Diva Review

[butter]

This a.m. at work someone clipped out a review on Diva at the Metropolitan Hotel. I think it was from the Province. We were all discussing whether it was fair or not as not one nice comment was made. Your thoughts?

[jamiemaw]

It was Alexandra Gill in the Globe and Mail but you'll need to register.

Here are a few sample lines:

"Oh, how the mighty have fallen."

"It really is very bad, isn't it?" says Fiona Morrow, co-editor of the upcoming Time Out guide to Vancouver, as we push off our half-eaten plates, puckering at the new chef's discordant clash of flavours."

"Noble's down-market shift sheds a bit of light on Diva's current problems. Ten years ago, when Vancouver was a culinary backwater, the city's first exhibition kitchen certainly stood out. But now, with some of the city's best chefs setting lofty new standards at entry-level establishments, it's seems absurd that some high-end restaurants are still coasting on their glory days."

"'The most disgusting combination I ever ate in my life,' she declares."

I'll be interested to see sharp-eyed members' remarks.

Edited October 15, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[nwyles]

I saw this article early this morning.

I know it is human nature to sometimes take a perverse pleasure from something like this but I really was just left wondering one thing :

What was the point ?

Diva has fallen below the radar in the last few years with changes in chefs and management and has suffered perhaps a fall from grace.

That certainly is not lost on anyone so what was the point in drawing attention to it. It was better left unsaid.

It is not like they are new or reinventing themselves, putting themselves on a pedestal for people to take pot shots at. It just seemed sad to draw attention to someone's suffering. It is not like they were being cock 'o the walk, new beach front property and needed to be taken down a peg or three. They were quietly existing, servicing their hotel guests and that was all.

There are better topics to write about. Are there not ?

Edited October 15, 2005 by nwyles (log)

[kontemporary]

I have never been to Diva for dinner, but have went there for dessert a couple of times in the past. Although the desserts I had were enjoyable, I couldn't help but think of the 10.50 price for the dish where it seems the sen5es bakery could be offering a better deal (at the same quality level). The dessert plates themselves seemed to take more of an artistic approach than decadent one; in all cases they were beautifully plated, but the portions were miniscule. If portion sizes are reduced, than flavour and quality should make up for it - in the cases where I have ended nights at Diva, they weren't. This isn't to say they weren't enjoyable.. but it should certainly last longer than 3 jabs of a fork.

EDIT: Oh.. and caught this line from the article: "Paying by debit isn't so easily done, I discover, when the front-desk clerk refuses to hand over the itemized bill."

Diva doesn't take debit, which may be why they refused to hand over the bill - I had to learn the difficult way.

Edited October 15, 2005 by rêvasser (log)

[Andrew Morrison]

A rather wretched welcoming for Annette, but a meal's a meal - chacun son gout and all that.

Hell, if she walked in (and I was a MOD) I'd buy her a mink, say a prayer, polish my harikari blade and carpet her swathe with dalias and tears.

Who's next?

[*Deborah*]

I haven't eaten there since Dine Out earlier this year, but I had a delicious dinner and good service and some fairly delicious wine.

*shrugs*

[prasantrin]

I saw this article early this morning.

I know it is human nature to sometimes take a perverse pleasure from something like this but I really was just left wondering one thing :

What was the point ?

Diva has fallen below the radar in the last few years with changes in chefs and management and has suffered perhaps a fall from grace.

That certainly is not lost on anyone so what was the point in drawing attention to it. It was better left unsaid.

←

But there are those who first heard of Diva when it was in its prime, and who did not know of its fall from grace. Should I have not read the review, I probably would have dined at Diva the next time I visited Vancouver. If nothing else, this thread saved me money, and for me, that's reason enough to have a thread like this. I took no pleasure from the review, by the way.

[jamiemaw]

I didn't think that Diva had fallen at all. In fact Chris Mills' (now Joey's Global development chef), Andrew Springett (Wickaninnish Inn) and Scott Baechler's (Fairmont Dubai) cooking was every bit as competent (and consistent) as their mentor's. I thought that Baechler acquited himself particularly well at a Beard dinner in Toronto during his reign.

I've long thought that Diva was a strong testament to Henry Wu's commitment to a solid F & B program. Mathew Opferkuch and Jeremy Roncoroni assembled a strong cellar, including many hard-to-find Cascadians. Alain Léger was easily the best off-site (catering) chef in the city. Thomas is Thomas. And Diva's weekend breakfasts, with a duvet of good newspapers, are particularly civilized, the sablefish hash with scallion oil and brilliant eggs justifiably legendary.

