Reading Terminal Market (Part 1)

[mrbigjas]

i've seen veal shanks at martin's relatively frequently.

preserved lemons... if you can make another stop they sell preserved lemons at dibrunos, about eight blocks away.

(edited to remove musing, because rlibkind knows better than i do)

Edited March 9, 2006 by mrbigjas (log)

[rlibkind]

It just didn't seem right that Tommy DiNic (or most other roast port sandwich purveyors) would use pork shoulder: the bone structure would require serious labor, a lot of fat to drain off, etc. A delicious part of the pig, but not conducive to a high-volume sandwich operation.

So, this morning I put it directly to Tommy DiNicosia, proprietor. The answer: Fresh ham. Easy to slice and serve on sandwiches. He uses shoulder for the bbq sandwiches, since it's just a matter of shredding, not slicing.

For those whose enjoyment of the pork sandwich messages has been vicarious, here's a photo of DiNic's:

Tommy DiNic's

As to veal shanks, yes, mrbigjas, Martin's had them today, at $12.99/pound.

At Iovine's, my bellwether bell pepper price survey: greens and reds 99 cents, oranges $1.49, yellows $1.99. Florida strawberries (packed in S.C.) $1 for a pound clamshell. Kumquats down to $3.99/pound. New to the vacuum-sealed racks: minced garlic in olive oil ($1 for maybe three tablespoons' worth), whole roasted garlic cloves done with olive olive ($5.99/pound). Navel oranges up to 3/$1, Meyers lemons to 2/$1. Also new this week: cactus pears, a.k.a. prickly pears, $1 apiece; makes great base for margaritas. Slightly large scallions were 3/$1.

I didn't spot much new at the fish and meat purveyors, though Golden, I believe, had filet of bronzino for $9.99 (whole fish $6.99). At John Yi, Boston mackeral $1.49, Spanish $1.99.

Related to the deckel thread: I asked Harry Ochs what cut he thought of when I said "deckel". His iimmediate response was the fatty art of the brisket, but when I told him some people were referring to the fatty part around a rib roast/steak, he said, yes, that, too, is called deckel.

My guess is we're still three or four weeks away from the earliest of the spring produce, i.e., ramps, morels (the ones Iovine's have now seem just a tad on the hard/dry side), etc.

[rlibkind]

Most readers of my missives here would think there's only one produce vendor at the RTM. At one point there were three full service produce vendors (not counting the seasonal offerings by both farmers and merchants who primarily sell other food products). Today, only only other major produce vendor is at the market every day: OK Lee.

Although there are exceptions, OK Lee's prices tend to be slightly higher than Iovines and it's quality, though generally quite good, just slightly less impeccable. Both of these characteristics are probably due to volume: OK Lee is a smaller store and doesn't sell nearly as much as Iovines.

But OK Lee frequently offers what Iovine's doesn't, or offers it in a more acceptable way. Today, for example, you could get fresh Poblano peppers at OKL ($1.99/pound), but not at Iovine's. Where Iovine's offered bell peppers at 99-cents for green, red and orange varieties, OK Lee was 79-cents for green, $1.49 for red and $2.99 for orange (and $2.99 for yellow, which were $1.99 at Iovine's).

The price for Haas avocados from Mexico has finally dropped: 99-cents at OKL and a buck even at Iovine. Comparative lemon prices: three for a buck at OKL, four for a buck at Iovine.

Best produce deal I spied today: those Plant City, Florida, strawberries, back in one-pound clamshell cases at Iovine. One U.S. Greenback. And they are red, ripe and delicious.

Other interesting fruit: very ripe and ready Altaulfo mangos a buck apiece and mandarin oranges $8.95 for a five-pound box, both at Iovine.

This time last year, Iovine had fiddleheads from the Pacific Northwest. None this year. Jimmy Iovine said it will be a few more weeks 'til the fiddleheads and ramps appear.

Tried a new cheese at Salumeria today: Borough Market Cheshire, which the cheese-monger said was distributed by Neal's Yard. Though I'm not at all confident of the provenance, it is a good cheese, with a slightly sour tang making it all the more interesting.

[Bluehensfan]

I've been happy with the produce from O.K. Lee. The place is much smaller than Iovine's but if you need an item in a hurry, it's a good place to go. They also have kimchee if you're looking for that as well.

