First Dinner at the New Striped Bass

[tim olivett]

Went Friday April 30th. Surprised to not find more Alfred Portale staples since his menu has remained so consistent over the years at Gotham Bar & Grill. No seafood salad, no Foie Gras Terrine with haricot vert, no tuna with pappardelle and red wine sauce, etc though there was a steak called the "Gotham" steak.

Chef Portale was there even though we arrived at 10:30pm after jumping ship (I work on a boat and I can't believe I actually used a nautical pun, after a year you'd think I'd be so over them, anyway...)

Seemed like a true collaboration between the chef de cuisine Christopher Lee (I think that's his last name) and Exec Chef Portale, even in presentation as I saw many similarities to the plating style shown at Oceana with Cornelius Gallagher who the CDC worked under before this project.

Always the sign of a smart manager, one who guides but also relies on those under him. No overtly vertical presentations which the man practically introduced to the culinary world.

This was their third night open and I have to hand it to the Starr organization, the room felt casual yet lush, we were in chef pants and casual pullovers and felt pampered while not feeling like we stuck out like sore thumbs or uncomfortable in anyway. The demeanor of the staff had a polish that many restaurants that have been open for years are still striving for. I'm sorry for forgetting our server's name, maybe Amy, I'm not sure, she had come from Fork and for her first night on the floor actually gave some of the best, most well informed and confident service I've had in the city outside of the Fountain at the Four Seasons.

So, on with the food. Amuse of smoked salmon rillete, caviar and a potato chip which was ok. Then a knock out soup of spring garlic with frog legs that was brothy and creamy, both homey and refined and still lingering in my mind as I write this. A risotto of asparagus, morels and peas was a little flat. Foie gras crusted in gingerbread crumbs with kumquats and 25 year old balsamic was nice but the balsamic lost the battle with kumquats, would've been great alone (I always feel if you're pouring on something that costs about $8 a tablespoon it should be left alone to shine, not compete. A tuna entree was served on a long rectangle, with a deconstructed look, 4 cubes of absolutely pristine tuna with some fleur del sel (I think maldon) on top of the ruby flesh and buttered julienne of yellow squash and haricot vert. Along side, or more accurately across the plate in it's own little neighborhood (remember, deconstructed) was a small cube of short rib, braised and glazed in its own jus with a streak of buttery, Robuchon pommes puree running parallel to the line of tuna on the opposite side of the plate. I rarely like tuna without Asian flavors and this was a subtle yet flavorful with a fish that's flavor can be so wonderful but elusive at the same time. A skate wing, with fingerlings, porcini and a brown butter sauce reminiscent of Bouley's sauce "aromatic" (pronounced arrow ma teek) streaked the plate. The skate was folded onto itself with a farce of porcini duxelle and served on top of the ragout. The porcini were fresh though a bit underwhelming, but that's part of the gamble when you buy stuff that can't be cultivated, still the skate was the freshest one I've had since I've been to Philly, I'm not sure if they've still got Tony the fish guy but you could tell they must be cleaning the skate themselves or getting much fresher than I've been able to get (you ever clean a skate wing? Not much fun, it's prickly and slippery and time consuming.)

Chef Portale came over several times to the our table and was most gracious, we talked about Philly (he really likes it and enjoys the welcome he's gotten) and I mentioned some local farmers and he returned later with a pen and paper for me to write them down (thanks Greg @ RX-by the way I gave him your number so if someone calls saying it's Alfred Portale don't think it's somebody prank calling you). Many chefs act like they've got it all in the bag and he was very warm and open to talking to us about adjusting to Philly and the like (both Ralph (the Moshulu's executive chef and I cooked in NYC).

Dessert was outstanding, a dessert named for it's creator a Michel Cluizel (SP?-the new Valhrona-like chocolate of the moment) chocolate tart that was like a souffle in croute, a tart shell of pate sucree with a souffle like batter inside topped with a crust served with hazlenut ice cream and a caramelized hazelnut. A duo of creme brulee; orange cardamom and chocolate and a complimentary serving of a strawberry mascarpone tart with strawberry balsamic ice cream were all wonderful.

The room was actually dramatic without being overstated. It definitely retained some of the feel of the old Bass while making it it's own. Of course the big old fish is still above the kitchen and the clock above the entrance. The open kitchen wasn't quite the dazzling one I expected, while certainly an improvement over the worn and battered stuff I saw them pull out on the street a month ago that looked like it belonged in a basement, not a display kitchen. But watching Chef Portale is an inspiration as his understated demeanor still manages to convey his experience, wisdom and professionalism.

