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Posted (edited)

crayfish2.thumb.jpg.563292a1c1ae09b391b20d3a6591cc0e.jpg

 

Crayfish get complicated. Especially in China. 10 years ago, although a few people knew what they were, next to no-one ate them. The one species of Chinese crayfish, Cambaroides dauricus was (and still is) very rare and they are very small, so not really worth eating. Today in 2024, it is said that 90% of all crayfish eaten by humans are done so in China.

 

But first the name. For a start, as I’m sure everyone knows, they are not fish but crustaceans. More importantly, they go under four common names in English. All are derived from the Old French word crevisse, at first spelled creusses (wih ‘u’ being pronounced as ‘v’ in Old English). This first appeared in the early 1400s. In modern French, it is écrevisse.

 

By 1555 this had morphed into crefysshe, the earliest fish-like reference, found in Richard Eden's Decades of the Newe Worlde or West India (eG-friendly Amazon.com link).

 

Crawfish followed in 1624 in The Generall Historie of Virginia, New England, and the Summer Isles (eG-friendly Amazon.com link) by Capt. John Smith, now mainly known for his part in the Pocahontas myths and legends.

 

They caught‥great craw-fishes.”

 

More recent arrivals are crawdad (in an 1878 Indiana magazine) and its variant crawdaddy (1901 in a Minnesota news paper, The Globe).

 

In China they are 小龙虾 (xiǎo lóng xiā). This literally means ‘small dragon shrimp’ but more pragmatically means ‘little lobster’. This can be misleading as some restaurants drop the ‘small’ part on their menus leaving the diners expecting lobster but getting crayfish. Price is your best guide. Lobster is much, much more expensive; one lobster will cost more than 2 kg of crayfish. I've never heard of any restaurant charging lobster prices for crayfish. An older name, 螯虾 (áo xiā) is less ambiguous, meaning 'nipper (or chela) shrimp', but I guess the marketing people saw that one off.

 

Having sorted out names (at least in two languages) there is still confusion. Where do the things come from?

 

The crayfish eaten today, Astacus fluviatilis were first imported to East Asia in the 1930s from Louisiana in the USA, to Japan. To feed not humans but bullfrogs which were and remain a popular protein. The frogs were imported from the USA, too.

 

Only during the years after World War 2, did Japanese troops introduce the Louisiana crayfish to China. They were still largely shunned as being unfit for human consumption although they did for a time become popular pets.

 

However some people, mainly rural peasant farmers, were eating them as a cheap or even free food supply. In the 2000s, many of these people, especially the younger generations, left their homes to seek employment in the cities when China became the world’s factory and the economy was starting to boom. Like migrants everywhere, they took their food culture with them and their new neighbours were happy to supply them with their needs.

 

By 2016, the number being eaten had risen hugely and a trend developed, first in Shanghai then across China. Crayfish became a hugely popular meal among mainly young people in the same way as the various hotpots across China are enjoyed. As a communal activity.

 

Groups of friends began to meet over huge platters of crayfish, peeling them themselves and washing them down with beers. Informal, messy and great fun! They would get through kilos of the critters – 20 kg for a party of four is not uncommon. This continues to this day.

 

Crayfish farms began to sprout up all over China but especially in Hebei and Jiangsu provinces – it is no coincidence these border Beijing and Shanghai, respectively.

 

Today, live crayfish are ubiquitous; supermarkets carry them in huge tankfuls and I can have them delivered to my door live or cooked in twenty minutes.

 

crayfish.thumb.jpg.2a5946f40f08ac14b4f1f311fd931f8e.jpg

Crayfish in my local supermarket

 

So how are they cooked, you rightfully ask.

 

Generally, they are stir-fried with popular seasonings such as garlic, or with Beijing’s 13-spice mix.

_20240621123755.thumb.jpg.88a578648b5c1a213ec9538d036aa25b.jpg

13-Spice Powder

 

麻辣 (má là), the well known Sichuan flavour of Sichuan pepper and chilli is also a popular choice. The liquid component of any sauce is often beer although that's usually mostly boiled off; it tends to be a dry but sticky dish.

 

malacrayfish.thumb.jpg.391e68c77ae0b535107472f717036206.jpg

Mala crayfish being cooked

 

You can even get your crayfish fix at KFC or Pizza Hut where they throw them on pizzas.

 

Crayfishpizza.thumb.jpg.8d488e5714204efc34ef79de239fcb8f.jpg

 

You may have come across Lay’s crayfish chips / crisps which are now sold through Amazon, but originated in China.

 

lays.thumb.jpg.23e83d1270724aa23de88238e97d5493.jpg

 

All that said, I seldom eat them. Too much pain for so little gain. I’m sure de-shelling them and finding the meat consumes more calories than they replace! Give me real lobsters! Hang the expense!

 

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
  • Like 4

...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted (edited)

Chinese cuisine is possibly best known for its rapid cook stir-frying techniques but they know how to take it slow, too. One dish is known both for its unusual name and for its lengthy cooking time.

 

I’m talking about Fujian province’s well-known (at least in China) signature dish, 佛跳墙 (fó tiào qiáng). Fujian lies on China’s south-eastern coast opposite the island of Taiwan. This location means that seafood is a major part of the cuisine.