Well market goers can breathe easier this week now that the Flower Show is over.

That DiNic's sign in the photo is new in the last month...

[MarketStEl]

That DiNic's sign in the photo is new in the last month...

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As is their location, right off the central court next to the Spice Terminal.

Welcome to eGullet, Delawarean!

[mrbigjas]

That DiNic's sign in the photo is new in the last month...

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As is their location, right off the central court next to the Spice Terminal.

what? they've been there forever.

[MarketStEl]

That DiNic's sign in the photo is new in the last month...

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As is their location, right off the central court next to the Spice Terminal.

what? they've been there forever.

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ISTR DiNic's being further back, by where Braverman's used to be, but my memory has played tricks on me in the past. I do vaguely recall seeing on one of the posts dealing with changes in the merchant mix that DiNic's was one of those being reshuffled.

[rlibkind]

Iovines still had those buck a box Florida berries today. Still very good for an industrial berry. Jimmy Iovine joked that he got on the PA Friday and shouted to his customers; "Strawberries, a dollar box. Limited to 20 boxes a customer." The Indian River red grapefruit, at two for a dollar, were heavy with juice and delicious.

Here's something you don't see too often: the wild striped bass at John Yi's were selling for $3.99 today, but the farmed bass was $4.99. The farmed fish is actually a cross between striped bass (a.k.a. rockfish) and white bass. Sardines back at Golden Seafood, $2.99/pound.

A sign and some equipment have been positioned at Flying Monkey Patisserie. Someday soon...

Under the auspices of the White Dog Foundation, growers and producers confabbed with potential buyers (restaurants, etc.) at the market earlier this week. They object: to make deals. RTM Manager Paul Steinke said a similar session may be held during the growing season.

[rlibkind]

ISTR DiNic's being further back, by where Braverman's used to be, but my memory has played tricks on me in the past.  I do vaguely recall seeing on one of the posts dealing with changes in the merchant mix that DiNic's was one of those being reshuffled.

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DiNic's is staying put, Sandy. Spataro's is moving to where the Sandwich Stand had been. A Jewish-style deli replaces Spataro's. The new occupant of the Braverman's space will be Flying Monkey Patisserie.

Edited March 19, 2006 by rlibkind (log)

[Bluehensfan]

Thanks for the welcome!

DiNic's is where it always was but they added a new sign last month (as seen in the photograph).

This week I noticed that the Flying Monkey Patisserie (where Braverman's was) now has a sign up as well as a few display cases and an oven. It seems like their permit application must have been approved!

Also, for the past four Saturdays or so, there have been people selling cans of seafood soup (like clam chowder, crab soup, etc.) across from Fisher's Pretzels. We tried some and they were just ok...

Finally, Termini's has been selling St. Josephs cakes, a pastry filled with Italian cream for a few weeks also. Worth trying if you have the calories to spare. They also had good shortbread shamrock cookies for St. Patrick's Day.

[Judd Icious Hand]

I just had my first DiNic's roasted prok sandwich. And quite possibly, the best sandwich of any type I have ever had.

Thinnly sliced, moist and tender roasted roasted pork on a fresh crusty torpedo roll that more than held it's own against the au jus. Top that sandwich with a super sharp provolone, leafy greens and voila, you have manna from heaven. I will indulge in the red pep topping next go around.

Very few things in life live up to their hype, DiNic's surpasses it.

RTM is a treasure. The quality of 'street' foods amassed there is quite remarkable.

Edited March 20, 2006 by Judd Icious Hand (log)

[TarteTatin]

This morning I had the opportunity to be at the Terminal at 8:30 a.m.

Had breakfast at the Down Home Diner, at the counter. (The Dutch eating place isn't open on Tuesdays) It was nice and quiet, I don't like it when its too busy at the Down Home. The service gets slow and sometimes there's attitude. But this morning was good.

I had Corn Hoe Cakes. They were like Pancakes, made with corn, I believe, and lots of whole kernels of corn. It came with maple turkey sausage links. I put butter and syrup on, and it was good!

Nothing was open at 9:00 for me to take my lunch to work.

