Shopping sources and Customs regulations

[Sartain]

I am going to France next week for the first time in 13 years. Last time I was there I had just graduated college with no food sense whatsoever. This time I'm hoping to bring back some cheese and (permissible) foie / pate.

Stupid question about the cheese: do you have to specifically request the cryovac packaging from the Fromagerie? If so, can any one enlighten me to the appropriate French phrase?

Thanks in advance.

Steph

[RandyB]

Stupid question about the cheese: do you have to specifically request the cryovac packaging from the Fromagerie?  If so, can any one enlighten me to the appropriate French phrase?

Thanks in advance.

Steph

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"Emballé sous vide" or "en plastique sous vide". However, any shop that is upscale enough to have a vacuum machine for tourists will also (1) have a sign announcing it, and (2) speak enough English so you won`t need my translatiion.

Here`s some background information, too:

Several years ago I had a long conversation with a knowledgable USDA inspector at Chicago customs. She clarified the confusion over rules for importing cheeses. The reason there`s nothing on the USDA website is that the one rule is from the FDA, and well hidden in their site.

The rule is that cheeses made from raw milk must be aged for 6 months before being brought into the US. As far as I could learn, this is because of a disease that hasn`t actually been seen as a result of eating cheese for decades, and then there were only a few cases, not in the US. I think I found the rule under a commercial import category, although technically it would apply to individuals as well

She said the USDA doesn`t enforce the FDA rule, although Customs could. However, it would be a rare customs official who understood exactly what the rule was. (Thus, the unpredictable behavior of Customs officials mentioned above.) She said there shouldn`t be any problem importing cheeses, although she advised me that smelly cheeses could be more of a problem - practically if not legally.

So what I have done on at least a half dozen trips is have my cheeses very well packed and I declare them as "aged cheeses." I have never had this questioned at Chicago or Dulles customs.

Most recently I`ve been having my cheeses vacuum packed. Ferme St. Aubin on the Ile St. Louis will do it for you. My favorite cheese shop, Alléosse on rue Poncelet near pl. des Ternes, doesn`t have a vacuum machine. However, if they are not too busy they will take you to a nearby butcher where, for the trivial price of the plastic, they will vacuum pack the cheeses.

[John Talbott]

[d]o you have to specifically request the cryovac packaging from the Fromagerie? 

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My cheeserie, Quatre Hommes willingly and easily does it.

So what I have done on at least a half dozen trips is have my cheeses very well packed and I declare them as "aged cheeses." I have never had this questioned at Chicago or Dulles customs.

This works fine.

[Ptipois]

If so, can any one enlighten me to the appropriate French phrase?

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"Pourriez-vous me l'emballer sous vide s'il vous plaît ?"

"J'aimerais emporter ce fromage* emballé sous vide (s'il vous plaît)."

*Ou : ce magret de canard, ce foie gras, ce saucisson, etc.

[Busboy]

I am going to France next week for the first time in 13 years.  Last time I was there I had just graduated college with no food sense whatsoever.  This time I'm hoping to bring back some cheese and (permissible) foie / pate.

Stupid question about the cheese: do you have to specifically request the cryovac packaging from the Fromagerie?  If so, can any one enlighten me to the appropriate French phrase?

Thanks in advance.

Steph

←

If you find yourself at the well regarded Anne-Marie Cantin in the 7th, around the corner from the Rue Cler market, they will offer to cryovac for you, and I'll wager that the other higher-end cheese shops do, as well.

[Sartain]

Merci beaucoup to all for the quick French lesson. rue Cler is one of my must-visit spots during the one day I'm in Paris, so I'll definitely make it there!

Steph

[John Talbott]

Today's Expatica says:

New EU rules: no more camembert in your purse

PARIS, Nov 6, 2006 (AFP) - Hard cheese is OK in your carry-on, but stick that camembert and foie gras in your checked luggage, please.

"As a general rule, any malleable product is forbidden," it said on its website.

There's more at Expatica.fr.

[raisab]

This is awful indeed. I was thinking we would just have to check the wine in. The good news...the belly on the airplane is much colder.

But is is just sad that this is what our world has come to....

[bleudauvergne]

Soft cheeses are best buried in your luggage.

Makes sense to me.

[froggio]

I finally found the Matrix referred to above:  Animal Product Manual,

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Great link but so difficult to understand, no wonder the rules seem to be so fuzzy, I can see why a US Customs officer would not be too knowledgeable or motivated...

I have travelled often to Europe in the past 2 years each time coming back with lots of food products: cured meats, cheese, dried mushrooms, cans, jars, wine etc.

I was under the impression that cured pork meat and mushrooms were not acceptable so I always have the meats and dried mushrrooms vacuum-packed so as not attract the attention of those nosy beagles. I wash the packs in warm soapy water 2 or 3 times to eliminate odors.

Customs officers at Newark show a lackadaisical attitude, even when told I had foods in my luggage.

