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Michelin Guide to New York est arrivé!


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I'm very happy and gratified that Michelin published this book. It's the best proof yet that the star system is truly a worthless pile of doo-doo bung.

Rich Schulhoff

Opinions are like friends, everyone has some but what matters is how you respect them!

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I can't critique their 2- and 3-star choices. I've dined at two of the former (Bouley & Danube) and none of the latter. I will say that I can far more easily see some of the current 1-stars being promoted to two, than any of the 2-stars being promoted to 3. The peculiar fact that there are an equal number of 2- and 3-star places is almost certainly not permanent.

I think I can comment on the 1-stars, since I've been to about half of them. I agree with Nathan that if we each made a list of our own 31 "special" places in NYC, there'd be a considerable amount of overlap with this list. Like it or not, I don't think they drew Saul out of a hat. A considerable amount of thought must have gone into awarding that star.

If we understand the limitations, I think we can all comment and sometimes even on the abstract concepts involved without having eaten at the restaurants. That said, I guess I've eaten at all of the two and three star restaurants with the exception of Masa, but I haven't eaten at most of them in the last year, so the Michelin guys have later experience even if they don't have a superior palate. Early this year I noted that a meal at one of the three stars got off on a rocking start, but that the composed meat, fish and salad dishes that followed didn't hold a candle to similar dishes on a long tasting menu at one of the two star places. Again, although I've only had a few meals (2 or 3?) at one of the other three stars, I found inconsistency and severe service errors. A receptionist was rude to me and to our party which inclulded an infirm gentleman celebrating his birthday. I was a bit embarrassed to have participated in recommending the restaurant to his wife, but as it wasn't my first choice, I didn't feel too bad. A waiter and captain argued loudly behind my seat and I was aware of a waiter in noticeable need of a bath, but it was years ago and hopefully that's been worked out even if it then tempered the place of the restaurant on my short list of restaurants I can only afford once in a while. As much as I don't agree with the list, the Michelin guys have the advantage of position. Nevertheless I may have more to say about the restaurants I know from recent experience when I've thought more about my meals. The problem with the guide is not that it's ratings are wrong, it's just that they are no more than the ratings of five people whose standards and prejudices are not necessarily in step with mine, yours or the next guys. They are not the singular opinion of some one person such as the NY times critic, nor are they the collective average of an unqualified group such as it published by the Zagats, but they are not necessarily much more reliable than either. There is simply bno reason to believe they are the five most qualified people to advise me on where to eat, or that their collective wisdom is superior to any of their individual opinions. As a panel, they suffer a few of the Zagat weaknesses.

I've been in a number of non-luxe Michelin one star restaurants in France and some of them were rather simple places. Even in Paris, some could have been described as little more than neighborhood places and sometimes not the most appealing looking place on the block. In Michelin's defense, I would note that even in France the one star listing is a hodgepodge group. (A left handed defense, I will admit.)

That actually seems to me a pretty reasonable defense. Michelin was introducing an existing system to New York, not inventing a new system.

A reasonable defense of why they did it here, but not necessarily of the system. It's not a bad system, but it's not understood. In fact, it's widely misunderstood and thus not an effective system.

It's been my experience when traveling in France that innovative cooking may be a faster way to gain a Michelin star than simply preparing classic cuisine.

On the Q&A that Andy Lynes pointed to, Michelin's UK editor said that a restaurant can earn one star by preparing a traditional cuisine extremely well, but that two and three stars require originality (in addition to other things).

Andy and I are not in disagreement here. Not that I don't enjoy a good disagreement, but it's true that good old fashioned cooking can earn a star and I suspect good old fashioned French cooking will earn a star faster in the Uk than in France. That originality is required for two or more stars doesn't negate the fact that it may be helpful in getting the first star either. For all that, I do suspect than in the UK an allegiance to old French is helpful, but that it's less necessary in France itself.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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I'm very happy and gratified that Michelin published this book. It's the best proof yet that the star system is truly a worthless pile of doo-doo bung.

