Dry aging pigeon

[mm84321]

Anyone have any experience? I'm running a few little experiments. Tried 12 hours, but it only seemed to affect a very small outer portion of the meat, which I thought tasted fantastic. Now I will try 48 hours, and cook it for dinner Monday night. I am simply salting the breasts, which I've kept on the bone, and letting them sit on a rack, uncovered, on the top shelf of the fridge I use specifically for meats/fish.

[KennethT]

I've looked to do this for a long time but never did it. I love how pigeon tastes in France, mostly because it is hung post slaughter, as opposed to US ones which are not. I was always told you shouldn't do it at home though, even though I never was able to get a proper reason as to why... I'm definitely very interested in your results!

[boudin noir]

I believe that when game birds are aged the are "hung" after having been gutted, in full plumage, untill the desired time has past. I don't beleive you would get the same result with just breasts.

[mm84321]

I know that is the norm for game birds. I have hung woodcocks and grouse for periods of 3-4 days. I am simply talking about domesticated pigeons, as in squab (perhaps I should have used that term in my original post). My thinking is that the flavor of these birds can be enhanced by a brief period of aging. I will cook one tomorrow and post my thoughts.

[mm84321]

Well, I made it for lunch. This after having salted the crowns and let them sit, uncovered, for 48 hours on the top shelf of the fridge. A few things I noticed: one, the skin did not brown as much as it usually does on these birds (they are corn fed, and so usually develop a brilliant golden coloration), though that is nothing a jus can't fix. Two, a thin layer of meat beneath the skin was discolored. I cooked the bird by first searing it quickly (seconds) on very high heat in duck fat then finished off in the oven. At first, I had thought It was overcooked, but I have done this with many other pigeons and never got such a exaggerated gradience. Then, I ate the meat, and despite the gray color, it did not taste overcooked. The meat was actually rather juicy, and noticeably firmer. There was an obvious enhancement of flavor, and the meat was seasoned perfectly throughout. I did add additional sea salt and fresh pepper after removing from the oven, as always. I took a few photos:

Any ideas on the gray coloration? Could it have been from the salt, or oxidation from being exposed to the air, or was it in fact the direct sear? Maybe next time a slower browning over a lower heat, or just straight into the oven? These pigeons can be tricky to get just right. I will get some more next week to try again.

[Martin Fisher]

I raised meat pigeons (mostly the white King breed) for many years.
They were aged basically the same as game birds, feathers on, 50 degrees for 3-5 days.

[rob1234]

I don't have many details so this probably won't help but Saison in San Francisco serves dry aged pigeon aged maybe 30-70 days. You can find pics on google.

[KennethT]

I think salting it for 48 hours was at least part if not all of your problem - depending on how much salt you added before aging, it is basically a cure. That would surely result in the firmer texture you experienced. I find salting even a couple hours in advance can cause a noticeably firmer texture.

Out of curiosity, why did you salt it prior to aging?

[mm84321]

I think salting it for 48 hours was at least part if not all of your problem - depending on how much salt you added before aging, it is basically a cure. That would surely result in the firmer texture you experienced. I find salting even a couple hours in advance can cause a noticeably firmer texture.

Out of curiosity, why did you salt it prior to aging?

I have gotten into the habit of salting poultry at least a day in advance. I usually keep chickens and the like salted, but covered, in the fridge a day before I know I will cook them. I suppose it wasn't necessary for this application, and I may try a period of aging without salting.

[KennethT]

I'm fascinated by this... can you go into a little more detail about how/why you got into that habit? Where did you learn it from? What is the purpose of doing it? Does it result in a better texture or flavor, or do you do it for other reasons?

[mm84321]

A writer for the LA Times had mentioned it on another forum I visit. I guess it is common practice at a lot of restaurants in California, Chez Panisse, in particular. I finally decided to try it and really fell in love. For chickens, I use a teaspoon of salt per pound. The meat is perfectly seasoned throughout, and the skin browns beautifully. The salt also has a hydrating effect on the proteins, which keeps the chicken extremely moist; I've never once had a chicken come out dry this way.

I think next week I will try aging the pigeon for a length of 2-3 days, uncovered, then the night before I cook them, salt and cover. I will also try one without having salted in advance to see the difference, but I really liked the texture of the meat on this previous bird. Will report back.

[Fernwood]

I think salting it for 48 hours was at least part if not all of your problem - depending on how much salt you added before aging, it is basically a cure. That would surely result in the firmer texture you experienced. I find salting even a couple hours in advance can cause a noticeably firmer texture.

Out of curiosity, why did you salt it prior to aging?

I have gotten into the habit of salting poultry at least a day in advance. I usually keep chickens and the like salted, but covered, in the fridge a day before I know I will cook them. I suppose it wasn't necessary for this application, and I may try a period of aging without salting.

I learned this from Judy Rodgers's The Zuni Café Cookbook. She has an excellent discussion under the heading "The Practice of Salting Early". I generally keep things wrapped so I don't call it dry-aging but early salting of all meat/poultry has become my standard practice, whenever possible. I do think it improves texture, juiciness and flavor. And the proteins keep better, if they should have to wait a couple of extra days before cooking.

[Edited to make Amazon link work.]

Edited August 29, 2013 by Fernwood (log)

[Baron d'Apcher]

Consider curing the squab with 2 parts sea salt and 1 part cane sugar (and whatever spices you like). I grind the mixture finely and apply a modest amount. Let them dry out in the fridge for 2 days. The sugar keeps the salt from hardening the skin too much and allows for better caramelization.

The same works well for duck.