Seattle-ites visit Montreal and Quebec City

[little ms foodie]

As you may have read on another thread Della and I will be in Montreal and Quebec City later this month. We have reservations at Toque! and at Le Club Chasse et Pêche, we need a good bistro that is open on Sunday or Monday for our last night in Montreal and also some lunch and bar recommendations.

Also we have one day in Quebec City and it will be either Sunday or Monday, where is a great place for lunch and dinner? Probably on the more casual side as we will be day trippers.

thanks!

[Campofiorin]

If you're looking for a bistrot, I'd suggest l'Express on St-Denis or not too far is Au Pied de cochon on Duluth which boast Québécois style cuisine with a french bistrot approach. Or you could go to Leméac on Laurier Ouest or even Brunoise on Des Pins.

As far as QC is concerned, I don't think I'd be much help. I could probably recommend 47e (as in 47th) Parallèle which offers great deserts and a french cuisine along with a special tasting menu devoted a different part of the world every month. It also comes with a wine pairing from the said area.

[little ms foodie]

thank you! do you know if the bistros you mentioned in Montreal are open on Sundays or Mondays?

[carswell]

thank you! do you know if the bistros you mentioned in Montreal are open on Sundays or Mondays?

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Ahem. In the recent 9 days in Montreal thread...

The two classic bistros mentioned are L'Express and Au Petit Extra. Leméac, probably my favourite bistro these days, is open on Sundays and Mondays.

[francois]

In Montreal, I would suggest Le Mas des Oliviers. It is open on Sunday evening and on Monday. It is not a bistro but a nice french restaurant. It is not a trendy place, but quite good and with an atmosphere filled with warmth and generosity. Try the tuna or the bass (if not on the menu, just aks). Filet mignon and lamb shanks (meltingly tender) are excellent and huge. For desert, try the tatin, specially, if they have the banana or the fig tatin.

In Quebec city, I would suggest L'Utopie, on St-Joseph street.

Bon appetit!

[jfl91]

You are going to 2 of the best in Montreal in Toqué and Club Chasse et Pêche.

As for quebec city, I think the same as François, L'Utopie is the best in my book.

[rcianci]

Brunoise, which is open on Mondays, is on the corner of Rue Roy and St. Andre.

[MaeveH]

In Quebec city, I would recommend Echaude, and do pop by JA Moisan. You can read a bit about a (misfortunate) visit to QC here Quebec City haunts

[Shelley G.]

In Quebec city, I would recommend Echaude, and do pop by JA Moisan. You can read a bit about a (misfortunate) visit to QC here Quebec City haunts

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I, too, liked L'Echaude, and for breakfast, Le Cochon Dingle. Had yummy eggs benny only with brie and asparagus...

[little ms foodie]

great info, thanks everyone!!

One thing I just thought about is that we will get into Montreal late on Thursday night, being from the west coast we will probably still be pretty awake. Is there anyplace that is really great for late night eating? Are any of the bistros open for dinner late on a Thurs. night? Where do the restaurant folks go for dinner after they get off work?

[carswell]

One thing I just thought about is that we will get into Montreal late on Thursday night, being from the west coast we will probably still be pretty awake. Is there anyplace that is really great for late night eating? Are any of the bistros open for dinner late on a Thurs. night? Where do the restaurant folks go for dinner after they get off work?

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L'Express's kitchen is open until 1 or 2 a.m. Leméac has a great special between 10 p.m. and midnight. Wine bar Bû is open till 1 a.m. and serves a nice selection of small dishes with their wines.

[little ms foodie]

perfect!!!

also who do you think has the best bagles?? I'm so excited to get a great bagle for breakfast!

[docsconz]

perfect!!!

also who do you think has the best bagles?? I'm so excited to get a great bagle for breakfast!

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St-Viateur.

[carswell]

also who do you think has the best bagles?? I'm so excited to get a great bagle for breakfast!

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Do you mean who makes the best bagels or which resto serves the best bagels?

If the former, you'll have to decide for yourself. The field is narrowed to two candidates: St-Viateur and Fairmount. Each has its partisans. Prompted by rave reviews on this and other boards, I've recently bought several dozen from Fairmount and remain convinced that, despite their worrisome trend toward obesity, St-Viateur's are superior: less sweet, breadier and not smothered in seeds.

If you're asking about restos, I won't be much help. There's a St-Viateur Café a couple of blocks east of the factory on St-Viateur (I've never been). I believe Beauty's serves St-Viateur bagels, too. Bagels Etc. reportedly sources theirs from neither factory. Bummer.