Likewise, I find your post gratifying. It's proof of the relative strength of this medium.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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I'm very happy and gratified that Michelin published this book. It's the best proof yet that the star system is truly a worthless pile of doo-doo bung.

Likewise, I find your post gratifying. It's proof of the relative strength of this medium.

I wholeheartedly agree.

Rich Schulhoff

Opinions are like friends, everyone has some but what matters is how you respect them!

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Most of the time (there are rare exceptions), companies should stick with what they do best. In Michelin's case, they do good tires. However, they don't do food well. Rubber and food is a lethal combination - it should never be mixed.

Rich Schulhoff

Opinions are like friends, everyone has some but what matters is how you respect them!

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Michelin sees its guides as travel related. In Spain one of the major gastronomic guides is published by Campsa, an automobile fuel (gas, in the U.S.) company. It awards "soles" or "suns" rather than stars, but then again the sun is just a local star. At one time Campsa used fuel pumps to rate the various restaurants listed. Not an ideal image in my mind although it conjurs up the old roadside signs of my youth that read "EAT HERE, GET GAS." Come to think of it, Mobil prides itself on its travel guides to hotels and restaurants. The original Michelin guide back in 1900 was very much a guide for the chauffer on the road with ads for autombiles and mechanics as well as lots of information on tires. There was even a chapter on law pertaining to driving. Emphasis on restaurants came much later. in the beginning they were simply seen as adjunts to hotels. One of the most important functions of the current guide for France is the inclusion of maps for the centers of most cities showing one way streets as well as zones restricted to pedestrians. I suspect those maps were why the US military reprinted the most recent edition after the liberation of France. Anyway, Michelin got into the restaurant guide business pretty much by popular demand and set the pattern for other motor related guides. I might include the AAA guide.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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Most of the time (there are rare exceptions), companies should stick with what they do best. In Michelin's case, they do good tires. However, they don't do food well. Rubber and food is a lethal combination - it should never be mixed.

To classify is human. We will no sooner stop classifying things than we will stop eating.

If you don't think Michelin's classifications are sound, then whose are? If you think that everybody's are wrong, that's fair enough, but rather irrelevant. Human beings are going to classify. It's what we do.

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. . . . 

2)  The difference in food between a 1 star and a 2 star is not that far off.  What really makes the difference is the ambiance.  I was told that the first star is awarded almost solely on food, the second on the decor and ambiance and the third is has to do with the wine list.  Now I don't know how true this really is, but it does seem to make some sense.  Then again, I was in Italy and they really don't like the French, so who knows?  But, one of the best restaurants in Italy, Enoteca Pinchiorri, has a French chef and it's food is very much based in France.  And it is three stars. 

3)  I was also told that most of the restaurants with two and three stars devote more time and energy to service and as such are not allowed to do more than 80 or so covers a night. 

Again, this is all just speculation and things that I've heard.  But I think some of it is very interesting. 

Harlan

I've already posted that I believe the big gap is between one star and above and that the difference between the best two star and the least deserving three star is negligible at best and probably indiscernible. I think ambience and wine lists are important, but I'd sincerely doubt that each is related to a specific star level. Certainly there are restaurants that have risen without changing the ambience. I might place some faith in the idea that size matters. I suspect Daniel suffered simply because of the number of covers they do in a night and would suffer in Michelin's opinion no matter how consistent the food may be. Just speculation on my part, but it's worth noting that I agree with the idea that the best experience at Daniel is the most expensive tasting menu. For us, it beat out Per Se at about the same price. Perhaps Daniel gets a special mention for democratic service offering both two and three star experiences at appropriate prices and Michelin is afraid of sending the erroneous signal that one can match the top Per Se experience at Daniel for half the price, or maybe they are just offended at seeing tables reset. In some ways, Daniel Boulud the French chef, has the most original American restaurant in the 2 and 3 star group. Well, I'm an old fan of Daniel's and had the good fortune of having the original restaurant open just after I'd put enough money in my daughter's account to pay for her college tuition and found myself with pocket money for the first time in several years.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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For those who are interested, here is the complete list of NYC Michelin restaurants:

