Plan: Vegas Uncork'd 2012

[Shelby]

David,

I always look forward to reading this every year. You are a superb writer. You make me feel as if I'm sitting beside you the whole time. Thank you, as always, for doing this!

[janeer]

Thank you again, David, for another vicarious year at Uncork'd.

[David Ross]

Thank you all for the kind words--but our reports are not finished yet--we'll be ending with some thoughts on the state of the current restaurant scene in Las Vegas, (and the arrival of another Gordon Ramsay restaurant this Summer and the opening of Nobu this Fall).

One thing people always ask me is "how do you survive a week of such gluttony and copious amounts of wine and drink?" Well the answer is really quite simple and it takes basically two things, rest and water. I tend to only eat big breakfasts on days prior to the formal luncheons at Uncork'd. If I am dining at a mid-day event, I'll try to keep breakfast fairly light. After lunch, (which can start at 11:30 a.m. and include wine and champagne), I'll go back to my room and nap anywhere from one hour to three hours. I'm one of the fortunate souls who can nap for three hours without waking up feeling as though I got slugged by Manny Pacquiao. I wake-up feeling refreshed and ready for another round.

Now at dinner the level of drink is somewhat more intense--a four-course lunch may turn into a six course evening extravaganza starting with cocktails, two white wine varietals, a vintage red, or two, dessert wines and sometimes an after-dinner aperitif. Should you not have the stoic bearing of Dean Martin, simply have a few sips. If you are of the mettle of the Rat Pack, just know when to stop, then do as I do. Say your goodnights, shake the host's hand and gracefully return to your hotel. Keep a large glass of ice water on the bedside table and retire no later than 11:30 p.m. While "after-hours" parties are tempting in Las Vegas, I decline knowing that I've got more engagements the next day. I've seen poor fellows staggering home at 7 a.m. in Las Vegas just as I'm heading out on my early morning walk. It's really not a pretty sight.

[janeer]

Goodie, I look forward to the parating words.

Appreciate the "how I do it"--you are fortunate to be able to nap, and to have the discipline (sips?!). Still, I fell you must have youth on your side as well.

[David Ross]

Goodie, I look forward to the parating words.

Appreciate the "how I do it"--you are fortunate to be able to nap, and to have the discipline (sips?!). Still, I fell you must have youth on your side as well.

I don't have youth on my side, I'm 54. But I suppose with age comes reason, and reasonability, when it comes to these gustatory affairs, (yet sometimes I still question my own better judgement).

[David Ross]

Saturday, May 12, Dinner, "Surfside Clambake, Mandalay Bay-

In year’s past, the planners of Uncork’d have pulled out all the stops for the Saturday evening gala. In the early years, we were treated to sumptuous, multi-course, sit-down meals presented by the Chef’s. Everyone was dressed in their finest as we sat down with crystal goblets of vintage Champagne to tables decorated with towering cut-glass vases of exotic flowers. No doubt those feasts at Uncork’d were in part responsible for depleting a vast amount of the caviar resources of the Caspian Sea.

I used to say that if a bomb went off over the Las Vegas Strip on Saturday night at Uncork’d, nearly all of the world’s great Chefs, (including the Four French Masters-Ducasse, Savoy, Gagnaire and Savoy), would be lifted-up through the clouds into a dining room in the sky.

In recent years, a combination of the sluggish economy and the changing trends of tastes have caused Uncork’d to go with a more casual theme for the annual Saturday night event. I was so looking forward to the “Surfside Beach Clambake,” set on the beach at Mandalay Bay, (mind you, a “beach” planted along a “lake” with “waves” as only Las Vegas can build). The billing on the Uncork’d website tempted me with these words “alongside the waves of the Mandalay Bay Beach, guests will enjoy live music, cocktails, and fresh seafood. Chefs Charlie Palmer, Rick Moonen Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger will dish out their unique twist on this family-style American Classic as attendees pull up a seat at the long communal tables located under the stars.” I envisioned those long tables I see on the PBS program “Outstanding in the Field,” where the Chefs visit local farms and purvey fresh, seasonal ingredients. Guests are seated at a communal table, often set in a lazy peach orchard with the sun setting in the West, and feast on the bounty of what the farmers and craftsman have gathered that morning.

I’m a romantic when it comes to food, I can’t help it, and so I was anticipating that the “Surfside Clambake” would be my Las Vegas version of “Outstanding in the Field.” Certainly with Chefs Moonen, Milliken, Feniger and Palmer cooking for us this would be an evening that I would list in my diary as one of the most memorable from the six year history of Uncork’d.

There was no “long, communal table” at the Surfside Clambake. Round tables seating 10 were plotted on the sand, (making it incredibly difficult to walk on with a full plate in one hand, drink in the other). Across the “lake,” a band played hits from the 70’s and 80’s, (and as the evening and drink wore on, guests jumped into the water and sang along).

Looking toward the “lake” at Mandalay Bay-

I was expecting someone from Bon Appetit to come to the microphone and introduce the Chefs and the dishes we’d be tasting—yet no such introduction came, at least not that I noticed when the gates opened and we sat down.

I was also naïve in thinking that the Chef’s would present each course to the table in large serving bowls so that we could dine ala “family-style.” Alas, I was convicted to the line of another “buffet” and the crowded atmosphere of the “Grand Tasting,” as each Chef had their own station where we traipsed through, filling our plates. There were no printed menu cards, only descriptions of the dishes at each booth.

Chef Charlie Palmer has two restaurants within the Mandalay Bay complex-Charlie Trotter Steak and the famous Aureole. The most stunning display of the entire Clambake was this gigantic haunch of beef that Chef Palmer was slicing-

And a little piggy who had been marinated in the Cuban-Style with orange juice and oregano. (Unfortunately, piggy’s meat was better than his leathery skin offered as “crackling)-

Chef Palmer’s crew also presented a number of side dishes and sweets.