[Mr. Fagioli]

also who do you think has the best bagles?? I'm so excited to get a great bagle for breakfast!

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Do you mean who makes the best bagels or which resto serves the best bagels?

If the former, you'll have to decide for yourself. The field is narrowed to two candidates: St-Viateur and Fairmount. Each has its partisans. Prompted by rave reviews on this and other boards, I've recently bought several dozen from Fairmount and remain convinced that, despite their worrisome trend toward obesity, St-Viateur's are superior: less sweet, breadier and not smothered in seeds.

As a Fairmount partisan, I acknowledge that my sweet tooth may be the decisive factor...though I think my preference for the poppy bagel might also come into play. In neither case is the bagel especially overwhelmed with seeds, IMO.

If you're asking about restos, I won't be much help. There's a St-Viateur Café a couple of blocks east of the factory on St-Viateur (I've never been). I believe Beauty's serves St-Viateur bagels, too. Bagels Etc. reportedly sources theirs from neither factory. Bummer.

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Bagel etc. (note the old-school plural of "bagel") is a shadow of its former self. No comparison to the days, about ten years gone, when they smoked their own meats and stayed open most of the night. Still a decent place for an omelette and a cup of (ordinary) joe, but the home fries are among the items that just haven't remained what they were. Burgers are now served on something uncomfortably similar to a standard mass-produced bun.

[little ms foodie]

Fellow eG'ers Della and Adiabatic traveled with Dayne and I to Montreal last week, we had a really great time, what a beautiful city. We took a lot of advice from this board so here's a little report!

We stayed at the Omni Hotel right next to the Peel metro stop. Very nice hotel which gives you complimentary morning coffee and juice if you sign up for their Select Guest membership.

We arrived quite late but Dayne and I were anxious to get out so we walked down the street and had a late night snack at Alexandres on Peel- onion soup, mussels, beers. Our meal was pretty good, not the best not the worst.

Each morning to start our day we would have breakfast at the Au Pain Dore on Peel. Great place for cafe au lait and a chocolatine or croissant.

The first day we spent in Vieux Montreal for sightseeing, the archeological museum and lunch on the main place , at the Adventure Café. Obviously very touristy but fun and nice to sit outside with the sun out and have lunch.

Later while Della and I did some shopping on St Catherine the guys had beers at Trios Brassieres

Dinner on Friday night was at Toque, the chef was in the house which was nice and we all had the chef's tasting menu with paired wines:

amuse- chrysanthemum and greens and grey salt with pepper

Fresh north coast sea urchin served in the shell served with Sancerre 2004, La Moussiere, A. Mellot

Bluefin tuna belly served on bread and tomato salad with house mayo served with Vins de Pays d'Oc, Viognier Domaine Cazal Viel

seared foie gras of duck with puree of Geneva apples, grapes, almonds, fried breadcrumbs and honey and port vinaigrette served with Vin de Table, Romorantin, Les Cailloux du Paradis

Braised pork belly with matsutke mushrooms, beets and artichokes and bacon foam served with Sancerre 2003, domaine Vacheron

Roast pigon with braised meat ravioli, chanterelles, puree of white chocolate, garlic chips and baby bok choy served with Barbera d'asti Superiore 1997, Stradivario, Bava

Lots of cheeses not pictured

carmelized figs and vanilla ice cream, balsamic reduction, chocolate baton with pear and pistacio

white chocolate and yogurt mousse with 'bluets'

We had drinks after at Suite 701 (I think it was called?)

The next day we finished up some sightseeing in the old town and decided to stop for a snack before heading to the Latin Quarter. Yum, our first poutine! I don't know why people say this is gross, we loved it!

On to our lunch at Schwartz’s Deli! Even though it was around 3pm by now there was still a line.

Our waiter was fantastic! he recommended the medium fatty smoked meat sandwich. We also had pickles and a side of cole slaw.

I didn't care much for the slaw but Della and Adiabatic loved it.

Dinner that night was at Chasseurs and Peche. We forgot the camera so no pictures, sorry. I had the foie gras appetizer and the surf and turf which was butter poached lobster and black pork. Both were very good. Our service started out really good but continued to go down hill through out the night. We all really wanted to love C&P but by the time we left we were pretty disappointed. I'll let Della and Adiabatic add their own comments.

Headed to the casino for some craps after dinner.