I did buy some okay looking leeks at Iovine, 2 lbs for $1.00, mushrooms, spinach, potatoes, tomatoes, are all $1.00. It seems they're packing things up that way. The bartlett pears looked good...

Got a couple of Delmonico's at Och's for a special dinner...other than that, the Terminal was really quiet.

[katbert]

I'm dogsitting out in the burbs this week (hi Mummer!) and have access to a car, so I stopped by RTM to take advantage of $2 CC parking.

$12.25 at Iovines produced cauliflower (for the perpetual roast cauliflower thread over on the cooking board), two of the $1 strawberry clamshells, half a pint of blackberries, a giant yam, a plastic pack of 2-3 lb of new potatoes, some fabulous oranges, two portobello caps (to recreate the roast portobello topped w/ goat cheese studded w/ toasted pine nuts, balsamic+evoo appetizer at Melograno), some bananas and a pair of green mangos (hard as a rock, but I can wait). This blew away my friend from NYC, who is used to arm & a leg prices.

Yay for not living at the center of the universe!

[KatieLoeb]

My big find today was organic asparagus thin fresh horseradish root at Fair Food Farmstand. Looking forward to making some "take-off-the-top-of-your-head" horseradish for Passover next week.

Iovine's also had some nice loose beets for roasting. Some are going in a salad with some nice goat cheese and crumbled Carles Roquefort (really the sweetest and most delicious Roquefort EVER) from DiBruno's that will be dressed with Hazelnut Oil and Gegenbauer PX Vinaigrette and the rest will be coloring the horseradish.

Mangos were $1 at Iovine's, and there were also clamshells of "stemberries", gargantuan begging-to-be-dipped-in-chocolate strawberries with the stems still attached for $1.99. Bought three $1 "grab bags" of roma tomatoes that are roasting for sauce as I type this. Also got a $1 bag of various colored bell peppers and a small tray of portobellos for the sauce. Good stuff at Iovine's today!

[rlibkind]

Thanks for the report, Katie. I've been out of town pretty much since my last entry, but I can't wait to get back to the market next week and see what has arrived for spring. Gotta be ramps soon! That beet salad with the Carles Roquefort sounds delish!

[KatieLoeb]

Thanks for the report, Katie. I've been out of town pretty much since my last entry, but I can't wait to get back to the market next week and see what has arrived for spring. Gotta be ramps soon! That beet salad with the Carles Roquefort sounds delish!

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My pleasure, Bob! I've missed your reports and felt the need to fill in the gap since I went specifically on a produce hunting mission. Since the $2 parking was in effect, I had time to go compare prices at OK Lee for the beets and Iovines was .20 cheaper and still had some small sweet ones left. Definitely worth the trip.

I'm having the beet salad tomorrow evening with a piece of grilled salmon. Trying to eat healthy these days. To counteract all the drinking, of course...

[rlibkind]

Ramps are back! Iovine's had small bunches today selling for $3.99 -- that gets you about 10 slim ramps with leaves, enough to flavor a salad or seafood dish for two to four eaters, depending upon how much they love ramps. You'll find them back in the corner by the bok choy and greens.

Another sign of spring: morels. They were $69.99/pound. I passed them by in favor of the tray-wrapped bargain shitakes and a couple of big domestic whites. A warning: while Iovine's tray-wrapped specials are often very good deals, it ain't necessarily so. For example, the domestic whites priced at $1 a bag on the "bargain" rack weigh out at about half a pound, which is hardly different from to the bin price of $1.99/pound

Also at Iovine's, navel oranges priced at six for a dollar. They seemed light, even for their size, which means not too much juice. In judging citrus fruit, it's best to find specimens that are heavy for their size. Hass avocados were $1 each, and limes are down to 3/$1. Bell pepper price survey: greens, reds and yellows $0.99; however, the only ones in the bin were the greens and the pricier orange bell peppers. Perhaps they'll restock Wednesday.

In the fish aisles, there was no carp in the bathtub, but there was some on ice ($2.99 at John Yi and Golden), as well as pike at $6.95 (Yi) and whitefish ($6.99 at Yi, $5.99 at Golden). So go ahead, make gefilte fish. Or shad: bucks going for $1.99, roe shad for $3.49 at Yi's.

