Virginia Ham

[Stephen Jackson]

Evening all,

I'm just putting the finishing touches to a trip to DC and New York, and the one thing I mean to do in Washington is pick up a genuine country ham to take home. It's probably not allowed, but I'm willing to risk it.

So, whose hams should I look out for, and where should I go to pick one up?

Note that it must be somewhere fairly central in Washington, as I'm only in town for two days, and I have to do the tourist stuff like wave at the White House and throw myself down the Exorcist steps in Georgetown a la Father Karras.

Also, can anyone expand on the notion of the 'pulled pig sandwich'? I've heard talk....

[Jaymes]

Also, can anyone expand on the notion of the 'pulled pig sandwich'? I've heard talk....

I'd tell you, but frankly, I'm far more interested in what you've 'heard'....

[Jason Perlow]

Why bother with bringing US ham to the UK when there are plenty of good German, Italian and Spanish ones that are probably easily accessible to you?

[Stephen Jackson]

Because I've never tried it before. Simple.

[Schielke]

Doesn't the phrase "meat smuggling" violate the user agreement in some way?

Good luck with customs though!

Ben

[=Mark]

Pulled pork sandwiches are such a simple concept that it seems to fly in the face of reason that they are so difficult to track down commercially. To start, you take a big, boney, fatty hunk of pork...

Slam it on a smoker and smoke with light blue smoke at about 220f to 245f for between 6 and 9 hours, until a fork stuck in it can be twisted with little or no resistance. By this time the collagen in the gristle has broken down to gelatin and much of the fat has rendered out. This essentially self bastes the pork and makes it very tender and moist...

At this point, after resting for 20 or 30 minutes you can have at it with either a couple forks or bare hands and "pull" it to pieces. It is here where many establishments go wrong and either chop it or pull it too fine, giving it the overall consistancy of canned dog food. You want nice chunks and strings, with the flecks of browned flavorful outer portions evenly mixed throughout...

Place some of this on a soft bun with some good sauce on the side (Another commercial miscue, they use too much sauce, a sign of inferior product), maybe a spoon of cole slaw on top and enjoy!

[Jaymes]

Doesn't the phrase "meat smuggling" violate the user agreement in some way? 

Good luck with customs though!

Yes...'meat smuggling' and 'pulled pig.' I don't know about this 'Stephen' guy. Probably an alias.

And, Steve (we 'colonials' are so informal), as Mark points out, what you are talking about is 'pulled pork' (not that that's any better than 'pulled pig' but somehow the 'pig' thing seems funnier).

And personally, I find nothing unusual in your desire to take home a genuine U.S. country ham. After all, when we head your way, we haul back all the European ham we can manage.

[Rail Paul]

Pulled pork sandwiches are such a simple concept that it seems to fly in the face of reason that they are so difficult to track down commercially.  To start, you take a big, boney, fatty hunk of pork...

=Mark -

what are your thoughts on whether a British pig could be smoked and pulled as effectively as a Virginia or NC pig? The concept is relatively straightforward, I wonder if the pig breeding is sufficiently similar to make a similar result?

Paul

[Stephen Jackson]

Well, I'm sure if we wanted to pull pigs here in the UK, we could. There's a vogue for using 'old-breed' pigs like Tamworths and Gloucesters, and an incresing emphasis on getting pork back to being properly fatty and densely-textured. Once I've sampled the real thing on my trip i might just try 'pulling my own' back home.

Washing my hands afterwards, of course.

And thanks for the pictures, Mark. I'm now not at all interested in the cornfed duckling that's roasting for my supper. I want a sandwich.

[Vanessa]

Hey Stephen - just checked out your web-site. Then looked you up in the GFG. What can I say - except that you will be hearing from me whenever I need accommodation in the Huddersfield area. A not unlikely possibility.

v

edit: P.S. Apologies for off-topic interruption

Edited January 21, 2003 by Vanessa (log)

[=Mark]

what are your thoughts on whether a British pig could be smoked and pulled as effectively as a Virginia or NC pig?  The concept is relatively straightforward, I wonder if the pig breeding is sufficiently similar to make a similar result?

Paul

I'm not familiar with the state of commercial pork production in the UK, but I suspect that there is a similar trend. Pointing to the US marketing strategy for pory "The Other White Meat" there is a tendancy to breed out as much normal marbling and fat as possible. As good as this looks on the nutritional breakout, the effects on flavor and texture are not insignificant. It means that due to lesser percentages of fat that there will be a corresponding loss of flavor. Also, the longer cooking times of BBQ will result in a tougher cut of meat. This is why those who regularly check labels on their food have noticed the spreading practice of injecting pork cuts with flavored brines. As in other meat products you are now paying for up to 12% salt water as opposed to meat.

