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Important Food Stories of 2005


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Ms. Reichl,

With the year drawing to a close, I would be intrigued to know what you consider the most important food stories of 2005.

On the upside, the fact that so many chefs are now concerning themselves with the way children are eating, especially in schools. It's a huge movement that goes way beyond Alice Waters and Jamie Oliver, and may be the most encouraging sign that things could change in a good way. And the wonderful generosity of the food community after Hurricane Katrina was extremely heartening. And I'm happy that transfats are now being seen as the villains that they are. On top of that, I think the fact that so much serious food news is now starting to be reported on an ongoing basis is truly exciting.

But on the downside, there is so much terrible news to report. For starters this includes the draining of species in the ocean. The fact that 90% of the big fish have been gobbled up and our appetite continues unabated. The overuse of antibiotics in animal farming of all kinds. The horrors of animal farming. The way our use of fertilizer is creating a dead zone in the Gulf of Mexico. The way big companies are now going after gene patents on plants and animals (Monsanto's attempt to patent pigs). The way industrialized food is starting to take over the world. (If you haven't seen the new book "Hungry Planet," I heartily recommend it. It gives an astonishing global view of the way we are eating, and it's not a pretty picture.) The weakening of the organic food laws...

I'm sorry, this is probably not the answer you were looking for. But if you're looking for important stories, there is surely no lack of them.

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Ms. Reichl,

With the year drawing to a close, I would be intrigued to know what you consider the most important food stories of 2005.

On the upside, the fact that so many chefs are now concerning themselves with the way children are eating, especially in schools. It's a huge movement that goes way beyond Alice Waters and Jamie Oliver, and may be the most encouraging sign that things could change in a good way. And the wonderful generosity of the food community after Hurricane Katrina was extremely heartening. And I'm happy that transfats are now being seen as the villains that they are. On top of that, I think the fact that so much serious food news is now starting to be reported on an ongoing basis is truly exciting.

But on the downside, there is so much terrible news to report. For starters this includes the draining of species in the ocean. The fact that 90% of the big fish have been gobbled up and our appetite continues unabated. The overuse of antibiotics in animal farming of all kinds. The horrors of animal farming. The way our use of fertilizer is creating a dead zone in the Gulf of Mexico. The way big companies are now going after gene patents on plants and animals (Monsanto's attempt to patent pigs). The way industrialized food is starting to take over the world. (If you haven't seen the new book "Hungry Planet," I heartily recommend it. It gives an astonishing global view of the way we are eating, and it's not a pretty picture.) The weakening of the organic food laws...

I'm sorry, this is probably not the answer you were looking for. But if you're looking for important stories, there is surely no lack of them.

On the contrary, these are very much the types of answers I was looking for. I feel reassured that you are so cognizant of them. I can assure you, that on this coast, each of these concerns is very near and dear, most especially that of sustainability within the local and global fisheries, which are of vital ethical interest as well as economic importance.

Locally, we found it more than curious that the recent awarding of the Cosmos Prize (the 'Nobel Prize for Environmentalism) in Japan (it carried a cash award of CDN $415,000) to Dr. Daniel Pauly, went largely unreported in the general media. It was he, after all, who originally gained so much attention for this issue by asserting that 90% of the animals in the ocean over six feet long have now vanished.

So my follow-up question is this: Do you think food publications should be taking leadership stances on issues such as sustainability in the global fishery, the DuPont fast food packaging scandal, et al? And, for that matter, on the other issues -- school food et al --that you mention in your response?

Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us this week.

Edited by jamiemaw (log)

from the thinly veneered desk of:

Jamie Maw

Food Editor

Vancouver magazine

www.vancouvermagazine.com

Foodblog: In the Belly of the Feast - Eating BC

"Profumo profondo della mia carne"

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Ms. Reichl,

With the year drawing to a close, I would be intrigued to know what you consider the most important food stories of 2005.

On the upside, the fact that so many chefs are now concerning themselves with the way children are eating, especially in schools. It's a huge movement that goes way beyond Alice Waters and Jamie Oliver, and may be the most encouraging sign that things could change in a good way. And the wonderful generosity of the food community after Hurricane Katrina was extremely heartening. And I'm happy that transfats are now being seen as the villains that they are. On top of that, I think the fact that so much serious food news is now starting to be reported on an ongoing basis is truly exciting.

But on the downside, there is so much terrible news to report. For starters this includes the draining of species in the ocean. The fact that 90% of the big fish have been gobbled up and our appetite continues unabated. The overuse of antibiotics in animal farming of all kinds. The horrors of animal farming. The way our use of fertilizer is creating a dead zone in the Gulf of Mexico. The way big companies are now going after gene patents on plants and animals (Monsanto's attempt to patent pigs). The way industrialized food is starting to take over the world. (If you haven't seen the new book "Hungry Planet," I heartily recommend it. It gives an astonishing global view of the way we are eating, and it's not a pretty picture.) The weakening of the organic food laws...