 

Yes, despite China’s preference this dish uses a lot of dried ingredients alongside the fresh. It must have been dreamt up by a Qing dynasty Chinese Ottolenghi, containing as it does eighteen or more ingredients depending on the chef.

 

佛跳墙 (fó tiào qiáng) translates as Buddha “Leaps the Wall” or is commonly mistranslated as Buddha jumps over the wall. This is said to refer to a Buddhist monk who, having smelled the dish being made, broke his vows by leaving his monastery and sampling the decidedly non-vegetarian dish. It is reported that when he was chastised he said that even the Buddha himself would not have been able to resist. Not that all Chinese Buddhist’s are vegetarian. The Dalai Lama isn’t.

 

The most common ingredients involved in this long cooked stew or soup-like dish include:

 

1. Lean pork (瘦肉 - shòu ròu)

 

porktenderloin.thumb.jpg.249cad1c45dfb6639dbd0c80b1bbd250.jpg

 

2. Silkie chicken (乌骨鸡 - wū gǔ jī)

 

silkie(dead).thumb.jpg.04b56c8c5cf3cb72094b28063e3ef873.jpg

 

3. Chicken’s feet (凤爪 - fèng zhǎo)

 

ChickenFeet.thumb.jpg.7e0e764b29c1f45e7174bdcdc8f137ec.jpg

 

4. Dried or fresh abalone (鲍鱼 - bào yú)

 

Abalone.thumb.jpg.329e1bc306484806eee151c2e0858c7b.jpg

 

5. Pigeon (鸽蛋 - gē dàn) or quail eggs (鹌鹑蛋 - ān chún dàn)

 

boiledpigeoneggs2.thumb.jpg.6d608a5a60b1a07b973f8b7fe5d6a0ab.jpg

Pigeon Eggs

 

quaileggs.thumb.jpg.b4570cd6c2b3bd0bcc831a4fe1bbc0c2.jpg

Quail eggs

 

6. Deer leg tendons (鹿 筋)

 

deer-tendons.thumb.jpg.32a95aa24a27619276593db8dd8e05d5.jpg

 

7. Fish swim bladder (鱼肚 - yú dǔ)

 

Fishmaw.thumb.jpg.fc0f57d088524585830dadea90423b33.jpg

 

8. Dried scallops (扇贝干 - shàn bèi gān)

 

rtdriedscallops2.thumb.jpg.65049890924a8d1e31bf668064bf8716.jpg

 

9. Sea Cucumber (海参 - hǎi shēn)

 

seacucumber2.thumb.jpg.75953e52a1477aeca6522b2bd202a9ed.jpg

 

10. Shark Fin (鱼翅 - yú chì)

 

sharkfinbutiao.thumb.jpg.88b4cc4e6dabfaf6cb69d3624c0012b3.jpg

 

A few years back the communist party banned the use of sharks fins at official functions, although they are still available. However, awareness of the cruelty involved in harvesting them has resulted in a sharp decline in their consumption.

 

Instead artificial fin made from konjak is being used to supply the desired texture. Less often, sharks skin is substituted.

 

O1CN01lQinGu1SgSO9sJtQZ___3885522276.thumb.jpg.fa6f06ea366025b5b64f58aca38b8f5f.jpg

Shark Skin

 

Then the herbal components all of which are considered to be medicinal.

 

11. Angelica sinensis (当归 - dāng guī)

 

angelicasinensis.thumb.jpg.e8c600a8e56ee7303d024e37efe2fbb8.jpg

 

12. Astragalus L. (黄芪 - huáng qí)

 

codonopsis-roots_2.thumb.jpg.f5420f69bc4baffeadcfe5f61d0bec19.jpg

 

 

13. Codonopsis pilosula (党参dǎng shēn)

 

Dangshen.thumb.jpg.beb48d16c9cce454c39a4c2ee529b469.jpg

 

14. Cordceps militaris (虫草花 - chóng cǎo huā)

 

Cordyceps.thumb.jpg.f05bbf1e05ae10b19f651f12e31e9ee1.jpg

 

15. Dried  Chinese Yam (淮山 - huái shān)

 

DriedChineseYam.thumb.jpg.5430d8707e43121c689049da7f036c82.jpg

 

16. Goji Berries (枸杞 - gǒu qǐ)

 

gojiberries.thumb.jpg.984590bf45f9e01abcf1e450d161d121.jpg

 

17. Jujubes (枣子 - zǎo zi)

 

jujubes2.thumb.jpg.1bcf0c2285be41e8e5b5e5d5c5938c80.jpg

 

18. Ginger (姜 - jiāng)

 

regularginger.thumb.jpg.04d102fa62f7d35c4fb8bad5467c6ed6.jpg

 

19. Solomon’s Seal - (兰 qián lán).

 

soomon_s-seal.thumb.jpg.bc7dc08fb559b61f0e3144d261791f10.jpg

 

20. Codonopsis pilosula (党参 - dǎng shēn)

 

Dangshen.thumb.jpg.beb48d16c9cce454c39a4c2ee529b469.jpg

 

21. Ginseng (人参 - rén shēn)

 

Ginseng.jpg

 

After that lengthy list, thankfully the cooking instructions are short to relate but long to achieve. Bung the lot, except for the eggs, into a slow cooker with chicken stock and good quality Shaoxing wine and simmer for six hours. Refrigerate overnight. Next day boil the eggs then heat up the stew, add the eggs and stand back to avoid leaping Buddhists.

