CHI: Topolobampo and Frontera Grill

[ulterior epicure]

I'm heading back to chicago next month, maybe I'll hit Frontera this time.

little ms. foodie.

i'll be interested to hear what you think of the two. i'm assuming you've not been to frontera yet?

i actually preferred the food at frontera. i didn't think that the dishes at frontera were any less spectacular than in topolo. my only complaint with frontera was that i could hardly hear myself eat...

u.e.

[Sneakeater]

If you do go try their pairings with Mexican wines. They work surprisingly and amazingly well with the food.

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I'm very interested in that remark, because in a fairly recent visit to Mexico City I tried and tried to pair Mexican wines with alta/nueva cucina, and I just couldn't make it work. I consistently found the foods too rich for the reds (the way Indian food is), and too hearty for the whites. I'd love to hear what you've done.

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As stated, my wines were very well matched and quite surprising as generally I don't drink wine with this type of meal. For that alone I think it's worth the trip to Topo.

I'm heading back to chicago next month, maybe I'll hit Frontera this time.

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Sorry -- I had somehow skipped your post! Thanks for the pointer.

FWIW, I've been to Frontera but not Topolobampo, and thought Frontera was terrific.

[Sneakeater]

Also FWIW, I also completely failed at pairing wine with the food at Centrico in New York. (Although there it didn't matter, because once I saw the wine wasn't working we just kept on ordering more of their fabulous margaritas.) I guess I'm just someone who can't figure out good wine pairings for Mexican food.

Edited March 23, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[docsconz]

If you do go try their pairings with Mexican wines. They work surprisingly and amazingly well with the food.

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I'm very interested in that remark, because in a fairly recent visit to Mexico City I tried and tried to pair Mexican wines with alta/nueva cucina, and I just couldn't make it work. I consistently found the foods too rich for the reds (the way Indian food is), and too hearty for the whites. I'd love to hear what you've done.

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It isn't at all what I have done. It is what Rick and his crew have done. After several meals at Topo and time with Rick in Mexico I can attest that not only is it possible, it can be startlingly good. This is particularly true for the more sophisticated cuisine.

By the way I found excellent pairings with Indian food at Amma when Suvir Suran and Hemant Mathur were there. In possibly one of my biggest omissions so far I have yet to dine at Devi. I will have to correct that.

[Sneakeater]

You have GOT to eat at Devi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(On-topic [sort of], do you remember any of Rick's or his staff's pairings?)

(Less on topic [but sort of], I've had success pairing white wines with Indian food, but not red. Even with "meat" dishes like lamb, I've found whites to work better. Did Suvir/Hemant and their team come up with any successful red-wine pairings?)

Edited March 23, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[docsconz]

You have GOT to eat at Devi!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(On-topic [sort of], do you remember any of Rick's or his staff's pairings?)

(Less on topic [but sort of], I've had success pairing white wines with Indian food, but not red.  Even with "meat" dishes like lamb, I've found whites to work better.  Did Suvir/Hemant and their team come up with any successful red-wine pairings?)

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I remember some Australian Shiraz worked well at Amma, but not which one, although I had several different ones there.

As for Rick's pairings I will be mentioning some specific wines we tasted in my thread on the trip my wife and I were on with him. However, whenever dining at Topo I would let them recommend the specific pairings. They have a dynamite wine program.

[Sneakeater]

Thanks!

[towncompany]

... I thought "ahhhhhhhh this must be like the food in that movie!".  However... I didn't go running out of the restaurant tearing my clothes off like that red head!

LOL!!

Neither did I, thank goodness!

u.e.

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i'm pretty sure that they still do tita's menu from laura esquivel's "like water for chocolate" every valentine's day. in fact, ms. esquivel has been there to read passages from the book. probably the coolest special-event-type-of-thing i've been a part of, i feel lucky to have seen the night from a cook and customer point-of-view. the place is electric! here was/is? the menu:

passion fruit magaritas

champandongo: tortillas layered with beef/pork, almonds, pecans, cream, cheese and red mole.

NV proseco "rustico" nino franco, valdobbiadene, italy

oxtail soup with tomatoes, green beans and smoky chile morita

quail in roste petal sauce with chestnuts, anise, honey and cactus fruit

1998 traminer, pojer e sandri, trentino, italy

chiles en nogada: poblanos with pork picadillo, fresh walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds

1997 saint george, skouras winery, nema, greece

chabela wedding cake with apricot, meringue and prickly pear

hot chocolate with cinnamon and almonds

all of that for $85 per person!

[ulterior epicure]

towncompany.

FANTASTIC! I didn't know that! If it if weren't for the fact that I'd want to keep my clothes on, I just might be tempted to visit on V-Day!

u.e.

[docsconz]

I had a superb and fortunately early brunch at Frontera Grill last Saturday.

I started with Quesadillas Capitalinas - Mexico City-style quesadillas (corn masa turnovers) stuffed with Amish handmade cheese and fresh epazote, with guacamole to daub. These wre delicious. The guacomole was thick and full of deep avocado flavor.

