Plan: Vegas Uncork'd 2012

[janeer]

And so it begins...We await.

[David Ross]

Tuesday, May 8, Lunch, Lobster ME, The Shops at Planet Hollywood-

What? You ate fast-food for lunch on your first day in Las Vegas? And you're attending a culinary event? Some would say that's sacrilegious, but today I broke the boundaries of that conventional thinking and ate lunch at what is billed as a fast-food joint, Lobster ME. Now let me just state right here and now that I'm no expert on either Lobster or Lobster Rolls. I hail from the Pacific Northwest and I can lay claim to being somewhat of a culinary expert when it comes to Salmon, Halibut and Dungeness Crabs, but I'm no expert on Lobster Rolls. I can report back that after today I am hooked on this quintessential New England sandwich.

Lobster ME opened in the past year in the Miracle Mile Shops at Planet Hollywood. They bill their Lobster Rolls as the "World's Best," a marketing ploy that no doubt could be tested by any number of our Members who hail from the New England states. They employ only cold-water lobster from the North Atlantic and serve it in any number of various lobster-from the Lobster and Waffles ($9.50) and the Lobster Benedict ($9.50) served at breakfast, to the "Lobsicle," (fried Lobster on a stick), Lobster Grilled Cheese, Lobster Mac'n Cheese and Lobster and Chips served later in the day. But their signature menu item is the Lobster Roll served in either a "large" or "extra-large" portion. The large Lobster Roll carries the meat of a 1 1/2 pounder and the extra-large a 2lb. Lobster. For $20.00, one gets a large Lobster Roll, very good, crispy fries and a drink. I think that's a reasonable price for a delicious roll with 1 1/2 pounds of meat, including claw, tail and body meat.

The roll is nestled in a buttered, toasted brioche roll split down the top lengthwise and then filled with lobster meat, mayonnaise, lemon and what they call "special spices." Those "spices" turned out to be dried oregano and were an after-thought better left on the shelf. A dusting of Old Bay would have been a better choice, but in all honesty, this delicious, buttery, tender, fresh Lobster didn't need anything other than it's natural, cold, salt-water beauty to proclaim a Northwesterner a fan of a New England classic.

No, I didn't try their frozen version of Lobster.

[David Ross]

Tuesday, May 8, Dinner, Le Cirque, Bellagio-

14 years ago, a New York institution arrived in Las Vegas--and they are still setting the standard today for service and cuisine in a manner that is unmatched in this city of culinary achievement.

[David Ross]

Tuesday, May 8, (cont'd.), Dinner, Le Cirque, Bellagio-

Sirio Maccioni made a very wise decision 14 years ago when he signed a contract to open Le Cirque at the Bellagio. In the years since, the restaurant has not only survived but flourished. In a city where a new restaurant can be forgotten just mere weeks after opening, 14 years in business, (especially at an elite, fine-dining level), is virtually unheard of. The beloved Alex at The Wynn shuttered its grand staircase and kitchen over a year ago, and last week Chef Pascal Sanchez announced he was leaving Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist to return to his French homeland. Yet while others fade away, Le Cirque endures.

On a Tuesday night in early May, the 25 tables at Le Cirque were booked. The room sets the tone for formality yet whimsy and pleasure abound. Similar to the décor of Le Cirque New York, the walls are adorned with playful circus-themed murals. The "circus tent" defines the center of the room, with a big-top composed of vivid-colored, billowing silk drapes anchored by a chandelier, cascading from the ceiling down to the dining room with dramatic flair.

The service at Le Cirque is attentive yet comfortable. As I watched the performance unfold, every guest was given the same, consistently gracious service—no customer was fawned over due to either their status or celebrity—a welcome sign in a city whose servers tend to apply perceived social standards upon their guests. One is addressed as “Sir” or “Madame,” yet the formality never steps over the line and becomes pandering. Waiters prance through the room with silver on linen-covered silver trays, quickly delivering your fish fork and meat knife. With the exception of only Robuchon, Le Cirque provides the best service in Las Vegas.