 

 

 

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
  • Like 3

...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted
4 minutes ago, Tropicalsenior said:

Good Lord! I take it that this is a festival dish not a typical weeknight dinner.

 

indeed. Not necessarily a festival dish, but almost exclusively a restaurant dish. I don't know anyone who makes it at home. I have eaten it in Fujian, but although it was OK, I'm not planning to rush back.

 

  • Thanks 1

...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted (edited)

OIP-C.jpg.24029c0d90c65a38d06f14722a439f0d.jpg

 

山箭菜 (shān jiàn cài) or 本山箭 (běn shān jiàn), wasabi (Japanese: わさび) is not used in Chinese cuisine although many people are partial to sushi and sashimi (both of which originated in China, but then fell out of favour until reintroduced when there was a trend for Japanese food some twenty years ago. All the ‘Japanese’ restaurants were Chinese-owned and most have now gone, although supermarkets and some small shacks still sell sushi with decidedly Chinese characteristics.

 

However China, despite generally loathing the Japanese, have a yen for some Japanese Yen (and their electronic goods and cameras). Today, wasabi is grown in various parts of China. Most is exported to Japan, although I do manage to get hold of some escapees.

 

I’ve never seen it in any store, but can get it by express delivery online. It comes with dire warnings as to storing it correctly. I am advised to store it between 0℃ and 6℃ for a maximum of 14 days. It should not be frozen or stored at room temperature.

 

This bag, from Yunnan province, contains 36g of vacuum-packed fresh wasabi root and cost approximately $4 USD. However delivery cost another $3.20. Still, to me, it’s worth it. I could buy a 100g bag with no increase in the delivery charge, but I wouldn't get through it in 14 days.

 

wasabi2.thumb.jpg.eca308a13a90c082b4bb2950ce0ece05.jpg

 

Of course, it tastes much better when grated properly using my sharkskin wasabi grater.

 

 

Wasabigrinder.thumb.jpg.6fbaf631542de693004ebadfbe41fff6.jpg

 

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
  • Like 2

...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted (edited)

... and here for your perusal is 500g of donkey meat. Not cheap; ¥88. About double the cost of beef.

 

donkeymeat.thumb.jpg.a8857ecba1b60ee14c6dbb1c5d65343b.jpg

 

The julienned ginger is added as it is thought to prevent 'off smells' or 'gaminess' in some meats. Lamb often gets the same treatment.

 

Guess what's on my menu tonight.

 

(Thinking about it though, some donkey sashimi might go well with the wasabi above.)

 

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
  • Like 2

...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I guess it would be dishonest of me to omit this. It is a Chinese ingredient and some eat it, although very few. For home cooking, it is usually only available in 'farmer's markets' but there are restaurants serving dishes containing it, especially hotpots. In fact, many of those restaurants sell little else. I’ve never seen it in any supermarket.

 

You won't easily find the restaurants selling it any of the popular tourist places but they can be found, particularly in Jilin Province in NE China by the North Korean border and here in Guangxi where I live. I have seen them in Beijing, although those there were ordered to temporarily close during the Beijing Olympics in 2008. There are such restaurants within fewer than five minutes walk from my home. They never closed despite the Olympics’ historic link with Liuzhou*.

 

Today, I was perusing my grocery delivery app for some meat for dinner when, to my surprise, I saw a listing and photograph for 香肉 (xiāng ròu). (ròu) means meat, while (xiāng) means ‘fragrant’ or ‘aromatic’. Together they are a dialectal euphemism for dog meat, more standardly 狗肉 (gǒu ròu). I’ve never seen it advertised in this way before.

 

Don’t worry! I didn’t buy it. Not out of any ethical concerns or sentiment, but simply because I don’t consider it to be good meat. Carnivorous mammals seldom, if ever are.

 

Anyway, it’s ¥38 / $5.33 USD for 500g / 1.1 lbs.

 

* 李宁 (lǐ níng), Li Ning, is a gymnast who was the People’s Republic of China’s first Olympic champion when he won three gold, two silver and one bronze in the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles. This was also the first Olympics in which the PRC participated.

 

After retiring from gymnastics he founded what is now one of China’s largest sports’ goods companies. He also lit the Olympic torch at the 2008 Games in Beijing.

 

He is a native Liuzhou citizen and returns often. The local sports’ stadium, the building of which he mainly sponsored, is named after him. I have met him several times. We didn't eat 'fragrant meat'.


_20240824143816.thumb.jpg.eaba7fdb4f7799bf274a5b575196cc83.jpg

This is the image from the online listing. Why it's coloured like this, I don't know.

 

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
  • Like 1

...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Somewhat inspired by the turkey-free Thanksgiving topic, I thought I’d look at what birds are available to me here apart from chicken and duck which I have looked at before.

 

Turkey 🦃 is available but takes a bit of searching out. It is not a popular meat in China or in my mouth! It is known as 火鸡 (huǒ jī), literally ‘fire chicken 🔥🐔’. I’m told nearly all turkey goes to pet food manufacturers. The rest goes to ex-pat Americans in Shanghai around this time of year. I’ve never see it sold in markets or supermarkets here in Guangxi, although a few restaurants do have it on their menus, but always in a Chinese style preparation. Few have ovens! That said, there is a turkey farm on the outskirts of the city which is where I got the pet food information.