Sharp-eyed readers may have other remarks to make.

Edited October 15, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[Sam Salmon]

I know it is human nature to sometimes take a perverse pleasure from something like this but I really was just left wondering one thing :

What was the point ?

←

Well I have no horse in this race but I do know that Bad News Sells!

Newspapers are struggling with competition from 'New Media Sources' aka the net so they've decided to 'address the problem directly' as it were

[Megan Blocker]

I saw this article early this morning.

I know it is human nature to sometimes take a perverse pleasure from something like this but I really was just left wondering one thing...there are better topics to write about. Are there not ?

←

Never underestimate the power of schadenfreude, my friend.

[*Deborah*]

I looked this up to refresh my memory, and while nobody gave us freebies and my palate is doubtless not as sophisticated (and not quite as...snappy) as Ms. Gill's and her companion's, and we paid by credit card and thus had no issues with the debit availability, I did seem to be fairly happy with my dinner:

Well, this is apt to be a bit hazy, all things considered.

We arrived about two minutes early for our 8:30 reso, and the table setup was just being finished.

Given my usual preference for red, I decided to go with 500 ml of the Edge Cabernet Sauvignon (someone mentioned it on here, and it seemed like a good idea at the time...this morning, my head isn't so sure! ) My companions had Perrin Cotes-du-Rhone by the glass. My wine was yummier than their wine and we were lucky enough to get fresh bottles opened. THat's really nice stuff, although it fades after an hour or two, bouquet-wise: left with a trace of licorice after all the lovely flavours that it began with. (My bill for one dinner and wine was equal to their bill for two dinners and two glasses, too, but that's about usual for me )

I began with the Leek and Potato Soup with Nutmeg Mousse, and it was very nice, veloute, completely smooth with a little circle of potatoes in the middle with the nutmeg mousse on top, nice presentation. One of my friends had the salad, and was very happy with it, particularly the beets.

For main course, I had the salmon with citrus on a bed of white beans, it was beautifully prepared, the salmon skin was all crispy, and the fish still a bit rare within, and very tasty. My friend who had the short ribs had the winner, though: braised, falling off the bone, she only used a fork...on a bed of lentils, simply delicious.

For dessert two of us had the chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream...the warm chocolate cake was so good I'm surprised they didn't arrest me...it was a warm molten chocolate cake, but so light yet chocolatey, such a nice buttery taste, just fabulous. I can recommend going to Diva for dessert any day. My other friend had the cheesecake, which she liked, but I'm afraid I was so distracted by my cake that I didn't pay that much attention!

Service was fine if not up to West (somehow I doubt how many times I will witness that level of service ever again!) and since we were eating so late, staying over any allotted time was not an issue; our only issue was weaving our way home at the end of the night.

←

Of course that was 10 months ago, and maybe we just got lucky.

[nwyles]

Jamie, no one can argue about the committment the Henry Wu has made to the food scene in this city with his support of chefs going to International competitions, especially the Boucuse D'Or. He has been able to bring International attention to our Culinary scene

I was not being mean-spirited about it at all. I really was just wondering why Diva was the focus of an Alex Gill Review. It is the shoulder season, they are not focusing on showcasing a chef for an upcoming competition. They are just bumping along doing their thing, minding their own business. It just seemed an odd choice.

[jamiemaw]

Jamie, no one can argue about the committment the Henry Wu has made to the food scene in this city with his support of chefs going to International competitions, especially the Boucuse D'Or. He has been able to bring International attention to our Culinary scene

I was not being mean-spirited about it at all. I really was just wondering why Diva was the focus of an Alex Gill Review. It is the shoulder season, they are not focusing on showcasing a chef for an upcoming competition. They are just bumping along doing their thing, minding their own business. It just seemed an odd choice.

←

Neil, I didn't think you mean-spirited at all. Quite the contrary in fact. But because Michael Noble has achieved near-mythical status for his skill and mentoring, the perception might still be out there that the kitchen slipped after his departure. Not so, and I was merely pointing this out.

I've used Diva for noon hour business (especially after Chartwell closed for lunch), for years, interchanging it with Bacchus and a couple of downtown restaurants. I've always found it top drawer and a good place for conversation, with skilled but unobtrusive service. And I've also found their wine dinners terrific. Want real value though? Go for a weekend breakfast, around the time civilians go elsewhere for brunch, an aberration of the chattering classes.

