Good Midrange Paris restaurants: a dying breed?

[Laidback]

Thanks for the pics, Jim. Couldn't view a few of them, though, for some strange reason.

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Sorry, fresh_a.

I have the technological expertise of a clam. Some kind souls on the gullet have been trying to help me with photo posting, but as of yet my wine soaked brain has repelled all attempts, thus you are stuck with battling Shutterfly to see my photos.

[Laidback]

I have heard little rumblings of discontent with Chez Michel, Thierry Breton's little Breton Bistro in the 10th, right behind the church of St. Vincent dePaul, so my wife and I tried it again this trip after an absence of at least 2 years.

There is still the great value €30 menu, which I had, but my wife chose from the supplemental selections listed on the blackboard, which increased the cost by €20. My feeling is that the extra expense allows the chef to spread his wings and show what he can do without the constraints imposed by the menu. I started with the very generous soupe de poisson, the full crockery pitcher was left on the table

My main was roast veal with thinly sliced cauliflower sautéed with mushrooms

followed by a warm Breton sugar cookie, kouign amman.

My wife's €5 supplemental entrée was another take on the crab/avocado presentations, and a good one; crumbled crab meat served over avocado purée.

Her main with a €10 supplement was coquille St. Jacques, beurre noisette with a purée of celery.

Her dessert, a millefeuille of fraises de bois, carried a €5 supplement..

The wine list is one of the better ones for a mid range bistro. We splurged €40 on a good bottle of Fixin, and €4.50 for a bottle of Chateldon.

All told I think that this little spot is hard to beat for €30, and still good at the higher prices brought on by the supplemental blackboard menu, just not as great a bargain.

Edited April 22, 2006 by Laidback (log)

[Felice]

I have heard little rumblings of discontent with Chez Michel, Thierry Breton's little Breton Bistro in the 10th, right behind the church of St. Vincent dePaul, so my wife and I tried it again this trip after an absence of at least 2 years.

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I'm so happy to hear that you enjoyed your meal at Chez Michel. I have been many times and it was always one of my favorites. Your post certainly makes me want to go back soon.

And I'm glad to see you were able to post your photos

[John Talbott]

I have heard little rumblings of discontent with Chez Michel, Thierry Breton's little Breton Bistro in the 10th, right behind the church of St. Vincent dePaul, so my wife and I tried it again this trip after an absence of at least 2 years.

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I'm so happy to hear that you enjoyed your meal at Chez Michel. I have been many times and it was always one of my favorites. Your post certainly makes me want to go back soon.

And I'm glad to see you were able to post your photos

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Agree; pix great but food better.

[John Whiting]

(phrederic @ Mar 10 2006, 02:31 AM)

Local bistros have taken increasingly to buying their ingredients en masse from Metro or another industrial wholesaler...

A quarter century ago John and Karen Hess, in The Taste of America, documented this trend in expensive "gourmet" restaurants. A dozen years ago, over dinner at a Franch B&B, I talked with a man who claimed that his brother ran a food firm based in southwest France that sold high-end prepared cook-chill and frozen food to Michelin starred restaurants. He had the smell of truth about him.

Has anyone thought of setting up a website listing restaurants where Metro, Brake Freres and other such vans have been seen making deliveries? I'm sure that lists of their customers are "trade secrets", as closely guarded as the military variety and subject to equally punitive court action if broken. Photos of deliveries being made would be nice.

Post edited by John Whiting and John Talbott at poster's request d/t problems in posting.

Edited April 23, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[gastrominator]

For good 'midrange' (although the true definition of a midrange restaurant in Paris would be around €100 per person, I guess, like most of the one-stars) reasonably priced restaurant I would recommend most of the 'Bib Gourmand' in the Michelin guide(around €50 per person with wine).

Amongst my faves are:

Beurre Noisette(ex Ledoyen - even Christian Le Squer was surprised that I knew this one)

68 Rue Vasco de Gama(15ème)

Oscar (Simple bistro classics like Souris d'agneau, Canard roti au miel and ris-de-veau sautés au champignons)

6 Rue de Chaillot(16ème)

Biche au bois(excellent game)

45 Avenue Ledru-Rolin(12ème)

Watch out for some of the tourist infested ones that are often written about, for example: Epi Dupin, La Régalade(even since Camdeborde has gone) and Aux Lyonnais..

Good luck hunting!

[Laidback]

"For good 'midrange' (although the true definition of a midrange restaurant in Paris would be around €100 per person, I guess, like most of the one-stars) reasonably priced restaurant I would recommend most of the 'Bib Gourmand' in the Michelin guide(around €50 per person with wine)." 

I guess everyone has their own definition of mid-range restaurants; I tend to define restaurants with a 3 course menu of around €30-40, excluding beverages, since the choice of aperitifs, wine and digestifs is such an individual thing and can render useless any price estimate. I agree with the Bib Gourmand selections; they come close to my criteria minus the wine.

[John Talbott]

"For good 'midrange' (although the true definition of a midrange restaurant in Paris would be around €100 per person, I guess, like most of the one-stars) reasonably priced restaurant I would recommend most of the 'Bib Gourmand' in the Michelin guide(around €50 per person with wine)." 