 

Turkeys currently on sale today range through $35 for a 5-6 kg bird; $60 for a 6-7kg; $70 for a 7-8 kg. The latter two are imported from Russia, whereas the first is domestically produced.

 

2da9ce48ade04dc2.thumb.jpg.f78c949ca9a37567df1d7dd4c1b44019.jpg

Goose

 

Goose, known as (é) is more popular, especially in the south and in Hong Kong. Cantonese restaurants throughout China have it on their menus, roasted. They do have ovens. Again I’d say few people cook it at home. Even fewer people have ovens at home. Whole birds are anywhere between $25 and $50.

 

RoastGoose.thumb.jpg.6b429da799e026286e056c71977a0517.jpg

Roast Goose

 

鸽子 (gē zi), pigeon or 雏鸽  (chú gē), squab are considered medicinal in TCM and are often used to make restorative pigeon soups. Wildly available for home cooking in supermarkets and on-line delivery, live or dressed. Prices for uncooked pigeons range from $4.50 to $13 depending on size. They are also roasted in Cantonese restaurants as well as appearing in other Chinese style dishes such as hot pots and stir fries.

 

pigeons.thumb.jpg.d49307c832aee2b4d70e66f20ea3acd2.jpg.348b13896f8d14ee1ccb3cfbf283a466.jpg

Pigeons in my Market

 

pigeon.thumb.jpg.884d0e8e2c2435cad0b819e1086a2933.jpg

Pigeon

 

 

 

1908023569_RoastPigeons.thumb.jpg.f4b1a2cf61f66c98933cfc05a2bc5818.jpg.0908fa7dc6b5a3860e0a4fc5e62ecc8d.jpg

Roast Pigeon

 

Another common alternative bird is 鹌鹑 (ān chún), quail. These are much easier to find. For home cooking, they can be found in larger supermarkets but I can also buy them from the delivery food companies. They come live or dressed, as you prefer. Quail tend to cost around $4.50 to $5.50 per bird. There is no cost for dressing them. Grilled quail on a stick is a common roadside or food street snack.

 

O1CN01eD34PS1DKGnmnVR0m_!!1068510197.thumb.jpg.3d44d6f4e2391dd1e5dd8c0293b54680.jpg

Quail

 

Quail4.thumb.jpg.081eefc7d807b72ca0da0f0e5fffdab8.jpg

Roast Quail

 

I very occasionally see people selling pheasant on the streets like this man.

 

_20241113130920.thumb.jpg.0645381f1d718e893d13b1ff37754f4a.jpg

 

They are wild caught; the pheasants not the men. I’ve never bought any here in China. I’m not sure exactly what type of pheasant they are; China has several native species. Also, there are literally dozens of different names for the birds in Chinese. The most common is 雉鸡  (zhì jī). Despite the plethora of names, the actual birds are rare. Be careful! 野鸡 (yě jī) means pheasant, but is also slang for prostitute. I’ve never bought any of them either.

 

 

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...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted (edited)

Somehow, I for got to mention 鸵鸟 (tuó niǎo), ostrich in my last post above. Although I've never seen it in any store or market here, it is widely farmed, even in Liuzhou, mainly for their feathers. However the meat is available although most seems to go to pet food.

 

I can, however, buy it online for delivery. The problem is what is used for human consumption goes to the restaurants and I have to buy most cuts, including their offal, in bulk from 1kg to 10 g in some cases. Way too much for little me. I have eaten it in restaurants several times.

 

The only practical size for me is leg meat which I can buy in 500g (1.1 lb) packs for around $8 USD. Other available cuts include neck, belly, ribs and wings. Offal includes liver, gizzard, heart, palms tendons and intestines. Eggs are easier to find.

 

The meat is very similar to beef in appearance and texture, but gamier. Used in stir fries and hotpots.

 

leg.thumb.jpg.95ddef90c607858d0612fb13f2f562ff.jpg

Ostrich Leg

 

I can have live baby ostriches delivered should I take the notion to start an ostrich farm in my spare bedroom. $90 to $270 depending on age.

 

Peacocks are also available but not for eating so  far as I know. Although I bet some people have. Peacocks are around $300 with the rare white variety much more.

 

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
  • Like 3

...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted
9 hours ago, liuzhou said:

I can have live baby ostriches delivered should I take the notion to start an ostrich farm in my spare bedroom.

 

Thank you for this entertaining mental image! 😀 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I’m almost going nuts. I’d go fully nuts but many of the ‘nuts’ we eat aren’t nuts at all in the botanical sense. Many are drupe seeds; some are gymnosperm seeds; others are angiosperm seeds. However they are considered nuts in a culinary sense. The most eaten 'nut' is actually a legume.

 

I’ll start with one culinary nut which may leap to some minds when thinking of Chinese cuisine. 腰果 (yāo guǒ), literally Kidney Nut, Anacardium occidentale, the Cashew Nut. Native to South America but cultivated mainly in Africa, they are grown in limited amounts in China, particularly in Sanya, Hainan Province. However, Vietnam is the largest exporter and much of what we get here are from there.