Manhattan

66

202 Restaurant

21 Club

44 & X Hell's Kitchen

5 Ninth

71 Clinton Fresh Food

Abboccato

Acappella

Acqua Pazza

Aix

Aki

Alain Ducasse [Essex House] -- *** -- 5 couverts red

Alamo

Alcala

Aleo

Alto

AMA

Amuse

Annisa -- * -- 2 couverts black

AOC Bedford

Apizz

Aquagrill

Aquavit

Aroma Kitchen & Wine Bar

Artie's Deli

Artisanal

Asia De Cuba

Asiate

Atlantic Grill

August

Aureole -- * -- 4 couverts black

Avra Estiatorio

Babbo -- * -- 3 couverts black

Balthazar

Banjara

Bar Americian

Bar Masa

Barbetta

Basta Pasta

Bayard's

Bayou

Beacon

Becco

Bellini

Ben Benson's

Beppe

Beyoglu

Bice

Biltmore Room

Bistro 60

Bistro Cassis

Bistro du Vent

BLT Fish -- * -- 3 couverts black

BLT Prime

BLT Steak

Blue Fin [W Hotel]

Blue Hill

Blue Ribbon

Blue Ribbon Bakery

Blue Ribbon Sushi

Blue Water Grill

Boathouse Central Park

Bobby Van' s Steakhouse

Boi

Bolo

Bombay Talkie

Bond Street

Bottega Del Vino

Bouley -- ** -- 4 couverts black

Brasserie

Brasserie 81/2

Bread Tribeca

Bricco

Bridge Café

Bruno

Bryant Park Grill

Bull and Bear [Waldorf Astoria Hotel]

