be used for seafood, I will use a good fumet with the chicken stock and omit the parmesan. I generally use a white mirepoix when making this dish.

FG also wrote:

Are those Ruby Red shrimp the ones from the Gulf of Mexico?

Pancetta lardons?

And who is Barramundi?

Saffy wrote:

Interesting that you have New Zealand Barramundi there... I LOVE Barramundi it is one of my fav fish, but can't actually buy it here. Where is here you ask? New Zealand.

The only time I have ever been able to eat it /buy it was in Australia and Papua New Guinea.

Baramundi: Interesting fish. Cooks and I thought it was like mildly flavored bluefish. The skin was quite tough so I skinned the fish before cooking. We served it with essentially a tomato beurre blanc with roasted tomato stirred in. Sauced the fish sparingly as the richness of the fish coupled with the beurre blanc may not work. In the amounts I used it did work.

Saffy: the fish was touted by my Maine fish guy. He told me that it was farm raised from NZ. It was a tasty fish which sold reasonably well.

I’ll ask about the Ruby reds. He does sell a 16-20 Fresh Gulf Shrimp (head off).

The reds are called: “Deepwater Ruby Red Prawns”

Pancetta Lardons are simply battonet (well a reasonable approximation of battonet)

Cut from an unrolled piece of Pancetta, which are then sautéed until crisp.

Macrosan—My Anna potatoes are more of a ‘take’ on the dish. I single shingle crosswise cut russet potatoes on a buttered sheetpan. Cook in a hot oven until crisp but ever so slightly pliable. Lift and mound them together with a spatula.

For the onions use a Maui sweet or a Vidalia. Cut crosswise into slices. Then we season the top and roast them. When charred around the edges it means they’re done. Yes, you can have them without the steak.

I truly enjoyed answering your questions. Thank you for indulging me.

Nick

[ngatti]

SAUTE GUINEA FOWL WITH ORANGE AND PINE NUT  SALAD

SEARED SCALLOPS WITH RUNNER BEAN, ASPARAGUS AND SUN BLUSH  TOMATOES

WALNUT ICE CREAM IN A BRANDY SNAP BASKET

a couple of new(ish) dishes from tonights menu

The dish (scallops) sounds like...I want to eat it right now!

What are sun blush tomatoes?

Nick

[Fat Guy]

please limit yourself to one ass-licking per menu.

Please go fuck yourself as many times as you like.

[MartinB]

Barramundi is an Australian freshwater fish, not New Zealand. Our freshwater fish is generally poor quality and 'muddy' in flavour, with the exception of our trout, which, incidentally, we are not allowed to sell in restaurants.

[Basildog]

Sun Blush are roasted and marinated in oil, garlic and oregano.We buy them already done.So shoot me

[Brad S]

Nick,

Thanks for sharing your details of menu develpment with us.

[Andy Lynes]

please limit yourself to one ass-licking per menu.

Please go fuck yourself as many times as you like.

Tommy, you're not going to let him talk to you like that are you!

(In no way attempting to stir up a fight on the boards because it's a Sunday and I'm bored).

[tommy]

Please go fuck yourself as many times as you like.

LOL!

[Jinmyo]

Macrosan—My Anna potatoes are more of a ‘take’ on the dish.  I single shingle crosswise cut russet potatoes on a buttered sheetpan.  Cook in a hot oven until crisp but ever so slightly pliable.  Lift and mound them together with a spatula.

Ha ha. A nice cross between Pommes Anna and Pommes Maxim.

[spqr]

Nick - thanks for your description of how you manage your menus and how you come up with new dishes. I may be only a home cook, but it's still very informative and useful for me.

To what extent, in your menu development, do you feel constrained to cater to your captive audience's taste. Are there culinary places you dare not go for fear of being rejected by your patrons? Or do you feel free to be as experimental as you like?