Drinks! 2014 (Part 1)

[FrogPrincesse]

I was in the mood for a nice, bracing, bitter nightcap last night, and my eye landed upon the Grand Street, which appears to hail from from the famous Death & Co.

The Grand Street

2 Oz Gin (Beefeater)

0.5 Oz Punt e Mes

0.25 Oz Cynar

0.25 Oz Maraschino

Stir, strain, up, grapefruit twist.

Hit the spot perfectly. Maybe a touch on the sweet side, but there is enough going on that this is not a problem. A nice bitter gin drink that unusually does not call up the image of a negroni. Very satisfying.

It looks like a close relative of the Amertinez that you may like too - 1 1/4 gin, 2/3 amaro (I tried the Cynar version), 2/3 oz sweet vermouth, 1/4 maraschino liqueur, and 2 dashes orange bitters.

[FrogPrincesse]

I discovered that El Dorado 12 is so god damn sweet on its own that it makes a great OF with just a few dashes of bitters. It's literally as sweet as if I had made it with a super-dry whisky and a half-dollar sized puddle of syrup at the bottom of the glass.

I need to try this. I bought El Dorado 12 for mixing in tiki drinks but I find it almost too smooth and sweet for that purpose, and prefer to use the 5 instead. Favorite use of the 12 so far has been the Hotel Room Temperature from beta cocktails.

[tanstaafl2]

Thanks for the notes. I'm excited for the Ransom whiskey, especially given your description of its mouthfeel and apparent maturity. I'll try it at a bar before I invest in a full bottle though.

Will be interested to hear your thoughts once you have tried it. I really like it but recognize every palate is different!

I tried a free sample at Astor Wines. Perhaps my palate was just tired that day, but I found it tasted very young, with bright and sharp malt flavors, albeit with the same wonderfully thick mouthfeel as Ransom's Old Tom. It wasn't as complicated, or as Irish-tasting, as I had hoped, and if the oats contributed any novel notes I didn't pick up on them. I'll have to do a more proper tasting soon to see whether it was just me or the poor tasting conditions (out of a plastic cup early on a Saturday afternoon). I'll have to see if Dead Rabbit, the bar nearest my office, carries it, though I think it might be insulting to order an American imitation of Irish whiskey at a bar that prides itself on its selection of authentic Irish.

I suppose it is hard to completely cover its youth, especially with that much unmalted barley in there, but I thought it was more mature overall than its actual age of 3 years.

As you note it has a really nice mouthfeel. I don't know that the oats stand out but was surmising they played a role in that mouthfeel the whiskey has at such a young age.

I like sharp malty barley notes when they are integrated well (at least I thought they worked well) so that was part of the appeal for me. I didn't think they were too excessive but you certainly can't miss them! I found some similarity to current single pot still whiskey but I agree it is different from any current Irish on the market now. Whether it tastes the way Irish might have 150 years ago would just be speculation on my part!

Will be interested to see what you think if you get to try it again under more "favorable" tasting conditions. Personally I hate little plastic tasting cups and routinely carry my own glass around with me when I know I am at an event where I might be trying whiskey!

Yeah, I know I am a snob but I have reached an age where I don't much care anymore!

[tanstaafl2]

I discovered that El Dorado 12 is so god damn sweet on its own that it makes a great OF with just a few dashes of bitters. It's literally as sweet as if I had made it with a super-dry whisky and a half-dollar sized puddle of syrup at the bottom of the glass.

I need to try this. I bought El Dorado 12 for mixing in tiki drinks but I find it almost too smooth and sweet for that purpose, and prefer to use the 5 instead. Favorite use of the 12 so far has been the Hotel Room Temperature from beta cocktails.

My favorite use of ED12 (and 15 and 21..) is in the glass all by its lonesome!

[FrogPrincesse]

I discovered that El Dorado 12 is so god damn sweet on its own that it makes a great OF with just a few dashes of bitters. It's literally as sweet as if I had made it with a super-dry whisky and a half-dollar sized puddle of syrup at the bottom of the glass.

I need to try this. I bought El Dorado 12 for mixing in tiki drinks but I find it almost too smooth and sweet for that purpose, and prefer to use the 5 instead. Favorite use of the 12 so far has been the Hotel Room Temperature from beta cocktails.