I followed with another appetizer, Sopes Rancheros - small corn masa boats with shredded beef, tomato-chile sauce and fresh Mexican cheese. These were delicious. Good Mexican food is something I crave and don't have the opportunity to eat nearly often enough.

For my main I had to get mole'. This was Enchiladas de Mole - homemade tortillas rolled around shredded chicken and doused with Oaxacan red mole. It came with black beans. This satisfied that craving. There so many other things I would have loved to have eaten as well, but did not have the capacity for especially as I was anticipating a foie gras tasting dinner at Avenues that night.

While I was there I came across information for a special event they were having the next day, The Festival of the One True Taste. I made it back for that. It was a great event, on which I will post separately next week.

[molto e]

I had a superb and fortunately early brunch at Frontera Grill last Saturday.

I started with Quesadillas Capitalinas - Mexico City-style quesadillas (corn masa turnovers) stuffed with Amish handmade cheese and fresh epazote, with guacamole to daub. These wre delicious. The guacomole was thick and full of deep avocado flavor.

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Doc,

I get those every time I eat at Frontera or Topo-LOVE'EM.

Molto E

[BryanZ]

Had brunch at Frontera Grill this Saturday. Made a 10:30 reso for one and arrived just as it was opening. I didn't have any problem getting seated.

Started off with a cup full of the restaurant's spicy nut mixture. Quite tasty. Also got a Topolo Margarita; it was very well-crafted.

I had two main dishes, one brunch dish and one platillo fuerte

Sapitos: a trio of Xalapa-style gorditas (corn masa cakes) in chipotle-black bean sauce—each with its own topping: scrambled eggs, grilled chicken, chorizo and plantains; homemade crema and queso fresco.

Enchiladas de Mole Poblano: homemade tortillas rolled around Gunthorp chicken, doused with Mexico’s most famous mole; black beans.

The food was very good and very filling. The most enjoyable Mexican food I've had was actually in Las Vegas but this came close. I guess my biggest complaint, and it is minor and probably due to the fact that I ordered rather formidable dishes, is that the food was quite heavy. The mole was especially delicious in that way only moles are.

[eatrustic]

Had brunch at Frontera Grill this Saturday.  Made a 10:30 reso for one and arrived just as it was opening.  I didn't have any problem getting seated.

Started off with a cup full of the restaurant's spicy nut mixture.  Quite tasty.  Also got a Topolo Margarita; it was very well-crafted.

I had two main dishes, one brunch dish and one platillo fuerte

The food was very good and very filling.  The most enjoyable Mexican food I've had was actually in Las Vegas but this came close.  I guess my biggest complaint, and it is minor and probably due to the fact that I ordered rather formidable dishes, is that the food was quite heavy.  The mole was especially delicious in that way only moles are.

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Wow! I'll bet you found it heavy seeing as you ate two main courses at one sitting. (I would have done the same thing if I'd been in town ) You have to go for it when you get the chance!

Where in Vegas did you have better? A casino resto or some little hole in the wall?

[BryanZ]

Not to stray too far off topic but the first time I really "got" Mexican cuisine was at the Border Grill at the Mandalay Bay. I think there's definitely some primacy effect going on, but it's my most memorable Mexican dining experience. It was totally unplanned and totally delicious. I also really like the fish tacos and fish burritos at Lone Star Taqueria and the moles at Red Iguana, both in Salt Lake City.

[molto e]

Michael Nagrant's Podcast with Rick Bayless

[molto e]

Food Critic Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle stopped by Frontera Grill:

The magic of Frontera Grill

[docsconz]

Food Critic Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle stopped by Frontera Grill:

The magic of Frontera Grill

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From the article:

We've all seen places that are hot for a while and then slowly fade into oblivion. It's heartening to find places like Frontera Grill -- and its upscale next door sister Topolobampo -- that has remained at the top of its game.

Even after 20 years, Frontera is still the one to beat on Mexican food.

FWIW, I agree.

[Kerry Beal]

Had a lovely dinner there last night. The duck breast taco - wonderful. Also enjoyed the Topolo margerita.

The thing I was most struck by was just how fabulous the food smelled upon entering the restaurant.

[molto e]

Had a lovely dinner there last night.  The duck breast taco - wonderful.  Also enjoyed the Topolo margerita. 

The thing I was most struck by was just how fabulous the food smelled upon entering the restaurant.

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The duck breast taco is great...I LOVE those Mexico City Quesadillas!

[KateinChicago]

Just got back from lunch at Frontera. I Hadn't been in a while and was planning to do something Irishish for St. Patrick's Day but the lines outside of Fado and Kerryman and O'Callahan's were unbelievable!! Frontera made a decidedly better choice.

Note to self: Stop after one Topolo margarita

Kate

[molto e]

Congratulations to Frontera Grill for winning the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant

[docsconz]

Congratulations to Frontera Grill for winning the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant

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Outstanding!

[BryanZ]

Stopped by Frontera this evening tonight for a late dinner.