 

cashewnuts.thumb.jpg.e1a7dd1e165047d89abca5ad06215a1a.jpg

 

However, cashews are used far less in Chinese cuisine than most people think (and isn’t a botanical nut; it’s a drupe seed). Although cashews are certainly easily available, they are nearly all eaten as a snack; rarely in cooked dishes.

 

Googling for ‘nut Chinese food’ returns dozens of recipes for cashew chicken, a dish I’ve never seen and which is absent from my food delivery app covering almost all the thousands of restaurants in the city. Using Chinese search engines return a blank.

 

In fact. the delivery app only mentions two dishes containing cashews – 腰果虾仁 (yāo guǒ xiā rén), cashew shrimp and 西芹百合炒腰果 (xī qín bǎi hé chǎo yāo guǒ), cashew with celery. These I have seen here, but not often. There are only two restaurants serving the shrimp dish and a two others selling the celery and  lily dish. Fuchsia Dunlop gives a recipe for Gong Bao (Kung Po in the west) Shrimp with Cashews in her ‘The Food of Sichuan’ (eG-friendly Amazon.com link), but as she notes, that is a recent, non-traditional innovation. 

 

993684669_celeryanddaylily.thumb.jpg.cef284c65a31fdc1db65d2bbfb9d6c0d.jpg.2302193a2b705bde42471637e698ee2e.jpg

Cashew, celery and day lily

 

The Chicken cashew dish seems to be a Chinese-American take on the Thai ไก่ผัดเม็ดมะม่วงหิมพานต์ (kị̀ p̄hạd mĕd mam̀awn), stir fried chicken with cashew nuts.

 

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
  • Like 2

...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
Mark Twain
 

The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted
4 hours ago, liuzhou said:

I’m almost going nuts. I’d go fully nuts but many of the ‘nuts’ we eat aren’t nuts at all in the botanical sense. Many are drupe seeds; some are gymnosperm seeds; others are angiosperm seeds. However they are considered nuts in a culinary sense. The most eaten 'nut' is actually a legume.

 

I’ll start with one culinary nut which may leap to some minds when thinking of Chinese cuisine. 腰果 (yāo guǒ), literally Kidney Nut, Anacardium occidentale, the Cashew Nut. Native to South America but cultivated mainly in Africa, they are grown in limited amounts in China, particularly in Sanya, Hainan Province. However, Vietnam is the largest exporter and much of what we get here are from there.

 

cashewnuts.thumb.jpg.e1a7dd1e165047d89abca5ad06215a1a.jpg

 

However, cashews are used far less in Chinese cuisine than most people think (and isn’t a botanical nut; it’s a drupe seed). Although cashews are certainly easily available, they are nearly all eaten as a snack; rarely in cooked dishes.

 

Googling for ‘nut Chinese food’ returns dozens of recipes for cashew chicken, a dish I’ve never seen and which is absent from my food delivery app covering almost all the thousands of restaurants in the city. Using Chinese search engines return a blank.

 

In fact. the delivery app only mentions two dishes containing cashews – 腰果虾仁 (yāo guǒ xiā rén), cashew shrimp and 西芹百合炒腰果 (xī qín bǎi hé chǎo yāo guǒ), cashew with celery. These I have seen here, but not often. There are only two restaurants serving the shrimp dish and a two others selling the celery and  lily dish. Fuchsia Dunlop gives a recipe for Gong Bao (Kung Po in the west) Shrimp with Cashews in her ‘The Food of Sichuan’ (eG-friendly Amazon.com link), but as she notes, that is a recent, non-traditional innovation. 

 

993684669_celeryanddaylily.thumb.jpg.cef284c65a31fdc1db65d2bbfb9d6c0d.jpg.2302193a2b705bde42471637e698ee2e.jpg

Cashew, celery and day lily

 

The Chicken cashew dish seems to be a Chinese-American take on the Thai ไก่ผัดเม็ดมะม่วงหิมพานต์ (kị̀ p̄hạd mĕd mam̀awn), stir fried chicken with cashew nuts.

 

 

I've never seen cashew chicken or cashew anything in any Chinese or Chinese-American restaurants here in NYC or growing up outside the city in the suburbs.  In Thai restaurants, though, that's a different story! Ubiquitous there....

Posted
4 hours ago, KennethT said:

I've never seen cashew chicken or cashew anything in any Chinese or Chinese-American restaurants here in NYC or growing up outside the city in the suburbs.  In Thai restaurants, though, that's a different story! Ubiquitous there....

 

That's interesting. Yet, Googling cashew chicken gives endless recipes for the dish on American websites or other sites claiming it's a Chinese American takeaway classic in Chinese restaurants. Wikipedia's entry for 'Cashew Chicken' says: 

 

Quote

Cashew chicken (Chinese: 腰果雞丁) is a Chinese-American dish that combines chicken (usually stir-fried but occasionally deep-fried, depending on the variation) with cashew nuts and either a light brown garlic sauce or a thick sauce made from chicken stock, soy sauce and oyster sauce.

 

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Posted

Cashew chicken variations are common in my experience.   Cannot say I have sought them out, but I can confidently say they are out there.  (Most of my sampling is in Virginia and Maryland.)

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Posted
11 hours ago, liuzhou said:

I’m almost going nuts. I’d go fully nuts but many of the ‘nuts’ we eat aren’t nuts at all in the botanical sense. Many are drupe seeds; some are gymnosperm seeds; others are angiosperm seeds. However they are considered nuts in a culinary sense. The most eaten 'nut' is actually a legume.

