Stuffed Grape Leaves

[FoodMan]

I'll eat them warm with meat but to me thats just a whole 'nother dish.

Nessa, you could not be more correct in this statement. Indeed there are two distinct dishes made with grape leaves traditionally in Lebanon.

1- The vegetarian version stuffed with rice, chopped tomatoes, chopped onions, mint, parsley, S&P and olive oil. These are then cooked slowly barely covered with water and a few Tbsps of olive oil and lemon juice. They are almost always served cold or at room temperature usually as part of a Mezze (small appetizer) and usually considered a small meal or snack.

2- The non-vegetarian version is a totally different animal. It is a meal fit for kings and is certainly regarded that way. In the home where I grew this was a typical weekend meal where all the family and friends got together to enjoy. The stuffing is made with rice, ground meat (lamb, beef, or goat), S&P and a good amount of Samen (clarified butter) mixed in. Usually a few pounds of beef (at my family's home we used goat for it's distinctive flavor-especailly the tail) bones specifically from the shank and neck were simmered till almost done then layered in a large pot. The grape leaves (and usually some stuffed small zuchinnis) are layered on top and everything is covered with the bones broth and simmered till the stuffed veggies are cooked and the meat is falling of the bone. This luxurious meal is usually serevd with some homemade yogurt mixed seasoned with some salt and with pita bread alongside.

Elie

[nessa]

Oh wow Elie that sounds divine. There is a Lebanese place here that has a good warm, meaty dolma. Now I'm starving! I wonder where I can get goat meat here......

[ruthcooks]

I've never met a grape leaf I liked, but make an appetizer of Sweet and Sour Lamb rolls (think lemon, vinegar and sugar, not Chinese style S&S sauce) that are rolled in iceberg lettuce leaves and chilled.

[dankphishin]

Foodman, you just described a meal at my grandma's house. I'm hungry just imagining it.

[Athenaeus]

about 10 years ago I did research on the stuffing of leafy greens in the Mediterranean.  Here are some of my findings: The list included the leaves of quince, mulberry, green bean,fava bean, beet, hazelnut, cherry, grape or vine, chard, collard, mallow, fig, sorrel, and even the stinging nettle! (You rub the fresh leaves with coarse salt and wash under running water wearing rubber gloves to remove the sting)

The grain of choice despends upon the region: rice in France, Cy;prus, Spain, Greece, and the Middle East; corn around the Black sea; bulgur in southeastern Turkey; cracked shelled wheat in central Turkey. Sometimes too a combination of rice with bugur or green wheat is used---one of my favorites. You can get green wheat called frika at a middle eastern grocery.

Andrew Dalby in his monography, Sirens Feasts mentions that classical cooks used the fig leaves to wrap what evolved to dolmathes during the Proto-Byzantine Era ( ci.6th ce. A.D), In order to get rid of the sour taste that the fig leaves have they pickled them in brine. Obviously it worked.:)

Athenaeus( the original ancient author, not me) mentions those leaves for dolmathes ( wrapped minced meat) as thria.

Edited February 2, 2004 by Athenaeus (log)

[TrishCT]

It's taken me a long time, but I finally got my mom to check out E-G. The first thing she read (not my articles on here, sigh...) was this thread.

It caught her eye because she has been making stuffed grape leaves since she was a little girl. Her recipe is of the lebanese persuasion, but in all fairness, it is americanized. (She grew up in America during the depression and her family did a lot of adapting).

For years she has served these at summer picnics. Fresh grape leaves, washed and blanched are best, but brined in a jar work well. This recipe was never written down, so some measurements may not be exact...

It's a good basic recipe and you can jazz it up with your favorite inclusions.

