Le Gavroche - The Topic

[Matthew Grant]

Has anybody done a search on Le Gavroche in Google?

It appears,impossible as it might seem, to have delusions of grandeur

Le Gavroche with mystery 3rd Michelin star!

[MobyP]

Caw - where you been? Everyone knows that Albert named his son Trois Etoile Michel Lyn Roux.

That said...

Edited February 11, 2005 by MobyP (log)

[Gareth]

Their web site says "Dress is smart casual; men are required to wear a jacket."

This is good news. It tells me that at least I have not yet reached the age where my definition of casual starts to include jackets.

[Simon Farrow]

Their web site says "Dress is smart casual; men are required to wear a jacket."

This is good news. It tells me that at least I have not yet reached the age where my definition of casual starts to include jackets.

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I remember trying to get in there in the eighties. We arrived in out best bib and tucker (corduroy sports jackets etc). The maitre d sneered at us and said something like "non, you must understand the queen mother eats here". We were summarily refused entry.

As a young man keen on exploring new food experiences this was an unexpected slap in the face. I began to realise the degree of snobbery and elitism that *can* unfortunately be sometimes associated with good food. I am sure Le Gavroche is now far more welcoming to people who are not members of the aristocracy than they were then. probably....

Edited February 11, 2005 by Simon Farrow (log)

[howardlong]

Their web site says "Dress is smart casual; men are required to wear a jacket."

This is good news. It tells me that at least I have not yet reached the age where my definition of casual starts to include jackets.

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I remember trying to get in there in the eighties. We arrived in out best bib and tucker (corduroy sports jackets etc). The maitre d sneered at us and said something like "non, you must understand the queen mother eats here". We were summarily refused entry.

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Well they've lightened up a little. I was in there last Tuesday or Wednesday, and I arrived (as is customary for me these days) on my push bike wearing smart jeans and a sports jacket with open-necked shirt. This is more casual than I normally do for LG, and I could tell from the way Maitre d' Silvano looked down a couple of times at what was covering les jambes as I entered.

I emplore you all to try the Menu Exceptionel on at Le Gavroche that they started last week. To be frank, I went about a month ago just after New Year and I just did not get on with their ME - the second time I'd had it, and the sceond time it just did not get me excited.

But now it's a transformation. And, it just gets better and better as the courses arrive. If I dare to remember, after a couple of sumptuous amuse bouches (including the most perfectly done quails egg - an LG masterpiece - yolk still runny even though it's cold) and a tempura'd prawn, it starts with seared tuna. Then John Dory - that I didn't have as they'd run out so I had cod. Then another LG signature - duck pancakey thingies with foie gras. Now I find this foie a bit to dry for me, but as a whole I would never turn this dish down.

The main is lamb from the Pyrenees - man, these sheep must be tiny. Basically four tiny chops and the liver - oh, with the liver. Just beautiful.

Now things get really superb with the three blue cheese salad with pear. Done as small separate portions, you get Forme d'Ambert, Stilton and then melted Roquefort over pear. I don't know how to spell yumtastic, which is good, because it was far, far, better than that.

After this point it appears that I was somewhat overcome because I have forgotten all about the fruity desserts that appeared.

Then came the chocolatey kind of over-kill you really need after all the above. With that bit of gold leaf they always do.

Sommelier Francois was just awesome as always - he makes me feel like family - I have a couple of interesting stories to tell you off the board ;-)

Massive. Don't miss it. Anyone up for it this week before the GF returns from her round-the-world trip on Saturday?

Cheers, Howard

[tony h]

Howard - very tempted to take you up on your offer on Le Gav but I'm already off the Waterside Inn this week - first time. Anything there extra special to watch out for?

[howardlong]

Howard - very tempted to take you up on your offer on Le Gav but I'm already off the Waterside Inn this week - first time.  Anything there extra special to watch out for?

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I'm not a regular at the Waterside so I don't think I'm in a position to comment I'm afraid. Unless there is an uncharacteristic aberration of galactic proportions, I am sure your sojourn the the Waterside will be wonderful!

Cheers, Howard

[howardlong]

Massive. Don't miss it. Anyone up for it this week before the GF returns from her round-the-world trip on Saturday?

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Have moved dinner invite to ISO thread here... Le Gavroche 17 Feb 2005 9:30pm

Cheers, Howard

[Bapi]

Howard - very tempted to take you up on your offer on Le Gav but I'm already off the Waterside Inn this week - first time.  Anything there extra special to watch out for?

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I am not sure that a twice yearly pilgrimage qualifies me as a regular at the Waterside Inn- BLH, but here are my suggestions for you anyway.