Last time I was at Frontera was a couple months ago for brunch. This time I came in just before 10:30. It was a Saturday so the restaurant was still crowded, but I was the last to be seated in the main dining room. I sat at the counter, right next to the pass. A rather busy place to be, but I didn't mind. My new Blackberry makes a great date, wsj.com and all.

I had a blood orange margarita, duck carnitas enchilladas, and grilled chicken with amarillo mole. Having visited twice in the past couple months I won't say I'm totally in love with the place. The food is quite delicious, but I'm just not blown away. Perhaps predictably, inflated expectations probably have a lot to do with it. I should also probably start ordering some of the lighter dishes to see how the kitchen handles that kind of thing. Most of the time I'm so drawn to the heavier, meat-based offerings but find myself somewhat bored with them by the time I'm finishing up the dish. The margarita was quite delicious. The duck enchilladas tasted exaclty like one would imagine them to taste. The mole amarillo was nicely paired with a fennel and watercress salad that helped to draw out the herbaceous qualities of the mole. The roasted potatoes were kind of blah and seemed like filler.

[KateinChicago]

Stopped by Frontera this evening tonight for a late dinner.

I had a blood orange margarita, duck carnitas enchilladas, and grilled chicken with amarillo mole. Having visited twice in the past couple months I won't say I'm totally in love with the place. The food is quite delicious, but I'm just not blown away. Perhaps predictably, inflated expectations probably have a lot to do with it.

I used to be "totally in love" with this place but my last few visits have left me vaguely disappointed. There's nothing really wrong with the food but it seems rather boring. I remember having a grilled grouper with pumpkinseed mole and a grilled shrimp with poblano crema that had me spending hours trying to make them at home (successfully!) but the last dish I had on the Saturday brunch menu, an egg thing with tortillas was so listless and dull I couldn't be bothered to finish it. Interestingly, the bartender (I was eating at the bar as I was alone) sua sponte (I made no complaints) offered to bring me some salsas to add to the dish. I accepted and even these didn't help. I got the feeling that the bartender probably was in the habit of offering gratis salsas to bar dining patrons as a "fix".

"Best restaurant in America"? I'd say, decidedly, NOT! This makes me sad, in a way, because I've been a big fan over the years and have enjoyed cooking from the first two of Bayless's cookbooks. The mole I had in March was actually insipid and I have made much better moles at home using the recipes and guidelines from RB's cookbooks.

Kate

[molto e]

My Frontera Grill craving comes every now and again but satisfying it can be challenging due to the fact the restaurant is packed virtually every night it is open and has been that way for as long as I remember. With Frontera winning the Beard Award, I had to rectify that situation ASAP.

Menu

I usually start with the Topolo margarita

Topolo margarita...Sauza Conmemorativo, Gran Torres orange liquor and fresh lime juice shaken at the table

We started with a few apps to get the ball rolling...

Ceviche de Kampachi en Mojo de Ajo Verde- sashimi grade Kona Kampachi with a hint of smokiness , slow cooked green garlic, fresh lime and extra virgin olive oil; Bayless Garden baby greens

The balance between the citrus and the chile was spot on and perfectly complemented the kampachi.

Sopes Rancheros - crispy corn masa boats with savory shredded beef, roasted tomatoes, avocado, homemade fresh cheese

Tasty bites...

Quesadillas Capitalinas- Mexico City- style quesadillas (corn masa turnovers) with Samuel's locally crafted Jack cheese and fresh epazote: guacamole to daub

I love these things and whether I am eating at Frontera or next door at Topolobampo these little bites must be ordered. I bought one of Bayless's cookbooks to make these and a tortilla press but I still have not given them a run .

We had not ordered any other apps but after a couple of margaritas, we still needed one more...(oh, I should add that at this point the server figured that we were going to keep him shaking margaritas at our table all night so mysteriously a double came)

Taquitos de Pollo - crispy taquitos filled with chicken and poblanos with homemade sour cream, salsa verde, anejo cheese and guacamole

These were perfectly fried...crispy, crunchy and delicious.

Tacos al Carbon - Red chile marinated Maple Creek Pork (pastor style) with charcoaled pineapple, slab bacon and red onion (no rajas)...two salsas, frijoles, charros, guacamole and homemade tortillas

If I do not order these at least for the table to share then I always regret it. The problem is deciding which filling to choose and I was torn between the duck, skirt steak, chicken or pork. I wanted to split between two of them but that is not an option...so I ordered the pork as mentally I fought with myself whether I should also order one of the others. In fact, I felt the words forming in my mouth starting to place the order but some shred of self-control seemed to take hold. I am glad that I held back because after the apps this was the perfect amount of food.

Barbacoa de Borrego - red chile braised Crawford Farm lamb in banana leaves

This was my friend's entree and I stole a bite but I was into my tacos.

Pastel de Tres Leches Almendrado- almond cake infused with "three milks" (evaporated, condensed and almond horchata) in a bed of almond praline

I really did not need to order dessert but I can not pass on a Tres Leche cake when I know it will be a good one and IT WAS.

Frontera Grill is my favorite spot for authentic Mexican food made with high quality ingredients. I would go there more often if I could get in a bit easier.

Edited May 27, 2007 by molto e (log)