Mom's Lebanon Meets Avon, Massachusetts Grape Leaves

For the stuffed leaves:

1 ½ lbs. Ground Lamb or Ground Beef (make sure it's lean)

½ cup Rice (uncooked, long grain white)

1 teaspoon Allspice

Salt & Pepper, to taste

1 can Stewed Tomatoes, crush tomatoes with your hands, drain and reserve the liquid

1 can Tomato Sauce

1 jar Grape Leaves, rinsed, reserve the 6-8 largest leaves

For the simmering sauce, combine:

1 can Stewed Tomatoes, mushed up

1 can Tomato Sauce

1 teasooon Allspice

Water to cover

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the lamb or ground beef, rice, allspice, salt, pepper, stewed tomatoes and tomato sauce. If the mixture is dry add enough reserved tomato juice so that the mixture is moist but not mushy or juicy.

2. Unroll the grape leaves, rinse and pat them dry. Set aside the largest 6-8 of them to be used as covering material.

3. Starting with a leaf inside facing up, take about a heaping teaspoon of the meat mixture and shape it like a cigarette, place it on the leaf, starting at the wide end of the leaf, roll it once or twice over the meat mixture, then tuck in the sides and continue to roll completely. Continue until all the leaves are filled and rolled.

4. In a 6-8 quart saucepan, place a footed metal steaming type basket, or an inverted plate. Add about 2 cups of the simmering sauce (under the plate if using a plate). Place 3 or 4 of those reserved large leaves over the basket or inverted plate to protect the leaves. Lay the stuffed leaves in a row going one way and then put another layer on top going the other way, keep alternating the direction.

5. When all the leaves are in, add the remaining simmering sauce with enough water added to completely cover the leaves, put the remaining 3-4 leaves on top. Cook at a slow simmer for about an hour or so till the leaves are cooked through and the rice and filling are done.

These are usually served hot/warm with some good syrian bread and a side dish of hummus bi tahini.

This same filling can be used for stuffed peppers or stuffed cabbage.

[Jaymes]

So here's my "stuffed grape leaves" story.

Some time back, my husband was in a senior management position for a very large and prestigious organization. We were hosting a party for a congressional delegation. There were several senators and representatives coming, along with press, staffers, local town dignitaries, and various other hangers-on.

It was decided that each wife of a senior staff member would prepare an appetizer for this event. It was thought that this would provide a "homey and personal" touch, rather than having the event catered.

Well, I had good intentions. I really did. I signed up for Dolmathes. But hey, one thing and another happened. Kids had to be shuttled here and there. A deadline at my job got moved forward. My daughter got sick.

So suddenly, whadaya know, it's the day of, and I haven't done a damn thing.

I raced to a local "gourmet" shop and bought the dolmathes. Then I laid them out beautifully on a silver tray -- first a nice doily, then a bed of lettuce, then the dolmathes garnished with lemon and tomato slices and capers and little sprigs of mint. I set them upon the table and hoped for the best.

"My" dolmathes were a huge hit. Everyone loved them. I took all the credit. "Thank you, thank you very much." Just like Elvis.

So all goes well until the next day when the Big Boss's wife telephoned me. "Mrs. Senator So&So says she's never had such exquisite appetizers and she'd like the recipes to have on hand for an upcoming cocktail party she's giving back in Washington. And too, most of our company's employees that were there also want the recipes. So I'm asking everyone that contributed something to please write down their recipe and I'm going to make a booklet to present to all of the visiting congressmen's wives as a momento."

Gag.

I didn't know what on earth to do. Finally, after much research, I copied the absolute most complicated recipe for dolmathes that I could find. My theory was that it would sound like so much trouble that nobody would ever try it.

And that's what I did. The recipe ran on for three pages. I can't remember exactly how it began, but I think it was either: "On the sunny side of your villa plant three grapevines"; or, "Cull one spring lamb from your New Zealand herd."

Edited February 8, 2004 by Jaymes (log)

[TrishCT]

So here's my "stuffed grape leaves" story.

Some time back, my husband was in a senior management position for a very large and prestigious organization. We were hosting a party for a congressional delegation. There were several senators and representatives coming, along with press, staffers, local town dignitaries, and various other hangers-on.

It was decided that each wife of a senior staff member would prepare an appetizer for this event. It was thought that this would provide a "homey and personal" touch, rather than having the event catered.

