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Michelin 2005


pedro

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It's getting late, but duty it's duty. Michelin ratings for 2005 have just appeared today. Sant Celoni in Madrid, supervised by Santi Santamaría (Can Fabes) and Hacienda Benazuza (elBulli's restaurant in Salúcar la Mayor) have achieved their second star. No more changes have occurred in the 3 and 2 star categories. That means that Arzak, Berasategui, Can Fabes and elBulli are the only four Spanish restaurants which achieve the top rating in the red guide, and the second tier in that guide has ten contenders: Tristán (Portals Nous, Mallorca), Atrio (Cáceres), Akelarre (San Sebastián), El Celler de Can Roca (Gerona), La Broche (Madrid), Girasol (Moraira), Zuberoa (Oyarzun, Guipúzcoa) and Sant Pau (San Pol de Mar, Barcelona).

The Rexach sisters at Hispania recover their missed star (1), along with: Real Balneario (Salinas, Asturias), El Rincón de Antonio (Zamora), Posada del Abad (Ampudia, Palencia), Hofmann and Alkimia (Barcelona), A Reixidora (Bentraces, Orense), Estany Clar (Cercs, Barcelona), La Seu (Denia, Alicante), Miramón Arbelaitz (San Sebastián), El Portal (Ezcaray, La Rioja), Altair (Mérida, Badajoz), Les Cols (Olot, Gerona), Víctor Gutiérrez (Salamanca), El Cingle (Vacarisses, Barcelona) and Alejandro (Valencia).

The ones who miss their stars, seven restaurants in total, are: Taberna de Viavélez (Asturias), Jordi Parramón (Vic) y Ca´s Puers (Sóller) because they went out of business and La Seu, from Moraira (Alicante) because it's moved to Denia. The others are Loliña in Carril (Pontevedra), Urepel in San Sebastián, and Goizeko Kabi in Madrid.

The total amount of stars granted to Spain by the Michelin guide is 105.

PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)

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Hiya,

How did you find out your countries "stars"?

Is your guide out before Great Britains 2005 edition??

I went into a French restaraunt and asked the waiter, 'Have you got frog's legs?' He said, 'Yes,' so I said, 'Well hop into the kitchen and get me a cheese sandwich.'

Tommy Cooper

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It's nice to see a star for Hispania although I have eaten in restaurants with what I felt was far superior cooking that have but one star. Then again I thought some of them were better than the average two star restaurant in France and a few might be better than that. Hard to believe Echaurren is just getting a star. Then again as I've found so much fault, it shouldn't come as any surprise. It's a pity Michelin gets as much press as it does in Spain. It all seems false and based on a preconception of how many stars Spain should have based on tradition, French tradtion.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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Hiya,

How did you find out your countries "stars"?

Is your guide out before Great Britains 2005 edition??

Stars in Spain are usually disclosed around this time of the year. They made it to the news yesterday. I believe the guide will be available in the next week or so.

PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)

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Thanks pedro!

I already heard about the 6 Catalunya stars yesterday, and I was very glad Alkimia got its star; I still haven't been to Hofmann. Nevertheless, as pointed out here very often: Michelin is not the most important culinary guide for Spain.

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While I haven't been there, based on the discussion on this forum is Mugaritz really starless?

Another restaurant that I'm surprised is not on the list is Abac in Barcelona, superior in my mind to both Alkimia and Hispania. I've never even heard of Hofman before.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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John,

Hofmann is the cooking school I'm attending (See this thread), which also has a restaurant.

What I think is interesting, and I'd like others to expand if possible, is that this is a kitchen that is mainly manned by 2nd and 3rd year cooking students. Are there other Michelin-starred restaurants that belong to cooking schools?

Silly.

We''ve opened Pazzta 920, a fresh pasta stall in the Boqueria Market. follow the thread here.

My blog, the Adventures of A Silly Disciple.

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While I haven't been there, based on the discussion on this forum is Mugaritz really starless?

Another restaurant that I'm surprised is not on the list is Abac in Barcelona, superior in my mind to both Alkimia and Hispania. I've never even heard of Hofman before.

John, all the restaurants you mention have 1 star. I didn't list the 91 restaurants around the country which have a single star.

PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)

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John, all the restaurants you mention have 1 star. I didn't list the 91 restaurants around the country which have a single star.

Pedro, I'm curious, is this list available somewhere on the internet?

Thanks,

Silly.

We''ve opened Pazzta 920, a fresh pasta stall in the Boqueria Market. follow the thread here.

My blog, the Adventures of A Silly Disciple.

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John, all the restaurants you mention have 1 star. I didn't list the 91 restaurants around the country which have a single star.

Pedro, I'm curious, is this list available somewhere on the internet?