But Le Cirque doesn’t rest on its New York laurels. The restaurant recently named a new Executive Chef, and the menu is composed of both “Classics,” (dishes popular wtih regular customers), and “Seasonal Selections,” where the Chef is given the creative reins to craft recipes focused on today’s tastes. There is a respect for tradition, yet an understanding of how cuisine and creativity must evolve to stay relevant.

Chef Gregory Pugin was selected out of 20 very fortunate candidates as the new Chef at Le Cirque Las Vegas. I spoke to Ivo Angelov, the hospitable General Manager, about the process involved to name a new Chef at Le Cirque. One can only imagine that it is a daunting task for both the candidates and those who are given the responsibility of making the selection.

Mr. Angelov told me that 20 Chefs were selected to come to Las Vegas and cook in the Le Cirque kitchen. Each was charged with presenting a 6-course menu to a tasting panel of discriminating palates, including Management and Sommeliers. Chef Pugin, who hails from Tarbes in Southwest France, (and one who spent a good deal of time in some of New York’s finest establishments), was named to the post. And oh how he presents a world of unique flavors and stunning presentations.

I left myself in the hands of Mr. Angelov and Mr. William Moss, the head Sommelier at Le Cirque. My only request, ice with the bottled still water and a mix of both Le Cirque “Classics” and choices from the new “Spring Selections” menus.

I can only tempt you with the menu descriptions and a few comments on the dishes and wines. No photos accompany my report on Le Cirque, due in part to the low lighting in the dining room and also due to my fascination with the celebrations all around and my focus on the food.

Guests can choose from the ala carte menu, selecting an appetizer, main course and dessert for $98. Some selections, like Caviar, Wagyu Beef and Lobster carry supplemental charges. You may also opt for the Degustation Menu of 6-courses for $135 per person with either a Sommelier wine pairing at $68 or a Premium wine pairing at $88. I was presented with 8 courses accompanied by wines poured by the Sommelier.

Five breads were offered, including Sourdough, Baguette, Bacon-Onion and Pretzel. The butter is pressed into the Le Cirque logo, unsalted to the left, salted to the right.

My champagne cocktail arrived and was quickly followed by an Amuse Bouche of a delicate and herbaceous, cold Spring Sweet Pea Soup. And then the main performance began-

-Langoustines au Caviar

Citrus-Marinated New Zealand Langoustine, Osetra Caviar, Tapioca, Passion Fruit, Apple and Vodka Gelee-

The menu didn’t do ultimate justice to the dish as the Langoustine was layered on top of a tender nugget of Hamachi Yellowtail and the Caviar was crowned with thin little shavings of Gold Dust. (Gold Dust is used as a garnish on a number of dishes at Le Cirque).

Served with Ruinart Champagne, Blanc de Blanc, Reims

-Le King Crabe et Petits Pois a la Francaise

Alaskan King Crab, English Peas, Pea Shoots, Spring Onions-

The flavors of Chef Pugin’s dishes won’t shock you. They are not intended to do so in my opinion. Rather, the clean, slightly salty yet sweet taste, (a briny-butter flavor if you will), of King Crab from Alaska is so delicate, so delicious, you are grateful that the chef didn’t destroy it with some superfluous garnishes or trendy hot peppers. Less is often more with Chef Pugin's cuisine and you will be thankful for that.

Served with Puligny-Montrachet, Jean Chartron, Burgundy Region, 2009.

-Santa Barbara Sea Urchin “Ice Cream,” Ginger-Lemongrass Gelee, Fennel Puree

Served in a ceramic “Sea Urchin” shell resting on a bed of sea salt and pink peppercorns, this was the best dish of the evening—creamy, unctuous and silken, subtle yet defined, without the overpowering flavor that is characteristic of Sea Urchin.

Served with a Joseph Drouhin, Chablis, Burgundy Region, 2009

-Terrine de Foie Gras a la Fraise Poivree

Lillet-Marinated Foie Gras Terrine, Spiced Strawberry Gelee, Spring Basil, Arugula, Black Pepper Brioche-

I think the Chef was teasing me with this course. Merely two bites of foie gras terrine so smooth it melted on the palate, just two bites. I believe it was truly an attempt to lure me with the false hope of a whole crock of foie gras packed in a box for my walk home.