Edited October 15, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[kurtisk]

I'm personally curious as to Jamie's (twice mentioned) remark about what "sharp-eyed readers" may have noticed. Both cryptic and intriguing...

k.

PS- Also fascinating is the bottom of this page, not only are eGulleters flocking to this thread, but the lurkers seem to multiplying in spades. I don't think this is the last we've heard of this...

Edited October 15, 2005 by kurtisk (log)

[nwyles]

I'm personally curious as to Jamie's (twice mentioned) remark about what "sharp-eyed readers" may have noticed.  Both cryptic and intriguing...

k.

←

I have been waiting for a little nudge in the right direction on that one myself.

[jamiemaw]

I'm personally curious as to Jamie's (twice mentioned) remark about what "sharp-eyed readers" may have noticed.  Both cryptic and intriguing...

k.

←

I have been waiting for a little nudge in the right direction on that one myself.

←

Local culinary anthropologists will find the clues in Post#2, upthread.

[SBonner]

As an avid Time out reader and very occasional reviewer (when in the U.K. almost a decade ago) I'm not all together impressed by Time out reviews. Remember their average reader is a British punter who primarily resides in the U.K. with pounds to spare and travels in the E.C or to cheap hot climates. These readers are not gourmets but people looking for good food, enetrtainment, and thrills for a great value.

It sucks that the first issue on Vancouver will not highlight a number of places in high stead but does this have anything to do with ad space?

Cheers,

Stephen

PS for those who do not know...Time Out is producing an issue for Vancouver

Edited October 15, 2005 by SBonner (log)

[canucklehead]

I'm personally curious as to Jamie's (twice mentioned) remark about what "sharp-eyed readers" may have noticed.  Both cryptic and intriguing...

k.

←

I have been waiting for a little nudge in the right direction on that one myself.

←

Local culinary anthropologists will find the clues in Post#2, upthread.

←

Okay I give - I can never figure these cryptic little puzzles out. It is the ESL in me. Beyond the not so subtle digs that Ms. Gill throws at other critics - not sure what I should be reading into.

I don't think that there is anything wrong with reviewing a place like Diva. A decade ago - it was a big deal place - so it is always nice to see if standards are being kept. There are lots of older places that don't get much (or any) discussion sometimes. Bishop's, Villa Del Lupo, or any of the Umberto places for example.

So - the guantlet has been thrown down - and it has made me curious (morbid?) to check out Diva.

[jamiemaw]

OK--time's up.

I’m certainly not taking Alex (who is a colleague and friend) to task about this—and I don’t want to separate the fly shit from the pepper—just having a little fun.

But there were open kitchens dating well before Diva opened its doors--exhibition (or open) kitchens have a lengthy history here. I cooked in one at The Attic (shortly after the Crimean War) and my brother likewise at Hy’s at The Sands—in its famous grill pulpit. Hell, the oyster bars that peppered Cordova Street were the city’s first open raw bars (but also served angels on horseback), almost a century before No. 5 Orange opened its doors.

The best known one in the Post-Arugula Epoch is the forno and pass at CinCin (and many Earls for that matter).

But the most legendary open kitchen was at Vern’s. The eponymous proprietor, who cooked from his wheelchair, was a tough old cudgel. One night, at closing time, after the newsmen (including Denny Boyd) had finished their last rye and one of Vern’s very good hamburgers and paid up, a thief walked in and demanded the night’s takings. Vern reached up from behind his counter, pulled the thief over bodily, and griddled his eyes shut.

Moral: Tip tidily and leave quietly.

Edited October 15, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[~cayenne~]

OK--time's up.

.

But there were open kitchens dating well before Diva opened its doors--exhibition (or open) kitchens have a lengthy history here.  I cooked in one at The Attic (shortly after the Crimean War) and my brother likewise at Hy’s at The Sands—in its famous grill pulpit. Hell, the oyster bars that peppered Cordova Street were the city’s first open raw bars (but also served angels on horseback), almost a century before No. 5 Orange opened its doors.

The best known one in the Post-Arugula Epoch is the forno and pass at CinCin (and many Earls for that matter). 