I sat next to a couple from Cincinnati. The gentleman was attending culinary school and his wife had given him tickets and a trip to Las Vegas to celebrate his birthday and his pending graduation. What a great gift for someone planning a career in cuisine. I didn’t let on how disappointed I was that the Chefs didn’t make an introduction, nor did they come to our table to introduce themselves as most Chefs do at Uncork’d events. But the aspiring Chef’s night was made whole when Chef Moonen doused the lobster on his plate with clarified butter. Of course you are well aware that Chef Moonen is the owner and Chef of RM Seafood and RM Café at Mandalay Place.

Now if you’ve followed our Uncork’d reports over the years, you’ll remember that Chef Moonen is no fan of this writer owing to an honest review that excoriated the service at his restaurant in 2010 when I was attending Uncork’d. (And jsmeeker can attest to the disaster that night as he was at the table). For the full review, click here.

I started through the line at Chef Moonen’s display, loading my plate with the fixin’s of a traditional New England Clambake—Corn on the Cob, Red Potatoes, Mussels, Steamed Clams, and Grilled Lobster—but I stopped short of a personal offering of butter from the Chef lest it bring to his mind the depressing review I had penned of his restaurant two years earlier. I made a quick turn-around and went back to my table in the sand. The grilled lobster was buttery and tender, the clams and mussels fresh, the corn and potatoes drowned, over-cooked and mushy. It was a passable dish with some individual elements that were quite good. And that is really what you'll find at any number of Las Vegas buffets. But the odds at the table turned in my favor when I went over to the Border Grill booth.

As always, whenever you meet them, whether it be at a large public gathering, a book signing or in one of their restaurants, the “Two Hot Tamales,” Chefs Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken shine with their vivacious personalities, broad smiles and enthusiasm for the flavors of Mexico they are so well-known for.

Chef Feniger and Milliken, Chef-Owners of the inimitable Border Grill at Mandalay Bay, cemented their popularity with the public through their food and appearances in the early days of cooking on commercial television. It would be years later when they re-appeared on television competing on “Top Chef” on Bravo that they would discover a new fan base. Yet behind the veil of the public eye, their success in the restaurant business and cookbook publishing has never waned--and their skills in crafting dishes with pronounced, spicy flavors are as clear and vibrant now as they were twenty years ago.

I asked Chef what type of fish they were using for the Fish Tacos. “We couldn’t get fresh Copper River Salmon because the season won’t open for another week, so we contacted our source in Oregon and discovered this beautiful Columbia River Chinook Spring Salmon.” My spirits were lifted. Imagine, a boy from the Northwest finding fresh Columbia River Salmon in Las Vegas. No other Salmon is so precious to those of us who live in the Northwest-no salmon as rich in oil, it’s belly laced with deliciously rich fat. To find this rare Salmon swathed in Pico de Gallo, sauced with Creamy Avocado Sauce and wrapped in a Grilled Corn Tortilla, (on the sands of a fake beach in Las Vegas no less), will forever be one of the most memorable dishes from my year’s at Vegas Uncork’d. That one moment in time made-up for the failures of the rest of the evening.

Aside from the spectacular Columbia River Salmon Tacos at the Border Grill booth, the Bombay Sapphire “Mix your own gin cocktail” stand was outstanding—Las Vegas’s version of an adult lemonade stand. The mass-market white wine on the tables was underwhelming to say the least.

One can’t resist associating the cost of a meal against the value of the food and the experience. Given the price of a ticket to the Surfside Clambake was $175.00, I left the beach to the sounds of the band playing “Good Vibrations,” but I didn’t feel the beat. Another evening event at Uncork’d had paled in comparison to the private lunches I had tasted with Chefs Puck, Mina and Vongerichten. I had that empty feeling you get when you come away from the table unsated, muttering to myself, “is that all we got?”

[David Ross]

Sunday, May 13, “Charlie’s Steak and Eggs Brunch," Aureole, Mandalay Bay-

As the sun rose over the desert on a clear, beautiful, Mother’s Day in Las Vegas, I had to shrug off my disappointment from the Clambake on Saturday night and hope that my return trip to Mandalay Bay for Mother’s Day Brunch, (the second event to be hosted by Chef Charlie Palmer), would be a success.

James Beard Award-Winning Chef Palmer followed the path of other noted New York City Chefs when he opened an outpost of his signature Aureole restaurant at Mandalay Bay in 1999. The stunning, Adam Tihany designed dining room, (which I describe as “Swedish Modern”), is recognized by the dramatic, four-story, glass wine “tower” that fronts the entrance to the restaurant. Wine “Angels” soar to the sky, (they are lifted by electronically controlled cables actually), to retrieve vintage bottles of Bordeaux. Aureole Las Vegas has consistently been recognized by Michelin and the Mobil Travel Guide not only for the cuisine but the wine program and pastry kitchen.

Aureole Las Vegas-

The iconic wine tower-

The tables were set with crystal vases of lilies and Spring pastel shades of purple, orange, yellow and red in celebration of Mother’s Day. (The one major complaint at our table was the quilted tablecloth that had such a rough texture you couldn’t leave a flute of champagne unattended lest it fall into Mother’s lap)-

Each seat was adorned with a cloth bag full of Lindt Swiss Chocolate Bars and Truffles-

Ryan Scott, “Bon Appetit Collection Chef,” co-hosted the event with Aureole’s French kitchen brigade-Executive Chef Vincent Pouessel, Pastry Chef Vincent Pilon and Sommerlier Christophe Tassan. Mr. Scott was the most visible of the Bon Appetit staff at Vegas Uncork’d. He is recognized by his appearance on “Top Chef” on Bravo, and is responsible for marketing the “Bon Appetit Collection” on QVC. (Prior to reading Mr. Scott’s bio listed in the Uncork’d program, I wasn’t aware Bon Appetit even sold cookware on QVC).

We were greeted by waiters holding silver trays with flutes of Mimosa’s and Santa Margherita Sparking Rose from Italy. Two wines were poured at the table, including a 2009, Iberian Remix Albarino, Central Coast, California, and a 2009, Limestone Pinot Noir, Russian River, California.