Served with Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz, Bott-Geyl, Alsace, 2007

-Traditional Seafood Bouillabaisse, Fennel Confit, Purple Vitelottes, Shelfish Fumet, Saffron Rouille

The dish was brought to the table covered with a china dome that was removed to reveal Clam, Squid, Lobster, Halibut and Scallop. An intricate lattice of Snow Pea and Sweet Carrot blanketed the Halibut, and the rich Shellfish Fumet, (actually more a Bisque than a Fumet), was poured into the bowl by the waiter.

Served with a Tavel Rose, Prieure de Montezargues, Rhone, 2010

-Degustation d’Agneau du Colorado

Colorado Lamb Trio, Rack, Shoulder Confit and Sweetbread, Carrot and Tumeric, Cumin Chickpea Puree, Couscous au Broccoli-

We travelled Southeast of France to North Africa and the Middle East for the meat course. A minor quibble in this dish was that the Lamb Sweetbread was apparently either forgotten or got lost under the tiny cap of a Sweet Red Pepper. But the stars of this dish weren’t the tender Lamb Rack, the braised Shoulder or the Sweetbread, it was the little domed ceramic claypot that held forth hot, soft Couscous au Broccoli. Finally, a Chef who made me like both Couscous and Broccoli.

Served with Pomerol, Chateau Rouget, Bordeaux, 2005

-Cheese Course

At this point I was overtaken with the wine and fabulous cuisine, so my note-taking tasks were no longer worthy. A small disk of pungent and tangy Sheep’s Milk cheese was shaved into a fan and accompanied with small dots of Balsamic reduction and Raisin Bread.

-Green Apple Degustation

Lemongrass Mousse, Caramelized Rice Crispies, Sorbet Muscat Beaumes de Venise-

Did I just say that the Sea Urchin was my favorite dish of the evening? Can I change my answer to the Green Apple dessert? One wonders how a Chef can evoke such a clean, intense, natural level of flavor from a simple Green Apple. And don’t think the dishes at Le Cirque are staid and dated. The Caramelized Rice Crispies added just a light touch of crunch and candy, sort of your Mom’s Rice Crispy Treats and Green Apple Soda served on the porch. Sort of.

Served with Sauternes, Le Tertre du Lys d’Or, Bordeaux, 2005

Mr. Angelov told me that many members of the staff, from the Sommeliers, to the Waiters and Servers, have been at Le Cirque Las Vegas for the full 14 years the restaurant has been in service. A remarkable record of consistency that is demonstrated in the service to the guests.

I’m told that Mr. Maccioni will be opening a Sirio restaurant in the Pierre Hotel in New York in the coming months. More wonderful service and delicious food to please his customers.

Handshakes and thank you's are related to the Staff, then you are sent home with a sweet taste of a memorable experience-

When I got back to my hotel room, I wrote down some thoughts in my food diary while in a wine-induced stupor. Then I tucked the notebook away and fell asleep. This morning I opened the diary and found these words, “Sometimes we dream of the perfect dining experience. Sometimes dreams come true…”

[David Ross]

Wednesday, May 9, Breakfast, The Wicked Spoon Buffet, The Cosmopolitan-

A local friend of mine who lives in Las Vegas once said that “Buffets are feeding troughs for tourists.” After years and years of trying every buffet in Las Vegas, I’ve come to the realization that my friend is right. The Wicked Spoon Buffet at The Cosmopolitan would be the offensive buffet that turned me into a believer of the feeding trough mentality.

You’ll remember from my report one year ago that the newly opened Wicked Spoon was turning the tables upside down on the original concept of the Las Vegas buffet. No longer would the customer find steam trays full of wilted potatoes and rubber chicken. At the Wicked Spoon, individual portions of Crispy Fried Chicken in little fry baskets were displayed next to paper cones of Frites. The kitchens were turning out dishes that hadn’t been seen before on a buffet—Bone Marrow, Vietnamese Banh Mi Buns and housemade Charcuterie. Apparently, the excitement of the opening a year ago has melted away and based on my experience this morning, the Wicked Spoon is no longer Wicked.