My favorite use of ED12 (and 15 and 21..) is in the glass all by its lonesome!

I hear you... That sounds like the perfect nightcap.

[tanstaafl2]

Tonight I assayed a bit of Gosling's old in the Imbibe! recipe for whiskey punch (p76). I modify the recipe to use more than half a lemon, plus lately I've been adding a teaspoon of raspberry syrup (since I have it) in lieu of fresh "seasonable fruit". The raspberry is quite subtle. Garnished with the two thin lemon slices called for, and a small sprig of mint.

Very nice. Lovely, even. Thing is, this is a rye punch, the 1/2 ounce rum is only there for flavoring. It's hardly obvious to me that there there is any rye in here at all. Though I'm pretty sure I measured out three ounces of McKenzie. When I use Appleton 12 for the rum, the rye flavor stands out more.

Either way, I'm not complaining, I like both rye and rum. This is an eminently efficacious punch. I just wish I had more McKenzie. Since my local store is out, I may be looking for another rye. My dealer tried to interest me in Angel's Envy, but from what I've read Angel's Envy is just overpriced generic Midwest Grain. Knob Creek, Rittenhouse, and Woodford are some of the other local options -- that I don't think are sourced from Midwest Grain. I'm not saying Midwest Grain is bad, I just don't want to pay a lot for it.

Angel's Envy is MGPI. But its time spent in Ferrand rum casks (which previously held Ferrand cognac as well) makes it very much different from the usual MGPI rye. It becomes a dessert cocktail in a glass with a delightful sweetness that is pretty unique for a whiskey that has only been finished and not had something else added to it.

I like McKenzie as well (it is also a finished whiskey, in this case aged in well seasoned casks and finished briefly in locally made sherry style wine casks) but it is a pretty delicate rye as well. You might look to the Willet 4yo higher proof rye bottlings of MGPI rye (if you can find them) for your punch if you want to to have some punch!

Did you use the Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum in this? I can see how that might bury another spirit. And the Goslings Black Seal with its heavy molasses component (like Cruzan Blackstrap) is likely to really dominate a drink. The Appleton, which is a bit whiskey like anyway, seems much more likely to play nice with a rye in a cocktail.

Knob Creek and Rittenhouse (and Wild Turkey) are all "low rye" ryes. Good but perhaps a little less rye "spice". I am pretty sure Woodford doesn't make a rye other than the Master's Collection ryes from a couple of years ago. Absolutely nothing wrong with MGPI rye for cocktails in my opinion. Bulleit or Redemption (Redemption also just released a somewhat spendy barrel proof 6yo MGPI rye) are both MGPI ryes but the over proof Willet MGPI rye, if they can be found, are usually mid/upper $30's (locally anyway) and quite useful for cocktails.

[tanstaafl2]

I discovered that El Dorado 12 is so god damn sweet on its own that it makes a great OF with just a few dashes of bitters. It's literally as sweet as if I had made it with a super-dry whisky and a half-dollar sized puddle of syrup at the bottom of the glass.

I need to try this. I bought El Dorado 12 for mixing in tiki drinks but I find it almost too smooth and sweet for that purpose, and prefer to use the 5 instead. Favorite use of the 12 so far has been the Hotel Room Temperature from beta cocktails.

My favorite use of ED12 (and 15 and 21..) is in the glass all by its lonesome!

I hear you... That sounds like the perfect nightcap.

For those curious to dig a little deeper into the DDL world (makers of El Dorado) you might enjoy the series of articles on K&L wines Spirits Journal by David Driscoll. He is in Guyana at this very moment and blogging from the front lines!

[Rafa]

I discovered that El Dorado 12 is so god damn sweet on its own that it makes a great OF with just a few dashes of bitters. It's literally as sweet as if I had made it with a super-dry whisky and a half-dollar sized puddle of syrup at the bottom of the glass.

I agree. I tried it neat recently and almost couldn't finish it. It was a shame; the sweetness masked a lot of the greath depth of flavor it brings to mixed drinks. ED15 is better for sipping, with the oak balancing some of the sweetness and all of the rich, tobacco-y flavor coming through.

PPX. With added Cynar.

EDIT

I hate to say it, Rafa, but the drink just isnt satisfying. I had to make another some one to fill the hole.

