I remember going downstairs at Golden Mall to the 1st place, listening to his father try to communicate how proud he was of Bourdain’s visit, yelling “Bourdain, Bourdain” to any non-Asian passing by & pointing to Bourdain’s review, hanging on the stall wall. The notoriety allowed them to afford another stall at a now defunct mall 10 or so blocks away, staffed by his wife. Then his son joined the business with marketing skills & away they went.
As an aside, the original “Dumpling Lady” stall was right around the corner at another stall in Golden Mall, offering a large variety of fillings. She also got famous, and a large restaurant & well reviewed cookbook resulted (Helen You: Dumpling Galaxy). That mall was great. Dirty but great.
