Daily Food Shopping in Paris

[docsconz]

I will be following my meal at El Bulli with a five night stay in Paris with my family towards the end of the summer. We will be renting an apartment in the the 10th arrondisement with what appears to be a very nice kitchen. While I plan on eating out one meal per day, I would also like to eat-in for breakfast and either lunch or dinner. I look forward to shopping for good fresh French ingredients and baked goods. Any tips on shopping around a tourist's schedule?

[hazardnc]

I will not profess to be an expert here, but on the two trips I have made to Paris, my family rented an apartment in the Marais (the 4th near the place du Voges) and we ate in for breakfast and dinner often in order to save money.

I suggest you check out these books for guides to shopping:

Boulangerie: A Pocket Guide to Paris's Famous Bakeries

Paris in a Basket: Markets : The Food and the People

Food Lover's Guide to Paris, 4th edition

The open air markets are open on various days of the week, so you should try to plan ahead to make sure you get to visit the markets that top your list. Here is a scedule: Food markets You need to shop early for the best selection, plus most markets close around mid day.

The food markets are wonderful places to shop for fresh produce, eggs, cheeses, seafood and more. My favorite was the Richard Lenior market in the 11th near Metro Bastille. We would arrive early and buy fresh pan au thyme (the Middle Eastern flat bad with zatar) to nibble on while we shopped. Of course, this market was within walking distance of our flat.

For the more routine shopping, the Monoprix grocery chain offered a great selection and better prices than the small, local shops. Monoprix in the 10th

When in France, do as the French do. Buy a fresh baguette daily. Shop for what appeals daily as well. Your apartment will likely have a mini fridge as opposed to the full sized "American" fridge. Stock up at the Monoprix for butter, coffee, bottled water, yogurt.

We loved the rotisserie chickens with potatos that are sold at bucheries all over the city. Lunch for us was often out, as many boulangeries sell lovely sandwiches one can take away for a nice picnic lunch.

I have the name of a fabulous guide in Paris - an American art student who moved there several years ago. He knows the city well, and will even take you on a foodie tour to check out food stores, bakeries, kitchenware stores. He is better, however, as a museum guide as his knowledge of art is outstanding and he is full of interesting details. Send me a PM if you want his name and contact info.

[Ptipois]

What will be your location in the 10e arrondissement ? More like gare du Nord, canal Saint-Martin, porte Saint-Denis ? The interesting thing to check is the street markets held several mornings a week in some locations. Try this link for the list of Paris markets, the "mobile" ones (mostly in the morning) and the covered markets (with more regular shopping hours and open every day, except Mondays and sometimes Sundays).

Note that the market streets are not mentioned, for there are not, strictly speaking, markets but highly commerçant streets that look like markets. There is, roughly, at least one in every arrondissement, like rue Mouffetard, rues de Lévis-Poncelet, rue de Buci, rue Daguerre, rue Cler, etc.

There are not many street markets in the 10th arrondissement. But Parisians do move to shop and, on weekends, are known to go to relatively faraway, successful markets like the organic Raspail market (6e) or the huge markets at Bastille (11th) or Cours de Vincennes (12th).``

Paris is a small, compact city and you won't have to go very far if you want to try a market outside of your arrondissement. I know of people from the 17th who come to my small neighborhood market or rue Monge on Sundays, and it is a long way.

There are also ethnic markets streets or area. There are wonderful finds to make there. North African foods are to be found at the Belleville market or around Barbès and La Goutte-d'Or (18th), subsaharian African stuff around Château-Rouge (rues Dejean, Doudeauville, Myrha, etc.), Indian/Srilankan stuff along rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis going north from the gare du Nord to La Chapelle and rue Louis Blanc, Turkish stuff on rue du Faubourg-saint-denis and around South of the gare du Nord and North of porte Saint-Denis. Of course the Asian shopping areas are respectively the 13th arrondissement in the South, within the triangle avenue de Choisy - avenue d'Ivry - boulevard Massena; and rue de Belleville north of métro Belleville. There is an interesting French Carribbean shop on boulevard de Belleville West of this place and a nice Jewish-North African neighborhood around the rue Richer (10th).