Get there in good time and enjoy a drink perusing the menu in the lounge. ( Naturally, the terrace overlooking the river will be closed as it's February).

I would think the Menu Exceptionnel would be a good way to sample a selection of dishes. Even though I am lucky enough to say we have been a few times( don't tell my Bank Manager), we always opt for the Menu Exceptionnel anyway, as I think it provides a better experience all round in terms of pacing and enjoyment. I have waffled on about this before on the WI threads that I am a complete sucker for their Pan-fried lobster medallion with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne dish. A taste of which you may decide upon if you opt for the Menu Exceptionnel. A must in my humble opinion.

Wine mark ups are unsurprisingly quite high - but the list is fantastic and naturally, entirely French. We have always tended to navigate towards the Louis Jadot burgundies they offer. The staff to are utterly charming and efficient and make sure you have a chat with the manager Diego- owner of the biggest smile in Berkshire.

Above all- relax and enjoy. I am indeed jealous and have to wait till June for our next Lunch there.

PS If you are driving - wash your car. One of my best friends went last year and he was so embarrassed about the state of his car he left it round the corner !

[Pweaver1984]

Have any Egulleters been to Le Gavroche des Tropiques yet? What have the reviews been like? How much input do the Roux family have?

[Paula Jonvik]

Have any Egulleters been to Le Gavroche des Tropiques yet? What have the reviews been like? How much input do the Roux family have?

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Hello Pweaver:

Haven't been to the new property- yet.

As far as reviews, I haven't seen or heard a peep, but then, I expect everything to be absolutely magnificent!

Michel Roux Jr has 100% input, as the restaurant is of his creation and design. Several of his Gavroche team have transfered to Maritius to run the place.

The most important thing to remember is that the local of this restaurant is due W-SW from the terrible Tsunami... even though no damage was sustained (just high surf) it is a possibility that it might take a little while for LGdT to settle in and really get going...

I predict that LGdT will become a very popular dining haunt for people who visit the island paradise.

Michel has also (early 2004) opened the Walbrook Club in the city of London, and was also consulting for a friend of his who has a Sports Bar/Bistro down Clapham way.

Paula

[SamanthaF]

Le Gavroche is a restaurant that I just can't get excited about. I had one of the most expensive, uncomfortable and bland dinners here last year. 2 stars? IMHO it's hugely overated.

And I hated the way that they pimp their wares at every opportunity. Has anyone really got all of the LG crap that you can buy from the brochures?

[howardlong]

Le Gavroche is a restaurant that I just can't get excited about. I had one of the most expensive, uncomfortable and bland dinners here last year. 2 stars? IMHO it's hugely overated.

I guess it must be a case of different strokes for different folks. I am not sure what you found uncomfortable about it, but I'm intrigued - was it the seats, or where you were sitting?

I was wondering, how much did you expected to spend, how much _did_ you spend, and what wine were you drinking?

Personally I would struggle to call the food bland, even though I have had a couple of times when I have not been over-excited about the food on the menu exceptionnel and the one time I went a la carte, although balance that with the fact that I have dined at LG about twenty times in the past couple of years. I wonder if you were dining a la carte or the Menu Exceptionel?

Regarding the two stars, IMHO I have no problem in regarding it as a fair evaluation - I would actually put it at 2.7 stars if there was the choice.

And I hated the way that they pimp their wares at every opportunity. Has anyone really got all of the LG crap that you can buy from the brochures?

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I agree with you about this, although to be honest I don't even notice the card on the table any more or the books at reception. I can't say that it iritates me in the way you obviously are!

I witnessed an interesting situation in LG last week. An seemingly well-moneyed chap of the old money variety close to retirement was entertaining three other gentlemen, and what can only be described as their 'escorts' for the evening. They were hitting the Dom Perignon and Petrus in a big way. Rather than ordering their starters & mains at the beginning of the meal, they ordered the starters, consumed them, then had the menu back, then ordered their mains.

They then decided that they'd complain that they'd had to wait too long for their mains. Silvano tried to explain that the food was prepared and timed to reflect ordering all together at the start of the meal, but it fell on deaf ears.

By the way, LG has been completely non smoking in the restaurant since the beginning of the year. If you want a smoke, you must go upstairs to the bar.

The old sofa area is now used for dining, and the spots adjacent the kitchen door that sometimes draw criticism are no longer used for dining.

Cheers, Howard

[Paula Jonvik]

Le Gavroche is a restaurant that I just can't get excited about. I had one of the most expensive, uncomfortable and bland dinners here last year. 2 stars? IMHO it's hugely overated.