Is anything in life satisfying enough to fill the hole, Chris? We want more and always more, and then more of it. You might find some solace in the knowledge that I've updated the recipe to include more Cynar after feedback.

"Life is empty: enjoy Cynar!" -Italian ad campaign of the '50s («La vita è vuota,» dal don Drapiero)

[tanstaafl2]

I discovered that El Dorado 12 is so god damn sweet on its own that it makes a great OF with just a few dashes of bitters. It's literally as sweet as if I had made it with a super-dry whisky and a half-dollar sized puddle of syrup at the bottom of the glass.

I agree. I tried it neat recently and almost couldn't finish it. It was a shame; the sweetness masked a lot of the greath depth of flavor it brings to mixed drinks. ED15 is better for sipping, with the oak balancing some of the sweetness and all of the rich, tobacco-y flavor coming through.

Sometimes Rafa you just have to let the bitter side slip away and sharpen up that sweet tooth! ED12 is made just for those times.

Unless of course I have some Navarre Pineau des Charentes Vieux handy. Yum!

[Rafa]

For those curious to dig a little deeper into the DDL world (makers of El Dorado) you might enjoy the series of articles on K&L wines Spirits Journal by David Driscoll. He is in Guyana at this very moment and blogging from the front lines!

I've been reading this with great interest. I once met Shaun Caleb, DDL's master distiller, at a bar (Donna in Brooklyn) and talked the poor guy's ear off about how much I love his rums. I didn't want to impose so I stopped myself from asking about their stills but I'm glad the always chatty and inquisitive David Driscoll gets to ask all about them and report his findings.

Edited February 21, 2014 by Rafa (log)

[Czequershuus]

I was in the mood for a nice, bracing, bitter nightcap last night, and my eye landed upon the Grand Street, which appears to hail from from the famous Death & Co.

The Grand Street

2 Oz Gin (Beefeater)

0.5 Oz Punt e Mes

0.25 Oz Cynar

0.25 Oz Maraschino

Stir, strain, up, grapefruit twist.

Hit the spot perfectly. Maybe a touch on the sweet side, but there is enough going on that this is not a problem. A nice bitter gin drink that unusually does not call up the image of a negroni. Very satisfying.

It looks like a close relative of the Amertinez that you may like too - 1 1/4 gin, 2/3 amaro (I tried the Cynar version), 2/3 oz sweet vermouth, 1/4 maraschino liqueur, and 2 dashes orange bitters.

Interestingly this is also on my to try list, and I spotted it on the night I had the Grand Street. I went the Grand Street direction because something a little more spirit heavy suited my mood, but this is definitely on my list, with a note to try with multiple Amari

[Hassouni]

For those curious to dig a little deeper into the DDL world (makers of El Dorado) you might enjoy the series of articles on K&L wines Spirits Journal by David Driscoll. He is in Guyana at this very moment and blogging from the front lines!

I've been reading this with great interest. I once met Shaun Caleb, DDL's master distiller, at a bar (Donna in Brooklyn) and talked the poor guy's ear off about how much I love his rums. I didn't want to impose so I stopped myself from asking about their stills but I'm glad the always chatty and inquisitive David Driscoll gets to ask all about them and report his findings.

There's a line in the blog you linked to about the sweetness in the double-digit aged El Dorados coming from the evaporation of the angel's share. I call bullshit. In fact, the Swedish govt already did, as can be read about here: http://www.refinedvices.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=485&p=2515#p2515

ED12 was measured as having 45 grams of sugar per litre! And the 15, 31g/L. No wonder after all my malt whisky drinking ED tastes syrupy.

If anyone wants to get deep into this issue, check out Capn Jimbo's Rum Project forum (I post there under the same name, but be warned it's a heated topic), and if may quote myself,

"Re: "why is EL12 unacceptable now when not long ago you rated it so highly", etc, etc - the most recent Ralfy video (review 432 I believe, the Caol Ila re-review) mentions the fact that it's quite common for palates to change fairly fast if exposed to a lot of different spirits in a short amount of time.