But the most legendary open kitchen was at Vern’s. The eponymous proprietor, who cooked from his wheelchair, was a tough old cudgel. One night, at closing time, after the newsmen (including Denny Boyd) had finished their last rye and one of Vern’s very good hamburgers and paid up, a thief walked in and demanded the night’s takings. Vern reached up from behind his counter, pulled the thief over bodily, and griddled his eyes shut.

←

Ouch! Good one Vern!

Didn't Umberto's on Hornby famously have an open kitchen, earlier too? I know I remember others too, but not specifically their names at the moment.

I did notice though, that perhaps Alex should read the menu before posting certain comments

AHI TUNA TARTAR AND MARINATED SASHIMI

SMOKED SALMON CAVIAR, AVOCADO PURÉE,

YUZU TAMARI DRESSING

I can't understand why," says Morrow, who has trouble stomaching the wilted, room-temperature raw fish. The long scrape of green sauce on the plate might possibly be based in wasabi, but tastes like canned guacamole.

and/or before ordering her wine:

SMOKED ALASKAN BLACK COD

PRESERVED LEMON AND TARRAGON COD CAKE,

CHOWDER VEGETABLES AND BROTH

I fare better with smoked Alaskan black cod, but really wish someone had remembered it came with a lemon and tarragon cod cake when it came to the wine. I'll take part of the blame since I asked for a lean pinot noir, but if anyone had been alert enough to warn me that the lemon was overwhelmingly tart, this is one instance where I would have appreciated being overruled. (Until this point, I should say, the wine pairings had been excellent.)

Perhaps it wasn't very busy that night, being the Friday of Thanksgiving weekend, also therefore possibly contributing to the reasons of everything not being at the peak of perfection. Perhaps a disservice was done to the business and those of us who read the review, expecting a true picture of the establishment, by reviewing it on a day that wouldn't reflect the norm of service, imho. I understand she's a friend and all, but I'd respect a reviewer's opinion much more if it was written with more constructive criticism and less maliciousness.

[Andrew Morrison]

Forgive me, for my eyes are more blunt than sharp. This was an inaccurate and rather silly review for several reasons. I may have bit my tongue when she referred to Watermark's food as "crap", but her irresponsible review of Diva is just too laughable to leave alone. This my 700th post, everybody...and since no one else is going to tear this review up...I'm gonna

It was almost 10 years ago that Diva at the Met opened its doors at the Metropolitan Hotel, wowed the world with Michael Noble's gastro-extravaganza and racked up a slate of international awards.

It hasn't been ten years since they racked up the awards. Check this out. Anyone else remember the Diva crew walking to the stage at the Van Mag Awards last year?

"It really is very bad, isn't it?" says Fiona Morrow, co-editor of the upcoming Time Out guide to Vancouver, as we push off our half-eaten plates, puckering at the new chef's discordant clash of flavours.

Inserting a quote(s) in a restaurant review from someone who is uncertain if the food is good or bad?

Ten years ago, when Vancouver was a culinary backwater...

Now I'm just getting pissed.

But now, with some of the city's best chefs setting lofty new standards at entry-level establishments, it's seems absurd that some high-end restaurants are still coasting on their glory days.

What entry level establishments? The ones haven't you slammed yet?

Good old Chocoholic from last week:

"Anyway, last week I went to Diva at the Met for a work dinner. I hadn't been there in quite a while, it used to be one of my regular places. We were happily surprised to see a $75 6-course tasting menu as a special for the evening. It came with a $35 wine pairing as well. We went for it and I have to say it probably was one of the best value for money menus I have had in quite a while. Now $110 for dinner and wine isn't cheap but considering the quality of the food and the wine we got that night, I think it was a steal. I am glad to see good old Diva still delivers the goods."

Try as they might, this power team still has a long way to go before it can live up to its website's claim of being Vancouver's "premier" dining destination.

Based on one visit? That's a ten minute game misconduct. If you think this impressive group of professionals are worthy of a pithy punchline, there goes my subscription to the Globe.

What happened to our gnocchi? Oh, it's coming, the server assures, but the chef wanted you to try this plate as well. "I can't understand why," says Morrow

Poor Diva (the restaurant I mean). Most waiters would throw throw their aprons down and storm out at this point. Top marks for patience, Diva!

Finally, two portions of gnocchi arrive, on a light bed of forest mushrooms and lobster emulsion. The chef has added sweetbreads, puffed in crisp pastry, which we didn't ask for but quite enjoy...When we eventually get to our mains, Morrow is puzzled by the roasted veal loin: "I thought this was supposed to be wrapped in bacon." Thinly sliced medallions sit on a smear of pureed carrots and a sticky sweet glaze. "The most disgusting combination I ever ate in my life," she declares.