I attend a BBQ every summer down in the tidewater of Virginia hosted by a farmer named Dan Gill. He raises cattle and corn as well as sundry other animals, and is a true jack of all trades and master of a damn lot of them. He has dabbled in smoking and curing as well as brewing and distilling of adult beverages.

He keeps a stock of standard, pre-leaned hogs, porcine equivalents of mid 70's muscle cars.

He has his own smokehouse in which he Cures and Smokes his own hams

And these are not the wimpy little hams you see at the supermarket!

These hams are smoked and cured for sometimes over a year. They are never cooked and are simply carved and served. Not a few folks were taken aback when told they were eating uncooked pork, but everyone went back for seconds, thirds or more! I have to tell you that cured pork was as flavorful and tender as any imported proscuitto I've ever had (They run a deli and convenience store too, and in fact had domestic and imported proscuitto to taste it against).

So, getting back to the main question I'd have to say you could most likely do the same type of smoked pork in the UK provided you could find hams, butts or picnics from the "heirloom" breed of pigs.

Oh, Dan doesn't just smoke hams, he also prepares just about every other aspect of the pigs such as bacon and sausage, and has been known to roast a few whole as "Rufus" here can attest...

Edited January 21, 2003 by =Mark (log)

[Damian]

I'm trying to think of a place where you can go and sample a decent "pulled pork" sandwich in central DC. The only place coming to mind is Rocklands in Glover Park (a neighborhood just North of Georgetown). Rocklands website

Actually, in looking at the menu, it seems that that they indeed have pork sandwiches, but only choppped and sliced, not "pulled." You might be able to call them in advance and request some pulled pork, they're pretty accomodating folks, generally. Very small eating area at the Glover Park location.

[=Mark]

It's just a tiny little space stuck in a strip mall off of Van Dorn St. in Alexandria, but Annettes BBQ Heaven does a fine pulled pork sandwich. Tell her "Hi" from my Bro, Rich Stevens. He did all the electrical work and installed much of the equipment such as the smokers, coolers and display cases...

[Stephen Jackson]

Excellent stuff.

Thanks chaps.

[Malawry]

Meanwhile I have been trying to figure out where you can purchase a Smithfield ham in the District. (Can't help you on the smuggling end...) I think your best shot may be Wagshal's in the West End. It's not centrally located but you could easily get there and back during a short cab ride. I wonder if Dean and Deluca carries hams? If so they'll charge you handsomely for them. They're in Georgetown, a little more central but you still may need a cab or some walking shoes to get you there and back.

[fimbul]

Meanwhile I have been trying to figure out where you can purchase a Smithfield ham in the District.

If you don't mind veering just a little out of the District (perhaps by Metro), I know I've seen Smithfield hams in Virginia, and recently too. I'm not sure exactly where I was, but I wasn't too far off the beaten path, likely in a Whole Foods or a Harris Teeter, if not a more run-of-the-mill supermarket -- many stores in my area have passable hams.

I know I saw Smithfield ham, though, because I was looking for some pre-cut slices of the stuff for myself. I was cooking a pork tenderloin stuffed with country ham and collards for my mother (served with creamy grits and some green beans) for her birthday, so I set out on a ham hunt.

Of course, all this leads to an image of somebody lugging a ham from Virginia into DC on the Metro. I suppose it'll be good practice for later smuggling efforts though.

Edited January 24, 2003 by fimbul (log)

[Stephen Jackson]

I've had practice in this field before - there was once an occasion where I carried a whole leg (bone-in) of cured ham across Florence as if I was cradling a sleeping child. A mere Virginia ham should cause me a good deal less backache.

I shall try all the delis and supermarkets I come across, and I will be venturing into Georgetown, because I simply have to see the 'Exorcist' steps.

[Damian]

Hadn't thought of Wagshal's, Malawry, good call. Did not realize there was one in the West End. The only one I know is out Massachusetts Avenue in Spring Valley just before Westmoreland Circle and the Maryland line. That one is my favorite deli in DC, and you're right, their "market" might have a Smithfileld ham or know how to get one. Maybe they'll even ship one to England (might take all of the fun out of the smuggling op however!).

[Malawry]

Sorry, that is where Wagshal's is. (Where Damian said.) Technically not "west end" at all although in my mind I sometimes confuse the areas. Thanks for the correction.