Brunch was set as a buffet, but this wasn’t the steam-tray, groaning counters of tepid food one finds at the casino buffets. Chefs manned each station and were sautéing the breakfast steaks a’la minute, slicing the salmon, whipping the creamy scrambled eggs and fussing over every last detail of each petits four and cupcake.

One glance at the menu and I sensed we were in for a delicious brunch-

Entrée-

-Iron Waffles with Bacon and Chives

-Rosemary Roasted Ham Croque-Monsieur

-Hand-Sliced, House-Smoked Salmon and American Caviar

-Corned-Beef Hash

-Maine Lobster and Tarragon Souffle

-Kobe A5 Grade “Minute” Steak

-Fresh Organic Eggs

Pastry-

-Assorted Mini Danish

-Croissants

-Lemon Raspberry Macaroon

-Chocolate Raspberry Linzer Cookie

-Orange Chocolate Tart with Chocolate Streusel

-Strawberry Religieuse

-Chocolate Religieuse

-Almond Cake with Strawberry Compote

-Hazelnut St. Honore

-Banana Cream Pie

-Assorted Bonbons

-Assorted Macaroons

-Assorted Mini Cupcakes

Smoked Salmon, Lobster Souffle and Croque-Monsieur-

The kitchen had obviously used the finest grade of fresh salmon available and it was top-notch—lush yet oily in texture with very subtle, briny, tangy notes. It must be an incredibly difficult task to craft a number of mini-souffles over the course of a three-hour brunch, yet continually bring them to the table hot, airy and uplifting. With a ham sandwich that has hot, gooey cheese and a crisp crust you have a “soufflé and sandwich” combination that only the French can present.

One minor issue arose when I approached the board with slices of housemade, cured-smoked salmon. The garnish of sliced lemon and large caper berries was cute, but I didn’t spy the “American Caviar,” that was listed on the menu card at the station. In fact, I think I was the only guest who noticed it was missing. When I asked one of the Sous Chefs where the caviar was, he was clearly embarrassed that someone forgot to put it out. Seconds later he returned from the kitchen with two small glass dishes placed on ice. The labels revealed the caviar was sourced in Idaho from farm-raised sturgeon. I was delighted to see that once again, (the fourth time it had happened during my time in Las Vegas), an ingredient from my native Pacific Northwest had made it’s way into a starring role in Las Vegas. After I urged the Chef to deliver on the promise on the menu, we would be blessed with enough black pearls of gold to feed the court of Csar Nicholas II.

This was one of the best preparations of Kobe beef that I’ve ever had in Las Vegas—thinly-sliced, (no more than ¼” thick), these little “breakfast” nuggets of supple meat were grilled “a’la minute” on a huge, cast iron flat-top akin to what one sees in Mongolian grills.

If you are a historian of cuisine, you’ll note that the “breakfast” steak was popular on menus and in homes in America throughout the early half of the 20^th century. Sadly, as the pace of society grew ever faster, the “breakfast” steak was replaced with fruit smoothies and energy bars. Who would turn away a waiter who comes to the table and asks if you “would like another steak Sir,” (served by the waiter in the cherished 1970’s “Continental” manner from a tray employing a knife and fork in one hand).

Applewood-Smoked Bacon, Breakfast Steak, Scrambled Eggs with American Caviar, House-Smoked Salmon-

The selection of Mini Cupcakes-

Hand-Crafted Chocolates, Truffles and Confections-

My plate of sweets including Macaroons (upper right), Coconut Cupcake (upper left), Almond Cake with Strawberry Compote (center), Mini Hazelnut “St. Honore” with Raspberry (lower left). And yes, dear friends, another delicious spoonful of Creamed Eggs, Smoked Salmon and Caviar-

What a wonderful way to spend Sunday in Las Vegas at my final, formal event of Vegas Uncork’d 2012. Only two things would have made “Charlie’s Steak and Eggs Brunch” absolutely perfect. First, I would have loved for my dear Mother, Janet Pink Ross, 88 years young, to have been sitting next to me in that grand dining room, sipping on champagne and tucking into Breakfast Steak and Eggs. (A dish that no doubt her Mother Edna Pink served in their home in Twin Falls, Idaho, circa 1938).

There was one other element that was conspicuously missing at Sunday morning’s “Brunch with Charlie Palmer.” Charlie Palmer. Either Chef Palmer had come down with some sort of infliction after carving that huge joint of beef on Saturday night at the Clambake, or, more realistically, he left town early, apparently not understanding nor caring that his physical presence at an Uncork’d event he was hosting was imperative—especially to guests that had paid dearly for a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to sup and sip in his presence.

Situations arise that can change plans, but it was inexcusable that there was no explanation as to why Chef Palmer wasn't present. The lack of the presence of the Host Chef demonstrated a lack of attention to the guests in the extreme and relegated the affair to a worthy yet unmemorable status. Another Uncork’d event that tempted, and came close, very close, yet didn’t ultimately deliver on a promise.

[janeer]

"One can’t resist associating the cost of a meal against the value of the food and the experience. Given the price of a ticket to the Surfside Clambake was $175.00, I left the beach to the sounds of the band playing “Good Vibrations,” but I didn’t feel the beat." That is a very nicely written line. And fits your description of the overall experience and venue. Never having been to Uncork'd, I cannot really judge, but it is beginning to sound like yet another thing that is "not what it used to be." It feels from reading this year that last year was significantly more satisfying?

BTW I had a decidedly mediocre meal at Border Grill in Santa Monica recently. Won't return.

[David Ross]

"One can’t resist associating the cost of a meal against the value of the food and the experience. Given the price of a ticket to the Surfside Clambake was $175.00, I left the beach to the sounds of the band playing “Good Vibrations,” but I didn’t feel the beat." That is a very nicely written line. And fits your description of the overall experience and venue. Never having been to Uncork'd, I cannot really judge, but it is beginning to sound like yet another thing that is "not what it used to be." It feels from reading this year that last year was significantly more satisfying?