I have developed a new technique to circumvent some of those silly US rules governing food imports: i mail myself packages filled with food from Paris to NY. It's cheap, about 10 Euros at the cheapest (slow) rate, if you keep it under just 2 kgs. They were all vacuum-packed and all came through.

Edited November 14, 2006 by froggio (log)

[Chanterelle]

Just two weeks ago, on return to JFK from Paris, I had a can of bloc de foie gras d'oie confiscated. The agent showed me the Matrix print-out from May, but the November edition confirms it: France is considered to harbor bird flu, though only in certain areas. The guidelines vaguely instruct agents to "Contact your local PPQ-VRS-AQI Veterinarian or a PPQ-VRS-HQ Staff Veterinarian for current information on VS-defined areas for regionalized countries." But obviously a harried agent isn't about to do that when it's so much easier just to toss the can in the bin.

That said, the amazing Epoisses, aged Comte, and Roquefort I triple Ziplocked and stowed in my suitcase almost made up for losing the foie gras.

[bleudauvergne]

It's cheap, about 10 Euros at the cheapest (slow) rate, if you keep it under just 2 kgs. They were all vacuum-packed and all came through.

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The 2 kilo (4.5 pound) classic international box costs €18 these days and takes about 10 days to arrive. Go to La Poste and ask the clerk for one. You fill & seal it, address it, they weigh it and you're done.

[John Talbott]

That said, the amazing Epoisses, aged Comte, and Roquefort I triple Ziplocked and stowed in my suitcase almost made up for losing the foie gras.

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Having gone thru customs/TSA/etc the other way last night, I overheard a conversation between agents where voices were raised about what was allowed/not allowed, and it was clear that the rules are (to be generous and no pun intended) fluid.

That said, as a host I cannot encourage anything that borders on the illegal, but better than zip-locking 3 x's is shrink-wrapping, then zip-locking cheese (my Quatrehomme shop will do it free.)

Edited November 15, 2006 by John Talbott (log)

[docsconz]

That said, the amazing Epoisses, aged Comte, and Roquefort I triple Ziplocked and stowed in my suitcase almost made up for losing the foie gras.

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Having gone thru customs/TSA/etc the other way last night, I overheard a conversation between agents where voices were raised about what was allowed/not allowed, and it was clear that the rules are (to be generous and no pun intended) fluid.

That said, as a host I cannot encourage anything that borders on the illegal, but better than zip-locking 3 x's is shrink-wrapping, then zip-locking cheese (my Quatrehommes will do it free.)

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Since dogs have sensitive noses and the producer wrapping the package may be handling other items besides the legal ones being shrinkwrapped, an additional step that one might wish to do so as not to raise any red flags would be to wash it with soap and water to remove any traces of proteins that the producer might have left traces of on the package as he or she prepared it.

edited to add that I somehow missed this in Froggio's post above.

[RandyB]

That said, the amazing Epoisses, aged Comte, and Roquefort I triple Ziplocked and stowed in my suitcase almost made up for losing the foie gras.

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And Alléosse has promised to have a Cabri Ariègois ready for me tomorrow to take home to Seattle. Alas, they cannot be sure of having an Abbaye des Citeaux, or rather one that they would consider being sufficiently affiné to sell. This is a difficult cheese to find anywhere, as so little is made and shipped to Paris. I may just settle(!) for a Reblochon.

[John Talbott]

an additional step that one might wish to do so as not to raise any red flags would be to wash it with soap and water to remove any traces of proteins that the producer might have left traces of on the package as he or she prepared it.

Ah well then, John, that explains why my serveurs wear disposable gloves.

And Alléosse has promised to have a Cabri Ariègois ready for me tomorrow to take home to Seattle. Alas, they cannot be sure of having an Abbaye des Citeaux, or rather one that they would consider being sufficiently affiné to sell. This is a difficult cheese to find anywhere, as so little is made and shipped to Paris. I may just settle(!) for a Reblochon.

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I cannot find my notes but I recall P Wells saying in the IHT 10 years ago or so that the Abbaye des Citeaux was available at Alléosse one week in (?) May. Not to worry, you'll do fine and as I've said on my Seattle thread, you live in a great food city so you're going from food paradise back to food heaven.

[RandyB]

What I understand is that the monastery has a small list of regular customers they supply. Alléosse is apparently on their list, as they get the cheeses at various times. It is somewhat unpredictable because production is very limited. Other cheese shops, like my second choice la Ferme St. Aubin on the île St. Louis, used to be but isn`t currently on the list. So they will only get the Abbaye des Citeaux if there are some extras that the regulars haven`t ordered. Boursault in the 14th just pointedly said no and gave me a look that didn`t invite further conversation. (I was speaking French, so that wasn`t the problem.)

Alléosse is expecting an order, but they say the cheese usually needs a little time in their caves before they consider it ready to sell. So they won`t tell me until tomorrow if I can have one.

