Tex-Mex Cooking with Robb Walsh

[bleachboy]

I've made a few recipes from this cookbook in the past, and all turned out good -- a few turned out great. I made the salsa verde just a week ago, in fact.

In the interest of science, though, I hereby vow to make one dish per week from this book and post it to this thread, starting tomorrow! (with photographs, yo)

[fifi]

I've made a few recipes from this cookbook in the past, and all turned out good -- a few turned out great.  I made the salsa verde just a week ago, in fact.

In the interest of science, though, I hereby vow to make one dish per week from this book and post it to this thread, starting tomorrow!   (with photographs, yo)

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Even though you did some of the recipes in the past, I would still be interested in your opinions of what you have cooked.

In the interest of science . . . You go, Don!

I forgot to take pictures but I made the Mango Salsa on page 254. In the past, I have left out the pineapple and maybe not had the ripest mango. This time I did it by the book. Tip . . . I was able to buy a small container of prepped fresh pineapple in the produce section of my grocery. In the past, I have not used the pineapple because I was avoiding the sweet notes and prepping a whole pineapple for a cup was too much trouble. My mango was nicely ripe and sweet. Actually, last time I made my black bean and mango salsa I used a ripe mango and it was noticeably better. Note to self: sometimes sweet is good.

Anyway, I did this one by the book to take to a friend's house. This was probably a historic moment . . . fifi makes salsa using measuring utensils. It was served with some very nice grilled shrimp. I am now a believer. I even used the cilantro. I hate the stuff but my friends love it. Actually, in this mix and the fact that the recipe doesn't call for that much, it wasn't bad. Maybe the fruit does something to it so that it doesn't taste as much like soap (to me). For the poblano and red bell pepper, I chose what I call a medium size, not the giant honkers. The only substitution I might make, just for the fun of it, is lime juice instead of lemon.

Too bad about the pictures. It is really a pretty dish on the plate. I forgot my camera and my friends' camera had a dead battery. There were no leftovers for me to bring home and shoot.

[Dana]

fifi-How did you know that was one of the next things on my list to try?!?! It's now moving to the top for next weekend. I'm going to fix the salsa with some grilled salmon - gotta get in those omega -3's. I bought a couple of mangos yesterday because they were pretty green-looking. I guess they ripen on the counter???

The tortilla soup was delish. Simple to prepare and so good.

One things about the migas. I used only one cup of tortilla chips for 2 eggs. I thought the 2 cups called for would be too much for just 2 eggs. That ratio was perfect.

[fifi]

Dana, I just sit mangos on the counter sort of like you would avocados. If you need to speed it up, put them in a paper bag with an apple. The apple will give off ethylene gas and the bag will keep it around to help ripen the mango. That is the theory, anyway. I sort of suspect that a mango gives off enough ethylene on its own and might do just as well in a bag without the apple. The one I used was ripe enough to be really sweet but wasn't mushy yet.

[bleachboy]

By the way, I just realized up there that I said I'd make a dish per week -- what I meant was, a dish every day this week.

Sorry that some of these pictures are blurry. I learned last night that to take photos of food without a flash, you really need to use a tripod.

So to kick off the week, yesterday I made a huge double batch of frijoles. I did not actually use the recipe from Robb Walsh's cookbook, as mine is better.. Errr.. Anyway, this is the recipe for a single batch. Yesterday, I made a double batch, since I intend to serve beans with everything. The photos are of a double batch. The recipe below is for a single batch.

Frijoles

1 pound dried pink beans (Flor de Mayo), rinsed and picked over

1 clove of garlic, smashed

1 white onion, quartered

2 teaspoons salt

8 cups water, more if needed

Dump everything but the salt into a pot and bring to a boil. Add the salt (yes, now) and reduce heat. Cover partially and simmer (on the high side), stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender, probably an hour or two. The onions and garlic will have pretty much disintegrated.

Next, I made the Chili Gravy from page 74 of the book.

I used Gebhardt's chili powder, and used peanut oil as the fat and Swanson's Organic Vegetable Broth as the liquid, since my wife is a vegetarian.