Well, I had good intentions. I really did. I signed up for Dolmathes. But hey, one thing and another happened. Kids had to be shuttled here and there. A deadline at my job got moved forward. My daughter got sick.

So suddenly, whadaya know, it's the day of, and I haven't done a damn thing.

I raced to a local "gourmet" shop and bought the dolmathes. Then I laid them out beautifully on a silver tray -- first a nice doily, then a bed of lettuce, then the dolmathes garnished with lemon and tomato slices and capers and little sprigs of mint. I set them upon the table and hoped for the best.

"My" dolmathes were a huge hit. Everyone loved them. I took all the credit. "Thank you, thank you very much." Just like Elvis.

So all goes well until the next day when the Big Boss's wife telephoned me. "Mrs. Senator So&So says she's never had such exquisite appetizers and she'd like the recipes to have on hand for an upcoming cocktail party she's giving back in Washington. And too, most of our company's employees that were there also want the recipes. So I'm asking everyone that contributed something to please write down their recipe and I'm going to make a booklet to present to all of the visiting congressmen's wives as a momento."

Gag.

I didn't know what on earth to do. Finally, after much research, I copied the absolute most complicated recipe for dolmathes that I could find. My theory was that it would sound like so much trouble that nobody would ever try it.

And that's what I did. The recipe ran on for three pages. I can't remember exactly how it began, but I think it was either: "On the sunny side of your villa plant three grapevines"; or, "Cull one spring lamb from your New Zealand herd."

[Jaymes]

So here's my "stuffed grape leaves" story.

Thanks, Trish. And it was funny. Everyone else's recipe was about a third of a page, half at most, and mine just went on and on and on.

[Behemoth]

I'll eat them warm with meat but to me thats just a whole 'nother dish.

2- The non-vegetarian version is a totally different animal. It is a meal fit for kings and is certainly regarded that way. In the home where I grew this was a typical weekend meal where all the family and friends got together to enjoy. The stuffing is made with rice, ground meat (lamb, beef, or goat), S&P and a good amount of Samen (clarified butter) mixed in. Usually a few pounds of beef (at my family's home we used goat for it's distinctive flavor-especailly the tail) bones specifically from the shank and neck were simmered till almost done then layered in a large pot. The grape leaves (and usually some stuffed small zuchinnis) are layered on top and everything is covered with the bones broth and simmered till the stuffed veggies are cooked and the meat is falling of the bone. This luxurious meal is usually serevd with some homemade yogurt mixed seasoned with some salt and with pita bread alongside.

Elie

Oh God, I haven't had the meat version since leaving lebanon. I never had it with the yoghurt as you mention but otherwise it was quite a production: grape leaves stuffed with rice, spices and ground lamb, rolled up into tiny little pinky-sized cigars that tripoli women are famous for. (This in itself was quite a social event, the evening before everyone would be sitting around rolling these things). Cooked in a giant pot with along with intestines stuffed with rice and more lamb (kind of like a lurid, long sausage and my absolute favorite food as a kid), and then a bunch of giant lamb bones. Dinner would be very noisy that night, with everyone banging those bones against their dishes to get at the marrow. Then we'd all sit around in a gluttony-induced stupor, kind of like Thanksgiving.

I think the main difference I noticed between the lebanese version and the turkish versions I've had is the lebanese version was always lemony, the turkish ones incorporate either raisins or cinnamon or both. (Needless to say my Lebanese genes drive me towards all things sour, so I prefer the lemony ones...)

There was also a vegetarian version with swiss chard leaves (usually eaten cold) that I always really liked. Again, really lemony.

To be honest, there are only two things that can mess grape leaves up for me: one is if the leaves are stringy, the other is if the rice is allowed to dry out. Surprisingly, I come across these bad versions far more often than good. I should probably try to make them myself. Well, I did once, but my dad made fun of me 'cause they were too big

Edited April 30, 2004 by Behemoth (log)

[Swisskaese]

The best ones I have ever had were at a Druze restaurant in Dalyat al Karmel. In fact, Druze food is excellent.