BTW I had a decidedly mediocre meal at Border Grill in Santa Monica recently. Won't return.

I would say that at the 6-year mark, Uncork'd is showing its age and I would agree that this year's experience was less-satisfying overall than in year's past. I wouldn't say it was "significantly" less-satisfying, but I'm left with the sense that what was once a grand event has faded. I'll be adding some more thoughts on what I think Bon Appetit could do to revitalize Uncork'd and continue to make it an annual event that is relevant.

[David Ross]

Sunday, May 13, Dinner, J and J Szechuan-

On Sunday evening I went off-Strip to Asiatown for dinner with some local friends. Taking time to dine like the locals in Las Vegas has become a relaxing Sunday evening, post-Uncork'd tradition. While the Strip restaurants in Las Vegas suffered through the toughest years of the economic downturn, (and many closed their doors forever), the Asian restaurant community has seemingly boomed, providing local residents with an exceptional range of dining options.

I asked my friend, John Curtas, co-author of "Eating Las Vegas, The 50 Essential Restaurants," and the man who writes the inimitable blog, "Eating Las Vegas.com" why there was such a large Asian community in the middle of the desert. He said that it goes back nearly 20 years to when some of the larger Asian restaurants in Southern California started opening outposts in Las Vegas. As the boom in building in Las Vegas grew, more people moved to Las Vegas for the thousands of jobs that the mega-resorts were offering. It only would be natural that the Asian community would bring their traditions and cuisine with them as they migrated to Las Vegas. When the boom went bust, (and hasn't yet recovered), a large part of the community turned from working for large hotel corporations to opening small Mom and Pop restaurants.

J an J Szechuan was probably a Dairy Queen or a small appliance repair shop in a former life. Set in a non-descript cement block shopping mall, the menu and dishes are anything but pedestrian. If you like chilies and heat, lots of heat, this is the place for you.

A selection of items on the menu-

Roasted Chilies-

Listed simply as "White Fish" and looking quite bland, this dish of tender chunks of fish was hot, hot hot-

The tongue-numbing, Szechuan Peppercorn Lamb Ribs, with just a few dried red chilies added as a garnish-

It would take six large glasses of ice water and 3 bowls of steamed rice before I could temper the heat on my palate. After a twenty

minute rest, I was ready to take on more of the intense "White Fish."

Most of the Asian restaurants in Las Vegas converge along a swatch of blocks on Spring Mountain Road located just West of the Strip. It's a short drive or cab ride, and the local bus system makes it an easy trip for Tourists. One can reasonably dine at any Asian restaurant off-Strip for a fraction of the cost you would pay in a large hotel Cantonese restaurant catering to less authentic tastes. The entrees at J and J are in the $9-$12 dollar range. You'll pay nearly double that for an appetizer at a high-end Asian restaurant on the Strip. It's well worth the short trip.

[David Ross]

The Ramsay Effect-

Without a doubt, the biggest food and restaurant news to hit Las Vegas this year occurred the week of Vegas Uncork’d with the arrival of Gordon Ramsay. The influence of the Public Relations effort to promote Chef Ramsay and the grand opening of “Gordon Ramsay Steak” at Paris Hotel on Friday night couldn’t be ignored. The media impetus behind Ramsay’s arrival in Las Vegas operated like a well-oiled machine and in many ways over-shadowed the 2012 edition of Uncork’d.

Some of the world’s greatest Chefs were in town, so it was a “gotcha” moment for Ramsay to land in Las Vegas and trump everyone at the city's biggest annual culinary event. With so many members of the fawning food media in town to report on Uncork’d, Ramsay and his cadre of assistants had unlimited press opportunites at their disposal. The producers at Fox must have been dancing in their cubicles at the headquarters in New York knowing they got all sorts of free press for the debut episode of "Hell's Kitchen" on June 4--and if that isn't enough to send you reeling, the winner of "Hell's Kitchen" will be named to a Chef post at Gordon Ramsay Steak in Las Vegas no less. It's a marketing perfecta like no other.

To their credit, the executives at Caesar’s, (which owns the Paris Hotel property), bet on a sure-thing when they signed a contract with Gordon Ramsay to open two restaurants this year. Las Vegas has been starved recently for a restaurant with the celebrity appeal of Gordon Ramsay and he has the chops and experience to open a restaurant on the level of the finest steakhouses in town and make it an instant financial success.

America's penchant for the "British Invasion" isn't forgotten by Chef Ramsay. Our fascination with all-things British continues one-year after the wedding of William and Kate, and this summer we’ll be singing “God Save the Queen” in celebration of Queen Elizabeth’s 60-year reign while we watch the London Olympics. The closing ceremonies will still be on our minds as Chef Ramsay opens his “gastro-pub” at Caesar’s Palace this Fall, (in the former Bradley Ogden space).

As I mentioned earlier on these pages, I passed on an invitation to attend a private press conference with Chef Ramsay on Friday afternoon since I was already obligated to the lunch at Michael Mina. I don’t regret the decision, but I'm intrigued by Gordon Ramsay Steak and I’m anxious to dine there. I did try to get in on Friday night after the Grand Tasting, but I knew my chances at a table were slim on opening night. When I approached the entrance podium at 10:30 p.m., I overheard the Hostess tell guests that they were still full and tables were booked as late as midnight. They didn't even have a seat for one at the bar.

There are a few English accents on the menu at Gordon Ramsay Steak like British Ale Onion Soup, Beef Wellington and Sticky Toffee Pudding. But the key to success at any steakhouse in Las Vegas is ultimately the beef, regardless of one’s attachment to the British Empire. Only time will tell if the prime beef displayed on a chrome and mirror contraption will capture the hearts and appetites of the public.