Cabana

Café Boulud -- * -- 3 couverts black

Café Centro

Café de Bruxelles

Café Gray -- * -- 3 couverts red

Café Mogador

Café Sabarsky

Calle Ocho

Canaletto

Candle Café

Capsouto Frères

Casa La Femme North

Casa Mono

Caviar & Banana

Cellini

Cendrillon

Centolire

Cesca

Chanterelle

Chelsea Bistro

China Grill

Cho Dang Gol

Chubo

Cipriani Dolci

Circus

Cité

Compass

Craft -- * -- 3 couverts black

Craftbar

Crispo

Cru -- * -- 4 couverts black

Cube 63

Da Antonio

Da Giacomo

Da Silvano

Da Umberto

Daniel -- ** -- 5 couverts red

Danube -- ** -- 3 couverts red

Davidburke & Donatella

Dawat

DB Bistro Moderne

Del Frisco's

Della Rovere

Devi

Dim Sum Go Go

Diwan

Django

Donguri

Dos Caminos

Downtown Cipriani

Dylan Prime

El Cid

El Faro

Eleven Madison Park

EN Japanese Brasserie

ESCA

Estiatorio Milos

Etats-Unis -- * -- 1 couvert black

Etcetera Etcetera

Extra Virgin

Felidia

Fiamma Osteria -- * -- 3 couverts black

Fig & Olive

Firebird

Five Points

Fives

Fleur de Sel -- * -- 2 couverts black

Flor's Kitchen

Four Seasons

Frankie and Johnnie's

Frederick's Madison

Fresco by Scotto

fresh

Fuleen Seafood

Gabriel's

Gallagher's

Gari

Gascogne

Gavroche

Geisha

Giambelli 50th

Gigino at Wagner Park

Gigino Trattoria

Giorgione

Giovanni

Gnocco

Gobo

Golden Unicorn

Good Enough to Eat

Gotham Bar and Grill -- * -- 3 couverts black

Gramercy Tavern -- * -- 3 couverts black

Grand Central Oyster Bar

Grand Sichuan Eastern

Great N. Y. Noodletown

Hangawi

Harlem Grill

Hasaki

Hearth

HEDEH

Hell's Kitchen

Home

Honmura An

I Coppi

I Trulli

IAN

Ichiro

Ida Mae

Il Buco

Il Cantinori

Il Cortile

Il Menestrello

Il Monello

Il Mulino

Il Nido

Il Palazzo

Il Riccio

Il Tinello

Inagiku

Inoteca

Iron Sushi

Isabella's

Ithaka

Itzocan

Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar

Jane

Jarnac

Jean Claude

Jean-Georges -- *** -- 4 couverts black

Jean-Luc

Jewel Bako -- * -- 1 couvert red

Jewel Bako Makimono

Joe Allen

JoJo -- * -- 2 couverts black

Josephs Citarella

Jubilee

Kai

Keens Steakhouse

Khyber Grill

Kings' Carriage House

Kirara

Kitchen 22

Kitchen 82

Kittichai [60Thompson Hotel]

Koi

Koi

Komegashi

Kurumazushi

La Goulue -- * -- 2 couverts black

La Grenouille

La Mangeoire

La Masseria

La Paella

L'Absinthe

Lan

Land Thai Kitchen

Landmarc

Lavagna

LCB Brasserie

Le Bernardin -- *** -- 5 couverts black

Le Bilboquet

Le Colonial

Le Gigot

Le Perigord

Le Tableau

Le Zie 2000

Le Zinc

L'Ecole

Lenox Room

Les Halles

Les Halles Downtown

Lever House -- * -- 3 couverts black

L'Impero

Lo Scalco -- * -- 3 couverts black

Luca

Lucy

Lupa

Lure Fishbar

Lusardi's

Macelleria

Magnifico

Maloney & Porcelli

Mamlouk

Mandarin Court

March -- * -- 3 couverts black

Markjoseph Steakhouse

Mark's

Marseille

Mary's Fish Camp

MAS

Masa -- ** -- 2 couverts black

Matsuri

Maz Mezcal

Megu

Mercer Kitchen [Mercer Hotel]