This thread is really making me hungry.

[FoodMan]

I'll eat them warm with meat but to me thats just a whole 'nother dish.

2- The non-vegetarian version is a totally different animal. It is a meal fit for kings and is certainly regarded that way. In the home where I grew this was a typical weekend meal where all the family and friends got together to enjoy. The stuffing is made with rice, ground meat (lamb, beef, or goat), S&P and a good amount of Samen (clarified butter) mixed in. Usually a few pounds of beef (at my family's home we used goat for it's distinctive flavor-especailly the tail) bones specifically from the shank and neck were simmered till almost done then layered in a large pot. The grape leaves (and usually some stuffed small zuchinnis) are layered on top and everything is covered with the bones broth and simmered till the stuffed veggies are cooked and the meat is falling of the bone. This luxurious meal is usually serevd with some homemade yogurt mixed seasoned with some salt and with pita bread alongside.

Elie

Oh God, I haven't had the meat version since leaving lebanon. I never had it with the yoghurt as you mention but otherwise it was quite a production: grape leaves stuffed with rice, spices and ground lamb, rolled up into tiny little pinky-sized cigars that tripoli women are famous for. (This in itself was quite a social event, the evening before everyone would be sitting around rolling these things). Cooked in a giant pot with along with intestines stuffed with rice and more lamb (kind of like a lurid, long sausage and my absolute favorite food as a kid), and then a bunch of giant lamb bones. Dinner would be very noisy that night, with everyone banging those bones against their dishes to get at the marrow. Then we'd all sit around in a gluttony-induced stupor, kind of like Thanksgiving.

I think the main difference I noticed between the lebanese version and the turkish versions I've had is the lebanese version was always lemony, the turkish ones incorporate either raisins or cinnamon or both. (Needless to say my Lebanese genes drive me towards all things sour, so I prefer the lemony ones...)

There was also a vegetarian version with swiss chard leaves (usually eaten cold) that I always really liked. Again, really lemony.

To be honest, there are only two things that can mess grape leaves up for me: one is if the leaves are stringy, the other is if the rice is allowed to dry out. Surprisingly, I come across these bad versions far more often than good. I should probably try to make them myself. Well, I did once, but my dad made fun of me 'cause they were too big

I know the Swiss Chard ones you are talking about and I have not made them or ate them since leaving Lebanon. They are much more lemony and I used to squeeze more lemon on them and like you said eat cold, they are wonderful. I am going to Lebanon for two weeks in May, hopefully I'll get a chance to sample all this stuff.

Elie

[bleudauvergne]

I was 13 years old and slept over at my friend Olga's house. We went in the house, me with my sleeping bag and overnight bag, and were sent out back by her mother. We picked the leaves in the back yard that afternoon, and her mother served them stuffed for dinner. It was the first time I'd ever had that dish. I was amazed and in awe. I have to say I've never had them prepared so wonderfully ever since. They used beef and rice, very simple. I tried to pick leaves and do this myself many years later but they weren't half as good. When's the best time to pick leaves and how should they be processed before cooking? The thing that made these so incredible was that the texture iof the leaves was just perfect, soft and delicious. When I tried to prepare this dish my leaves were a bit stringy. I've eaten them in restaurants and made them with the brined leaves I can buy, but I never felt it was as good as with the fresh leaves.

[adoxograph]

Up the street from our house in CT lived the Nahoms - a wonderful Lebanese-Italian family who, I firmly believed at a wizened 8 years old, ate much better than we ever did. If I was very lucky and very good (this took more effort than Santa Claus ever required) I would be able to stay for dinner when they had stuffed grape leaves. What I've managed to piece together over the years is that they were always lamb and rice, served warm, with allspice, cinnamon, lemon to season. Lemon slices and lamb bones were in the pot. There was a variation that involved the addition of a bit of tomotoes to the filling, and this mixture was stuffed in yellow squash, and I loved this just as much. A vegetarian version used lentils and rice.