-Seafood, a standard-bearer at most of the top-flight buffets in Las Vegas was starkly missing from the counter at the Wicked Spoon. There were plates of good, house-cured Salmon Gravlax, but that was it. No Herring, no Smoked Whitefish, no Pate or Terrines, all common offerings for breakfast at the buffets at Wynn and Bellagio. There were about 5 different housemade Meats, but only 3 sad little cheeses. The bleu cheese was clumped into a bowl, apparently the same stuff they sprinkle on the limpid Caesar Salad.

-The bread truck must have missed its morning stop at The Cosmopolitan this morning, as the offerings were puny and embarrassing-white, sourdough, and marble rye, some biscuits and at the other end of the line, two types of croissants. You could stand next to the toaster while your white bread got browned. There was no butter, only a flavorless white spread with a menu card that said “whipped butter.” It wasn’t. About 45 minutes after opening, one of the cooks laid out some bagels. It would have been nice to have the bakery case full when the store opened.

-The Tacos El Pastor were good, as was the Pico de Gallo and Creamy Avocado Sauce. But the little bowl next door called “Irish Skillet,” was musty and off-putting. I doubt there’s an Irish Chef on Staff to make a traditional Irish Breakfast. The concoction was made-up of a base of Mushroom and Tomato Stew and oddball pieces of Zucchini. A decent Fried Egg was placed on top of the stew, but the whole mess was made worse by slices of bad Sausage.

-There were two types of Eggs Benedict on offer, both needing the blessing of a Benedictine Monk. As is common with Eggs Benedict on a buffet, these poor fellows sat in a separated pool of Hollandaise, the yolks having congealed long ago on top of English Muffins that had withered into mush.

-The little ceramic pots of warm, pure maple syrup that used to accompany the pancakes and waffles have been replaced by one big, ugly coffee carafe filled with cold syrup. The syrup is cold becase the top of the pot is missing.

-There were some very good dishes-Korean Fried Chicken Wings, Housemade Italian Sausage, Applewood-Smoked Bacon and the Gherkins that came out of a bottle.

-The two sweets I tasted , (both puddings in tiny plastic cups), were good, but I think the sweets truck got lost behind the bread truck on the way to the hotel. You could have literally put all the sweets on a small kitchen table—it was a fraction of the offerings you’ll find at most buffets.

I entered the Wicked Spoon at 8 am when it opened. I asked the waiter for Coffee and Ice Water. I got the Coffee, but got a glass and a bottle of still water, no ice. Details are the dearth of a restaurant if I’m in the house. The waiter apparently needed to go off shift and take a break at 8:15, 15 minutes after opening, and another waiter took over. He stopped by once, then also went on break. Or missing.

I have fully come to the realization of my friend, buffets really are a “feeding trough for tourists.” Sadly, my buffet days ended on a sour note. You would be better served to have a plated breakfast at the coffee shop at the Flamingo rather than the mush that is put out in steam trays across town. If you don’t need a big morning meal, coffee and pastry at any number of shops will serve you well.

[David Ross]

Wednesday, May 9, Dinner, Comme Ca, The Cosmopolitan-

Don’t imply from my review of the failings of the Wicked Spoon at The Cosmopolitan that I am not a fan of their other restaurants. As you’ll remember from my report last year, my experience at Jose Andres e’ was the highlight of my trip to Las Vegas in 2011. Now I can add Comme Ca to the list of unique and memorable dining venues in Las Vegas, one that on many similar, yet different levels, rivals my Tuesday dinner at the celebrated Le Cirque.

Comme Ca Las Vegas is the outpost of the Los Angeles flagship helmed by Chef David Meyers. The cuisine is best described as based in the traditions of French Bistro dishes with a focus on fresh, seasonal, American ingredients and a boldness to test the limits of flavor and the pairing of unusual ingredients. If the best results in a dish come from braising, pressing, then sautéing pork cheeks to crisp the skin, they will do it. If the best technique for the frozen fruit lollipops comes from the employment of liquid nitrogen, they do it.