A telling picture of the impact of Gordon Ramsay’s arrival in Las Vegas was noted earlier in the evening at the Grand Tasting as I approached the throng of press and fans crowding around the most-recognized Chef today. The crew at Chef Ramsay’s booth was offering items off the new menu and they couldn’t keep up with the demand. Rao’s booth was just to the right and I saw Chef and Owner Frank Pellegrino Jr., prepping food. Nobody noticed, nobody asked for his autograph. To the right, Chef Guy Savoy offering tastes of his signature Artichoke Soup with Black Truffle Brioche. Nobody was taking a sample, no one gushing for a photograph or asking for the Chef to autograph their cocktail napkin. A noted New York Restaurateur and a Michelin-Star French Chef, quietly standing to the side in obscurity, forgotten for just a moment in time. That’s when I realized the impact Gordon Ramsay could have on Las Vegas. If not for the Beef Wellington, at least for the marketing of his brand.

[jsmeeker]

That artichoke soup from Guy Savoy was yummy. If no one was there sampling it, I would have parked myself there all night knocking back "shot" after "shot". And with Chef Savoy there at the booth? Even better.

I'll be back in Las Vegas in a few weeks. No plans to hit Ramsey's steak place quite yet. I have an odd feeling about steak places in Vegas. In general, I try to avoid them. But I realize they are very popular with my friends. So, when we DO go, I try to select one that is interesting. Maybe Ramsey's place will qualify. I'm sure I'll eventually get there on one of my trips to Sin City.

[David Ross]

That artichoke soup from Guy Savoy was yummy. If no one was there sampling it, I would have parked myself there all night knocking back "shot" after "shot". And with Chef Savoy there at the booth? Even better.

I'll be back in Las Vegas in a few weeks. No plans to hit Ramsey's steak place quite yet. I have an odd feeling about steak places in Vegas. In general, I try to avoid them. But I realize they are very popular with my friends. So, when we DO go, I try to select one that is interesting. Maybe Ramsey's place will qualify. I'm sure I'll eventually get there on one of my trips to Sin City.

I'm with you regarding Steakhouses in Las Vegas. The best menu items at any of these places is always the appetizers, which is somewhat telling. The beef at each place really isn't all that different other than a few subtle nuances most people don't even taste. The prices of the steaks on Ramsay's menu are in line with the better houses in town with steaks now reaching into the $50 plus range. I'll go there next time I'm in town, hopefully by the time Ramsay's pub at Caesar's is open.

[jsmeeker]

You are right. Lots of good beef to be had. But it's pretty much all on the same level (there are some exceptions like that really well dry aged stuff they have at Carnevino) Of course, I love really good beef. And so do my friends. So, I try to find a steak house that puts some effort and thought into the appetizers and sides.

[David Ross]

Coming Attractions-

With few exceptions, the past five years have proven to be a desert wasteland for the opening of new restaurants on the Las Vegas Strip. Yet I have a sense that 2012 is going to be a turning point for the opening of new dining rooms featuring some names we never thought would land out West on the Strip of road that offers arguably the greatest array of fabulous restaurants in America.

As I mentioned earlier, Gordon Ramsay is set to open a Gastro-Pub in the former Bradley Ogden space at Caesar’s later this Fall. (Sadly, Bradley Ogden, a once-beloved, American restaurant had seen better days and is being replaced with a more contemporary restaurant. Such is the fate of once-bright stars in Las Vegas whose talent no longer shines).

At a press conference held during Uncork’d, (yet not related to the official events), Chef Nobu Matsuhisa announced updates on the opening of his 180-room exclusive hotel tower and restaurant opening at Caesar’s Palace this Fall. (Another marketing coup for the Management and Public Relations Departments at Caesar’s). Nobu has reportedly said that his new venture at Caesar’s will have no impact on his signature restaurant at the Hard Rock Hotel in Las Vegas.

Gossip headlines are daily features on the local blogs and entertainment pages of the Las Vegas Review-Journal, but when Chef David Chang is in town, it hits the front page and is blasted in all forms of media.

Now just because a recognized New York City Chef is seen in Las Vegas having drinks at a bar in a New York-influenced hotel named “The Cosmopolitan,” doesn’t mean that he’s in town to sign a business deal. But celebrity sightings in Las Vegas stoke the fuels of rumor and so it’s being bandied around town that Chef Chang is close to signing a deal to open a Las Vegas branch of his incredibly successful New York restaurant Momofuku Ko. As to what version of the Momofuku empire would actually open in Las Vegas, if ever, is left to speculation, but it would make perfect sense. The primary demographic that stays at The Cosmopolitan and dines in the hotel’s restaurants is exactly the customer that dines at David Chang’s New York restaurants, and the vibe of a Chang room fits in with the personality of the other Chefs and restaurants on the property.

Looking further down the road map, Caesar’s is planning a $550 million dollar shopping and entertainment complex across Las Vegas Boulevard from Caesar’s on the former site of O’Sheas. There will surely be a number of dining venues and we’ll hope that something new will be brought to the table.

Ramsay, Nobu and Chang are heavy-hitters today. It only stands to reason that they wouldn’t be gambling with their reputations or their money if they didn’t have evidence that opening restaurants in Las Vegas was pretty close to a sure bet. Las Vegas hasn’t seen this much positive culinary news in years and it’s a welcome sign that better days are just ahead.

[C Simril]

That "marinated butterfish with black pepper, citron and tarragon vinaigrette" sounds like why I go to restaurants.And espellete pepper, to bring out your Inner Basque. My memory of trudging through the sand with paper plate full of food and a beverage at last year's Uncork'd at Mandalay Bay resurfaced upon reading of your adventures. Sand is for well slept eyes, not culinary events. In my experience, Korean cuisine knows what to do with beansprouts as well as the French know what to do with sauces. Beef and garlic is another made in Korea marriage. Korean grilled meat places were ubiquitous when I lived in Japan, and probably still are, but the beef you get in Japan, at least in those days, was so much better than is available outside of Japan that it seems like a different animal. Maybe one invented by Monsanto. I have vile memories of eating Breakfast Steaks when my family abandoned vegetarianism after the Cuban Missile Crisis. The one off-strip restaurant I want to go to when I'm next in Vegas is Forte. Bulgarian tapas? Sounds like the plot of a James Bond adventure. All I know of Wolfgang Puck is his frozen pizzas. When my daughter and I would visit my parents in LA in the 90s, their freezer was inevitably full of them. But not for long. Congratulations on eating that beet. If I didn't love beets, my long dead Ukranian grandparents would rise up from the grave to beat me up.