 

I’ll start with one culinary nut which may leap to some minds when thinking of Chinese cuisine. 腰果 (yāo guǒ), literally Kidney Nut, Anacardium occidentale, the Cashew Nut. Native to South America but cultivated mainly in Africa, they are grown in limited amounts in China, particularly in Sanya, Hainan Province. However, Vietnam is the largest exporter and much of what we get here are from there.

 

cashewnuts.thumb.jpg.e1a7dd1e165047d89abca5ad06215a1a.jpg

 

However, cashews are used far less in Chinese cuisine than most people think (and isn’t a botanical nut; it’s a drupe seed). Although cashews are certainly easily available, they are nearly all eaten as a snack; rarely in cooked dishes.

 

Googling for ‘nut Chinese food’ returns dozens of recipes for cashew chicken, a dish I’ve never seen and which is absent from my food delivery app covering almost all the thousands of restaurants in the city. Using Chinese search engines return a blank.

 

In fact. the delivery app only mentions two dishes containing cashews – 腰果虾仁 (yāo guǒ xiā rén), cashew shrimp and 西芹百合炒腰果 (xī qín bǎi hé chǎo yāo guǒ), cashew with celery. These I have seen here, but not often. There are only two restaurants serving the shrimp dish and a two others selling the celery and  lily dish. Fuchsia Dunlop gives a recipe for Gong Bao (Kung Po in the west) Shrimp with Cashews in her ‘The Food of Sichuan’ (eG-friendly Amazon.com link), but as she notes, that is a recent, non-traditional innovation. 

 

993684669_celeryanddaylily.thumb.jpg.cef284c65a31fdc1db65d2bbfb9d6c0d.jpg.2302193a2b705bde42471637e698ee2e.jpg

Cashew, celery and day lily

 

The Chicken cashew dish seems to be a Chinese-American take on the Thai ไก่ผัดเม็ดมะม่วงหิมพานต์ (kị̀ p̄hạd mĕd mam̀awn), stir fried chicken with cashew nuts.

 

 

 

Cashew chicken has been, in Seattle Chinese restaurants, a staple for many decades. I just looked at the menus for four Chinese restaurants in my part of the city and they all show cashew chicken. 

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Posted (edited)

Today, I’m being happy.

 

I’m looking at 开心果 (kāi xīn guǒ), literally ’happy nut’, Pistacia vera, pistachio nuts. Native to Afghanistan, Iran and Central Asia, this is another drupe seed, rather than a true nut. Pistachios are members of the cashew family which also contains mangos.

 

.thumb.jpg.72c076a714f210b4beabcc69bfcd63cb.jpg

 

They were introduced across Europe by the Romans throughout their empire. In the 19th century low yielding varieties were introduced from Europe to the USA. The United States Department of Agriculture later introduced hardier cultivars to California collected from China and commercial production began in 1929 and now the USA is the world’s top producer, followed by Iran. Ironically, a good proportion of the pistachios sold in China, today are from the USA, presumably grown on those trees and their descendents. Very limited numbers are grown in China. 82,000 tonnes in 2022 compared to the USA with 400,000 tonnes - still enough to make China the fourth largest.

 

pistachioUSA.thumb.jpg.683cfce999da1c55a98114d47c984e34.jpg

American Pistachios

 

As with cashews above, they are mostly eaten as a snack; as an ingredient they are used in hideously garish coloured cakes, for which they are sold as pistachio paste.

 

PistachioCake.thumb.jpg.6521e366dd1345b200688bf18daceb84.jpg

Pistachio Cake - Helena is a large bakery chain.

 

Pisstachiopaste.thumb.jpg.4503be0e357f4b27064fa59cb233e251.jpg

 

I’ve also seen pistachio bao buns. No thanks.

 

PistachioBuns.thumb.jpg.6db9e9afbdaccb00fac62dbe4ea2665e.jpg

Pistachio Buns

 

The are used in pistachio ice cream and I’ve seen pistachio milk tea on offer.

 

I can find no evidence of use in Chinese savoury dishes though There are a few recipes for stir-fries using pistachios, but they are all North American.

 

Cake and bun images from Meituan shopping app.

Edited by liuzhou (log)
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Now that we can't edit posts after 12 hours, i have to post this separately. Hmmm.

 

pistachiosinacoconutshellbowl.thumb.jpg.52ec9b791be5881186cf19b1cceb65e5.jpg

 

Pistachios in a coconut shell bowl.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Next up we go to the wall. Or we don’t.

 

核桃 (hé tao) or less often 胡桃 (hú táo), are Juglans regia, Walnuts. Add (rén) to those names and you have walnut kernels. Both unshelled and shelled are widely available, 核桃 (hé tao) being walnuts in the shell and 核桃 仁 (hé tao rén). Walnuts are true botanical nuts.

 

walnuts2.thumb.jpg.320ff1837e94fccba30ccae93eb4ed54.jpg

 

Of course walnuts are not etymology linked to over-devoted Pink Floyd fans or any other walls. Introduced to English from Frisian as walhhnutu, the ‘wal’ part ultimately originates in Old Teutonic walχo-z, meaning foreign. Foreign to the Romans that is. ‘Nutu’ is an early version of ‘nut’. 'Wal' is etymologically related to Wales, and was originally an insult to the people of that fine country who were regarded as foreign barbarians.