In the process, I made a few notes in my cookbook. First, one must work quickly, as doing this recipe over medium-high heat makes it easy to burn either the roux or the spices once added. Here was the finished result:

I have to admit I was disappointed with the flavor of this gravy. Though by no means nasty, it tasted a little sharp and bitter to me. A little more roundness to the flavor would have been nice. It probably would have been a lot better with lard and chicken stock. But we'll see how it tastes on some enchiladas in a little bit. When I make tamales later in the week, I'll make another batch of this with lard and chicken stock and compare the flavors.

At this point I was about three gimlets down, and the wife got home from her half-day shift at the library. She promptly proceeded to make Chuy's Mango Margaritas from page 229.

What a great drink! It would have been even better if we had hot weather yesterday, instead of unseasonal 55 degree weather. Oh, well. The mango/orange/lime combination tastes fantastic, and the texture of the drink was very nice -- most frozen drinks feel too icy to me. This one had a lovely velvety texture. I recommend this drink!

Time to make Frijoles Refritos (page 27) and assemble the Original Cheese Enchiladas (page 75).

If you made the frijoles according to my recipe, they should be salty enough, and you can safely omit the salt. We make our own refried beans around here quite a bit -- they are easy, and about fifty times better than canned refritos.

I made four cheese enchiladas in a little Le Creuset dish. For some reason I wasn't having any luck frying the tortillas to soften them -- it just crisped them up. So I nuked them for a few seconds to soften, then filled the enchiladas as specified (I used mild cheddar inside, sharp cheddar on top).

Wow! These look awfully cheesy in the photograph, but the chili gravy actually really helped cut through the richness of all that cheese, and the onions added a nice textural element and fantastic flavor. I admit, I was a little skeptical of all that cheddar cheese, but these definitely rank among the best cheese enchiladas I've tasted -- and as easy as the recipe is (especially if you already have some chili gravy on hand), I would definitely make these again! In fact, I may throw together some for lunch again today.

[fifi]

Ah, loverly, bleachboy.

I agree with you about chile gravy tasted on its own. I don't like it much either. I felt the same way about the version from page 106 that starts with dried anchos. But when it is combined with the other usual ingredients, it comes into its own. I also find that medium high heat on my crummy electric range is too high. I have to use medium to keep things under control.

[stephenc]

cool pics. But is it just me, or does Tex-mex food look really weird in white china. Something's just isn't right. I guess I'm used to seeing Tex-mex in cast-iron or earthtone ceramics.

Edited April 25, 2005 by stephenc (log)

[emmapeel]

cool pics.  But is it just me, or does Tex-mex food look really weird in white china.  Something's just isn't right.  I guess I'm used to seeing Tex-mex in cast-iron or earthtone ceramics.

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That's not china, it's a Le Creuset Gratin. By the way Fifi, it looks so good, I'll have to try it.

[Bella S.F.]

I would love to try something before I order the book. Would anyone be able to send me the recipe for the mingas? That sounds like a good place to start. (Unless someone has a better idea.) Thanks!

[FoodMan]

Am I the only one who actaully thought the chili gravy on page 74 tastes good on it's own? I use good pork or bacon fat and chicken stock (both manufactured in my kitchen) to make it. That could be the reason I guess.

BTW, those cheese enchilada's look perfect. I guess no Velveeta for you, huh .

Elie

[bleachboy]

Okay, so today I made a filling for the tamales I'm going to make tomorrow. The recipe I used was for Chile Colorado con Puerco (page 113). First off, this is kind of a wierd recipe. The first instruction tells you to preheat your oven to 350, presumably to help keep you warm while you simmer everything on the stove. The recipe also calls for five "dried red chiles" and eight ounces of "boneless pork". Huh? So, anyway, I used "New Mexico" chiles, which were the reddest ones in my pantry that didn't look like they were of the "small-and-they'll-fry-your-mouth" variety. For the "boneless pork" I used something that my local ethnic market called "PORK SHOULDER SLICE".

Apart from these nitpicky considerations, the recipe is very good.