Mesa Grill

Metrazur

Mexicana Mamma

Mezzaluna

Mezzogiorno

Michael Jordan's

Michael's

Molyvos

Momofuku Noodle Bar

Montrachet

Morton's

Mosto

Mr. Chow

Nadaman Hakubai

Nam

Nanni

Nebraska Beef

Nello

NEO Sushi

New Leaf Café

New Wonton Garden

Nice Matin

Nice Restaurant

Nick & Stef's Steakhouse

Nick's

Nicole's

Nippon

Nobu -- * 2 -- couverts black

North Square

Nyonya

O Mai

Ocean Grill

Oceana -- * -- 3 couverts black

Odeon

Old Homestead

Olives

One if by land, two if by sea

Ono

Oriental Garden

Orsay

Orso

Osteria Al Doge

Osteria Del Circo

Osteria Laguna

Otto

Ouest

P.J. Clarke's

Palm

Palma

Pampano

Paola's

Paradou

Park Avenue Café

Park Bistro

Park Terrace Bistro

Pastis

Payard

Pearl Oyster Bar

Peasant

Peking Duck House

Pellegrino's

Pepolino

Per Se -- *** -- 5 couverts red

Periyali

Persepolis

Petrosino

Petrossian

Phoenix Garden

Picasso

Piccolo Angolo

Picholine -- * -- 3 couverts black

Pietro's

Ping's Seafood

Pipa

Place, The

Po

Pongal

Pongsri Thai

Porcupine

Post House

Prune

Public

Pure Food and Wine

Quatorze Bis

Raffaele

Raoul's

Red Cat

Remi

Rene Pujol

Riingo

Rocking Horse

Rosa Mexicano

Rothmann's

Roy's New York

Sachiko's on Clinton

Salt

San Domenico NY

San Pietro

Sapa

Sapphire

Sarabeth's

Sardi's

Savore

Savoy

Scaletta

Scalini Fedeli -- * -- 3 couverts black

Schiller's Liquor Bar

Second Avenue Deli

SEO

Sette Mezzo

Sevilla

Shaan of India

Shaburi

Shaffer City

Shanghai Pavilion

Shun Lee Palace

Siam Inn

Silverleaf Tavern

Smith & Wollensky

Snack

Soba Ya

Solo

Sparks Steak House

Spice Market

Spigolo

Spotted Pig -- * -- 1 couvert black

Stanton Social

Strip House

Suba

Suenos

Sugiyama

Sunrise 27

Surya

Sushi Ann

Sushi of Gari

Sushi Seki

Sushi Yasuda

Sushi Zen

Sushiden

Sushiya

Sweet-n-Tart Restaurant

Tabla

Table XII

Tamarind

Tao

Taormina

Taste

Tasting Room

Teodora

Thaiso'n

Thalia

The Capital Grille

The Harrison

The Manhattan Ocean Club

The Mermaid Inn

The Modern -- * -- 3 couverts black

The Sea Grill

The Steakhouse at Monkey Bar

Tocqueville

Tomoe Sushi

Town

Trata Estiatorio

Trattoria Dell' Arte

Triangolo

Tribeca Grill

Trio

Triomphe

Tropica

Turkish Kitchen

Tuscan Square

Union Square Café

V Steakhouse

Va Tutto

Vatan

Vento

Veritas -- * -- 2 couverts black

ViceVersa

Vivolvo

Vong -- * 2 -- couverts black

Wallsé -- * -- 2 couverts black

Water Club

WD-50 -- * -- 2 couverts black

Wolfgang's Steakhouse

Wondee Siam II

Woo Lae Oak

Xing

Yama

Yangpyung Seoul

Zarela

Zebu Grill

Zoë

Zutto

Brooklyn

Al Di La

Applewood

Areo

Banania Café

Blue Ribbon Sushi

Chestnut

DuMont

Elia

Five Front

Garden Café

Henry's End

Locanda Vini & Olii

Noodle Pudding

Osaka

Pearl Room

Peter Luger -- * -- 1 couvert black

Queen

Quercy

River Café

Saul -- * -- 2 couverts black

Savoia

Sea

Stone Park Café

The Grocery

Tuscany Grill

Bronx

Riverdale Garden

Roberto's Restaurant

Queens

718 Restaurant

Bann Thai

Brick Café

Jackson Diner

KumGanSan

Malagueta

Piccola Venezia

Sapori D'Ischia

Sripraphai

Taverna Kyclades

Tournesol

Trattoria L'Incontro

Water's Edge

Staten Island

Aesop's Tables

American Grill

Carol's Café

The Parsonage

--

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Most of the time (there are rare exceptions), companies should stick with what they do best. In Michelin's case, they do good tires. However, they don't do food well. Rubber and food is a lethal combination - it should never be mixed.

To classify is human. We will no sooner stop classifying things than we will stop eating.

If you don't think Michelin's classifications are sound, then whose are? If you think that everybody's are wrong, that's fair enough, but rather irrelevant. Human beings are going to classify. It's what we do.

That's why baseball and horse racing are the two greatest games on earth - no classification. You either put up the numbers or go home.

On the restaurant front, I have long been an advocate of the no-star system. It just leads to endless, meaningless debates like this. Write a review, say what impresses you, what doesn't, put your pen away, turn out the lights and go home for the evening. Stars, spoons, forks, knives, touches, plates, chicken livers or anything lese people use to rate restaurants mean nothing. Chefs live and die for them, people endlessly search for them. In the end, just enjoy the food, drink the wine, have fun and make sure you pay the bill.

Just as an aside, how could anyone take seriously any list of the top forty or so restaurants in NYC that doesn't include the Tasting Room? Nothing else needs to be said.