 

Not only are they very popular in China, but China is the world’s largest producer, with 1.4 million tonnes in 2022, followed by the USA with 0.68 million tonnes.

 

Again most are eaten here as snacks or incorporated in bakery goods- cakes and buns. One local bakery does a good jujube and walnut cake.

 

jujubeandwalnutcake.thumb.jpg.a9e7625b393a49cff30b39b8b37b1ae4.jpg

 

There is a savoury use. Unlike the missing Chicken and Cashew dish, Chicken and Walnuts is popular in Cantonese cuisine, especially in Hong Kong. The interwebs have recipes. Hop Po Gai Ding in Cantonese.

 

walnuts2.thumb.jpg.1b4ff53b828a0dddf95934af5ef455c9.jpg

 

One interesting use of walnuts, although non-culinary, is interesting. 文玩核桃 (wén wán hé tao) means something like ‘cultural playing balls. Almost every day, I see usually elderly men like me, holding two walnuts in one hand and manipulating them. It is seen as a form of therapy. Over the years, the walnut shells become polished and red. This link explains in detail. I have two pairs myself along with the required brushes for maintenance. They were a gift. Mine aren’t red yet.

 

HandWalnuts.thumb.jpg.312fbd9a163cf993c6375796335b831e.jpg
 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
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Posted

This will be a short one.

 

Prunus amygdalus or Prunus dulcis, 扁桃 (biǎn táo) are almonds. These, too are not a true nut but a drupe. I never buy them in China and suggest no one should. The problem is that in China they are almost always Prunus armeniaca 杏仁 (xìng rén) instead. Although they are related, these are not Prunus armeniaca but apricot kernels.

 

Almonds3.thumb.jpg.5197e6ea0a0229cc6200c63dc90d56cb.jpg

Almonds? Apricot kernels? Who knows?

 

Quote

Apricot kernels can cause potentially fatal cyanide poisoning when consumed. Symptoms include nausea, fever, headaches, insomnia increased thirst, lethargy, nervousness, various aches and pains in joints and muscles, and a drop in blood pressure.

 

Wikipedia

 

No thanks!

 

Real almonds are imported from the USA, but that too is problematic. According to this article

 

Quote

 the crop extracts a staggering price from the land, consuming more water than all the showering, dish-washing and other indoor household water use of California’s 39 million people.

 

Also, the high price imports can fetch, some unscrupulous vendors may be passing apricot kernels off as “Californian”.

 

This article is about fake imports in the fruit trade, but the same applies to almonds and other goods. The inclusion of a photograph of a market in Liuzhou does not imply it happens here, although it may.

 

So, you still don’t really know what you’re buying. Avoid.

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The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted

I'm glad to see you wandering into nuts, whether they're truly nuts or drupes. Two observations, with related questions:

 

1. The walnut shells you show here look much smoother than I'm used to. Do you suppose the varieties are different? Or is it a vaguary of photo processing? Or are they much more polished in the shell?

 

walnuts2.thumb.jpg.1b4ff53b828a0dddf95934af5ef455c9.jpg

 

2. You don't mention anything about dyeing pistachios red. I personally think it's an abomination, although I'm a native Californian. Have you encountered that phenomenon? It was all the rage when I was growing up: pistachios had to be dyed red.

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Posted (edited)

I have something to get of my chest.

 

栗子 (lì zi) are trees in the genus Castanea. There are several of such around the northern hemisphere which supply their nuts for human consumption. Here, I want to look mainly at 板栗 (bǎn lì), Castanea mollissima, the Chinese chestnut as these are what are available not only here, but most places. The most common chestnuts, Chinese chestnuts are joined by the European chestnut, C. sativa, aka known as Spanish chestnut; the Japanese chestnut; C. crenata; but sadly not the near-extinct American chestnut, C. dentata.

 

Chestnuts.thumb.JPG.78a00b38d9dab1c57723723dab22227c.JPG

 

Not chestnuts are the horse chestnuts, which are so-named because they look like chestnuts but are unrelated and mildly poisonous to humans. Neither are water chestnuts which aren’t even nuts in any sense; they are tubers of an aquatic herbaceous plant.

 

Of course, the name chestnut has nothing to do with chests of any sort. It came into English from the French chesteine which in turn came from the Latin name. Chestaine morphed into chesten so we had chesten nuts for a while and this gradually changed into chestnut. Th name derives back to the ancient Greek κάστανον referring to a place called Castania where the nuts were prolific. No one is sure where this place was in Greece and there are competing theories. The Italian polenta was originally made using chestnut flour from antiquity until the 17th century imported the dreaded maize/cØrn instead.

 

Chestnuts are unusual among nuts in that they contain little in the way of protein or fat, instead being mostly carbohydrates. Something to consider if you are avoiding carbs for any reason.

 

chestnuts-peeled2.thumb.jpg.cbf69ae46f452abbc4aff843ec7fb495.jpg

Peeled chestnuts

 

As a child in the UK, I loved the smell of roasting chestnuts around this time of year and still associate them with Christmas. Street vendors hawked them on every corner. However the actually chestnuts disappointed, although they were popular. So I was delighted to find the same thing here, not only at Christmas which is not celebrated in China. As in other places, here they are roasted in a mix of salt and sugar. I’d guess this is how most are eaten all across China.