This pattern of using unique ingredients in unique dishes not found at any other restaurant on the Las Vegas Strip is a hallmark of the food and beverage program at The Cosmoplitan. They’ve opened their guests palates to a whole new world of flavor and how we think about food and dining.

Chef Brian Howard mans the kitchen at Comme Ca. He arrived at Comme Ca after stops in Las Vegas working for Thomas Keller and Kerry Simon. The food tells us the art of the craftsmanship of a Chef, but Chef Howard’s bio one an insight into his creative process. “I get to work with like-minded talent who want to push the envelope” he says, and “We do not take applications, we accept commitments!”

Décor is not the high-point of the Comme Ca dining experience. It’s the view that counts in the physcial property of the restaurant and what a view it is, a panorama that is literally worth millions of dollars. The large dining room fronts the Las Vegas Strip with floor to ceiling windows. While the view is stunning at night, the din and noise of the room, (exacerbated by the slate floor), reaches a level where it’s nearly impossible to hear the Hostess ask if she can seat you, (and then apologize for the noise). It’s a sign that the raucous crowd is enjoying themselves, yet also a sign that your experience is going to suffer from noise distraction.

The Cosmopolitan is noted for its hand-crafted cocktail program at the bars and restaurants throughout the property. Like the food found throughout the hotel, (The Wicked Spoon Buffet withstanding), the focus is on creating unique cocktails not found at other properties.

I chose a cocktail off the “18A” menu, so named for the 18^th Amendment to the Constitution which prohibited the consumption of “intoxicating liquors.” Thank your lucky stars that the temperance movement has long passed into history and today one can sip on the “Thyme for Bourbon,” a fragrant, sweet elixir of bourbon, fruity crème de cassis, sugar, fresh lemon and thyme sprigs.

Now I know that many of our Members are intensely strict about not only their cocktails but the ice that goes into the glass. I’m far from an expert, but I have to say the large, 1” ice cubes used in the cocktails at Comme Ca make all the difference in both the temperature and texture of the drink.

Las Vegas is a town where people come to party and the party atmosphere is in full swing at Comme Ca. Tray upon tray is brought into the dining room by the waiters, holding forth plates of steaks and huge mounds of frites. The couple seated to my left were tucking into the Shellfish Tower, a massive, tiered display of chilled lobster, prawns, raw oysters, and clams, all washed down with at least two bottles of vintage Cristal.

I selected some dishes listed on the menu, then I let Chef Howard take the reins and serve some additional items listed on the regular menu and some dishes his team crafted in the moment.

-Chef Howard sent out a starter of “Fried Lobster with a Roasted Tomato Sauce,” (not on the menu). The lobster chunks had a thin, crispy, batter crust akin to Chinese-style fried prawns. A ribbon of smokey, roasted tomato sauce was painted on the plate, the acid from the tomato countering the richness of the lobster.

-Next up was an item from the menu, “Marinated Butterfish with Black Pepper, Citron and Tarragon in a Citrus Vinaigrette.” Butterfish is delicate with a texture and flavor like sea scallops. The fish was garnished with fried garlic chips and espellete pepper.

-Another off-menu item was served next, “Prosciutto, Bone Marrow and Preserved Strawberries, Au Jus, Basil.” Set on a black, stone slate, this is the type of dish where Chef Howard’s creativity shines—ingredients whose flavors stand alone, yet when married into an oddball relationship you wince and think, “can this work?” Think of salty ham, rich, buttery bone marrow and tart, yet sweet strawberry with the peppery, licorice flavor of basil. You taste, then you realize it does work.

-Another off-menu item created in the moment in the kichen, “Rosemary Skewer with Frozen Mozarella with Romesco Sauce.” Immediately after it is presented at the table, you dip the skewer of frozen yet soft cheese into the tangy romesco and tug it off the rosemary sprig in one bite, the cool textures melting in your mouth.