[David Ross]

The Legacy and future of Vegas Uncork’d-

I’ve been home from Uncork’d for nearly a week now, having taken time to settle back into what I call my “normal life” in Spokane, far-removed from the neon and glitz of Las Vegas. But I found myself faced with the most difficult report yet—sharing my thoughts on Vegas Uncork’d 2012 and passing judgement on an event that I’ve attended for six years—a gathering that has made a personal impact on so many people compassionate about food and cooking. Vegas Uncork'd has in many ways made a positive contribution to the city of Las Vegas and all those who work in the culinary field. So I think a reflection on the past is appropriate so we can look toward the future in terms of where I think Uncork’d can improve to stay viable.

As one scrolls though the list of memorable events from the past, it brings us to the discussion of the state of affairs today. I have many fond memories of events, new friends, learning experiences and dishes from my travels to Vegas Uncork'd the first week of May each year-

2008-

-A private tour of the catering operations at the Wynn hotel in 2008, including the massive wine vaults holding bottles worth millions, the pastry kitchens and the saltwater tanks holding fresh fish flown in from the Mediterranean exclusively for Chef Paul Bartolotta.

-The hand-crafted Ginger Ale and “Crispy Maine Lobster Tempura” From Chef Martin Heirling at Sensi at Bellagio. (A Chef whose presence in Las Vegas is missed today).

-The “Crayfish Fricassee with Oregon Morels,” at a lunch with Chef Daniel Boulud at the Wynn—(Another Chef Las Vegas so dearly misses).

-My first occasion to meet Alan Richman (at a book-signing of well-known Food Writers and Cookbook Authors), who to this day is a close personal friend and mentor.

2009-

-A performance by “Cirque du Soleil’s Ka” at L’Atelier at MGM hosted by Chef Robuchon and having Chef Robuchon personally sign my copy of his 1991 cookbook “Simply French.”

-“The French Connection” seminar discussing the influence of the French Chef on Las Vegas. An interactive discussion with Food Writers and Chefs including-

-Chef Daniel Boulud

-Chef Guy Savoy

-Frank Savoy, Manager, Guy Savoy, (now working in New York)

-Chef Francois Payard,

-Chef Alain Ducasse

-Chef David Werly, Le Cirque,

-Barbara Fairchild, Editor-In-Chief, Bon Appetit Magazine

-Alan Richman, Food Journalist

-John Curtas, Food Journalist

-The “Sweet Classics Gone Contemporary” Pastry Class at the Tuscany Kitchen at Bellagio hosted by Pastry Chefs Sarah Kowsikowski, (now at the Trump Hotel in Chicago), and Chef Robin Swenson.

-The “Farm to Table” interactive discussion with Chefs and Food Writers.

-Chef Julian Serrano’s “Roasted Scallop, Green Asparagus, Hollandaise Mousseline and Confit of Leeks” dish served at the Grand Banquet on Saturday night.

2010-

-The “Chefs Table” with Alain Ducasse featuring dishes from his childhood home on a farm in Castel-Sarrazin in the Landes region of Aquitaine.

-The “All-Star Interactive Lunch” with the Chefs of The Wynn where we cooked that creamy Spring Risotto with Chef Alex Stratta.

-A 13-course brunch at the counter at L’Atelier hosted by Chef Robuchon, (who remembered me from the previous year).

2011-

-The intimate “Master Series Dinner” with Chef Francois Payard at Caesar’s and the chocolate “Palet d’Or.”

-The “Chef Showdown” cook-off between Chef Akira Back and Martin Heirling at the Tuscany Kitchen at Bellagio and their different treatments of a “secret ingredient”—Sea Scallops.

-Cooking pots of Shabu-Shabu at our tables during the “Culinary Revelations” series lunch at Jasmine at Bellagio.

-The “Culinary Conversations” interactive lunch with the three Authors of “Eating Las Vegas—the Top 50 Essential Restaurants,” Max Jacobson, Al Mancini and John Curtas.

I did a tally of the 2012 Uncork’d schedule and there were only two actual cooking classes this year-the “Too Hot Tamales Heating Up Live,” event with Border Grill Chefs Susan Feninger and Mary Sue Milliken and the “Master Pastry” workshop with Francois Payard. There were three seminars devoted to wines and cocktails this year. The decline in the number of actual cooking classes and seminars is apparent over the years.

I’ve always felt that interactive events and classes are synonymous with the actual demographic of the readers who subscribe to Bon Appetit and buy the latest issue off the newsstand-people who love to cook and have a passion for food. While I understand that a portion of that same demographic chooses to dine out more than cook at home, the fundamental focus of the magazine still seems to me to be geared toward cooking and celebrating at home. Uncork’d has been and should be an event that focuses more on the passion of its readers.

The image of Bon Appetit turned dramatically in the past year when Mr. Rapoport took over as Editor-in-Chief. He’s brought a new, younger personality to the magazine and a contemporary interest in creating a relationship between food, travel, fashion, design and style. But style doesn’t always trump substance. A more difficult task is balancing the advertising revenue pages with the editorial content and pages devoted to food.

The layout of the images, illustrations and multiple typefaces on the “how-to-cook” pages in Bon Appetit is jumbled and hard to read. Trends in graphic design don’t necessarily translate into a clear picture of instruction for the reader--and that’s an appropriate association to make to the 2012 edition of Vegas Uncork’d—lots of style not always balanced with an equal, (or greater), amount of substance.