[rlibkind]

Price of morels a relative bargain today, a mere $54.99 a pound at Iovine's, compared to the $69.99 price earlier in the week. The quality was better, too. Porcini also less expensive at $44.99/pound, Still, that's an awful lot to pay for a fungi. Bell pepper survey: greens 99 cents, reds $1.99, yellows $3.99, oranges $4.99. Gargantuan clamshells of end-of-season (in Chile) seedless green grapes, each containing four pounds and selling for $1.99; not the sweetest or most flavorful Chilean grapes I've had this season, but decent enough at that price.

Throughout the winter, Iovine's has carried "Vidalia" onions. Of course, they weren't. They came from Mexico or other growing areas, but not from Vidalia, Georgia. Growers in other parts have learned the secret of the Vidalia (it's the composition of the soil) and they've done a good job of mimicing it to produce a very sweet, low sulfur onion. But if you want the original, it's available again and for the next couple of months. Iovine's had them today at 99-cents/pound. When you buy them, use them quickly. And for heaven's sake, don't cook with them. They are meant to be eaten raw, preferrably on a very rare hamburger.

I picked up the ramps today and paired a bunch with half a pound (six ounces would have been sufficient for a single serving) of dry sea scallops ($15.99/pound at Golden vs. $16.99 at John Yi). Delish! Sauteed the white parts of the ramp until soft, then added the leaves to the hot pan and set aside. Dusted the scallops with flour and quickly sauteed in butter, no more than 90-120 seconds a side. Then plated over rice with the ramps. A nice Bernkasteller Riesling completed the dinner.

Earl Livengood is now selling pork. Hard to imagine it will taste better than the Country Time sold at the Fair Food Project, but I purchased a couple of chops to try. Earl expects to be at the outdoor markets (South Street on Tuesdays, Fairmount on Thursdays) beginning in mid-May when the asparagus and strawberries come into season here. Today his dandelion greens and broccoli rabe looked good, as did the turnips and tiny rutabagas; the potatoes, however, look like they are at the end of their storage life.

Lancaster County Dairy (along Arch Street side behind Golden Seafood) carries excellent heavy cream -- pasteurized, not ultra-pasteurized. They also carry the Pequea Valley Dairy Farm yogurt line, as does Fair Food Project.

Salumeria ran out of gruyere by the time I stopped by at 9:45 a.m. Since I didn't want to also go to Downtown today, I picked up some Emmenthaler instead for a potato au gratin I plan to make tomorrow.

[mrbigjas]

Lancaster County Dairy (along Arch Street side behind Golden Seafood) carries excellent heavy cream -- pasteurized, not ultra-pasteurized. They also carry the Pequea Valley Dairy Farm yogurt line, as does Fair Food Project.

i've had to mostly stop buying from them--the last several times i've bought milk it's gone bad before its printed expiration date. i mean, i take it home and three or four days later it's all funky. and not that long ago i got a bottle that was bad when i got it home.

i don't know if it's the lack of ultra-pasteurization you mention, or if their fridge is on its last legs or what, but stuff from there just doesn't last all that long. i mean, i know, it's dairy, it's not supposed to last that long. but their product seems to go bad especially quickly.

here's another reason i noticed this: pequea valley yogurt. for some reason their black cherry flavor goes bad much more quickly than the other flavors. i don't know why it is, but you have to get it pretty fresh. last time we looked for it at LCD, we had a problem finding one that didn't already have a puffed up lid. i mean, there were 10 of them right there on the shelf, with the lid all puffed up. it doesn't make me confident to buy raw goat milk there.

i still buy their buttermilk though. since it's already cultured, buttermilk especially lasts a good long time before it goes bad.

[rlibkind]

Lancaster County Dairy (along Arch Street side behind Golden Seafood) carries excellent heavy cream -- pasteurized, not ultra-pasteurized. They also carry the Pequea Valley Dairy Farm yogurt line, as does Fair Food Project.

i've had to mostly stop buying from them--the last several times i've bought milk it's gone bad before its printed expiration date. i mean, i take it home and three or four days later it's all funky. and not that long ago i got a bottle that was bad when i got it home.

i don't know if it's the lack of ultra-pasteurization you mention, or if their fridge is on its last legs or what, but stuff from there just doesn't last all that long. i mean, i know, it's dairy, it's not supposed to last that long. but their product seems to go bad especially quickly.