Bagles at St. Viatour café the next morning before heading to Quebec City for the day. Great bagles, I loved that they were firmer and smaller than the huge pillowy ones we get out here.

In Quebec City we walked around the lower and upper towns.So beautiful! Lunch at a little touristy cafe, we tried the traditional Quebec meat pie which was pretty good. Drinks at the Fairmont Hotel for a little rest, this is the icewine martini.

Dinner at L’Eschaud that night. What a fantastic restaurant! I had the mushroom tart to start and then the duck confit which was soooo good!!

The next day we visited the Jean Talon Market and had lunch at an Italian place next to the butcher, I can't recall the name but we had great pasta and Dayne had fantastic mussels with Sambuca in the sauce.

Dinner at L’Express for our last night, this may have been my favorite place!

Bone marrow with grey salt appetizer for me

Dayne had the octopus salad

Della and Adiabatic both had the quail with wild rice for dinner, this was the standout dish of the night!

I had the duck breast with figs which was just ok

Dayne had the lamb shank which was also really good

the house chocolates

We walked to the Go Go lounge for drinks after, great bar!!

On our last afternoon we had lunch back at Alexandre's on Peel. We all had steak frites with shallot butter while sitting outside. Adiabatic had cassoulet. The lunch here was really good! A perfect way to end our trip.

Edited October 3, 2005 by little ms foodie (log)

[Thesorus]

great review ...

Can you tell us more why the service at the Club Chasse et Peches was not good ?

[francois]

Funny... I was also at the club chasse et peche last week (wednesday night). It was my 3rd visit. I also left disapointed. Food was good, of course, very good. Portion sizes were way too small, almost like tasting menus, except you don't have 7-8 courses. The way they describe the plates makes you believe they are way bigger than they actually are. The prices however are quite high... I am not sure I will go back.

[jfl91]

For me, I prefer smaller portions than bigger. When you quit the restaurant and you are too full, you don't appreciate it really.

I think the prices at CC&P are average and far to be expensive if we compare to many restaurants in Montreal that are really disapointing.

I would like to know why you didn't like it?

[little ms foodie]

I have to say that I thought the prices at C&P were really reasonable! I also thougt the portion sizes weregood, we couldn't finish everything. The service just started to suck. I don't know if I can explain it, I'm hoping my friends will chime in.

[little ms foodie]

I've posted our snacking report with pictures here.

Thanks so much for all the advice!

Edited October 3, 2005 by little ms foodie (log)

[little ms foodie]

great review ...

Can you tell us more why the service at the Club Chasse et Peches was not good ?

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It was strange, at first our waitress was very attentive, giving good recommendations, etc. but after the appetizers she started to disappear and then at one point the owner (?) started waiting on us. It seemed really weird. Then we saw her again but it took a long time for her to get us dessert, our bill, etc.

Also we ordered espressos and they were burnt. Really horrible. I let her know and she gave me a very weird look. I let her know that I wasn't looking to have it taken off the tab but more so that she could let her bartender know.....she just shrugged and said ok.

Oh but we all liked the showerhead on the bathroom sink! haha!

[jfl91]

Weird, normally the service is good. Friendly but good.

[Della]

Thanks for getting all the pictures and the post up about our trip LMF. I know Greg and I both appreciate it! We had a great time and would definately head back that way another time for more exploring, fun and food.

As far as the service at Club Chasse et Peche - The waitress was spot on during the first part of the experience - the taking of the order

Once we ordered the first course came out really really fast. I remember looking at my watch and from the time we arrived, ordered and received cocktails and ordered our meal and had our first course delivered it was 30 minutes total. And I thought - wow - we will be out of here in 1 hour! Our reservations were for 7:30 PM by the way. So after we got our first course the rest of the restaurant seemed to have filled up and I don't know if our waitress was just too busy or what but we really didn't see her much after that - someone else delivered our main course and cleared. Everything just really slowed down after that first half hour - and it wasn't slowed down to a nice pace, it was slowed down to the point where the four of us were like - where the heck is she? So - to sum it up - the food was great, I loved the decor, the prices were reasonable for the amount and quality of the food but the service was so off that I would be hard pressed to go there again.

?

[francois]

The only bad point about the Club Chasse et peche, in my experience, has been the size of the plates (maybe it has more to do with the size of my appetite?). The service has always been very good. The food is excellent. If the portions were larger, the prices would not be too bad. Your experience is probably not representative of the restaurant.