At the lunch at Michael Mina, a group from Pittsburgh told me they were disappointed at the Master Series dinner at guy Savoy on Thursday night. The signature service touches at Savoy were missing--no bread cart, no cheese cart, no champagne cart and no pastry cart. When you pay $295.00 per person to dine with Guy Savoy and his Michelin Stars, you expect the same level of service presented to regular customers of the restaurant. They told me they were left with the sense the staff just didn’t have any enthusiasm for the sixth year of a private dinner during Vegas Uncork’d. They sensed that it could have been a cost issue—why put on the full show and accoutrements when you can give an edited version at a lower cost? That seemed somewhat plausible given the fact the new “Inspiration” menu runs $348.00 per person at Savoy. I’ve had similar disturbing experiences at Guy Savoy during Uncork’d and I doubt it’s a cost vs. ingredient issue.

Like the disappearance of Charlie Palmer at his namesake brunch, the miscues and deletions in service at Guy Savoy in recent years are an indication that what is being put on the menu at Uncork’d isn’t always what they are serving you. Someone, anyone, needs to stand-up and start minding the store and giving the customers more attention.

I realize that culture isn’t stuck in a time-warp, Las Vegas certainly isn’t. To use an analogy to food, who would have thought 30 years ago that Crispy Pork Belly would now be a staple on the menus of so many American Bistros? As such, replacing a black-tie, sit-down, 13-course feast of foie gras, caviar, wood pigeon and prime rib with a “Food Truck Revolution,” (which was widely recognized as the most popular event at Vegas Uncork’d 2012), is totally appropriate to our tastes today and the popular culture trends of the largest demographic of Bon Appetit’s readers.

I was told by someone who knows these things that in the past year Bon Appetit made the decision to take complete control over Uncork’d, changing the scope of the previous relationship with the Las Vegas Convention and Visitor’s Authority, (LVCVA). The planning and management of Vegas Uncork’d was moved to the offices of Conde Nast in New York, (publishers of Bon Appetit), leaving the local professionals with experience in producing events in Las Vegas almost fully out of the mix.

In the past, the LVCVA worked with their local contacts at each of the hotels to draft contracts for the events, seminars, classes, Chefs and private lunches to be held at Uncork’d. With Conde Nast in New York controlling both advertising contracts for Bon Appetit and contracts for Vegas Uncork’d 2012, apparently local control was virtually lost. The association between advertising in the magazine in the same contract for events at Uncork'd may have had an unsuspecting, underlying result--some of the restaurants, Chefs and resorts may have chosen to opt out this year. This is purely speculation on my part, but the argument makes sense both from the business and promotional perspective of Bon Appetit, yet the other side of the aisle and the stance of the local restaurants to be able to participate in Uncork'd without being tied to an advertising buy.

Of course, the above arguments over the loss of local control and the inference that Bon Appetit autocratically-controlled the planning from New York is only conjecture on my part. But it begs the question as to why so many popular features of past Vegas Uncork’d events were missing in 2012, and if the changes in the planning and management of Uncork’d were the cause of any disruption to the schedule this year. I don't take sides in the issue, I only present the possible reasons why Uncork'd felt different this year. An event on this scale has to be one of balance and compromise so everyone benefits.

Let’s consider these points-

-Some top Chefs from the past were visibly absent this year, including Gagnaire, Robuchon and Collichio. Star-power is what drives this event and “foodies” as some call them, crave Stars.

-Noted Food Writers and Cookbook Authors, whose autograph-signing events were always popular in the past were absent this year.

-The Venetian, Palazzo, Wynn and Encore Chefs and restaurants had literally no involvement in Uncork’d this year, a sad commentary given the talent in their restaurants.

-The exclusion this year of three local Las Vegas Food Writers—John Curtas, Al Mancini and Max Jacobson, Authors of “Eating Las Vegas,” The Top 50 Essential Restaurants, the pre-eminent guide to dining in Las Vegas.

Reflections on my past experiences at Vegas Uncork’d provide a window into what I personally think made the events popular—and why they should be considered once again. And while the past can’t be forgotten, we have to infuse new, creative venues and events to keep our tastes contemporary. The Food Truck Revolution is just one example. An intimate workshop from the Chefs at e’ as to the techniques and elixirs they use to craft “modernist” dishes is yet another example of melding the past with the contemporary to energize Vegas Uncork’d.

Yes, change is hard. At times painfully so. But changes to an event that is at the six-year mark are what will revitalize Vegas Uncork’d and keep it viable for all parties involved. Change, yet a respect for tradition, is what drives the creativity of a Chef and it shouldn’t be lost on those who make the decisions regarding Vegas Uncork’d.

Vegas Uncorkd 2012 had many highlights and some moments I’d rather forget. Over the course of just three days, I attended private luncheons with Wolfgang Puck, Michael Mina and Marja and Jean-Georges Vongerichten—all incredible experiences I’ll never forget. I’m hopeful Vegas Uncork’d 2013 will also serve us a bounty of memorable tastes and exciting experiences.

[janeer]

Thank you, David, for your always thoughtful commentary. I suspect you are right about decisions Bon Apetit has made (admitting here my bias: never, ever a fan and when CN canceled Gourmet I was done with them forever). I regret not having made it to Uncork'd in prior years.. It sounds to me that the solution for next year is: don't go. Let CN/BonApetit know who their real clientele is and what they expect.

[David Ross]

This past week I traveled to Oregon to visit my Family. My Mother had clipped-out a piece that ran in the Oregonian on May 23, titled "Chefs Spreading the News," (you can link to the piece here).

As I started reading the piece it brought back memories of the early 1980's when my Father worked for the Oregon Department of Agriculture. Working with Oregon ranchers, farmers, vendors, producers, chefs and the early winemakers, the Agriculture Department travelled with a large contingent to New York to introduce Oregon's unlimited bounty of land and sea. And so I imagined that's what this piece in the newspaper was about.