Rich Schulhoff

Opinions are like friends, everyone has some but what matters is how you respect them!

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Everyone is also getting their response to the announcements out.

From Per Se:

"I am deeply honored to receive this distinction from the Michelin Guide -- a truly legendary recognition," said chef Thomas Keller. "I established Per Se in the spirit of The French Laundry, we strive to give our guests the finest dining experience and I am so blessed to work with an incredibly talented and dedicated team.  I share this acknowledgement with Laura Cunningham, who has been with me since the inception of The French Laundry and has supervised the development of per se, chef de cuisine Jonathan Benno, director of operations Eric Lilavois and the entire staff of all of our restaurants."

From ADNY:

Alain Ducasse at the Essex House has been honored with three stars by the Michelin Guide New York City 2006 making Alain Ducasse the only chef ever to have three restaurants (the celebrated Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée, Paris, and Louis XV in Monaco are the other two) with three stars each from the prestigious guide. . . .  In Alain Ducasse's eyes every guest is a 'star' and he insists on treating each and everyone as such. No matter what day of the week, what country, he believes there is only one criterion for success – quality. To maintain this level of excellence, Alain Ducasse relies heavily on strong teams in whom he has confidence; he gives the tempo and inspires the energy to continue his incessant quest for perfection. Tony Esnault, 34, Executive Chef, has worked with Alain Ducasse for three years in Monaco and has known, traveled and shared the same passionate exploration of cuisine and hospitality for over seven years.  Yannis Stanisiere is the restaurant manager and carefully looks after the guests while Andre Compeyre, Chef Sommelier, is responsible for selecting the greatest international wines.

--

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Well, I can assure you, they got three out of four wrong on Staten Island.

Rich Schulhoff

Opinions are like friends, everyone has some but what matters is how you respect them!

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It would appear that Jean Georges is considered the least of the three stars as it is the only one to have fewer than 5 couverts black.

Where are the pizza places other than Otto?

Apparently a restaurant has to request inclusion. This is taken from the the job desxcription of an inspector from the Michelin recruiting ad linked to above:

Review all requests for inclusion in the Guide

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

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Well, I can assure you, they got three out of four wrong on Staten Island.

What do you mean?

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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From the NY Times article:

"They came to Jean Georges eight times," Mr. Vongerichten said of the inspectors, "and I was in the kitchen six of them. Then they spent two hours in the back of the house, looking into the refrigerators and inspecting our dinnerware."

I was surprised to read this, as I was under the understanding that inspectors visit restaurants anonymously, and only care about "what's on the plate". I was also surprised to read that he was in the kitchen 6 of 8 times. Of all the times I have been there, I have not seen them there ONCE. So it sounds to me like they not only were not anonymous, but had advance notice.

Am I missing something?

Arley Sasson

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From the NY Times article:
"They came to Jean Georges eight times," Mr. Vongerichten said of the inspectors, "and I was in the kitchen six of them. Then they spent two hours in the back of the house, looking into the refrigerators and inspecting our dinnerware."

I was surprised to read this, as I was under the understanding that inspectors visit restaurants anonymously, and only care about "what's on the plate". I was also surprised to read that he was in the kitchen 6 of 8 times. Of all the times I have been there, I have not seen them there ONCE. So it sounds to me like they not only were not anonymous, but had advance notice.

Am I missing something?

I have seen J-G there two out of my last three visits and he may well have been there the other time. Why are you certain he wasn't around?

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That's why baseball and horse racing are the two greatest games on earth - no classification. You either put up the numbers or go home.

Very funny you should say that. No sport has more ways of breaking down and classifying things than baseball. Baseball, of course, breaks down its classifications to numbers. So does Michelin (so-many stars, so-many knives and forks). Baseball gives out highly subjective awards (MVP, Cy Young, player of the month, rookie of the year, selection to the All-Star Team); so does Michelin.

