Keeping a braise from drying out overnight

[Wolfert]

The secret of the great long cooked dishes of the French Southwest is in the reheating over a 2 or 3 day period. Each day the meat is slowly reheated, simmered, cooled, and degreased. The flavors mellow at each reheating. The flesh is not mushy but meltingly tender. These dishes usually have a flour based sauce which holds the wine flavor through all the reheating .

I have never done a reheating of a Moroccan tagine in order to plump up the meat. I think of Moroccan tagines as all about the sauce--- fresh and ready for dipping with bread. In many cases the meat has "given up" most of his flavor to the sauce.

Edited January 11, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[bleudauvergne]

Forgive my igorance - but does this mean that reheating a third time improves the dish even more?

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Yes, that's what it means. There are some dishes that I always try to get to the table on the third day. Try it.

Breathtaking Oxtail braise, Anna.

[Fat Guy]

what is the difference between a braise and a poach?  The technique seems very, very similar.  The pears were done stove-top and, of course, there was no browning step but I still see too many similarities.  Anyone care to comment?

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Perhaps another topic would be appropriate for this. Much of the terminology of cooking has been handed down to us from times when equipment was different and comprehension of science was poor. Thus much of our cooking terminology, like "oven roasting" (aka "baking") is unhelpful. You can braise something over a flame as on the stovetop -- the chamber ovens that we all have in our homes are a modern invention -- and not all braised dishes involve browning (some of the daubes of which Paula speaks, for example, are marinated but not browned). Some braised dishes are cooked with just a little liquid in a tightly covered vessel, whereas others are cooked almost or fully submerged. If you use a broad definition of braising, which I think you should, sure, poaching, simmering and braising are all birds of a feather -- it's all cooking with moist heat, and the differences are in the details, and the sets of details often don't get coupled with the right words anyway. If you go look at technical definitions, you'll find that poaching temperatures are lower than simmering and braising temperatures, which are in turn lower than boiling, but then again your "poached" pears were probably simmered and "poached" eggs are almost always simmered or boiled.

[Anna N]

Thanks, Fat Guy. I don't think the question would have arisen had I not used both techniques on the same day for the same meal!

[Anna N]

The secret of the great long cooked dishes of the French Southwest is in the reheating over a 2 or 3 day period. Each day the meat is slowly reheated, simmered, cooled, and degreased. The flavors mellow at each reheating. The flesh is not mushy but meltingly tender. . . .

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The oxtails came through the second re-heating lusciously tender and flavorful. Won't be able to report on the 3rd reheating though, we ate it all.

Thanks for the help from everyone as this is a technique I will be using over and over again. Tomorrow - Coq au Vin to be reheated for serving on Friday.

[Kim WB]

I'm just not going to fall for this extra workload...if I store my potroast in a "rubbermaid pitcher" ( as per Rachel's vertical suggestion) with a tight lid, and if for any reasonthe juices don't cover, so I add 1/4 can of cambell's beef stock, and 1/4 cup of water....then bring to room temp, put in a low oven for 2-3 hrs...what am I missing? In the real world, freezers are packed, the reason you made a braise was for time saving to begin with...what's with parchment, seperating liquids...yikes!!

Edited January 13, 2005 by Kim WB (log)

[Anna N]

I'm just not going to fall for this extra workload...if I store my potroast in a "rubbermaid pitcher" ( as per Rachel's vertical suggestion) with a tight lid, and if for any reasonthe juices don't cover, so I add 1/4 can of cambell's beef stock, and 1/4 cup of water....then bring to room temp, put in a low oven for 2-3 hrs...what am I missing?  In the real world, freezers are packed, the reason you made a braise was for time saving to begin with...what's with parchment, seperating liquids...yikes!!

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Kim - go for it - we should each do what suits us best.

But I did not do the braise to save time - my reason was to bring out the maximum taste I could from the oxtails and other ingredients - hence the extra steps.

[Kim WB]

[Kim - go for it - we should each do what suits us best. 

But I did not do the braise to save time - my reason was to bring out the maximum taste I could from the oxtails and other ingredients - hence the extra steps.

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right..I was more replying to the title than the specific dish...carry on!

[snowangel]

Following Paula's suggestions (I'm not doing the three day thing, just the two day thing), I removed roast from liquid. It's so blanking cold here that the meat, on the deck in a dish, was cool in 4 minutes. I did take the precaution of putting the liquid in a pot I hate before I put it on the deck. It all "crackled." Everything smells (smelled before chilling). So meat is in an airless ziplock, liquid rescued from deck before freezing and in the unheated part of the house (33 F currently).

[fifi]

. . . . I did take the precaution of putting the liquid in a pot I hate before I put it on the deck.  It all "crackled."  Everything smells (smelled before chilling).  So meat is in an airless ziplock, liquid rescued from deck before freezing and in the unheated part of the house (33 F currently).

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Ok. Enquiring minds want to know. Why did you need to use a pot you hate? What do you mean by "crackled?" Smells? How does it smell? Bad?