Aside from the street markets and market streets, you have the usual supermarkets, Monoprix, Champion, Franprix, etc.

[touaregsand]

The 10th is one of my favorite parts of Paris. I think that it's been about 4 years since I've been in that neighborhood though. It's really charming in a sort of cool and funky, bohemian way. There's a street with ethnic restaurants, well Frenchified ethnic cuisine. At night it seems like all the mutlicultural couples in Paris come to hang out in the area. I can't remember the name of the street but it's pretty easy to find.

As as a tourist I've found shopping for food in Paris really convenient. I would pretty much buy what struck my fancy while walking, you don't really have seek stuff out so much over there.

Even with the weak dollar, you'll find the prices very accessible compared to say New York. Paris is a wonderful pedestrian city. My ideal pedestrian city.

EDIT: The area I'm thinking of is the 11th very close to the 10th. Hubby just corrected me.

Edited February 27, 2005 by touaregsand (log)

[touaregsand]

Will you be driving in Paris? We did it a few times because we were either drove in from Lyon or drove to Paris from Lyon.

If you are it's not that bad. I've driven in Seoul, Manhatten, SF and LA so that's what I'm comparing it to. You could however get stuck on a one of those narrow streets and spend alot of time sitting. Parking isn't that bad, well better than Seoul anyway, cheaper than Manhatten. Watch out for the rond points though, there's a huge one that I got stuck in. Never been so scared in my entire driving life. Except in London, my mind just couldn't around the constant fear that I was sitting and driving on the wrong side.

Don't forget to get over to the Porte de Clignancourt.

St-Germain-des-Prés is another charming part of Paris. Boutiquey. Nice mid range bistros. I wouldn't even bother with the Champs Elysees for food, tourist trap with few exceptions.

[docsconz]

Thanks for these responses.

We will be on Rue Arthur Groussier near the Canal St Martin and the Goncourt Metro. It appears as if we will be near the Marché Alibert. It might be fun to do some ethnic food shopping as well as local French produce. I am particularly interested in buying cheeses, breads, pastries, produce, eggs, butter, meat, foie gras and particularly Bresse chicken. If I can find good renditions of these in my area so much the better. I love markets so I would be interested in traveling to some of the better ones as well. The more "artisanal" the produce the better.

As for driving, we will not have a vehicle on this trip - there is no need. I learned to drive in NYC and have driven in Rome and Naples, Italy and survived There, I learned that one must not be hesitant for he who hesitates is lost. One wears blinders and goes

What is special about the Porte de Clignancourt?

My last time in Paris, we spent the bulk of our time on the left bank, so this timewe aim to explore more of the right bank including Montmartre. We will have to venture over to the left bank for some shopping, dining and sightseeing though, as it will be the first time in Paris for our sons.

[touaregsand]

What is special about the Porte de Clignancourt?

Best flea market and collection of antique shops, perhaps in all the world.

If you've ever purchased French brands for your sons in Manhatten, you will become outright bitter when you see what it sells for in Paris.

[greenwich st]

Lucky you -- I love the Canal and I beleive, these days, it's very "branche". I've never shopped in the 10th, but one aspect of French marketing I adored when I lived there was shopping for poultry. There's something pretty sexy about choosing a bird by foot-color -- -- and then they have guinea-hen, my favorite, as well as several varieties of duck, etc. everywhere. Not sure if anyone mentioned the Bon Marche food market in the 7th -- not your beat this time, but very good for gifting. Also -- and I know this sounds kind of sick, because France is a place you definitely want to buy fresh vegetables -- I'm pretty fascinated by the Picard frozen food stores. The prepared food is much better than what you get here but not worth bothering with, but what's impressive is all the cooking-convenience food: amazing choice of prepped vegetables, herbs, stocks and prepared pastries. I wish they'd bring it over here.

[chefzadi]

John-

The best (or should I say most distinctive?) ethnic shopping in Paris is for North African products for obvious reasons, biggest minority group over there. Ptipois already mentioned the places to shop for this. If you're in the mood to a little kitchenware lugging you can pick up a couscousier or some tagines at bargain prices. My memory is a bit sketchy on how strongly Vietnamese is represented. I think that the Vietnamese food in France is a bit different from the food America. And from what I hear it can be quite good.