The ingredients:

Browning the pork:

The finished product:

I think this will make a fantastic tamale filling. It's a little spicy, but not too spicy. It doesn't really have an in-your-face pork flavor, but like any porky-chili type thing, you take one bite then about half a minute later you say to yourself, "Damn, I sure would like another bite of that stuff". A good tamale should be like that -- no matter how many you eat, you still have room for just one more...

While I was in the kitchen -- and mostly because my wife wanted me to try it -- I also made the Molcajete Sauce from page 24. This is a fine recipe for a fine salsa, but nothing extraordinary. Your Rick Bayless or Diana Kennedy cookbook has a very similar recipe, I'm sure. A good mostly-raw salsa with minor "roasted" flavors.

Tamales tomorrow!

[Richard Kilgore]

All these dishes look great! Thanks for starting this Linda and Elie.

I decided to do lengua. Robb's recipe calls for one tongue, about 1 lb. I stopped by my regular taqueria and picked up a tongue, but it was almost three lbs! Does anyone know if there is a qualitative difference between a small and a large tongue?

It's in the crockpot. I'll have pics in the next day or so.

I also made quesadillas today, which are so simple they did not even merit a recipe in Robb's book...just a listing along with other Tex-Mex terms in the front. Two flour tortillas with Mexican cheese (this was even labelled quesadilla cheese) and thinly sliced roast chicken in between. Heated on both sides on an ungreased cast iron griddle until the cheese melted. Cut into quarter wedges. How simple.

[ludja]

...

The recipe also calls for five "dried red chiles" and eight ounces of "boneless pork".  Huh?  So, anyway, I used "New Mexico" chiles, which were the reddest ones in my pantry that didn't look like they were of the "small-and-they'll-fry-your-mouth" variety. 

...

Apart from these nitpicky considerations, the recipe is very good.

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Thanks for posting the pix bleachboy; definately an additional inducement to try this dish.

re: the red chiles, there is a description in the ingredients glossary on p. 10 that lists "red chiles". It then goes on to give other names-- Chile Colorado or red New Mexico chiles. Gives chile guajillo as a substitute.

To me, New Mexico chiles would also be the more unambigous term, but maybe it's a TexMex thang? i.e. the default for red chiles is the New Mexcian unless otherwise described...

Looking forward to hearing about Richard's foray into the lengua dish.

[bleachboy]

I decided to do lengua. Robb's recipe calls for one tongue, about 1 lb. I stopped by my regular taqueria and picked up a tongue, but it was almost three lbs! Does anyone know if there is a qualitative difference between a small and a large tongue?

It's in the crockpot. I'll have pics in the next day or so.

You've got balls, sir! I actually order a taco lengua almost every time I go to my local Mexican restaurant, and I really like it. It's really more of a texture thing than a flavor thing -- If you enjoy that "tonguey" texture, which I do. Are you going to give it a quick fry or something before serving, though? The tacos I get usually have a little bit of texture right on the outside, as though they were re-browned or fried or something before they go on the tortillas.

Two flour tortillas with Mexican cheese (this was even labelled quesadilla cheese) and thinly sliced roast chicken in between.

That cheese is actually good, despite the generic-sounding name. I recently took a cooking class with a Mexican lady (she's from wherever they make Cotijo cheese -- I mentioned it and she got all proud, and rightfully so) and she used that stuff liberally. It works on nachos, too.

[SethG]

...At this point I was about three gimlets down, and the wife got home from her half-day shift at the library.  She promptly proceeded to make Chuy's Mango Margaritas from page 229...

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Dude, that is beautiful. You have obviously found yourself the perfect relationship. If only my wife would come home from work, find me cooking and drinking, and promptly fix me a cocktail-- an appropriately themed cocktail, no less!-- well, I don't know what I'd do. You guys clearly have it all figured out.

Nice food, too. I might get that book and join this party.

[Richard Kilgore]

I decided to do lengua. Robb's recipe calls for one tongue, about 1 lb. I stopped by my regular taqueria and picked up a tongue, but it was almost three lbs! Does anyone know if there is a qualitative difference between a small and a large tongue?

It's in the crockpot. I'll have pics in the next day or so.