I guess everyone has their own definition of mid-range restaurants; I tend to define restaurants with a 3 course menu of around €30-40, excluding beverages, since the choice of aperitifs, wine and digestifs is such an individual thing and can render useless any price estimate. I agree with the Bib Gourmand selections; they come close to my criteria minus the wine.

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Indeed, I daresay, I think it varies from person to person enormously - if you're from NY or LA, work running a hedge fund (maybe that's a cheap shot, but....), and only eat out twice a week, 100€ pp is cheap - whereas if you're on a fixed penurious income eating out every day in Paris - that's called expensive. A French friend in the food biz here says that over 50€ when quoted in reviews is too much. And last night a friend, American but living and working here for 40 years found the place we went to for 64€ for the works too pricey. It was Einstein after all (world's smartest guy before Kissinger) who made relativity popular. I must say, as well, that I really count on the Bibs in the countryside; they tend to be run by young energetic couples, have rooms and want to make it.

Edited by John Talbott multiple times for numerous errors.

Edited April 24, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[John Whiting]

... the true definition of a midrange restaurant in Paris would be around €100 per person, I guess, like most of the one-stars...Watch out for some of the tourist infested ones ...

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At 100€ per person, the infestation rate is liable to be pretty high.

[jluyten]

Has anyone tried Goupil, way up north? We were at le Severo for a wonderful dinner last night and the people next to us recommended it.... Thanks, Jim

[John Talbott]

Has anyone tried Goupil, way up north?  We were at le Severo for a wonderful dinner last night and the people next to us recommended it....   Thanks, Jim

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Yup. Exactly a year ago; here's what I wrote:

Goupil Le Bistro, 4, rue Claude-Debussy in the 17th, 01.45.74.83.25, was another unexpected delight. Why? It’s in another weird location, e.g., near the Caserne de Pompiers, up from the Palais de Congres and the Porte Maillot, almost no one has written it up, its chef’d by a 23 year old - but it was packed and with suits. We had the tuna tartare (nice and thick and well-seasoned, e.g. just the right amount of spiciness) and boudin wrapped in not as crisp as they should have been, packets; then pintade that was done to perfection and rougets that were fresh and tasty when eaten with the tiny green asparagus whose bases were wrapped with microtomed bacon; the St Marcellin was also just right and the pear sorbet with eau de vie topped it off. Wine (Cote d’Auxerre) excellent; bread and coffee banal. Bill somehow crept up to over 100 E for 2.

[gastrominator]

... the true definition of a midrange restaurant in Paris would be around €100 per person, I guess, like most of the one-stars...Watch out for some of the tourist infested ones ...

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At 100€ per person, the infestation rate is liable to be pretty high.

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Thank you, Mr Whiting, for re-writing my post in a 'Daily Mirror' style! Are you saying that the french can't afford to go to €100 per person restaurants? Not that I've seen many flourescent-backpack porting, short-attired dutch families in any of the 'midrange' restaurants that I have been to recently. Unless, of course, we beg to differ upon the definition of a 'true tourist' for gastronomes some of which are cited in the 'Paris restos touristy?' thread...

[pierre45]

There has been some discussion about what constitutes mid range restaurants in Paris.Here is my take .Cost is per person with no wine or drinks for a 3 course dinner

Reasonable ; E 25-35

Mid range . E 45-65

Expensive ; E 85 -110

Very expensive; E 130 +

[John Whiting]

Are you saying that the french can't afford to go to €100 per person restaurants?

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Only that, in most restaurants, the higher the price, the more international the clientelle. I've never heard anyone argue seriously with that. I'm told that Tailevent's reservation policy is biased in favor of natives, but I believe that's unusual.

My own feeling about tourists in restaurants is that, if their garb and their money is deemed acceptable and they behave in a civil fashion, they are entitled to enjoy themselves without being belittled for their ignorance. It's not a matter of religion or morality, but of seeking pleasure along with their nourishment; these are restaurants, not temples.

[ANK02]

Has anyone been to Le Scheffer in the 16th? It was recommended to me as a good little bistro with a view (or close proximity) to the Eiffel Tower. Thought it make a good place to celebrate our last night in Paris on an upcoming trip.

[gastrominator]

There has been some discussion about what constitutes mid range restaurants in Paris.Here is my take .Cost is per person with no wine or drinks for a 3 course dinner

Mid range  .        E 45-65

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Thanks for agreeing with me Pierre. I find your estimate about right. With wine that would be, well, €100pp!

[fresh_a]

Concerning the Scheffer, I had never heard about it until a very disagreeable client asked me about it recently. Not a good recommendation...

[Parigi]

I haven't eaten at La Bourse ou La Vie recently. That was a nice a mid-range place.

And I don't mind that tourists go or do not there. After all, we, a group of English-speakers, are sharing dining info about Paris here. Whatever recommendations we make here, they are read and known, duh. Don't tell me one comes to this board to ask for info that he does not want others to have.

Edited March 9, 2010 by Parigi (log)