Ah, the glory of overstatement. After getting two amuse comped...tsk tsk...you poor thing. And who's doing the reviewing here? Gill or Morrow?

I fare better with smoked Alaskan black cod, but really wish someone had remembered it came with a lemon and tarragon cod cake when it came to the wine. I'll take part of the blame since I asked for a lean pinot noir, but if anyone had been alert enough to warn me that the lemon was overwhelmingly tart, this is one instance where I would have appreciated being overruled. (Until this point, I should say, the wine pairings had been excellent.)

I don't know many waiters who have the balls to overrule a restaurant critic. I think it's your responsibility to remember it came with a lemon and tarragon cake. It's nice that you "take the blame", but when you shift the blame the whistle I will blow. Five minutes for unsportsmanlike conduct.

Desserts are just as disappointing. Executive pastry chef Thomas Haas is one of Diva's main calling cards, but what most guests don't realize is that he is more of a consultant, only in the kitchen for special events. His famous chocolate sparkle cookie is barely warm and not at all gooey (I've had better luck with the take-out package from Sen5es that you bake at home). The Stilton cheesecake (a staple since Noble's time) has seen better days -- it tastes as if all the fruit flavour has been frozen right out of the rhubarb compote.

16th Annual Vancouver Magazine Awards - GOLD - Best Last Course.

This isn't the first time I've been recognized and offered a complimentary meal. And though it's common practice in Vancouver for critics to accept them, it is certainly not something I'll abide. If I don't pay for a meal, I won't review it.

In the end, it just reads as if two spoiled ladies got lost in a restaurant on the Friday before Thanksgiving, with one of them facing a Monday deadline. Pity Diva was in the crosshairs, but God help who's next.

Edited October 15, 2005 by editor@waiterblog (log)

[~cayenne~]

^ Thank you, you mentioned much of what I didn't have the courage to mention, but certain things certainly did me, (and no, not the comment below, that I just found quite

"Look at you," Morrow laughs as I stomp back into the dining room. "Now you're frustrated because you're being treated like a normal person.  Imagine the patrons who are just treated like normal people throughout their entire meal?

"

Happy to be a lowly normal person, probably with better service.

Edited October 15, 2005 by ~cayenne~ (log)

[Pacific Rim Grille]

It is hard to comprehend how Diva went down the drain in the eyes of critics. Having had opportunity of being a part of Culinary Team in the 1996 (at the time of “blast-off”) I find this posting and the review outrageous! Not by being a regular diner at the Met, but having worked with Ray Henry when he was an Exec Sous-Chef back then. It is hard to see why and how this could have happened. I am making a personal commitment to visit Diva and actually see if and if yes why has it fallen into disgrace.

It is still harder to comprehend since I have had time to enjoy Ray’s “performance” at a recent industry event and must say that he has still surprised me – maybe too keen on French influence (for my personal satisfaction), but still very impressive.

I must say that I have departed from Michael Noble’s philosophy (if you can call it as such), disregarded Chris Mills’ influence (however I do keep deep respect for Mills’ struggle and achievements as well as culinary expertise) and actually retained some of Ray’s tactics. Having had a chance to work with Lorenzo Loseto (Bacchus at the Wedgewood) actually opened my eyes onto possibilities of culinary art and proven that cooking (read: creating) can be fun! Being able to exit strict “French” code of Diva and Seasons In the Park and enter freedom of creation was the key. Running Pacific Rim Grille (www.pacificrimgrille.com) was just an evolution of Bacchus (sad to say not Diva).

And so, great reviews, good stories and always lot’s of interest in the Forum section.

Suave Jedynak

Chef – Owner

www.pacificrimgrille.com

[McTee]

Earlier in the thread, Jamie Maw mentioned Matthew Opferkuch, former F&B Director and AGM at the Met.

I personally witnessed Matthew reading the article today...

I will auction off my account of his response to the highest bidder.

[Andrew Morrison]

For 24 hours, I'll put McTee on my signature as my middle name (done), change my position from Food Writer to Freelance Imbiber of Ill Repute (done), and start every conversation thus:

"Hi, my name is McTee. Can I start you off with some sparkling or still water?

Edited October 15, 2005 by editor@waiterblog (log)