I guess it must be a case of different strokes for different folks. I am not sure what you found uncomfortable about it, but I'm intrigued - was it the seats, or where you were sitting?

I was wondering, how much did you expected to spend, how much _did_ you spend, and what wine were you drinking?

Personally I would struggle to call the food bland, even though I have had a couple of times when I have not been over-excited about the food on the menu exceptionnel and the one time I went a la carte, although balance that with the fact that I have dined at LG about twenty times in the past couple of years. I wonder if you were dining a la carte or the Menu Exceptionel?

Regarding the two stars, IMHO I have no problem in regarding it as a fair evaluation - I would actually put it at 2.7 stars if there was the choice.

And I hated the way that they pimp their wares at every opportunity. Has anyone really got all of the LG crap that you can buy from the brochures?

←

I agree with you about this, although to be honest I don't even notice the card on the table any more or the books at reception. I can't say that it iritates me in the way you obviously are!

I witnessed an interesting situation in LG last week. An seemingly well-moneyed chap of the old money variety close to retirement was entertaining three other gentlemen, and what can only be described as their 'escorts' for the evening. They were hitting the Dom Perignon and Petrus in a big way. Rather than ordering their starters & mains at the beginning of the meal, they ordered the starters, consumed them, then had the menu back, then ordered their mains.

They then decided that they'd complain that they'd had to wait too long for their mains. Silvano tried to explain that the food was prepared and timed to reflect ordering all together at the start of the meal, but it fell on deaf ears.

By the way, LG has been completely non smoking in the restaurant since the beginning of the year. If you want a smoke, you must go upstairs to the bar.

The old sofa area is now used for dining, and the spots adjacent the kitchen door that sometimes draw criticism are no longer used for dining.

Cheers, Howard

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I'm with you on this one Mr. Long...

I can't understand it either? But as you so aptly put it, "Different strokes...".

I'd just like to add- What exactly would the fine dining scene in London, or England for that matter be like if it hadn't been for the Roux's? Can you say SHITE on this site?

As for the pimping of collectibles, I would hazard a guess that these are on offer to try to curb the hundreds, possibly thousands of pounds sterling worth of the exact items being stolen from the restaurant by diners annually.

I never see the merchandise carte when I am there, because I am having too good of a time eating, drinking and being merry... I can't imagine being so bored there that I would have to resort to reading the merchandise carte?

Can you still enjoy a cigar there? Glad to hear they shuffled things around in the dining room.

Paula

[howardlong]

Hi Paula

As for the pimping of collectibles, I would hazard a guess that these are on offer to try to curb the hundreds, possibly thousands of pounds sterling worth of the exact items being stolen from the restaurant by diners annually.

I never see the merchandise carte when I am there, because I am having too good of a time eating, drinking and being merry... I can't imagine being so bored there that I would have to resort to reading the merchandise carte?

The only obvious in-your-face thing on offer is a signed cookbook, advertised on a small card about 3" by 3" on each table.

You can buy the table ornaments made out of cutlery, and I've seen other restaurants in France and Switzerland with exactly the same designs. The only way you know they're for sale is if you comment about them, something I've seen a few folks do.

Other bits and pieces are available at the main entrance.

Can you still enjoy a cigar there? Glad to hear they shuffled things around in the dining room.

Not in the dining room, you have to go up to the bar area upstairs.

Cheers, Howard

[SamanthaF]

Le Gavroche is a restaurant that I just can't get excited about. I had one of the most expensive, uncomfortable and bland dinners here last year. 2 stars? IMHO it's hugely overated.

I guess it must be a case of different strokes for different folks. I am not sure what you found uncomfortable about it, but I'm intrigued - was it the seats, or where you were sitting?

I was wondering, how much did you expected to spend, how much _did_ you spend, and what wine were you drinking?

Personally I would struggle to call the food bland, even though I have had a couple of times when I have not been over-excited about the food on the menu exceptionnel and the one time I went a la carte, although balance that with the fact that I have dined at LG about twenty times in the past couple of years. I wonder if you were dining a la carte or the Menu Exceptionel?

Regarding the two stars, IMHO I have no problem in regarding it as a fair evaluation - I would actually put it at 2.7 stars if there was the choice.

And I hated the way that they pimp their wares at every opportunity. Has anyone really got all of the LG crap that you can buy from the brochures?

←

I agree with you about this, although to be honest I don't even notice the card on the table any more or the books at reception. I can't say that it iritates me in the way you obviously are!