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I have had that problem with their milk, so I usually don't buy it except in a pinch. But I haven't had any problem with the cream. Then again, when I buy cream I've got a specific purpose in mind and usually use it within a day or two.

Ultra-pasteurization will keep milk and cream drinkable for eons, and if it's in the right container it doesn't even have to be kept refrigerated. However, it tastes awful compared to the fresh stuff.

The only Pequea Valley Yogurt I buy is plain, and I haven't had a problem. I'd rather add my own fruit, even if it's frozen. (Frozen wild blueberries are my standard; they are as good as fresh in yogurt, maybe even better because they are softer.)

I saw a sign that they are now carrying raw cow's milk. Given their inability to keep commercial pasteurized milk one has to wonder about the advisability of purchasing raw milk from them.

[rlibkind]

Local asparagus has arrived, and based on the bunch I obtained at the Fair Food Farmstand today, it will be a great season. It was selling for $4 a bunch. Benuel Kaufman also had asparagus at $3.75/bunch (two for $6). Both stands also offered local spinach. I took a taste of the flatleaf spinach offered by FF and it was buttery and sweet. I would expect Earl Livengood will have good examples of both spinach and asparagus on Saturday.

Over at Iovine's, last week bargain and delicious mangos ($1 for a mango weighing about 9-10 ounces) were not to be found, but melons were much in evidence: smallish seeded watermelons, about 8-inches diameter, were $2.99 each; Charentais melons from the Dominican Republic were selling at $4.99 each. Price of Hass avocadoes up to $1.29 apiece. Porcini $44.95, Morels $54.99. Black trumpet and yellow foot chantarelles $34.99. Bell pepper survey: greens and reds 99-cents, yellows $3.99, oranges $4.99.

My protein for the day was some excellent quality halibut steaks from John Yi, $9.99 pound. They were best I've seen since a trip to Alaska last spring: firm, tight flesh, snowy white. I grilled them simply (just brushing with a little soy sauce and lime juice before oiling). Accompanied by that asparagus (also grilled) and fruited couscous, made with little bits of dried pineapple, papaya, ginger, apricot and raisins from Iovines.

Also making it's first appearance of the year: soft shell crab. John Yi's had 'em at $5 apiece. (BTW, Golden also had halibut, it was pricier at $12.99 and not nearly as good looking.) King salmon at John Yi's also looked good, $12.99; thinner but still decent-looking king at Golden for $11.99. We're still working off frozen stocks, however, and won't see fresh Pacific salmon until about mid-May.

A friend brought over some lemon Stilton the other day. Now, if you're a stinky cheese person like me, you might dismiss this as a novelty. And so it is. It's a cheese for folks whose taste in aged, coagulated milk usually doesn't get past pepper jack, but there's no denying it has a certain appeal. Think of fermented milky water ice. At about $12/pound at Saluermia, try a small wedge and prepare to be surprised. No one will mistake it for a fine blue or savory sheep cheese, but it's fun and tasty. (Just don't ask me what wine to drink with it; you might want to consider Cherry Champ soda.)

[mrbigjas]

(Just don't ask me what wine to drink with it; you might want to consider Cherry Champ soda.)

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believe me, i would if i could

[rlibkind]

Another sign of spring today: lilacs for sale by Earl Livengood.

At $14.95 a bunch, however, I passed them by. Besides the scent, which is usually overpowering, was fairly weak. Maybe next week the aroma will be more intense and the price lower.

More tempting at Earl's was the produce: rhubarb. spinach, dandelion, poke, asparagus.

Local tomatoes have made their appearance. Well, kind of. Both Benuel Kaufman and the Fair Food Farmstand were offering "soil grown" local tomatoes. That means, grown in a greenhouse in eastern Pennsylvania but not hydroponic.

Bell pepper benchmarks: over at OK Lee, three peppers in a bag (mix of green and red with an occasional yellow) for 99-cents.

Ramps remain in evidence at Iovine's, as well as morels:

The ramps were of excellent quality. The morels were pretty good, too, but have started to dry out. (Guess I was spoiled last year when I was in Wisconsin during morel season and bought some at the Dane County Farmers Market in Madison.)