Thanks,

Silly.

Nowhere I know of. That's why I didn't post it :wink: .

I assume you already know Michelin online, but its search capabilities are limited. Or better said, you don't have an easy way to know which are the restaurants in the country for each category. You have to go city by city... The site doesn't seem to be updated with 2005 ratings (yet).

PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)

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John, all the restaurants you mention have 1 star. I didn't list the 91 restaurants around the country which have a single star.

Pedro, I'm curious, is this list available somewhere on the internet?

Thanks,

Silly.

Nowhere I know of. That's why I didn't post it :wink: .

I assume you already know Michelin online, but its search capabilities are limited. Or better said, you don't have an easy way to know which are the restaurants in the country for each category. You have to go city by city... The site doesn't seem to be updated with 2005 ratings (yet).

Right, it is not updated yet. Would you mind telling me (as long as you think its ok) which other restaurants in Catalunya have one star?

thanks,

Silly.

We''ve opened Pazzta 920, a fresh pasta stall in the Boqueria Market. follow the thread here.

My blog, the Adventures of A Silly Disciple.

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Right, it is not updated yet. Would you mind telling me (as long as you think its ok) which other restaurants in Catalunya have one star?

thanks,

Silly.

It'll take you some time, but all you have to do is to find at their site for starred restaurants in the four Catalonian provinces, Lleida, Girona, Barcelona and Tarragona. That means to perform four searches. Since you know which restaurants have lost their star and which have gained a new one, that'll do it.

PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)

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Right, it is not updated yet. Would you mind telling me (as long as you think its ok) which other restaurants in Catalunya have one star?

thanks,

Silly.

It'll take you some time, but all you have to do is to find at their site for starred restaurants in the four Catalonian provinces, Lleida, Girona, Barcelona and Tarragona. That means to perform four searches. Since you know which restaurants have lost their star and which have gained a new one, that'll do it.

Thanks, I'll try it, although it seems like for some reason not all of them are listed.

do you think it's ok to post the list here?

Silly.

We''ve opened Pazzta 920, a fresh pasta stall in the Boqueria Market. follow the thread here.

My blog, the Adventures of A Silly Disciple.

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Ok, here it goes:

3 stars:

El Bulli - Roses, Girona

Can Fabes - Sant Celoni, Girona

2 stars:

Sant Pau - Sant Pol del Mar, Girona

El Celler de Can Roca - Girona

1 star:

Drolma - Barcelona

Àbac - Barcelona

Jean Luc Figueras - Barcelona

El Racó d'en Freixa - Barcelona

Via Veneto - Barcelona

Neichel - Barcelona

Gaig - Barcelona

L'Esguard - Sant Andreu de Llavaneres, Barcelona

Hispania - Barcelona

Alkimia - Barcelona

Hofmann - Barcelona

Estany Clar - Cercs, Barcelona

El Cingle - Vacarisses, Barcelona

Can Bosch - Cambrils de Mar, Tarragona

Mas Pau - Avinyonet de Puigventós, Girona

La Cuina de Can Pipes - Mont-ras, Girona

La Cuina de Can Simon - Tossa del mar, Girona

La Llar - Roses, Girona

Cal l'Enric - La Vall de Bianya, Girona

Can Jubani - Calldetenes, Girona

Jordi Parramon - Vic, Girona

Malena - Lleida

Carballeira - Butsenit, Lleida

I would still be interested to know if there are other cooking schools with restaurants that hold michelin stars.

Silly.

We''ve opened Pazzta 920, a fresh pasta stall in the Boqueria Market. follow the thread here.

My blog, the Adventures of A Silly Disciple.

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Ok, here it goes:

3 stars:

El Bulli - Roses, Girona

Can Fabes - Sant Celoni, Girona

2 stars:

Sant Pau - Sant Pol del Mar, Girona

El Celler de Can Roca - Girona

1 star:

Drolma - Barcelona

Àbac - Barcelona

Jean Luc Figueras - Barcelona

El Racó d'en Freixa - Barcelona

Via Veneto - Barcelona

Neichel - Barcelona

Gaig - Barcelona

L'Esguard - Sant Andreu de Llavaneres, Barcelona

Hispania - Barcelona

Alkimia - Barcelona

Hofmann - Barcelona

Estany Clar - Cercs, Barcelona

El Cingle - Vacarisses, Barcelona

Can Bosch - Cambrils de Mar, Tarragona

Mas Pau - Avinyonet de Puigventós, Girona

La Cuina de Can Pipes - Mont-ras, Girona

La Cuina de Can Simon - Tossa del mar, Girona

La Llar - Roses, Girona

Cal l'Enric - La Vall de Bianya, Girona

Can Jubani - Calldetenes, Girona

Jordi Parramon - Vic, Girona

Malena - Lleida

Carballeira - Butsenit, Lleida

I would still be interested to know if there are other cooking schools with restaurants that hold michelin stars.