If your in the mood for North African cuisine

Ziriab - Moroccan

Rue des Fossés Saint Bernard, 9th floor

Paris

01.46. 33. 47. 70

l’ Arganier

19 ru Saint Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th arr)

Paris

Mansouria

Hours Wed-Sat noon-2pm; Mon-Sat 7:30-11pm

Address 11 rue Faidherbe

Location 11e, 11th & 12th Arrondissements (Opéra Bastille/Bois De Vincennes)

Transportation Métro: Faidherbe-Chaligny

Phone 01-43-71-00-16

La Table Marocaine du XVe

25, r du Hameau

75015 Paris

Tél : 01 56 36 07 38

Au Pied de Chameau

Moroccan cuisine.

20, r Quincampoix,

75004 Paris

Tél : 01 42 78 35 00

Restaurant Darkoum

Moroccan cuisine

44, r Sainte Anne,

75002 Paris

Tl : 01 42 96 83 76

Founti Agadir

Moroccan restaurant.

117, r Monge

75005 Paris

Tél : 01 43 37 85 10

Shanou

Algerian restaurant

292, r Lecourbe

75015 Paris

Tél : 01 45 57 11 58 v

Au Claire de Lune

French-Algerian since 1955

27, rue Tiquetonne

75002 Paris

Phone : 01 40 26 12 39

01 42 33 59 10

La Tente d'Algerie

01 40 33 45 71

335 rue des Pyrenees - 75020 - Paris

I haven't eaten at all of these place, cause my maman makes the best.

I don't know how old your sons are, but North African places are pretty welcoming of kids. We took our daughter when she was just a wee babe in arms, great service.

The fast food couscous can be okay, but the thing to try at these places is a merguez or kebab sandwich.

[docsconz]

Pintade is one of my favorite birds as well. A lot of what we will do will depend on the state of the kitchen in the apartment. It looks like it should be pretty good, but we shall see. What I may wind up doing is getting up early each morning to go out for fresh bread and croissants for breakfast as well as the day's shopping for dinner and veggies. We will most likely eat out for lunch most days with dinner and a movie at the apartment. The boys will be 15,14 and 6 at that time. The 15 and 14 y/o's are very culinarily adventurous, but the 6y/o so far is not. We will be bringing one of the older boys with us to El Bulli and the other to Gagnaire while the one who doesn't go gets to babysit.

[touaregsand]

docsconz-

Paris is a great city for a family vacation. SF is another city I would put on my short list of fun cities to visit with kids. Our daughter traveled alot with us when she was a baby/toddler. Our son, well this little gorilla we're waiting for him to become a little bit more...um...manageable before we even think about taking him to far away places. I really feel that the French are very open to accepting children even in alot of the better restaurants. I don't really get this impression in the States.

Of course I'm sure my son will go all bug eyed when he sees TV commercials with cute little bare assed French girls when he gets older like a couple of your sons are

[hazardnc]

Thanks for these responses.

We will be on Rue Arthur Groussier near the Canal St Martin and the Goncourt Metro. It appears as if we will be near the Marché Alibert. It might be fun to do some ethnic food shopping as well as local French produce. I am particularly interested in buying cheeses, breads, pastries, produce, eggs, butter, meat, foie gras and particularly Bresse chicken. If I can find good renditions of these in my area so much the better. I love markets so I would be interested in traveling to some of the better ones as well. The more "artisanal" the produce the better.

←

Okay = getting from Goncourt to the Bastille is pretty easy and would require only one transfer. Take the Goncourt to the Metro Republique, then change and go to the Metro Bastille. The Richard Lenoir market is rated a 5 out of 5 by Patricia Wells, and I have to concur. You will find the foie gras, the butter, the cheeses, the produce, as well as the aforementioned "pain au thyme." Chefzadi might know this as manaish. The are a couple of Lebanese men who have a stall selling this, plus falafel, baba ganoush, etc. Excellent - my husband, who lived in Beirut in the 60's, said theirs is exactly what he remembered having as a child.