Living in the cold country does apparantly have its virtues. Imagine having several acres of deep freeze.

[snowangel]

I used a pan I hated because I stuck a pan of hot stuff on a sub-zero deck. Didn't want to compromise my LC. (Braised in the LC, liquid transfered.)

Fifi, when it's this effing cold, strange things happen when you put really hot stuff on a really cold deck. Trust me. Less than 2 hours later, it's rock solid frozen. Tomorrow, I will bring the pan in and scrape the fat off and bring the frozen back to liquid, add the meat back in, and put in a 250 oven for a long, slow, reheat.

Smell? There is no smell now. It's frozen. Before it froze it smelled so wonderful....

I'll also have to scrape the fat off the stock I made today and thaw it before I reduce it. That (16 quart stock pot) took 3 hours to freeze solid.

Trust I won't wreck anything by freezing stock (it has been strained) before reducing?

[fifi]

. . . . .

I'll also have to scrape the fat off the stock I made today and thaw it before I reduce it.  That (16 quart stock pot) took 3 hours to freeze solid.

Trust I won't wreck anything by freezing stock (it has been strained) before reducing?

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YOIKS! The whole thing freezing in three hours reminds me of going into blast freezers when I was with FDA.

I freeze stock all the time before reducing if I need to interupt the process and I have the freezer space. Obviously, you don't have a space problem.

[snowangel]

I freeze stock all the time before reducing if I need to interupt the process and I have the freezer space. Obviously, you don't have a space problem.

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No freezer space problem right now, just a problem making sure that every kid has long johns, mittens, mitten liners, hats, hoods (they are zip on), etc., etc. for the wait at the bus stop. ANd, setting the alarm earlier, because they do need to get ready a bit earlier! It's got to be under 10 (f) below before they cancel recess here.

[Smithy]

I freeze stock all the time before reducing if I need to interupt the process and I have the freezer space. Obviously, you don't have a space problem.

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No freezer space problem right now, just a problem making sure that every kid has long johns, mittens, mitten liners, hats, hoods (they are zip on), etc., etc. for the wait at the bus stop. ANd, setting the alarm earlier, because they do need to get ready a bit earlier! It's got to be under 10 (f) below before they cancel recess here.

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All the schools up here in Duluth, and points farther north, have already cancelled school for tomorrow. They say we'll be lucky if the high temperature clears -10F. I brought work home to justify not trying to start my car. I'm not sure yet what I'll cook tomorrow, but I expect to take full advantage of a weekend at home, since it isn't supposed to warm up for at least 3 days. Too bad my new LC dutch/french oven won't be here tomorrow. (Fifi, you really are terrible! How much stock in LC do you own? ) Still, I'll have a gratin pan to play with, and Jeffrey Steingarten's recipe/book for starters, and some great advice on Cajun cookery from another thread, and a small non-LC pot in which to try it. I call it frostbite combat.

[snowangel]

So, I braised yesterday. Removed meat from liquid. STored them separate (meat in fridge, juice in pan on deck; reminder to self that when it is way sub-zero, you can burn your hand on a sub-zero pan handle!). Reheated gently as suggested by Goddess Wolfert.

In Diana's words it was "da bomb." My 70+ year olf father wondered just what I did to make this chuck roast the best he's ever had. Two clues. Lots of that gristle stuff that melts. And, re-braising. Next time, I'm doing the three-day thing.

Thanks, Paula!

[fifi]

So, I braised yesterday.  Removed meat from liquid.  STored them separate (meat in fridge, juice in pan on deck; reminder to self that when it is way sub-zero, you can burn your hand on a sub-zero pan handle!).  Reheated gently as suggested by Goddess Wolfert.

In Diana's words  it was "da bomb."  My 70+ year olf father wondered just what I did to make this chuck roast the best he's ever had.  Two clues.  Lots of that gristle stuff that melts.  And, re-braising.  Next time, I'm doing the three-day thing.

Thanks, Paula!

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Does that mean I am going to have to start planning ahead?

[snowangel]

Does that mean I am going to have to start planning ahead?

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Yes. I want a report from you after you've Planned Ahead. No reason not to eat part of it the first night, re-braise day 2, eat a bit more, and re-braise once again. Would be a good report for EG.

[stovetop]

What about not taking the fat off and the fat will create a natural seal on top, this fat cap will seal in all underneath, I belive it might even be air tght??

This is just a thought, nature does have it's sealer.

steve

[SobaAddict70]

My oxtail braise is finished, I am defatting the braising liquid now but don't want to serve the braise for a couple of days as I like the flavours to develop.  In this case, there is absolutely no way that the braising liquid will cover the meat.  How would you suggest I keep the meat moist for a couple of days?  Any tips would be most welcome.

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Ohhhhh....that looks just incredibly divine!

I'm hungry right now and it's all your fault.

Is there a recipe somewhere? Please?

Soba

[Anna N]

[

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Ohhhhh....that looks just incredibly divine!

I'm hungry right now and it's all your fault.