And I appreciate the kind words about Seattle, which I agree with. Unfortunately, I hear from friends back there, the glorious 7 weeks I`ve been here in Paris have been some of the stormiest and rainiest autumn weeks in many years in Seattle.

Edited November 15, 2006 by RandyB (log)

[Chanterelle]

That said, the amazing Epoisses, aged Comte, and Roquefort I triple Ziplocked and stowed in my suitcase almost made up for losing the foie gras.

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Having gone thru customs/TSA/etc the other way last night, I overheard a conversation between agents where voices were raised about what was allowed/not allowed, and it was clear that the rules are (to be generous and no pun intended) fluid.

That said, as a host I cannot encourage anything that borders on the illegal, but better than zip-locking 3 x's is shrink-wrapping, then zip-locking cheese (my Quatrehomme shop will do it free.)

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I always declare whatever I bring in -- not that I dig out the goods and insist upon the agent examining everything closely, but I've been randomly chosen for full scrutiny in the past and have no wish to get busted for smuggling. It seems that once an agent has discovered something "exciting" he's happy. Bringing in cheese hasn't aroused interest in the last few years (touch wood).

It's nice to know that most good merchants will at least shrink wrap. When I used to travel to France more often I would simply pick industrial cheese in hermetic packaging to take home. But I've finally figured out that life's too short to waste calories on President Camembert...

[RandyB]

As I feared, although Alléosse has received some Abbaye des Citeaux, they refuse to sell me one before it is properly aged in their caves. I begged, to no avail. I guess that is the sign of a fromager justly proud of maintaining his quality.

The good news for the rest of you, if you want to try a delicious and hard-to-find cheese, is that you will be able to get it some time soon (I`d call) at Alléosse. Here is the description on the Alléosse website:

Hand making by the CISTECIANS (twice per week), with cow’s milk Abaye de Citeaux, this cheese which looks like to the ROBLOCHON is rather milder than the majority of washed-rind cheeses. The BURGUNDIAN’s richness of the grasses gives to this latter its single savour: A great moment at the time of its tasting.

And for the Cabri Ariègois:

The CABRI cheese is surrounded by a bark of spruce (as the Vacherin of Haut-Doubs) which maintains the structure of the cheese. At the beginning of the affinage process, the cheese impregnates aromatic elements of the bark, to find at the end of its affinage, a balance between goat savour and balsamic expression. So that these savours balance perfectly, it will take at least a month.

This cheese has a mountain aspect with its crust of ochre colour and its soft smell of resin and cave. Its white paste is unctuous and features melting texture with a tender and typified taste.

The website cheese catalog has photos and descriptions of 118 cheeses. It`s a good reference source in itself.

Edited November 16, 2006 by RandyB (log)

[John Talbott]

Yesterday's Figaro had an article on the difference in security rules leaving France vs leaving or within the US. Thierry Vigoureux wrote that one should put all bottles and pate or pate type food goods in checked luggage and that from France 100 ml liquid/etc containers should be put in a 20x20 cm plastic bag (vs 90 ml in a 19x20 cm bag from the US). It also pointed out the diference between soft cheeses (camembert) that should be checked and hard cheese (gruyere) that can go in carry-on; NB chocolate with liqueur inside qualifies as liquid and is thus banned. He does say that there are discussions about making the policy uniform.

[VivreManger]

I just heard that for flights from Paris to NY they are confiscating any carry-on food board not purchased in the airport. Someone arrive from Paris on Tuesday carrying a box of Laduree macarons and was told by French security that extra-airport food is banned from the cabin. Before she had a chance to eat them, they threw them into the rubbish. She would have been allowed to bring what she had purchased within the airport.

Because I have not traveled overseas since these insane regulations were imposed, I have had not first hand experience. Normally I steel myself against airline food by buying and making something edible for the trip. Coming back from Paris I was minimally counting on a baguette and cheese, perhaps some pate -- yes I would have finished the meat before dealing with the US Department of Agriculture. I am aware of all the liquid restrictions, but on domestic flights within the US solid food over the past few months has not been a problem. I had assumed the same practice prevailed on international flights.

The airports I will be using are Logan, Charles de Gaulle, and Frankfurt. Does anyone have recent first-hand experience with current security practices?

Edited February 25, 2007 by VivreManger (log)

[John Talbott]

Does anyone have recent first-hand experience with current security practices?

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February 11th I carried 2 clementines and some cheese from Charles de Gaulle towards Dulles. No problem.

[VivreManger]

I wonder if the original story is of the dog ate my paper variety. My source is the hostess of the traveler from Paris whose macarons were supposedly confiscated. Perhaps she merely forgot to bring them!

[menton1]

Is this heresay or personal experience?

My understanding is that airlines are now encouraging the taking of food into the cabin; with the paucity of good food being served, and the cutting back of quantity served, bringing your own is becoming in vogue.

It doesn't sound like the French, throwing Ladurée in the trash; they would at least save it and split it up amongst the security agents!!

[VivreManger]

I thought our posts crossed since my latest anticipated the problem and explained the original story.