[At first] I thought ED12 was great, though sweet, preferring the slightly dryer 15. But as I got into rum I found that kind of stuff a bit cloying, and then got into single malts. Going back to rum, something like ED12 is just way, way, way too sweet. For example, I made an old-fashioned cocktail with just ED12 and bitters. Zero sugar was required, and it was not lacking in sweetness.

My own bottle of ED12 is probably over 2 years old at this point, and in that time, my palate has DEFINITELY grown to appreciate dry spirits. 2+ years ago I was still learning to appreciate spirits neat, and the sugar probably didn't hurt."

Edited February 21, 2014 by Hassouni (log)

[JoNorvelleWalker]

Did you use the Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum in this? I can see how that might bury another spirit. And the Goslings Black Seal with its heavy molasses component (like Cruzan Blackstrap) is likely to really dominate a drink. The Appleton, which is a bit whiskey like anyway, seems much more likely to play nice with a rye in a cocktail.

Knob Creek and Rittenhouse (and Wild Turkey) are all "low rye" ryes. Good but perhaps a little less rye "spice". I am pretty sure Woodford doesn't make a rye other than the Master's Collection ryes from a couple of years ago. Absolutely nothing wrong with MGPI rye for cocktails in my opinion. Bulleit or Redemption (Redemption also just released a somewhat spendy barrel proof 6yo MGPI rye) are both MGPI ryes but the over proof Willet MGPI rye, if they can be found, are usually mid/upper $30's (locally anyway) and quite useful for cocktails.

Yes, Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum...just half an ounce.

Bulleit my store carries. Redemption and Willet I don't think I've seen.

[tanstaafl2]

Yes, Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum...just half an ounce.

Bulleit my store carries. Redemption and Willet I don't think I've seen.

Willet Family Estate bottles in almost all forms is seems to be getting a bit scarce of late. Bulleit is perfectly adequate in cocktails to me. Could wish for a bit more proof but what can you do?

What do you think of the Gosling's Old Rum on its own? Been awhile since I had it and was contemplating getting a bottle of my own. They tend to be a bit scarce and you have to buy when the opportunity presents itself!

[tanstaafl2]

There's a line in the blog you linked to about the sweetness in the double-digit aged El Dorados coming from the evaporation of the angel's share. I call bullshit. In fact, the Swedish govt already did, as can be read about here: http://www.refinedvices.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=485&p=2515#p2515

ED12 was measured as having 45 grams of sugar per litre! And the 15, 31g/L. No wonder after all my malt whisky drinking ED tastes syrupy.

If anyone wants to get deep into this issue, check out Capn Jimbo's Rum Project forum (I post there under the same name, but be warned it's a heated topic), and if may quote myself,

I still hold out hope that the sugar content of El Dorado in general is more natural than added. I am not a distiller nor do I play one on TV. But it sounds like the unique variety of stills available at DDL can certainly allow one to make a base distillate full of esters that is very sweet and fruity in character if one so chooses, especially on the Savalle still. And all that heat and humidity seems likely to be capable of pulling every last ounce of sugar left in the barrels.

They are just too unique for some sort of magic not to happen! And besides, there hasn't been a spirit made yet that was "too sweet" for me, no matter what I have been drinking before!

[Hassouni]

Unsweetened rums are closer to whiskies than a lot of what's sold as rum. That blog says ED uses only ex-bourbon casks, and bourbon is a totally unaltered spirit. It's not like a sherry barrel which does transfer sugar over, for example.

[ChrisTaylor]

My first barrel-aged Negroni.

Four, five weeks ago I built an equal parts Negroni (Punt e Mes/Tanq + three kinds of orange bitters) in a jar with a product known as rum soakers. Essentially chips from a barrel.

It ... probably needs to be tasted side by side with a normal Negroni but it seems to have lost a certain sharp edge while retaining the bitterness. The difference is not huge. I will revisit the jar in another couple of weeks.

[tanstaafl2]

Unsweetened rums are closer to whiskies than a lot of what's sold as rum. That blog says ED uses only ex-bourbon casks, and bourbon is a totally unaltered spirit. It's not like a sherry barrel which does transfer sugar over, for example.