Is there a recipe somewhere? Please?

Soba

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[SobaAddict70]

Much obliged, Anna.

I was being figurative, btw.

That is just amazing. :drool emoticon:

Soba

[Fat Guy]

What about not taking the fat off and the fat will create a natural seal on top, this fat cap will seal in all underneath, I belive it might even be air tght??

This is just a thought, nature does have it's sealer.

steve

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This would be a solution for a fully submerged braise where the meat and liquid are kept together; however, in such instances the liquid itself is also a pretty good sealer, as is the lid to whatever vessel is being used.

[Anna N]

Much obliged, Anna.

I was being figurative, btw.

That is just amazing.  :drool emoticon:

Soba

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Here you go.

Oxtails Braised in Red Wine (Adapted from Molly Stevens: All About Braising.)

You will need about 5lbs of oxtails cut into pieces, each about 2 inches. Trim these of excess fat but don’t free the meat from the bone – so you are really just trimming the outer fat.

You are going to marinate these for one to two days in the fridge so you need to prep a marinade consisting of:

1 t black peppercorns

½ t allspice berries

4 whole cloves

2 bay leaves, broken in half

1 t coarse salt

3 rosemary sprigs about 5 inches each, broken into 1 inch pieces

Tie these up in some cheesecloth.

Then you need:

750 ml dry red wine

Put the wine into a non-reactive container (glass or even a re-sealable plastic bag) that will hold the wine and the oxtails add the cheesecloth bundle of seasonings and the oxtails and refrigerate for up to two days. Toss them about every 12 hours or so to keep them covered in the marinade.

Then you will need:

½ oz dried porcini mushrooms soaked in ¾ C warm water for half an hour to soften.

2 T extra virgin olive oil

¼ lb thick cut pancetta cut into ½ inch dice

1 onion (about ½ lb), coarsely chopped

1 large carrot, coarsely chopped

1 stalk of celery, coarsely chopped

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

2 cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped

2 T tomato paste

2 T grappa or brandy

1 ½ C home-made or store-bought stock – veal, chicken or beef.

Remove the oxtails from the marinade but keep the marinade and the spices. Dry off the oxtails. Brown the oxtails either on the stove top or under the broiler until really dark but not burned. Turn on the oven to 300F.

Heat the oil in a large braising vessel (dutch oven or whatever you use to braise in) and saute the pancetta, onion, carrot and celery until the veggies just start to brown. Add the garlic and then stir the tomato paste through the veggies and cook for a minute or so more. Drain the mushrooms but keep the liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms and add them to the pan. Strain the liquid carefully and put aside. Add the grappa or brandy to the pan and deglaze, scraping up all the yummies on the bottom of the pan.

Add half the marinade and reduce to about half. Add the rest of the marinade and the spice bundle and reduce again by half. Add the mushroom juice and the stock and again reduce by half.

Put the oxtails in the pan so they hug one another closely. Cover with parchment paper that hangs over the pan by an inch or so (or follow Paula Wolfert’s advice and wet and crumple the parchment paper). Cover with a tight-fitting lid and put in the bottom 3rd of the oven and braise for about 4 hours. Check after 10 or 20 mins to make sure that you have a slow simmer and not a boil. Turn the oven down if you need to. After about two hours, turn the oxtails over. If you need to, add ½ cup water to keep the braising liquid from drying out.

When the oxtails are falling-off-the-bone tender, remove them and keep them warm. Squeeze as much liquid from the spice bundle as you can into the liquid, and toss the bundle in the trash. Skim off as much fat from the braising liquid as you reasonably can but don’t get ridiculous – you need some fat for flavor. Taste! If you think it needs it, reduce the liquid again or, if it is too thick for your liking, add water or stock. Check for seasoning.

Now you can decide how to serve these – on or off the bone – it is up to you. Return the oxtails to the liquid, heat through and serve. Or, even better, stick in the fridge using one of the recommended storage ideas in this thread and serve the next day or the day after....................................

[fifi]

New question about pots . . . Let's say that I have done a pot of braised Pogo possum. I am planning ahead and I am going to go with what I am calling Paula Wolfert's "three times is a charm" method.

Following Paula's recommendation, I separate the liquid and store the two components separately. (Though for purposes of this question that may be optional.)

Day 2: I put Pogo back in the pot and slowly warm it. (Maybe I have a portion for lunch.) Back in the fridge.

Day 3: I am now ready to serve Pogo for a real meal. But . . . oops, there is just me. I could take out a single portion for one and that is where the question comes up. Where can I get a little pot with a lid to reheat that one portion, storing the rest of it in the freezer maybe for another day?

The 2 cup casserole that I found here might work. I checked the Emile Henry site and they don't have anything like that. Any ideas?

Going with the individual serving idea, it might even be a good idea to go with individual servings when you first store it at the end of Day 2. Even if you are serving more than one, individual pots would look cool.

But, would you have to drastically alter the rewarming time for the smaller pots? I would think the temperature might stay the same, but maybe not. What do you think?