I witnessed an interesting situation in LG last week. An seemingly well-moneyed chap of the old money variety close to retirement was entertaining three other gentlemen, and what can only be described as their 'escorts' for the evening. They were hitting the Dom Perignon and Petrus in a big way. Rather than ordering their starters & mains at the beginning of the meal, they ordered the starters, consumed them, then had the menu back, then ordered their mains.

They then decided that they'd complain that they'd had to wait too long for their mains. Silvano tried to explain that the food was prepared and timed to reflect ordering all together at the start of the meal, but it fell on deaf ears.

By the way, LG has been completely non smoking in the restaurant since the beginning of the year. If you want a smoke, you must go upstairs to the bar.

The old sofa area is now used for dining, and the spots adjacent the kitchen door that sometimes draw criticism are no longer used for dining.

Cheers, Howard

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Uncomfortable because it was the hottest day of last year and there was a fault with the AC in the restaurant - and yet they still insisted that men keep their jackets on. Additionally uncomfortable as there were six of us at a table which was better suited for four. The placing of glasses (red, white and water) made any false move on the table to be a hazzard.

How much did I expect to spend? I spent pretty much what I expected. (I didn't go there expecting a 2.99 dinner) We spent "a lot".

I had the tasting menu. And you know what, I know it was bland as I can't remember most of what I ate. (Compare this to a meal at Ramsays RHR in 2002 when I can even tell you how the food was placed on my plate, or my first meal of 5 at Anthonys in the last 9 months when I can give you precise details of most of the courses.) Things I do recall - A good scallop dish. A really boring course that was described as a rack of lamb, but was infact a single (very small) cutlet served with baby veg in a potato basket (tres 70's), a cheese course that consisted of some goats cheese on a stick and something else equally nasty and a dessert that could have been prepared by me that morning.

When I eat out at this level, I want WOW factor, I want comfort and I don't want to be sold anything but my meal and my wine. LG did not (on this occasion) meet any of these requirements whatsoever.

So to give LG 2.7 stars is (IMHO) hilarious, but as you say, different strokes an all that.

Edited February 18, 2005 by SamanthaF (log)

[SamanthaF]

Paula,

You regularly rec'/hype LG and write your great poetry about it. Is there any disclosure (that I may have missed) about your (possible) association with LG?

SF

[SamanthaF]

"Blimey, guv, I ain't taken no-one there in years."  Thus spoke my cabbie in the approved argot, as he headed toward Le Gavroche.  Thirty years plus in the Roux family, and once a three star, I think it's fair to say that Le G just isn't much talked about any more.  I had no trouble switching my La Tante Claire reservation for a table for two here, but I found the dining room comfortably full on Wednesday evening, I suspect with long-time repeat customers spending plenty of money.

The service lived up to its billing, attentively coddling from the moment of arrival.  From an ice-cold street, into a warm, comfortable, spacious bar - how nice to find a restaurant with an adequate, separate bar area.  Champagne and canapes - soft gull's egg, crab salad - while awaiting my dining companion.  All staff seemed to be French, and I was impressed by what I would describe as a "total service" experience; everyone seemed equally equipped and willing to explain wine, take a drink order, discuss the menu, accept a coat, talk about the weather...  Although the traditional ranks among the serving staff clearly exist, it was a refreshing change from the usual demarcation of labor.  And the service was friendly and smiling as well as efficient. 

We ordered at the bar, then descended into the dining room.  This was my first visit; it has been suggested that the room has been refurbished recently, but I saw nothing which differed from my expectations.  The racing green colors, oil paintings, and Le Gavroche mascot (a little urchin on the plates, cutlery, cloches, etc) were all present.  It was a little noisier, and the tables closer together, than I had imagined.  Also, a huge shock to someone living in the States, some people were smoking; not intrusively, but noticeably.

Nothing innovative or challenging on the menu, thanks god.  No fusion, no Asian accents, no interesting garnishes.  A list of solid French classics, with a couple of game specials.  I ordered a dish which must have been at least a hundred years old when Liebling described it:  coeur d'artichaut Lucullus - a tender artichoke heart stuffed with foie gras and black truffles, topped with a cap of chicken mousse as light as a beaten egg white, truffled demi-glace sauce.

Rejecting the wild boar, I chose the assiette des chausseurs.  A large (and chewy and salty) potato galette was the base for a mound of tasty venison (roe deer, I believe), teal and snipe breasts, and a snipe head complete with beak.  A red wine sauce, helped out with mushrooms and more black truffles, spinach to garnish the plate.  Apart from the potato, an entirely successful dish.