True enough. Clement single cask rhum is a good example of a spirit that could well confuse a drinker because of its very whiskey like profile and lack of alteration. But it doesn't taste completely sugar free even though it is very dry anymore than a good bourbon does and we know neither of those can have sugar added. I do wonder about those tests done in Europe and what types of sugar they test for. Some products come up with zero sugar and yet no matter how dry it may test I find it hard to believe a product aged in barrels has no sugar in it at all. Are they also testing for xylose, lactose, galactose, mannose, etc? Is there a link for those government reports on sugar content?

One of the purposes of putting anything in a barrel for aging is to pull the wood sugars out. The char used in bourbon barrels helps to pull the sugar forward and caramelize it a bit as I understand it. The high temperature of Caribbean means spirit may expand deeper into the wood and then return in cool of the evening. A high variation in temperature over time and even day by day can only help wring every bit of goodness from a barrel. Since El Dorado reconditions their barrels by stripping old char from used bourbon barrels and exposing fresh oak and fairly frequently reracks them I think they would get lots of opportunity to pull as much sugar in from the barrel as possible. I suspect this what is meant about the evaporation/"Angel's Share" comment. Water is evaporating from the barrel but most of the alcohol expands into the barrels and then returns to the distillate bringing lots of barrel influences, including sugar, back with it and then gets rather concentrated.

So I think there is a lot of natural sweetness developing in any barrel aged spirit. Does it also get an assist, maybe a big one, from the distiller to have such a high sugar content? Possibly so. But I choose to turn a blind eye!

From the Spirits Journal post:

Much to my surprise, there is absolutely no sherry maturation happening at DDL. All of their rum is aged in refill Bourbon casks that have been stripped and re-coopered to expose more of the fresh oak underneath the char. The sweetness is simply due to rapid maturation and evaporation under the extremely humid conditions. No barrel is used more than five times (for younger rums) or ten years for the older stuff. After a rum passes ten years in wood, it's racked into a new barrel.

[JoNorvelleWalker]

Yes, Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum...just half an ounce.

Bulleit my store carries. Redemption and Willet I don't think I've seen.

Willet Family Estate bottles in almost all forms is seems to be getting a bit scarce of late. Bulleit is perfectly adequate in cocktails to me. Could wish for a bit more proof but what can you do?

What do you think of the Gosling's Old Rum on its own? Been awhile since I had it and was contemplating getting a bottle of my own. They tend to be a bit scarce and you have to buy when the opportunity presents itself!

Well, I like it neat, but whether it is totally worth the asking price I cannot say. Not like anything else I have tried. I'm trying to taste as many interesting rums as I can find and/or afford. I want to try a mai tai with Appleton 12 and Gosling's Old. Then maybe try to locate some 15 year old Pusser's.

Tonight I started with a knickerbocker, Dave Wondrich's formulation. For the rum I used Busted Barrel and Cointreau for the curacoa. Very light and refreshing, thirst quenching even. But it's the middle of winter here. I followed up with my usual mai tai. Which is a little off, perhaps because to conserve ice I didn't empty the Baron from the knickerbocker, and I am using the same glass. But, hey, by the time I get to the bottom it probably won't matter much.

[ChrisTaylor]

23 Feb.

Daiquiri weather slowly draws to a close. Altho' I'm kidding if I say that'll stop me.

JM 50. A lime's worth^* of lime juice, a little over a half ounce of simple and two generous ounces of JM.

^* A unit of measurement that can refer to anything from 50mL liquid to 10mL musty pulpy goo

[Rafa]

Unsweetened rums are closer to whiskies than a lot of what's sold as rum. That blog says ED uses only ex-bourbon casks, and bourbon is a totally unaltered spirit. It's not like a sherry barrel which does transfer sugar over, for example.

True enough. Clement single cask rhum is a good example of a spirit that could well confuse a drinker because of its very whiskey like profile and lack of alteration. But it doesn't taste completely sugar free even though it is very dry anymore than a good bourbon does and we know neither of those can have sugar added. I do wonder about those tests done in Europe and what types of sugar they test for. Some products come up with zero sugar and yet no matter how dry it may test I find it hard to believe a product aged in barrels has no sugar in it at all. Are they also testing for xylose, lactose, galactose, mannose, etc? Is there a link for those government reports on sugar content?