 

chestnutstall-Copy.thumb.JPG.2bb120b7971564d66ce27fab30693d9d.JPG

Roast Chestnut lady in Liuzhou

 

They are very common and are sold raw and cooked, the latter usually vacuum packed but sometimes frozen, in supermarkets.

 

A number of dishes use them. Fuchsia Dunlop has a recipe for Sichuan chicken and chestnuts in her The Food Of Sichuan (eG-friendly Amazon.com link) as well as a recipe for Red-cooked pork and chestnuts in her The Land of Fish and Rice (eG-friendly Amazon.com link), her book on eastern Chinese cooking. 

 

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My take on Chicken and Chestnuts Sichuan style - not pretty but tasty.

 

There are other regional variations on the chicken dish. I often make the Sichuan version in winter. The chestnuts give a texture like roast potatoes. I think I know what might be on the chez liuzhou menu for Christmas.

 

 

Edited by liuzhou
Formatting (log)
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The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted
25 minutes ago, Smithy said:

I'm glad to see you wandering into nuts, whether they're truly nuts or drupes. Two observations, with related questions:

 

1. The walnut shells you show here look much smoother than I'm used to. Do you suppose the varieties are different? Or is it a vaguary of photo processing? Or are they much more polished in the shell?

 

2. You don't mention anything about dying pistachios red. I personally think it's an abomination, although I'm a native Californian. Have you encountered that phenomenon? It was all the rage when I was growing up: pistachios had to be dyed red.

 

1. Those  walnuts do look atypically  smooth. Perhaps a different cultivar. Perhaps, I should have used this image which is, I think, more typical.

 

_20241202103829.thumb.jpg.e3c491001d0c6ab2ceff61482a883396.jpg

 

2. Red pistachios. An abomination indeed! Never seen those anywhere in my life and never want to. Why?

 

A bit of digging around provides this weak excuse of an explanation.

 

Quote

The shell of the pistachio is naturally a beige color, but it may be dyed red or green in commercial pistachios. Originally, dye was applied to hide stains on the shells caused when the nuts were picked by hand. In the 21st century, most pistachios are harvested by machine and the shells remain unstained.

 

hmmm!

 

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...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

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The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted (edited)

@Smithy

 

I just accidentally found a picture of the red pistachios. They look dangerous. Fluorescent! Radioactive! There is no way I'd put those in my mouth. How anyone thought this made pistachios look better defeats me.

 

shutterstock_2798657.jpg.6de08c4027276f6e6baa9d035247db9f.jpg

Image: Shutterstock

 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
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Posted (edited)

Here is a tale of mistranslation, mispronunciation, mishearing and general linguistic chaos much like my daily life.

 

ginkgo.jpg.45d545c6e419fac63986c10452cf67b0.jpg

Gingko Tree in summer (left) and (winter) - Liuzhou

 

白果 (bái guǒ, literally white nut), Gingko biloba is a living fossil dating back 270 million years and native to China. The trees are extremely long-living with examples still alive and well after 1400 years. The trees were Introduced to Japan in the 1300s and became known in Japanese as 銀杏 (gin kyo), literally ’silver apricot’ from the Chinese 银杏 (yín xìng). They are unrelated to apricots or anything else. This Japanese name was then mispronounced / misspelled when picked up by western botanists and when misheard and transliterated became gingko or ginkgo. Generally, both spellings are acceptable today, but ginkgo being preferred. Gingko is closer to the Chinese pronunciation of 银果 (yín guǒ), meaning ‘silver nut’, but not used to mean either gingko or ginkgo!

😕

ginkgogingko.thumb.jpg.839b9d70768286ab72baf760663509de.jpg

Google N-gram showing relative usage of the two spellings. 

 

Whatever you call them, the nuts are credited by TCM with curing all sorts of diseases including dementia, asthma, bronchitis, and kidney and bladder disorders, although there is no conclusive evidence for these claims.

 

GingkoNuts2.thumb.jpg.24dfb97bae589274116bf5ff10568b94.jpg

Unshelled Gingkgo nuts

 

They are widely used in soups, stir-fries, and hot pots as well as the famous Buddhist vegetarian dish 罗汉斋 (luó hàn zhāi), “ often referred to in English as “Buddha’s Delight” although the Chinese just means “Buddha’s Vegetarian Diet”.

 

FreshGinko.thumb.jpg.56383eb977f31fb1fef82ce7af1c4e6f.jpg

Shelled, cooked nuts

 

They also featured in my dinner last night! https://forums.egullet.org/topic/166082-dinner-2024/?do=findComment&comment=2438490


 

Edited by liuzhou (log)
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...your dancing child with his Chinese suit.

 

"No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot"
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The Kitchen Scale Manifesto

Posted
14 hours ago, liuzhou said:

@Smithy

 

I just accidentally found a picture of the red pistachios. They look dangerous. Fluorescent! Radioactive! There is no way I'd put those in my mouth. How anyone thought this made pistachios look better defeats me.

 

shutterstock_2798657.jpg.6de08c4027276f6e6baa9d035247db9f.jpg

Image: Shutterstock

 

 

So little kids could wear lipstick.

 

Though the red pistachios I remember were a deeper shade of red.  Possibly some long gone cariogenic dye.

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