I'm sorry, this is probably not the answer you were looking for. But if you're looking for important stories, there is surely no lack of them.

On the contrary, these are very much the types of answers I was looking for. I feel reassured that you are so cognizant of them. I can assure you, that on this coast, each of these concerns is very near and dear, most especially that of sustainability within the local and global fisheries, which are of vital ethical interest as well as economic importance.

Locally, we found it more than curious that the recent awarding of the Cosmos Prize (the 'Nobel Prize for Environmentalism) in Japan (it carried a cash award of CDN $415,000) to Dr. Daniel Pauly, went largely unreported in the general media. It was he, after all, who originally gained so much attention for this issue by asserting that 90% of the animals in the ocean over six feet long have now vanished.

So my follow-up question is this: Do you think food publications should be taking leadership stances on issues such as sustainability in the global fishery, the DuPont fast food packaging scandal, et al? And, for that matter, on the other issues -- school food et al --that you mention in your response?

Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us this week.

Absolutely, yes, food publications should be leading the way in the discussion of these issues. When I came to Gourmet I asked the staff here what they thought we should be covering. Everyone was interested in discussing sustainability, where our food comes from, and so forth. But nobody thought that the readers would stand for it.

They were wrong. When we started publishing these articles - on the problems with fish farming, on land trusts, on the Monsanto suit against Percy Schmeiser, transfats, controversies in the bison industry, to name just a few - the response from readers was overwhelmingly positive. Smart people want to know what is going on with the food supply, and it's our obligation to try and keep our readers informed. What's great about this is that we're not preaching to the choir, we actually giving people news they can use. Every time people shop they're voting with their dollars, and the more we inform them about the choices they can make, the more we have the chance to make an impact. It's a responsibility - and an opportunity.

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Thank you for your very encouraging response. We also think the sustainability issue of great importance and have also been impressed by the highly positive response to the articles that we have run . We bracketed same with an eGullet-sanctioned Sustainabilty Luncheon here in Vancouver last summer, which will be repeated in London this February.

Thank you again for your reply, and best wishes in addressing these issues.

Edited by jamiemaw (log)

from the thinly veneered desk of:

Jamie Maw

Food Editor

Vancouver magazine

www.vancouvermagazine.com

Foodblog: In the Belly of the Feast - Eating BC

"Profumo profondo della mia carne"

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But on the downside, there is so much terrible news to report.  For starters this includes the draining of species in the ocean.  The fact that 90% of the big fish have been gobbled up and our appetite continues unabated. 

What do we do about this? Do we stop printing fish recipes in food magazines? I was in a market on Long Island over the weekend where they were featuring Chilean sea bass in a miso marinade, ready for the grill. Clearly somebody had copped the Nobu recipe...and now every trend-driven foodie in Bellmore is going to be serving Chilean sea bass.

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But on the downside, there is so much terrible news to report.  For starters this includes the draining of species in the ocean.  The fact that 90% of the big fish have been gobbled up and our appetite continues unabated.  

What do we do about this? Do we stop printing fish recipes in food magazines? I was in a market on Long Island over the weekend where they were featuring Chilean sea bass in a miso marinade, ready for the grill. Clearly somebody had copped the Nobu recipe...and now every trend-driven foodie in Bellmore is going to be serving Chilean sea bass.

We certainly stop printing fish recipes for Chilean sea bass (and other endangered or extirpated species) in food magazines, and while we're at it, recommend sustainable alternatives. What action (see the link in my post that precedes yours) did you take with the owner of the Long Island market?

from the thinly veneered desk of:

Jamie Maw

Food Editor

Vancouver magazine

www.vancouvermagazine.com

Foodblog: In the Belly of the Feast - Eating BC

"Profumo profondo della mia carne"

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What action (see the link in my post that precedes yours)  did you take with the owner of the Long Island market?

Nothing--they were very large Italian men. My fear was that I would end up in the fish case next to the scungilli. "WWRRD?"

Edited by WHS (log)
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Ms Reichl is certainly practicing what she is preaching. There is a nice article in the latest issue of Gourmet about high end restaurants that are looking at sustainability issues when composing their menus. Chilean sea bass for one is off the menus of restaurants like Le Bernardin. Kudos to them. It is getting to be very difficult being a lover of seafood. It must be even moreso to be a seafood restaurant with a conscience.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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What action (see the link in my post that precedes yours)  did you take with the owner of the Long Island market?

Nothing--they were very large Italian men. My fear was that I would end up in the fish case next to the scungilli. "WWRRD?"

Just say no?

from the thinly veneered desk of:

Jamie Maw

Food Editor

Vancouver magazine

www.vancouvermagazine.com

Foodblog: In the Belly of the Feast - Eating BC

"Profumo profondo della mia carne"

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