-From the menu listed as a Hors d’Oeuvres, (but a portion that is more than adequate to sustain a main dish), “Duck Confit, Melted Leeks, Blueberry Compote.” A hot, crispy-skinned duck leg and thigh nestled atop a creamy stew of leeks and blueberry compote served in a deep bowl. The Chef infuses the buttered leeks with some of the blueberry pickling liquid which enhances the play on sweet and sour, cutting through the rich, salted duck.

-From the menu, “Foie Gras Terrine, Country Ham Chutney, Marinated Strawberry, Miner’s Lettuce.” If your tastes are like mine, you love foie gras, you love country ham and you love a fresh, sweet strawberry—but have you had those ingredients together in one bite? You must. A log of silky-smooth foie gras terrine sits on a soft cracker and is accented with salty, chewy strips of country ham and a country ham reduction with compressed strawberries. Sweet, smokey and rich. And to send the dish into another world—a garnish of thin, crispy chips made from country ham fat. This is Kentucky ham cooking on a new level.

-Wednesday’s special at Comme Ca is billed as “Offal” day and so I selected an intricately-crafted dish that obviously had been crafted days in advance, “Pork Jowl and Tail.” Sounds simple doesn’t it? It wasn’t. The jowl of the pig was braised and served cut into a "steak." The tail meat was braised and then stuffed into a wonton-style wrapper and fried until crisp and golden. The belly of the pig had been slow-cooked, then cooled and sauteed in a hot pan to crisp the skin. The dish was garnished with spring peas, pea flowers and fava beans. A rich, dark, pork jus was liberally sauced around the plate with a garnish of crisp pork cracklings.

-Chef Howard brought out an in-the-moment dessert composed of four frozen fruit “lollipops” on sticks stabbed into a glass dish of coca nibs, (with instructions to pot them into your mouth immediately before they melted and lost their bursts of flavor).

-For the main dessert, I selected the “Lemon Tart with Lavendar, Marshmallow and Lemon Verbena Ice Cream.” This was obviously not the trendy “S’more” concoction one finds at some restaurants. The marshmallow had been taken to the torch, broiled gently on the outside to give it a burnished crust which married well with the tart lemon and cool, fragrant, herbal ice cream.

Chef Howard told me he and his Staff are given full creative control over the dishes they put on the menu at Comme Ca, (as opposed to other Strip hotel properties where some Chefs must subscribe, at least in part, to the direction of the hotel’s Food and Beverage Department).

Is Chef Brian Howard the best young Chef in America? One could argue the point, but he is most certainly, in my opinion, the best young Chef in Las Vegas.

[David Ross]

Thursday, May 10, Breakfast-

Coffee and Bran Muffin from the Hotel coffee shop. And a glass of Clamato, (that should have been enhanced by the bottle of Skyy Vodka that is chilling in the fridge).

[C Simril]

Finally, writing about food as good as eating it. Congrats, Mr. Ross. Indeed, they do know what to do with green apples at Le Cirque.

[David Ross]

I remember a dinner that C. Simril and I had at Twist by Pierre Gagnaire last year prior to the official Uncork'd events. This week both Le Cirque and Comme Ca, for differing reasons, far exceeded Twist in both cuisine and service.

[David Ross]

Thursday, May 10, "Spago's 20th Anniversary Lunch," Forum Shops at Caesar's-

The first official event of Vegas Uncork’d 2012, began with the “Spago 20^th Anniversary Lunch,” hosted by Chef Puck and Bon Appetit Editor Adam Rapoport.

Its been a busy week for Chef Puck, who won the James Beard Lifetime Achievement Award earlier in the week, cooked in Las Vegas for our Uncork’d lunch, then jetted to Los Angeles in the afternoon to cater dinner for George Clooney’s private affair for President Obama.

In some of our other discussions about the relevance of ground-breaking Chefs who have seen better days, we discussed whether or not Chef Puck's best days were behind him in terms of his cuisine and cooking skills. I didn’t agree then that Chef Puck's better days were behind him and I certainly don’t after lunch on Thursday. It was evident that Chef Puck was in the kitchen earlier in the morning and then checking on the crew throughout the lunch between meeting and greeting guests in the dining room. He personally selected the asparagus for the first course, the wines for the meal and led the team selection of both the hors d’ouevres and luncheon menu. Had you been at this lunch you would have realized that Chef Puck is still relevant, both as a businessman and a Chef, and continues to be one of the major driving forces influencing how we dine.