One of the purposes of putting anything in a barrel for aging is to pull the wood sugars out. The char used in bourbon barrels helps to pull the sugar forward and caramelize it a bit as I understand it. The high temperature of Caribbean means spirit may expand deeper into the wood and then return in cool of the evening. A high variation in temperature over time and even day by day can only help wring every bit of goodness from a barrel. Since El Dorado reconditions their barrels by stripping old char from used bourbon barrels and exposing fresh oak and fairly frequently reracks them I think they would get lots of opportunity to pull as much sugar in from the barrel as possible. I suspect this what is meant about the evaporation/"Angel's Share" comment. Water is evaporating from the barrel but most of the alcohol expands into the barrels and then returns to the distillate bringing lots of barrel influences, including sugar, back with it and then gets rather concentrated.

So I think there is a lot of natural sweetness developing in any barrel aged spirit. Does it also get an assist, maybe a big one, from the distiller to have such a high sugar content? Possibly so. But I choose to turn a blind eye!

From the Spirits Journal post:

Much to my surprise, there is absolutely no sherry maturation happening at DDL. All of their rum is aged in refill Bourbon casks that have been stripped and re-coopered to expose more of the fresh oak underneath the char. The sweetness is simply due to rapid maturation and evaporation under the extremely humid conditions. No barrel is used more than five times (for younger rums) or ten years for the older stuff. After a rum passes ten years in wood, it's racked into a new barrel.

It's in Driscoll's professional interest to be credulous about producer claims, or at least to let them pass without challenge, especially when they're giving him wide access to their facilities and his choice of exclusive rums. The blog is upfront about its commitments and limits, and it's a useful resource as long as one reads it with skepticism when merited.

I'm not opposed to altered spirits in general, but I do wish producers would be upfront about it. In DDL's case and in ED12 in particular, I am disappointed that such a historic rum made from such a variety of unique and storied distilliates has some of its character masked by what appears to be added sugar. It seems unnecessary. Richard Seale of Foursquare Distillery, who has long been critical of unlabeled additives in rum, pointed out in a Facebook discussion that he finds his own unadulterated product to be plenty sweet on its own. When it comes to most rums I agree: the scents of molasses, brown sugar, vanilla, etc that characterize barrel-aged rums create a perception of sweetness and the caramelized sugars imparted by barrel aging round out that perception on the palate. And unsweetened whisk(e)ys remain popular worldwide, so it's not clear that rum producers have reason to fear that their products can't compete without added sugar.

[Rafa]

Speaking of rums: this Dead Rabbit cocktail, containing the minimally altered Smith & Cross and the clearly enriched Zacapa and Cruzan Blackstrap, is delicious, with a rounded rum flavor thick with hogo from the S&C and molasses from the Blackstrap, complemented with allspice, Bénédictine, and six healthy dashes of bitters.

[tanstaafl2]

Speaking of rums: this Dead Rabbit cocktail, containing the minimally altered Smith & Cross and the clearly enriched Zacapa and Cruzan Blackstrap, is delicious, with a rounded rum flavor thick with hogo from the S&C and molasses from the Blackstrap, complemented with allspice, Bénédictine, and six healthy dashes of bitters.

I certainly agree you have to read Spirits Journal with the recognition that it is advertising products as much as it is providing information.

Cruzan Blackstrap is a good example (Gosling Black seal is another) of where it can be beneficial to add additional components to the base spirit especially for use in certain cocktails. It just needs to be required to be labeled as such. Cruzan certainly won't tell you that it has lots of additional molasses extract added to it, preferring to let you think this how it came off the still with 2 years of aging.

[Hassouni]

I have to say, as for cocktails I feel it doesn't make nearly as much difference - as I said, ED12 makes a bangin' OF without any added sugar. However, I like sipping rum much as one might a nice single malt, and in this case, the unaltered ones win hands down.

[haresfur]

Speaking of rums: this Dead Rabbit cocktail, containing the minimally altered Smith & Cross and the clearly enriched Zacapa and Cruzan Blackstrap, is delicious, with a rounded rum flavor thick with hogo from the S&C and molasses from the Blackstrap, complemented with allspice, Bénédictine, and six healthy dashes of bitters.

Sure, a haresfur-related drink that contains mostly ingredients that I can't get my hands on. I could probably handle 1/4 oz of Cruzan Blackstrap though (not very fond of it in general and at that rate a bottle would last as long as my absinthe.