However, I've never been able to absolutely replicate her dish. The closest, and yet still not exactly right, that I have found were at Marrakesh in Philadelphia. I'd test more from them but I live in Chicago, and that's a rough commute. If anyone here wants to send samples of theirs, I'll happily compare.

[FoodMan]

I was 13 years old and slept over at my friend Olga's house. We went in the house, me with my sleeping bag and overnight bag, and were sent out back by her mother. We picked the leaves in the back yard that afternoon, and her mother served them stuffed for dinner. It was the first time I'd ever had that dish. I was amazed and in awe. I have to say I've never had them prepared so wonderfully ever since. They used beef and rice, very simple. I tried to pick leaves and do this myself many years later but they weren't half as good. When's the best time to pick leaves and how should they be processed before cooking? The thing that made these so incredible was that the texture iof the leaves was just perfect, soft and delicious. When I tried to prepare this dish my leaves were a bit stringy. I've eaten them in restaurants and made them with the brined leaves I can buy, but I never felt it was as good as with the fresh leaves.

Ideally the leaves should be picked in late spring-early summer when they are still light green in color and not tough. At this time the vine will not have any grapes just yet only tender young leaves. I've also seen my grandmother pick leaves in the summer from our rooftop grapevine, but only the young new tender light green ones. To process them just blanch in boiling water for about a minute then shock in ice water.

Elie

P.S. As a kid one of my favorite things to eat were these tangy grape leaves, raw right of the vine sprinkled with a little salt

[rich]

Mine!

[Behemoth]

P.S. As a kid one of my favorite things to eat were these tangy grape leaves, raw right of the vine sprinkled with a little salt

I never knew about eating the leaves! I used to steal the sour grapes right off the vine -- I would eat them until I got a stomach ache. And those yellow flowers that grow all over the place and taste like lemon? Sigh. A macrobiotic would have a field day analyzing the overload of yin (or is it yang?) and the average lebanese diet.

[trillium]

Is there anything less time consuming to do with grape leaves in the kitchen besides stuffing them? I'm eyeing the huge vine that is growing over our back fence, the leaves look just perfect right now. I'm not sure I'm up to a stuffing project, I haven't even unpacked the kitchen completely. I was thinking of trying to do something layered, but would that be totally uncool?

regards,

trillium

[Swisskaese]

You can wrap them around fish. I had whole grilled red mullet wrapped in fresh grape leaves and brushed with olive oil and lemon. They were fantastic.

Here are a few fish recipes:

http://www.tln.com/program/cheferic/recipe21.html

http://www.krinos.com/ind_recipe.php?RId=56

http://www.cooking.com/recipes/static/recipe690.htm

or Roast Quail:

http://www.deliaonline.com/recipes/r_0000001372.asp

or Beef:

http://www.foodlines.com/recipe_swap/start...er_leaves.shtml

Edited May 7, 2004 by Swisskaese (log)

[marlena spieler]

Is there anything less time consuming to do with grape leaves in the kitchen besides stuffing them? I'm eyeing the huge vine that is growing over our back fence, the leaves look just perfect right now. I'm not sure I'm up to a stuffing project, I haven't even unpacked the kitchen completely. I was thinking of trying to do something layered, but would that be totally uncool?

regards,

trillium

Oh god you guys, vineleaves are my favourite. swisskaese, you are so right, wrapped around and fish and grilled, divine: i add a sauce of garlicky-lemony-tahina and a handful of pomegranate seeds scattered on top, and a few leaves of mint, too, if i'm feeling up to it and they are available......

a great thing too to do with vineleaves that doesn't involve individual stuffing, is to blanch and wrap around goats cheese, then tie into a parcel and warm on the grill.....untie and dig out the tangy melty cheese.

i used to make too a stewy dish from eastern europe, meaty spicy stuff layered with vineleaves. the vineleaves added lots of flavour but could be a little bit tough to chew.......the recipe is in my book HOT and SPICY which has been out of print for a zillion years but someone out there might have a copy. if i were making it today however i'd make it without the hot chile.

i also used to make stuffed vineleaves filled with meat, pinenuts, and spices such as cumin, etc, then layer the parcels in tomatoes, sliced onions, olive oil, garlic, allspice, cinnamon, and simmer slowly. The stewy sauce with the tangy meatfilled parcels, yum. i added yogurt on the side, but then i quite often add yogurt on the side. i love its cool contrast.......