Silly.

Thanks for the list. I got scared for a moment with the list above that did not include all the one stars. This certainly makes more sense. Is Mugaritz then only one star? I would have expected it to have two at least given the discussion here.

I knew from your cooking school topic that Hofmann was a cooking school of significant repute, but I was unaware of the associated restaurant. Live and learn :wink:

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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I want to add my opinion that Hisop is on the uptake matching Alchimia in it's creativity. I am delighted Alchimia received it's first star. Certainly deserved. Our last meal Oct. '04 was very uneven and mildly disappointing. We found Hisop the most satisfying meal in Barcelona, also Oct. '04.

Hoffmann is a shock to us. It is a decent restaurant but we were never moved to return after our visit 4 years ago.

Now SantCeloni in Madrid continues to be excellent. We tasted Santemaria's influence. His appointed chef is doing an fine job but 2 stars!!?

We lament that Mugaritz has only one star and we feel (as does R. G. Santos) that Aduriz is far more talented warranting 3 stars given our experience. Michelin , despite 3-4 letters, is unimpressed. JGebhart

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Judith, I am delighted to see you making your way around the forum. I know next to nothing about this cusine, and I am looking forward to learning more from you and the other knowledgeable people here :smile:

Marlene

Practice. Do it over. Get it right.

Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.

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Pedro,

Any idea why hisop didn't get a star? I think it is comparable to Alkimia, don't you think?

Hi, Paul. Nice to have you back in Spain & Portugal. I haven't been yet to Alkimia or Hisop, so ...

I want to add my opinion that Hisop is on the uptake matching Alchimia in it's creativity. I am delighted Alchimia received it's first star. Certainly deserved. Our last meal Oct. '04 was very uneven and mildly disappointing. We found Hisop the most satisfying meal in Barcelona, also Oct. '04.

Hoffmann is a shock to us. It is a decent restaurant but we were never moved to return after our visit 4 years ago.

Now SantCeloni in Madrid continues to be excellent. We tasted Santemaria's influence. His appointed chef is doing an fine job but 2 stars!!?

We lament that Mugaritz has only one star and we feel (as does R. G. Santos) that Aduriz is far more talented warranting 3 stars given our experience. Michelin , despite 3-4 letters, is unimpressed.  JGebhart

The problem associated with comments made about an inconsistent and stingy guide is that you (I) move in quicksands: I mean, I'd agree with you that probably the cuisine of Sant Celoni doesn't deserve two stars, but in the other hand, there are so many others who do, that you can't avoid the feeling of joy when anyone gets a new star. Anyone.

We've covered this before in the forum, but IMHO guide which gives you a more balanced view of gastronomy in Spain is the Guía Campsa. If you assume that traditional inspired cuisines means nothing to him, Rafael García Santos's Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía gives you a consistent rating of avant garde cooking in Spain.

PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)

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Thanks Pedro. We have used all the guide books Campsa, Gourmetour, LMG and of course the most stingy, as Pedro so accurately describes, Michelin. Now to add to the lamentable decisions Michelin has made is the exclusion of Etxebarri, a marvelous restaurant in Axpe, Vizcaya. The chef is Victor Arguinzoniz. His a la brasa cooking is unique and without equal anywhere! IMHO of course. He is located in a fairly remote, but beautiful mountain area, down the road from Durango. Michelin dropped the listing entirely just this year, 2004!!!

If you are a Michelin "only" guide reader, you will be missing some wonderful restaurant choices. Too bad that Gault Millau no longer reaches across the border to report on Spain's best eateries, as they once did. J Gebhart

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When a restaurant I particularly like is dropped, or wasn't in the Michelin guide, I often wonder if they've chosen to be omitted. I could never understand why Ca L'Isidre in Barcelona wasn't listed. Perhaps it's not the best restaurant in Barcelona, but it's far better than the average place listed. In fact Campsa rates it two "suns." Surely there's more than meets the eye in this omission.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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Too bad that Gault Millau no longer reaches across the border to report on Spain's best eateries, as they once did.

Too bad GaultMillau no longer is anything like GaultMillau...

Actually, Spain is back in their 2005 edition, as well as Belgium, Germany, Switzerland... But they only list top restaurants (from 16 to 19/20) : ElBulli, the Fat Duck, De Karmeliet, Lea Linster, etc. 60 or 70 pages: not bad, huh?

"Mais moi non plus, j'ai pas faim! En v'là, une excuse!..."

(Jean-Pierre Marielle)

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