Further down the same metro line is the Metro Ledru Rollin which is not far from 4-star (Well's assessmednt) Place d'Aligre which holds a covered market, an open market and a flea market. This is open every day except Monday and is also worth a visit.

There is much to do not far from Metro Bastille, including the famous Place du Voges (a great place for the kids to play - how old are they?), the historic Jewish quarter (visit Las du Falafel for lunch - excellent falafel and shawarma avec frite!). The Bastille itself is really nothing now. The Marais is the old Paris and is wonderful to wander through. Plus, you are near Ma Bourgone and Brasserie Bofinger for atmospheric (albeit touristy) meals.

Take a long walk or hitch a cab to the Pompidou museum. Though you may not be into modern art (I am not), the Strasbourg Fountain outside the museum coupled with the museum's architecture is worth a visit and the kids will love it. Grab a crepe and have a picnic.

If you like duck (as I like duck), then you may want to visit the restaurant le Chistera in the 11th e. Metro Saint-Maur. tel Tel : 01 47 00 46 87. We dined here on the firse trip. I would not call this fine cuisine, but good, simple fare - the chef and his wife are from the Southwest of France. I had a fabulous pate de foie gras and confit here. Good service, reasonably priced set menu.

Oh - and I can't forget the most important thing! Make sure to visit the chocolate shop of Denise Acabo in the 9th (not far from the Sacre Coeur) called "etoile d'or" We bought a selection of chocolates (she does not make it - she gets it from the best sources in the country) and ate them on the plane ride home. Well worth a visit and fun! Here's a weblog Denise Acabo's l'Etoile D'or

[touaregsand]

All of this talk of metro lines in France reminds me of my underground adventures there throughout the years. A nine piece gypsy band, love it. I never managed to get clear directions from the Metro workers in Paris. Sometimes a simple question regarding which line goes where, would result in a conference of sorts, multiple metro employees discussing too much with eachother (sort of like Pierre, ya know where this one goes? No, Abdul, do you know? No, hahaha! and ending with the sometimes expasperating French shrug, "Try this or go over there maybe.") London's tube, on the other hand was highly efficient with directions and catching any "criminals" trying to pass through a turnstyle wihtout paying the proper fees. Not much visibility with the police outside of the tube in London though. But if anyone even dared to pass a turnstyle without paying the proper fees, the tube police landed like the proverbial flies on shit. On a daily basis I suffered a lot of breakdowns on the the tube. . Proper, linear queues that are the standard in London don't exist in Paris either. Lines more like herds, not much concern with who came first or where or when. The pace is different in Paris, unlike any other metropolis in the world. Anyway, the Metro in Paris pretty fucking cool.

The NYC subway ride

EDIT: I didn't personally breakdown on the London Tube. I meant that on the London Tube, lines frequently stop in need of repairs.

Edited February 28, 2005 by touaregsand (log)

[Chris Amirault]

My last time in Paris, we spent the bulk of our time on the left bank, so this timewe aim to explore more of the right bank including Montmartre. We will have to venture over to the left bank for some shopping, dining and sightseeing though, as it will be the first time in Paris for our sons.

←

As I mentioned in my PM, John, be sure to hit Rue Lepic in Montmartre and bring a shopping bag. There's a great fish market at the top of the street, two great butchers, and several other shops for cheese, wine, produce, etc. We stayed for a week nearby and shopped there nearly daily.

[Ptipois]

I never managed to get clear directions from the Metro workers in Paris. Sometimes a simple question regarding which line goes where, would result in a conference of sorts, multiple metro employees discussing too much with eachother (sort of like Pierre, ya know where this one goes? No, Abdul, do you know? No, hahaha!  and ending with the sometimes expasperating French shrug, "Try this or go over there maybe.")

←

That's probably because they're not used being asked. There are good maps of the Métro network all over the place

A very useful buy is the small map & direction book "Paris par arrondissements" published by Taride. At most booksellers and newsstands. But with the wide boulevards radiating from large squares in the 10e and 11e, you probably won't need much help and all the places described by touaregsand may be reached easily on a half-day's walk with all the necessary stopping and enjoying. Walking is really the very best way to do it, especially with kids.