I can assure you, they got three out of four wrong on Staten Island.
...and...
Just as an aside, how could anyone take seriously any list of the top forty or so restaurants in NYC that doesn't include the Tasting Room?

Those two comments suggest that you, too, are classifying restaurants. Otherwise, on what basis could they be right or wrong?

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From the NY Times article:
"They came to Jean Georges eight times," Mr. Vongerichten said of the inspectors, "and I was in the kitchen six of them. Then they spent two hours in the back of the house, looking into the refrigerators and inspecting our dinnerware."

I was surprised to read this, as I was under the understanding that inspectors visit restaurants anonymously, and only care about "what's on the plate". I was also surprised to read that he was in the kitchen 6 of 8 times. Of all the times I have been there, I have not seen them there ONCE. So it sounds to me like they not only were not anonymous, but had advance notice.

Am I missing something?

I have seen J-G there two out of my last three visits and he may well have been there the other time. Why are you certain he wasn't around?

I have been there four times. I didn't see him in the kitchen the first time. The other three times I asked.

Arley Sasson

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I have been there four times. I didn't see him in the kitchen the first time. The other three times I asked.

Maybe he is only "there" for food critics, Michelin inspectors and VIP's.:raz: I usually spot him peering into the dining room to check on a table full of VIP's.

It would be interesting if it turns out that he beat out Boulud because he just happened to be in JG on six out of eight visits. I was under the impression that Daniel spent more time in his restaurant then Jeans-Georges spends in his.

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On the issue of the Michelin inspectors making themselves known: my understanding, from reading the tame "tell-all" book written by an inspector a while ago, is that all dining is done anonymously and that when they're all done with their visits one of them makes himself (rarely herself) known and does indeed ask questions and poke around to make sure the place is clean and tidy.

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It would appear that Jean Georges is considered the least of the three stars as it is the only one to have fewer than 5 couverts black.

Where are the pizza  places other than Otto?

Apparently a restaurant has to request inclusion. This is taken from the the job desxcription of an inspector from the Michelin recruiting ad linked to above:

Review all requests for inclusion in the Guide

Those couverts, crossed forks and spoons if they're using the same icons as all over the rest of the world, signify comfort and luxury. I read them to know whether to consider wearing a tie, for instance. So in a sense you may be correct if you assume less luxury means a lesser restaurant, but the difference in forks and spoons doesn't signify a lesser food quality.

As for requests to be included, I imagine Michelin gets a lot of those and they come from new restaurants and restaurants that were excluded the previous year, but a restaurant doesn't have to request inclusion to be considered. In fact, some restaurants have asked to be excluded for one reason or another. Diners also write to Michelin sugggesting a local restaurant be included. Of course I imagine they get some anonymous requests from friends and relatives of the chef.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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On the issue of the Michelin inspectors making themselves known: my understanding, from reading the tame "tell-all" book written by an inspector a while ago, is that all dining is done anonymously and that when they're all done with their visits one of them makes himself (rarely herself) known and does indeed ask questions and  poke around to make sure the place is clean and tidy.

When they visited my restaurant of employ over the winter, we knew they were coming days in advance. I'm not saying this is always the case, but people know people, especially in NY.

Drink maker, heart taker!

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Thanks for the complete list of restaurants. I find some of the listings very surprising, if not perhaps bizarre.

But where are the bibs gourmands?

Michael aka "Pan"

 

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As I was doing this week's LA Times Food Section Digest, I was reading the article, Michelin unveils NYC stars / by Regina Schrambling.

NB Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration.

Here are some quotes:

Jean-Georges Vongerichten

"tomorrow the hard work begins because a lot of people have high expectations."

Daniel Boulud

"I'm not an egomaniac. I'm not going to jump off a building."

Alain Ducasse

"I'm not here enough to say I earned it entirely on my own".
Edited by rjwong (log)

Russell J. Wong aka "rjwong"

Food and I, we go way back ...

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