The cheese trolley was all it should be; large, French, and everything looking the right sort of age.  Also, none of this "three cheeses for $18" nonsense; you ordered what you fancied.  No fruit confits either.  The sommelier guided us to one of a number of Cote Roties in the 75-80 pound range, a very pleasant '97. 

My slender and delicate companion, having licked her plates clean of scallops and roast lamb, managed a good heap of cheese.  Neither of us were capable of dessert, suspecting rightly that petits fours would appear.  Chocolates, jellied fruits, macaroons (not brilliant) came with coffee.  The waiter suggested a cognac, but I insisted he wheel the groaning digestif trolley over.  My companion, practically a teetotaller, demurred, but after discussing a giant bottle of prune eau de vie with the sommelier was comped to half a pint or so, which she swallowed to my amazement.  I  took a 1973 Bas Armagnac.

Since a number of people I have spoken to about this are considering going, let's not be shy about the price.  Around 270 pounds for two, including service (hey, service included in the bill, I love it.)  Depending on your exchange rate, that's around $440.  Expensive but not insane.  You could push it up by ordering dessert, but there are less expensive wines on the list too.  A complete experience, and quite excellent - if you are prepared to eat food which the chef did not invent last week. 

I will definitely return.  I need to eat the organic farmhouse pig: belly, ears and trotters with pommes aligote. 

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Interesting to note that that todays exchange rate that is nearly 500 dollars for ALC - not even the Tasting.

[SamanthaF]

Just remembered! They failed the "Napkin Test"* as well.

*See the aknowledgements in Jay Rayners The Apologist.

[Andy Lynes]

a cheese course that consisted of some goats cheese on a stick

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I've got this mental image of a smartly suited waiter wheeling up a trolley to the table, lifting a cloche to reveal half an upturned grapefruit stuck with various things on toothpicks. "Would madame like to sample the cheese and pineapple today, or we have some badly overcooked cocktail sausages? Some cheesey footballs perhaps?"

[SamanthaF]

a cheese course that consisted of some goats cheese on a stick

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I've got this mental image of a smartly suited waiter wheeling up a trolley to the table, lifting a cloche to reveal half an upturned grapefruit stuck with various things on toothpicks. "Would madame like to sample the cheese and pineapple today, or we have some badly overcooked cocktail sausages? Some cheesey footballs perhaps?"

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Andy,

I would have been delighted if they had bought the cheese trolley to us, but they didn't. The cheese we were given was the cheese we had to have. 2 bits of crap on a plate.

That was a big no no in my book. If I'm paying near on a ton for food alone, I want the trolley if it lists cheese on the menu. To compare the goats cheese with a lump of Tesco Value mild Cheddar on a stick would be fair.

Cheesey footballs would have gone down well at the end of that meal. ( Or frazzles. )

[Scott]

Paula,

You regularly rec'/hype LG and write your great poetry about it. Is there any disclosure (that I may have missed) about your (possible) association with LG?

SF

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samantha,

you write of experiences with an increasing disconnect to my own, do I presume a poisoned association with LG?

seriously,

Paula's fondness for this place is not unique, and your import is a perhaps little harsh...

[Lowblow]

What is 'Bresse pigeon' is it a particular breed of pigeon or species or is it another name for 'squab'?

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Pigeoneax de Bress or Bresse pigeon's are indeed a domesticated variety of pigeon (and therefore are Squabs) that are farmed in Bresse France, along with other types of Poultry. They have a fair bit more fat on them than European Wood Pigeons (their wild cousins) and it is this along with their free range rearing and the excellent feed they given, that makes them so much more tender and moist after roasting or grilling. As they can be quite fatty many French and English Resaurants are now preparing them in the "Poche Grille" manner (this is usualy done by briefly poaching the birds in barely simmering stock, the cooking of the bird is then completed under a salamnder or over head grill), when cooked in this manner they are gloriously tender whilst their skin becomes nicely crisp. The last time I cooked them at work I serverd them with a two large Wild Mushroom & Foie Gras Tortelini, braised Savoy Cabage and some Madeira jus. Last year my suplier was charging me eleven pounds per bird, although I dont know how much they are at the moment. If any one would like me to find out if there is a suplier that will ship to the U.S.A. just leave a reply. This is my first post on this forum, and I would like to appologise for my spelling mistakes in advance.

Edited March 7, 2005 by Lowblow (log)

[MobyP]

Welcome to eGullet, Lowblow. Do you work in the UK, France, the US?

[Lowblow]

Welcome to eGullet, Lowblow. Do you work in the UK, France, the US?

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Thanks for the welcome MobyP, I live and usualy work in London, although I have worked in France.