[bleudauvergne]

When we were in Paris, our apartment was right next to the canal between Metros Republique and Goncourt. I did a lot of my shopping along up hill along the Rue Temple de Faubourg. There's a nice poissonnerie, some individual stalls and shops selling fruits, etc, many small African shops selling beans and dried goods... In the other direction towards Place Republique there is a Picard if you walk towards Place Republique, take a right once you've crossed the canal and proceed about a block. I think either Tuesdays or Thursdays was the market that takes place on the park there, you'll be right near there. At the time I was doing a good bit of shopping with the Chinese merchants because at least I could speak their language! The further up the hill you walk on rue de Temple de Fauborg, the closer you'll get to the Chinese shops in that area.

[Bux]

docsconz-

. . .  I really feel that the French are very open to accepting children even in alot of the better restaurants. I don't really get this impression in the States.

. . .

←

French children are also far more likely to behave themselves in public when they are with their family. Indeed, French children often seem to lead a stifled childhood, while American kids seem feral by comparison. On the other hand, French children in a school group can seem rather undisciplined, so they seem to find an outlet and of course, there are reasonably well behaved American children who understand the difference between a playground and a formal restaurant. Stereotypes are much too dangerous to depend on.

Nudity in French commercials and street posters is rather natural and far less provocatively sexual agressive than our own advertising. You should be warned that one of the standard French channels devotes one night a week to some rather adult programming. It's usually tastefully done, but sometimes bizarre. I think it's 5 and it always seems that no matter when I think it is, it's always another night.

Paris has some excellent parks enjoyable by both children and adults. A visit to Paris without spending time in the Jardins des Tuileries and the Jardin du Luxembourg would be incomplete. Of the very recent parks in Paris, I highly recommend each of the following the Alléé on top of the Viaduc des Arts, (12th) Pars de Bercy, (12) Parc de la Villette, (19) with its Science and Industry museum and perhaps above all the Parc André Citroën (15) at the opposite end of Paris.

A very useful buy is the small map & direction book "Paris par arrondissements" published by Taride. . . .  Walking is really the very best way to do it, especially with kids.

←

That explains why I've always referred to whatever Paris par Arrondissement book I've had as a "Taride," although I don't find that publisher's name on the last couple of them we've owned. I'm sure the first one we owned must have been published by Taride, or perhaps the one first lent to us by a friend in Paris was a real "Taride." These almost identically titled books, mostly in pocket sized additions are invaluable even for a short stay in Paris. Just find one that seems easy to read and is convenient to carry. I rarely step out on the street without one in my pocket, or in my wife's handbag or backpack. One trip we forgot to pack ours and on arrival I went straight to the Bon Marché which was near our hotel and picked up a cheap paperbound edition for about 5€.

I may look like a tourist when I continuously refer to it in order to orient myself in Paris, but the truth is, I feel like a tourist when I don't have it with me. The metros are fun, and the busses very useful to cover some ground and see the street life, but Paris is the walking city par excellence.

I would be careful of expecting too much of a kitchen in a rental unit for a number of reasons. Rentals all over the world are notoriously poorly equipped and lacking one thing or another, but Parisian kitchens are often smaller than NY kitchens and less well equipped in general. Parisians eat out a lot more than most people and the French in general are not the cooks Americans think they are. Cooking is a respected professional job in France and almost always has been, particularly in Paris. Much of what a French homemaker will serve is purchased already prepared at the épicerie, traiteur, charcuterie, etc. Those who do cook from scratch, can expect far more service from the butcher and fishmonger however. In any event, you could live on bread and cheese for far longer than you're planning on staying in Paris. I'd certainly make it a point to check out the most highly regarded pastry shops -- at least twice a day. Supplement that with a few prepared salades and perhaps some specialtiy sausages -- boudins noirs et blancs and, if you have the taste, or the curiosity, some andouillettes.

[Ptipois]

I may look like a tourist when I continuously refer to it in order to orient myself in Paris, but the truth is, I feel like a tourist when I don't have it with me.

