My weekend in the city of brotherly love

[Bux]

We went to Philadelphia to eat at Le Bec Fin. I won't be coy, Frederic Cote, the new chef, is an acquaintance and it would have been difficult for me to report anything less than major success. Fortunately we had a superb meal that would rank among the best we've had in New York. I don't think there was a dish that would have been disappointing had we had it at Daniel or Jean Georges for example.

I'd never been to Le Bec Fin before, but understood it to offer traditional food. With the exception of perfectly rare beef with foie gras and truffle in pastry crust, I don't think there was a dish we had that wasn't either a very personal or highly original preparation. An olive soup with cherry tomatoes, micro croutons and an oval of brandade was stunning and without precedent in my experience. Although we never got to see a menu, this dish is apparently one of the current offerings. About to come on the menu is a dish of large langoustines (one would have been enough, but apparently small portions don't cut it in Philly, even on tasting menus) in a piquant sauce with an incredibly fine julienne of vegetables cut so fine that I suspect the difference between raw and limp would have been seconds. Nevertheless, the vegetables and the langoustines were perfectly cooked. Everything was really excellent, but I can't overlook the perfectly balanced sauce of rhubarb with cumin and cilantro that accompanied the swordfish, nor can I mention the fish without noting the wonderful contrast between the caramelized surface and the moist interior.

We were given too much food and thus I can only note that the cheese cart looked wonderful. If the savories were all 21st century, dessert was a throw back to the 1980s or earlier, but it was a golden oldies moment. There are no plated desserts and one can't help noticing the chariot des desserts--a multi-tiered trolley piled high with French classic cakes and desserts, as you arrive in the dining room. Multiple selections are not only encouraged, but almost required. When I stopped at three, you could sense the server's disappointment.

Negatives? Certainly not the dessert trolly. Five years ago it might have seemed old fashioned. Now it's a respite. I thought the service was often too evident and unnecessary. We had hardly a chance to sit before the waiter was attempting to place our napkins on our laps. There were always too many knives, forks and spoons on the table. In France, and in NY, I've become accustomed to having only those utensils I may need for the course at hand. All of this I can chalk up to local preference and custom, although it's probably all Le Bec Fin as I suspect it may be the only local restaurant of it's sort. We found the amuses surprisingly heavy, lacking in the finesse of the courses to follow and generally too large and filling.

We arrived in Philadelphia at lunch time. I had done some cheesesteak research on Holly's site and we found Sonny's to be convenient for us. Although it did not get Holly's top rating, it was a "Best of Philly" award winner. Charitably, I can say I don't get cheesesteaks. The bread was okay, but no better. It might have been better used for toasted pannini. My problem is really with the meat which is cooked to the degree at which it has the least taste and the most uninteresting texture. I found my sandwich improved with the addition of salt, mustard, ketchup and hot sauce. It was a cultural experience, but we all wondered about the Cuban sandwiches at the Latino restaurant around the corner.

Carman's, on the other hand, was all it's cracked up to be (I supose there's a pun in there) and a genuine American treat. With four of us, we managed to order just about one of everything. As I suspected the French toast and pancakes were, in my opinion, heads and shoulders above the omelette, which I also would choose over the fried chicken. The buttermilk pancakes with almonds and white figs, both in the batter and on top were really a treat as was my challah French toast with fresh peaches and blackberries. Plates are big, tables are small, the wait for a table may be long, the service is slow, but the staff is wonderful.

[Jason Perlow]

"Charitably, I can say I don't get cheesesteaks"

Bux. somehow the idea of you eating a humble cheesesteak is a bit surreal.

[Fat Guy]

Bux, your report gives me renewed incentive to visit Le Bec Fin soon. Did you ever read Steve Klc's article in Food Arts bemoaning the disappearance of dessert carts?

When I think about the elegant simplicity of what Carman is doing with French toast and pancakes, I have to wonder why the heck there is no restaurant in New York City serving breakfast anywhere near that caliber. I doubt it's even a question of rent versus prices: Her prices are not insignificant, and a New York restaurant serving food like that could easily charge 50% more and have lines around the block ala the inferior Sarabeth's.

[Bux]

I haven't had a subscription to Food Arts in some time. I should see about fixing that. There was much about the decor and service at le Bec Fin that I found curious. It's an interesting and respectful clientele. I'm not convinced they know as much about food as New Yorkers, but they don't tend to ask for sauce on the side and come to dine with respect for the chef and the restaurant rather than with the arrongance of some NY diners. As I said, there's an element of time capsule, but the food is very contemporary under Cote.

Of course there's no Carman's in NYC. Where would you put it? There may be a corner that resembles hers somewhere in Staten Island. Actually, I think she's a fluke and would be anywhere. I'd expect that in a college town, except as you note, it's not really a cheap breakfast, although a bargain assuming you don't mind sitting four at a table sized for two cocktails.

[Fat Guy]

Awhile back I went to college, in one of the world's most stereotypical college towns: Burlington, VT. There were several restaurants with the character of Carman's, but none actually served good food!