Iovines is now selling spinach produced by their contract farmer, $1 for a bag. That bag, however, will only serve one when the spinach is cooked. If you've got more than one mouth to feed, Iovine will sell you a very large bag, the equivalent of 10 of the little bags, for $6. Same goes for the spring mix, according to Vinnie Iovine. Those bargain late season Chilean grapes still available, this time two-pound bags for 99-cents.

I didn't notice anything new the fish stalls today, other than that $9.99/pound fresh halibut at John Yi's still looked good.

According to the monthly letter distributed by RTM Manager Paul Steinke, posted about two weeks ago, Flying Monkey Patisserie was to be open on or about April 20. It wasn't, and it looks like there's at least a bit more work to do. A home-sized Kitchen Aid mixer, however, is sitting on the counter.

Paul's monthly letter also stated that Hershel's East Side Deli projects a June opening. They'll occupy Spataro's spot once the latter moves across the aisle from Tommy DiNic's. That letter also notes that attorneys for the Merchants Association and RTM management have pretty much come to terms on the language for the new lease agreements. Of course, it's not over until they all sign on the dotted line.

I heard it on the grapevine: Charlie Giunta, who used to work with his brother Martin (Martin's Quality Meat and Sausage), then opened a pork stall and subsequently left for food sales, plans a return to the market, specializing in organic meats. He would occupy the A.A. Halteman space. (A.A. Halteman is working on a monthly lease.)

[rlibkind]

The sight of those $4.99 apiece Charentais melons at Iovine's last week put me in a melon mood, so when I saw "heritage" cantaloupes from Guatemala at $1.99 each, I asked Jimmy Iovine to pick me one. Well, I didn't think they were "heritage", since they looked more like a hybrid (cantaloupe netting, but charantais green stripes). Jimmy picked a ripe one for me, but when I cut into it and tried it this evening, it was relatively flavorless, even for a subtle melon. It did have a touch (just a touch) of sweetness, but the texture was a tad off, with a slight but detectible mealiness. It also didn't have much edible flesh for its size (about two pounds). Maybe I'll try the Galias next time, also priced at $1.99 apiece Thursday.

Another springtime treat found at Iovine's today: fiddleheads, tray-packed at $9.99/pound. They looked pretty fresh without too much "paper", unlike the ramps, which are getting long-in-the-tooth. The specimens today had bulbs that looked fine, but the leaves were fading fast.

Sitting next to the fiddleheads (same aisle as the exotic mushrooms) were tray-packed baby artichokes, $1.99/pound. Bell pepper survey: greens and yellows 99-cents, reds $1.49, oranges $4.99. California strawberries $1.49 for a one pound clamshell (at this point I'm holding off for a few more weeks 'til the local berries start coming in). Great looking flat green beans, $1.49 pound.

I haven't seen Sam Consylman, Earl Livengood's neighbor and ace forager, since last fall. Maybe he's out foraging something good for us. I'll have to check Saturday morning.

In my last post I observed a home-sized Kitchen Aid mixer on the counter at the Flying Monkey Patisserie stall, which is still not open. But they are getting close: much more equipment now in place, including a commercial mixer, as well as baking supplies. Looks like they'll be opening soon.

Now, a new game: What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should. I'm not talking about very esoteric or rare items, like ortolans. But basic foodstuffs.

Let's start with the most basic of basic foodstuffs: bread. My first nominee for What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should is a good kaiser roll, those crispy crust but light interior sandwich rolls. Forget about Metropolitan and LeBus, neither offer them. Likewise, nothing even close at Bieler's, the Pennsylvania Dutch bakery. Maybe that new Jewish style deli scheduled to open in June will offer them, along with some real lox (the salty, unsmoked kind, a.k.a. "belly"). Actually, it's hard to find a decent kaiser anywhere. Sometimes I find one that has an okay interior, but lacks the necessary thin, crackly exterior because they were put in plastic right out of the oven. Does Kaplan's New Model Bakery on North Third have them?

What's your nominee for What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should?

[Bobby 2 Shakes]

I nominate lobster rolls. Like the ones they had at Yann's patisserie.