Many Parisians have a Taride in their pocket, handbag or at least at home. There's nothing touristy about a Taride. It is absolutely Parisian.

The metros are fun, and the busses very useful to cover some ground and see the street life, but Paris is the walking city par excellence.

←

Indeed it is.

[touaregsand]

I never managed to get clear directions from the Metro workers in Paris. Sometimes a simple question regarding which line goes where, would result in a conference of sorts, multiple metro employees discussing too much with eachother (sort of like Pierre, ya know where this one goes? No, Abdul, do you know? No, hahaha!  and ending with the sometimes expasperating French shrug, "Try this or go over there maybe.")

←

That's probably because they're not used being asked. There are good maps of the Métro network all over the place

A very useful buy is the small map & direction book "Paris par arrondissements" published by Taride. At most booksellers and newsstands. But with the wide boulevards radiating from large squares in the 10e and 11e, you probably won't need much help and all the places described by touaregsand may be reached easily on a half-day's walk with all the necessary stopping and enjoying. Walking is really the very best way to do it, especially with kids.

←

During all my visits to Paris, I never purchased one of those things! I guess my survival French is better than I gave my self credit for and native Parisians give better directions I gave them credit for.

Yes I initially mentioned Paris is the best pedestrian city. It's possible to walk and walk without feeling bored or tired. There is always something to see and little breaks for refreshements (refueling with a pastry, drinks and toilets) are conveniently found.

Little parks to sit and rest for awhile, etc...

Usually I go with my husband. But I've been there a few times on my own for business and as a woman traveling alone I felt very safe there. I wonder if other women would agree with this? Aside from the tendency for some Frenchmen to follow a woman if eye contact and a smile is given which would be considered "stalking" in America.

[spikemom]

I adore the Taride, but I've noticed that the street name print is smaller and harder to read than it was 25 years ago.

Or is that just me?

In any case, a word to those over 50: pack your Taride AND your reading glasses.

[spikemom]

I might also mention that I bought a very chic pair of reading glasses at a pharmacy in the 6th arrondissement on my last visit (Nov. 2003).

Edited February 28, 2005 by spikemom (log)

[John Talbott]

I adore the Taride, but I've noticed that the street name print is smaller and harder to read than it was 25 years ago.

Or is that just me?

In any case, a word to those over 50: pack your Taride AND your reading glasses.

←

It is not just you.

I would respectfully suggest that the Blue Michelin bookmap of Paris, it used to be #14, now I think it's #12, is much easier to read than Taride for the geezer bunch. The only time I use the Tirade is when looking for streets in the banlieus.

Also you may have to ask more than once, but the #2 RATP Metro map is so much better than the #1 or those little creditcard sized ones the young folks carry.

Why struggle to read stuff when there are legible maps?

[Bux]

I must admit that when I was by an American living and working in Paris many years ago, that it was an essential purchase, I was also told that it's what taxi drivers use to know where they're going. Of course they don't need an edition that fits into a picket.

[LindaK]

Your address is only a few blocks from a place where I lived for a few weeks in Sept/Oct 2003, I was on the rue Bichat. I really loved the neighborhood, though will admit that it did not necessarily make a great first impression, it was much more funky than the more bourgoise quartiers that I had been used to in Paris. It's very diverse, gives you an entirely new sense of Paris. Being near the Canal is fabulous.

For the more traditional French grocery shopping, the Marché Alibert is the best in the area, it will have everything you want and more, it should be fun for your kids. I was somewhat disappointed at not having a vast selections of smaller traditional shops such as fromageries, etc. in my immediate neighborhood but you don't have to travel far for them. I do remember a wonderful boulangerie - patisserie on the Av. Parmentier, Au Levain du Marias. Excellent!! There are some really wonderful small restaurants, bistros and wine bars in the area, esp. on the other side of the canal. Also, the Oberkampf area has some great places to shop and eat.

I'm so jealous, I enjoyed my time there so much. And I vote for the Michelin #14 map, easy to read and small enough to stash away when not in use.

[docsconz]

Thanks for the recs. Your description of the area is very reassuring. What makes the canal so special?