You've got balls, sir! I actually order a taco lengua almost every time I go to my local Mexican restaurant, and I really like it. It's really more of a texture thing than a flavor thing -- If you enjoy that "tonguey" texture, which I do. Are you going to give it a quick fry or something before serving, though? The tacos I get usually have a little bit of texture right on the outside, as though they were re-browned or fried or something before they go on the tortillas.

Two flour tortillas with Mexican cheese (this was even labelled quesadilla cheese) and thinly sliced roast chicken in between.

That cheese is actually good, despite the generic-sounding name. I recently took a cooking class with a Mexican lady (she's from wherever they make Cotijo cheese -- I mentioned it and she got all proud, and rightfully so) and she used that stuff liberally. It works on nachos, too.

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I usually order a taco de lengua when eating at my favorite local taqueria, Latino Market. (Click here to go to A Gringo in Taqueria Land) The texture of lengua varies depending on who's cooking and how long it has been on the line, but at Latino Market it tends to be more in the direction of fall apart tender. On the other hand, at a small place down the street, El Jalapeno, the chef has serious knife skills and the lengua is cut in precise 1/4 inch cubes that are firm, though tender, and not cooked as long. I like both; they're just different.

[Jaymes]

I decided to do lengua. Robb's recipe calls for one tongue, about 1 lb. I stopped by my regular taqueria and picked up a tongue, but it was almost three lbs!

You've got balls, sir! I actually order a taco lengua almost every time I go to my local Mexican restaurant, and I really like it. It's really more of a texture thing than a flavor thing -- If you enjoy that "tonguey" texture, which I do.

Actually I grew up with a tongue almost always in the fridge. And I mean other than my own.

My father, the gourmet in the family, really liked tongue sandwiches, so he boiled calves tongues in the Dutch oven. He put various spices in the boiling water, but usually a few cloves, bay leaves, sprigs of rosemary, peppercorns.

I remember opening the fridge and having to avoid looking at the huge, curled thing. It was very high on a young girl's 'eeeeeuuuuw' scale.

[fifi]

The quesadilla cheese that Richard is referring to is from Cheesemakers Inc. here in Texas. I found out about them at the Spec's Cheese Festival. Scroll down to get a picture of the Production Managers. They list Whole Foods as one of their distributors so perhaps it is available outside of Texas. The Jaimito brand quesadilla cheese is just about the best melting cheese I have ever had. I can't wait to make some enchiladas with it.

[bleachboy]

Here in Nashville, anyway, "quesadilla cheese" is available everywhere. It's usually right there with at least ten other types of fresh cheese and usually about four different types of crema. I'm lucky, I suppose, because I live about five minutes away from undoubtedly the largest Mexican community within hundreds of miles. I can get just about any Mexican ingredient, even the wierd meats. :)

So on my cooking project, tonight I'm making the tamales. I'm not actually going to start until 8:30, as that's when my wife will get home from work, and I don't want to have to do all the tamale rollin' myself.

I've had the corn husks soaking since early last night, so they should be ready in time. I plan to follow the recipe in the Robb Walsh book, but the rolling instructions are a little vague. I think Marissa will be a good help there, since she's good at that crafty sort of thing. :)

The recipe says it makes 24 tamales, although I may go ahead and make a double order, if I can get to the grocery store by about 6pm (to pick up some ingredients for salsa verde and some chicken -- then I can make half pork, half chicken).

Any tips on tamale manufacture?

[Dana]

There is a tamale thread somewhere around here, or maybe in the TX thread. fifi probably can find it. Anyway, having tamale rolling partner is the most important. Everything goes twice as fast

I take a corn husk, place in in the palm of my hand, wide side at the bottom of my hand and narrow side at my fingers. Put a good sized scoop of masa on the shuck and spread it evenly over the palm area (I use a butter knife, and I don't like it too thick.), leaving a inch or so at the bottom so you can fold it up. Spread the filling in a line vertically near one edge and roll up. It's ok if the masa overlaps a bit. Fold the ends over so none of the good stuff falls out. Stack in steamer. Steam as directed. HOpefully someone else will weigh in here and clairfy my instructions. I am no writer.

