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New Yorker restaurant article , circa 1980 ?


rotuts
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cheers .

 

I would deeply enjoy finding an article 

 

from the New Yorker 

 

circa 1980  , +/-  a year or three , downward.

 

it was a two part article , about a

 

French restaurant , N. of NYC. .

 

it was about the Chef

 

( nameless , running a nameless Restaurant  

 

i.e not mentioned in the article , purposely )

 

it was about .as I recall . the rhythm of the kitchen

 

and the kitchen was possibly only the Chef..

 

it where I first read mentioned 

 

that the ' stove : top and oven "

 

were called the piano .

 

you got the first side of what your were cooking

 

on the top one the stove

 

flipped it over , and it got finished in the oven.

 

as the Restaurant filled up :

 

The temp of the Piano's oven went up

 

accordingly. 

 

that technique was new to me 

 

and I had a brand new set of thick copper pans from 

 

Paris 

 

[ed.: 2 of them served very well for this technique ]

 

id love to read the 2 pard series

 

if a Periodical Sleuth here 

 

can find this article .

 

Reward :  Good Reading .

 

 

 

 

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