But then I was suprised to read that the primary reason for Oregon's trip to New York this time was to introduce the upcoming "Feast" food event in Portland in September. (you can link to the Feast website here). Bon Appetit is sponsoring the first Portland "Feast," and according to Editor Adam Rapoport, (who we've discussed earlier in this report), "I don't think any city captures the ethos of what's going on in the food world better than Portland." I'm not so sure I totally agree with the statement that no other American city captures the ethos of what is happening in food and dining in America, but I'll cede the trend that Portland is one of America's most popular food cities today. (Albeit I'd like to see more focus in the restaurants on Oregon products rather than putting bacon on donuts).

I'm certainly in favor, joyous actually, that Portland is getting a food event on such a National scale. I'm a Native Oregonian and while I live in Washington, once Northwest born and raised, you never lose or forget your roots. But after reading the exciting news for Portland I started to reflect on Vegas Uncork'd and how it felt like this year's event fell-short. I looked back at the program from Vegas Uncork'd and Mr. Rapoport is quoted as saying "a weekend of incredible lunches, dinners, wine tastings and more fantastic events with the best Chefs and Sommeliers in the world and you've got reason to be downright ecstatic." If I were the Editor-in-Chief I'd probably say the same thing.

It's Mr. Rapoport's job to promote every event Bon Appetit sponsors. But I got to thinking, does "Feast" spell the end to "Vegas Uncork'd?" Maybe. Maybe not. Vegas Uncork'd is a totally different experience than what I expect Feast is going to be. Different cities with different food cultures. Some would argue Las Vegas doesn't have a food culture but it's an exciting dining destination. Others would tell you Portland has always had a food culture and is rediscovering it's culinary heritage. Yet if you read through the slate of events at Feast it overshadows the efforts at Vegas Uncork'd both in terms of the events and the roster of talented Chefs, (from both Oregon and throughout the Nation).

So it begs the question for those of us who have attended Uncork'd, (and those of us who have dined in both Portland and Las Vegas), do you think there's room on the plate for Bon Appetit to sponsor multiple food events throughout the country each year? Should Vegas Uncork'd cede it had a good six-year run and hand the reins to a more popular, in-the-moment food city like Portland? Is their room for everyone? I have a little birdie that keeps chirping in my ear that some of the lapses in the details and staging of this years Vegas Uncork'd may have taken a back seat because Bon Appetit was in the drivers seat focusing on going North to Portland. Will "Feast" eat "Vegas Uncork'd?"

[David Ross]

Local Las Vegas Food Writer Max Jacobson reported in his piece on Vegas Seven here that Vegas Uncork'd was "astounding." That's odd since I found the sixth year of Vegas Uncork'd somewhat like a bottle of leftover champagne--you bring the bottle out of the fridge the next day and pour a glass--its still got a few bubbles but its lost most of its effervesence and character.

Mr. Jacobson proclaimed that Chef Michel Richard "dazzled the minions with halibut with fresh peas and carrots" at the Master Series Dinner at Central on Thursday night. Apparently Max was served a different fish off a different boat. I was sitting at the next table, just steps away from where Max was holding court, and I was served a pitiful plate of halibut swabbed in a white wine sauce with not even a whisper of the promised lemongrass flavors. White fish on white plate, carrots and peas. Tiny fibers of micro-greens, the darling garnish of Las Vegas, would have at least rescued the dull composition. The plate composition was better-suited to a 1960's ad for Swanson TV dinners. I guess I was one of the "minions" in steerage class at Central that night because what we were served, (and the wine service that went with it), certainly wasn't "dazzling."

[janeer]

Feast seems very different in sensibility. As to your question as whether it will re place Uncork'd, it seems that they are distinct genres. The question for me is whether there can be anything special enough about it to merit the focus of Bon Apetit. That is, are the events and the food on offer in Portland any different than one could expect in some other areas that emphasize local, handmade food? Could this just as easily be in Seattle? Portland, ME? etc? Maybe BA would do best hosting a range of these around the country, rotating among various local food scenes.

[David Ross]

Feast seems very different in sensibility. As to your question as whether it will re place Uncork'd, it seems that they are distinct genres. The question for me is whether there can be anything special enough about it to merit the focus of Bon Apetit. That is, are the events and the food on offer in Portland any different than one could expect in some other areas that emphasize local, handmade food? Could this just as easily be in Seattle? Portland, ME? etc? Maybe BA would do best hosting a range of these around the country, rotating among various local food scenes.

I would agree--the style and personality of Feast is vastly different from Vegas Uncork'd. Las Vegas has a collection of world-class restaurants and Chefs, yet not much in terms of a local food culture. Combine the restaurants of Las Vegas with the atmosphere of an adult playground and it certainly makes sense to stage a food event on the Strip. No other city can offer such a limitless platter of entertainment and hotel options to travellers. That gives visibility to Bon Appetit from a food and lifestyle aspect.

Although Portland and Seattle are less than 250 miles apart, trust me when I say they both have unique food cultures. Right now, Portland seems to be the trendy sibling of Northwest food culture, driven in part by this food truck fad that's swept through the country. So in terms of visual appeal to a large part of Bon Appetit's demographic, Feast makes sense this year.

I think your statement that , "Maybe BA would do best hosting a range of these around the country, rotating among various local food scenes," probably makes the most sense. As we all know, trends in food, culture and dining change quickly these days and so to stay fresh and current, it would probably serve Bon Appetit well to rotate these events. But the local communities and attendees get very attached to these food gatherings and want to stage them annually. Unfortunately, as my experience at Uncork'd shows, as the event ages, the planning efforts and budget issues inevitably come into conflict with one another, souring the tastes of the guests.

[janeer]

Time will tell! I will say that I would not make a special trip to Feast. Too much like...lots of other places.

[David Ross]

Time will tell! I will say that I would not make a special trip to Feast. Too much like...lots of other places.

Well, without a doubt no other city can offer the full experience of Las Vegas during a culinary event.