Have fun and good luck!!!!

[snowangel]

We need a photo essay by someone brave on tamale making!

Question. I now have this book, courtesy of my library (renew it three times and I have to buy the book, and I can see that this will fit that bill).

I live in a suburban area that has a market that as a good selection of fresh peppers, but virtually no Mexican (other than Pace and Ortega) selection.

I note that a few recipes call for "red peppers" or "dried red peppers."

I will be near a quite good Mexican grocery tomorrow. A short grocery list, please, that will make it easier to use this book?

[bleachboy]

First off, thanks, Dana, for the advice. Since my last post, I read my other Mexican cookbooks on the art of tamale rollin', and I think I should be good to go. I hope.

Also since my last post, I whipped up two more recipes from "the book" to use in my second batch of tamales. Salsa Verde (page 94) and Stewed Chicken (page 90). I didn't take any photographs while cooking, firstly because both recipes involve complicated cooking techniques such as "boiling water" and "putting things in a pot" and "pureeing them in a blender" which most eGulleters are familiar with, and secondly because my camera's battery was dead.

The Salsa Verde I have made before, and it's tasty as always. I like this Salsa Verde recipe especially because it doesn't call for chicken broth (most do), and my wife appreciates being able to eat the things I cook.

The Stewed Chicken recipe, however, I was a bit skeptical about, mostly because -- hey, I know how to stew chicken. But in the interest of science (as always!) I went ahead and followed the recipe to the letter. Hey, this is pretty damn good! The cumin in the recipe actually lended a very tasty "Mexican flair" to the flavor of the chicken (at least, the tiny outside piece that I nibbled on to check the flavor).

I saved the cooking liquid to use in the tamales -- it yielded about two quarts of broth -- and given the two tablespoons of powdered chicken boullion called for in the recipe (which is mostly MSG, at least the Mexican variety that I had on hand) it should make for an especially addictive tamale.

I will carefully document the tamale making process tonight, I promise. Given that I have never made them before, though, I can't promise the most beautiful results. I can guarantee, though, that the fillings made thus far (Chile Colorado con Puerco and Stewed Chicken with Salsa Verde) have been delicious, so as long as the rest of the process goes well, success is assured! Chin up!

[bleachboy]

I note that a few recipes call for "red peppers" or "dried red peppers."

I will be near a quite good Mexican grocery tomorrow.  A short grocery list, please, that will make it easier to use this book?

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I can't quite give you a grocery list, but I can clear up the "red pepper" thing, mostly because I ran into the same quandry a little bit upthread.

For "red chiles", look for "New Mexico" chiles. They're probably in a cellophane bag with a yellow and red label, mixed in with all kinds of other Mexican dried chiles and stuff. Look in the "international foods" section of your supermarket. They're about 4-5 inches long and relatively red (for a dried chile -- they all kind of look black). When I made the Chile Colorado con Puerco, it called for "red chiles" and I randomly used the "New Mexico" chiles, because they looked the reddest. ludja later filled me in on the fact that these are mentioned in the glossary -- doh! I should read better! Luckily, I picked the right chile.

[bleachboy]

However, if I were to go to the grocery store with the idea of making Mexican food, but no particular goal, these are the type of things I would buy -- note that I have a huge selection of dried chiles and spices, so I'll include vague recommendations, but buy something that piques your interest.

- A dozen limes

- A bag of onions

- A dozen tomatillos

- A dozen roma tomatoes

- A bunch of cilantro

- A couple of bags of dried chiles -- maybe New Mexico and Guajillo

- A dozen fresh chiles (jalapenos, if you're mild, or serranos, if you're hot)

- A bag of fresh corn tortillas

- A bag of dried Flor de Mayo beans (pink Mexican beans)

- A small container of lard

- A bag of tortilla chips

This is about what I bought at the beginning of this week, and haven't needed to go back to the store too much, apart from the trip to buy the corn husks, which I forgot. :P

[fifi]

Interesting that I have never used the New Mexico red chiles. For dried chiles I always use anchos as a base, perhaps adding some others to adjust the heat level.