Marlena who wishes she had a vine outside her door, just for plucking the leaves!

[Swisskaese]

Oh god you guys, vineleaves are my favourite. swisskaese, you are so right, wrapped around and fish and grilled, divine: i add a sauce of garlicky-lemony-tahina and a handful of pomegranate seeds scattered on top, and a few leaves of mint, too, if i'm feeling up to it and they are available......

Marlena that sounds amazing. I am going to have to try that when my boyfriend gets back from London.

[nikko]

Is there anything less time consuming to do with grape leaves in the kitchen besides stuffing them?  I'm eyeing the huge vine that is growing over our back fence, the leaves look just perfect right now.

I make "kleftiko" (meat cooked in paper) with vine leaves. I got the idea from Athens restaurant.

Small pieces of pork, feta, some vegetables (such as leeks & carrots) are wrapped in vine leaves and paper. This package is baked slowly in the oven until meat becomes tender.

I'm not sure if this is less time consuming than dolma, but it takes much less work. You can use vine leaves just for flavour or, you can eat the leaves as well if tender young leaves are used.

Edited August 2, 2004 by nikko (log)

[chefseanbrock]

I was born and raised in the middle-east, my favorite is my mom's recipie, a classic, using fresh or preserved grape leaves stuffed with gound beef, lamb long grain rice ( basmati) diced tomatoes, garlic and onion, with ground cardamom, allspice and cinamon, slow cooked in lemony tomato juice, we like using sliced tomatoes on the botttom of the pan, sometimes we also stuff zuchini with the same mixture and put it towards the bottom of the pan. use enough liquid to barly cover the grape leaves and place a plate on top, cover with a lid.

when cooked flip the pan onto a tray and serve hot. if you want to go an extra step, broil them till the leaves get little cripsy...yum yum

[lalala]

My mom's are the best! Rice, yellow split peas, fresh mint, savory, green onions and ground beef.

However, I'll call her for the exact recipe. I know she picks her own leaves at various and sundry wineries around where my parents have lived.

Good mom grape leaf story--

My mom and her friend (both little old adorable ladies) go to large winery in Woodinville and ask permission to pick leaves for dolmehs. Get the okay and go every few weeks and pick to their hearts content. They share amongst their friends and mommy-network of LOIL (little old Iranian ladies). This network is amazing for food sharing -- verjus, grape leaves, saffron, herbs.

Mom and dad retire and move to San Diego, mom goes to a winery in Rancho Bernardo and makes friends with manager. He allows her to pick grape leaves and she returns the following week with freshly made dolmehs for the crew lunches.

She has picking privleges for life there.

lalala

[FoodMan]

My mom's are the best! Rice, yellow split peas, fresh mint, savory, green onions and ground beef.

However, I'll call her for the exact recipe. I know she picks her own leaves at various and sundry wineries around where my parents have lived.

Good mom grape leaf story--

My mom and her friend (both little old adorable ladies) go to large winery in Woodinville and ask permission to pick leaves for dolmehs. Get the okay and go every few weeks and pick to their hearts content. They share amongst their friends and mommy-network of LOIL (little old Iranian ladies). This network is amazing for food sharing -- verjus, grape leaves, saffron, herbs.

Mom and dad retire and move to San Diego, mom goes to a winery in Rancho Bernardo and makes friends with manager. He allows her to pick grape leaves and she returns the following week with freshly made dolmehs for the crew lunches.

She has picking privleges for life there.

lalala

LOL...nothing like freshly made Dolmehs from fresh leaves. Thanks for sharing.

Elie