Anyway, welcome to Philly chef, we're honored to have you here and it is obvious that he isn't giving us some watered down version of Gotham Bar and Grill but still working at it and pushing himself and his crew to give us the great restaurant we deserve and his respect which I know will come back to him tenfold.

Edited May 2, 2004 by tim olivett (log)

[bunny]

anyone else been lately

[KatieLoeb]

anyone else been lately

I've been to the bar for drinks. The new chandeliers are dazzling, but the floor to ceiling heavy dove grey velvet curtains that are never opened really make that soaring room seem claustrophobic and closed down. The lack of natural light and covering up that gorgeous metal work on the outsides of the windows is puzzling to me. New decor is nice otherwise.

The by the glass wines offer a nice choice of a 3 oz., 5 oz. or 7 oz. pour served to the guest in a small carafe. I think that's a great concept.

I met Chef Portale and Chef de Cuisine Christopher Lee and they were very pleasant and professional. I invited them to stop by Rouge, which they did, but unfortunately I missed them. I understand they enjoyed everything though.

The menu looks interesting, and it's not all-fish-all-the-time as it was during the prior regime. More diversity of choices which is definitely a good thing.

I hear from my former co-workers that are back there that they are expected to do the "canned speeches" and phrases that the Starr staffs are known for. Definitely cramps their style with the old regulars that they wish to greet with a little more enthusiasm and genuine personality.

I'll have commentary on the food after I eat there for the first time. Should happen sometime soon and I'll report back.

[Derek Lee]

I hear from my former co-workers that are back there that they are expected to do the "canned speeches" and phrases that the Starr staffs are known for. Definitely cramps their style with the old regulars that they wish to greet with a little more enthusiasm and genuine personality.

If I had to make one complaint about our visit to Morimoto, it would probably be the "canned" speech that we given to us by our waiter. It's one thing to be the recipient of a recital of the daily specials, which is fine and appreciated, but it's quite another thing to be instructed as to the proper way to eat something. Food was amazing, regardless of the order in which I put things into my mouth.

Morimoto suggests opening your mouth, depositing the food, and chewing it for exactly 30 seconds.

Derek

http://www.threateningletters.com

(When a kind word just isn't enough)

[KatieLoeb]

I hear from my former co-workers that are back there that they are expected to do the "canned speeches" and phrases that the Starr staffs are known for. Definitely cramps their style with the old regulars that they wish to greet with a little more enthusiasm and genuine personality.

If I had to make one complaint about our visit to Morimoto, it would probably be the "canned" speech that we given to us by our waiter. It's one thing to be the recipient of a recital of the daily specials, which is fine and appreciated, but it's quite another thing to be instructed as to the proper way to eat something. Food was amazing, regardless of the order in which I put things into my mouth.

Morimoto suggests opening your mouth, depositing the food, and chewing it for exactly 30 seconds.

Derek

http://www.threateningletters.com

(When a kind word just isn't enough)

The canned speeches are one of the things about the Starr restaurants that really bug me. It turns the wait staff into little Stepford Waitrons that are completely devoid of their own personalities, and more often than not the subject of the canned speeches is to upsell overpriced (and sometime really heinous) specialty cocktails. Telling me how to eat is even more offensive than that.

[Derek Lee]

Heh. Stepford Waitrons!

I like that. You should trademark that one.

Derek

http://www.threateningletters.com

(When a kind word just isn't enough)

[bunny]

has anyone else been in the last few weeks

[Bond Girl]

I would be interest ed in going if I am ever in Philly. I've met Chris when he was at Oceana in New York, and thought he was a very good chef. I am curious to see how he developed.

[bunny]

they have been open now well over 6 months has anyone seen a diffrence.

[herbacidal]

Those who I know that have gone have generally liked it.

IIRC, a chef friend of one of the mods and his wife loved it.

[bunny]

anyone been lately

[philadining]

anyone been lately

←

Does early January count? I thought it was outstanding. I have a review here.

The short version is that it's expensive, but worth it. I found the food to be creative and extremely well-executed. And it's hard to beat the setting, it's spectacular room. It was pretty quiet the night we were there, so I can't say how the service is in a crush, but both our server and the sommeliere were excellent on our visit.

[Lisa1349]

Had a chef tasting about 3 weeks ago. Granted, I was dining with some of the staff so extra hoops were jumped through. What an amazing experience. 9 courses, 3 people- everyone had different plates and wine for each, 27 tastings. My palate was tired for 2 days just thinking of everything so fabulous. Sommeliere did an amazing job.

Lobster 'pot pie' and tuna ceviche (separate plates) were the highlights.