[Bux]

It was not to discredit Philadelphia, let alone the rather ordinary neighborhood in which Carman located herself, to suggest that it was a fluke where it was. It would seem to be a fluke almost anywhere. However, I've been in Burlington and I know what you mean. Burlington, as I recall, is full of appealing little places that serve mediocre food.

[Holly Moore]

There is no restaurant like Carman's Country Kitchen in NYC because there is no Carman in New York.

Though Carman's ability to seat four at a table for two is impressive, I think I may hold a record in that area.  I once sat 14 at a table for two for apps and drinks.  I'm almost as proud at that feat as I am in taking the Big Mac national.

Steven, let me know when you're ready for Le Bec-Fin.  I always look for an opportunity.  Bunch of pikers here in Philly, at least among my friends - can hardly find anyone to head there with me.

Bux:  I'm not convinced they (Le Bec-Fin diners) know as much about food as New Yorkers...

Alas it may be true.  Why else would we provencial, dare-I-say hick, Philadelphians make it a point at the start of each meal to bow our heads and give thanks for those ever-so-knowledgable New Yorkers who, like New Jersey's Statue of Liberty is to ships-at-sea, are the free world's beacon to all things culinary.

(Edited by Holly Moore at 4:11 pm on Oct. 22, 2001)

[Fat Guy]

That's all well and good, Holly, but the Statue of Liberty is in New York.

[Holly Moore]

Typical New Yorker view of their world.

It's on the Jersey side, it's in Jersey.   New York stole it.  One of these days Jersey will succeed in it's long time efforts to get her back.

[Jason Perlow]

He's right Steven. Liberty State Park is in NJ, and the Statue of Liberty is part of that property.

[Fat Guy]

Holly: I hear Staten Island is in New Jersey too, by that reasoning . . . :)

Jason: I defy you to find a single credible source, anywhere, to support the contention that the Statue of Liberty is in New Jersey. Anyway, isn't Liberty State Park where the Liberty Science Center is? I thought the Statue of Liberty was on something called Liberty Island, NY.

See:

http://glasssteelandstone.home.att.net/USA-NY.html#StatueofLiberty

and

http://www.endex.com/gf/buildings/liberty/libertyquestions.htm

[Bux]

Holly - I don't know how many non-pikers there are in Philadelphia, but certainly enough to pack Le Bec Fin the night we were there.

It appears you took offense when I said:

I'm not convinced they (Le Bec-Fin diners) know as much about food as New Yorkers...

Allow me to question why you didn't also credit me for noting:

but they don't tend to ask for sauce on the side and come to dine with respect for the chef and the restaurant rather than with the arrongance of some NY diners.

which is what appeared where you placed ellipses.

I think the complete sentence speaks for itself. I came, I saw, I was impressed, but not enough to be convinced. It's not so much that I wasn't impressed enough to be convinced, but that in my short visit I did not see enough.

On another eGullet board, I've noted that I had wonderful coffee in Philadelphia and that I found out it was from a local roaster, but also served at Daniel and the Waldorf Astoria in NY. I'm not likely to feel I've been engaged in Philly bashing even if I don't find the appeal in a cheesesteak. At any rate they were my comments and I don't know I'm represetative of New Yorkers.

[Holly Moore]

No offense taken Bux.  

Was just gently chiding that infamous New York state of mind thing as was so well depicted in the old New Yorker mag map of the United States as seen by a New Yorker.

You didn't really think any Philadelphian would not take issue with an opinion stating, "I'm not convinced they (Le Bec-Fin diners) know as much about food as New Yorkers" even if you did soften the blow with the rest of that paragraph.  I agreed with that part, by the way.

Out of curiosity, which New Yorkers are so food knowledgeable?  Just Mid Manhatanites and Village/ Soho dwellers or also those from the Bronx and Staten Island (Steven assures me that Staten Island is part of NYC)?  New York Times readers or Post readers?  Those who ride in cabs or those who drive them?

Seriously, I'll concede that New York City, because of its population, has a lot more restaurants, probably some ethnic cuisines that can't be found in Philadelphia and more depth of great restaurants.   But, here in Philadelphia I can probably get French, Italian, Chinese, Fish and similar high cuisine meals every bit as good as can be found in NYC.

I will admit that NYC has better hot dogs than Philly.  But not as good as North Jersey.  And I know a few food knowledgable New Yorkers who think nothing of driving to Philadelphia for breakfast.  

(Edited by Holly Moore at 7:40 pm on Oct. 22, 2001)

[Holly Moore]

By the way, Bux, Carman and I are heading to New York in December to see the Producers.  Is this a good time to ask you for help in getting reservations at Daniel. :)

[Jason Perlow]

Holly, is Carman your babe?

[Holly Moore]

You Kidding???

I often can't even keep up with her as a best friend.

[cabrales]

We went to Philadelphia to eat at Le Bec Fin.

I'd appreciate hearing about other members' recent experience with Le Bec Fin.