As I mentioned in my earlier post about Le Cirque, to survive 14 years in a city where a new restaurant can be forgotten just mere weeks after opening, 14 years is virtually unheard of. Spago has survived for 20 years and was the first wave of the “Celebrity Chef” driven restaurants to arrive in Las Vegas. There have only been two influential Executive Chefs at Spago Las Vegas, David Robins and Eric Klein, and many of the crew, including the Managers, Waiters and Servers, have been with Chef Puck the entire way, a remarkable achievement in a city that often puts trendy, chi-chi, in-the-moment popularity ahead of quality. Chef Puck said that the menu for lunch was inspired to be a “celebration of fresh, seasonal, simple, ingredients.” And that it was.

The Spago dining room is only opened for dinner, (the Café out front serves lunch), so our group had the entire restaurant reserved for lunch. We started with small bites passed by Waiters, including-

-Fire-Roasted Crispy Quail “Drumettes” with Orange Glaze

-Rock Shrimp Tempura

-Prime Beef Sliders

And this spicy mince of savory lamb-

Stir-Fried Lamb in Lettuce Cups with Chili Oil and Basil-

First Course-

Austrian White Asparagus Salad

Roasted Baby Beets, Cherry Tomatoes, Wild Watercress, Creamy Yuzu Vinaigrette

Served with a Hirtzberger, Gruner Veltliner “Axpoint” Smaragd, Wachau, Austria, 2009

The opening course was in recognition of Chef Puck’s Austrian heritage and the rite of Spring in Central Europe. Each Spring for a limited 6-week period, hearty stalks of white asparagus are harvested in the lush farmlands of Austria. The menu description that the dish was composed of “Austrian” asparagus was genuine—Chef Puck called his purveyor in Austria and the spears were shipped to Las Vegas specifically for our lunch. The white asparagus were quite large as asparagus spears go, yet incredibly tender and delicate. The flavor of the white asparagus isn’t as bold and doesn’t have the strong, earthy notes of its green cousin.

I should be congratulated for attempting to eat a beet. A roasted beet at that. I haven’t eaten a beet since I fought with my Mother at the dinner table over 40 years ago. But I tried these tender, sweet nuggets and actually found them quite placid and not at all the horrific, pickled red devils that Mother served. I just might eat a baby beet again.

Main Course-

Grilled French Sea Bass “Loup de Mer”

Shaved Fennel Salad, Red Onions, Heriloom Tomato Vinaigrette and Basil Oil

Served with a Williams-Selyem, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California, 2010

Typically the fishouses in Las Vegas serve you a portion no larger than a baby’s fist. Whole fish, if you can find them on a menu, will cost you a small fortune, so I was surprised that each guest was served a whole filet of fresh sea bass flown in from France. Simply dressed to give the mild fish a touch of moisture and a punch of basil, this dish best exemplified the theme of “simple, clean cooking.” The pinot noir lended flavors of spice and red berry notes we wouldn’t have tasted had we been served a more traditional white wine with the fish course.

Dessert-

Strawberries and Cream

Market Strawberries, Tahitian Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta, Aged Balsamic, Mint Syrup

A crunchy streusel rimmed the silky panna cotta, (a mousse really), with the sweet flavors of Spring coming from the fresh strawberries.

Chef Puck is undoubtedly an astute businessman, somewhat of a showman (as noted in his gregarious greetings of the guests), a celebrity and a cook. Yes, a cook.

Chef Eric Klein has been the Executive Chef at Spago Las Vegas for just over 4 years now. Chef Klein was born into food and cuisine, having been raised on a cattle farm in Alsace, France.

I took Chef Klein aside to ask him if he was still crafting some of the delicious charcuterie I remembered from my earlier visits to Spago. (If it isn’t offered on the menu, make a special request). Chef Klein remarked that earlier in the day Chef Puck arrived and immediately asked him what was in the walk-in. Chef Klein presented the boss with a fresh head-cheese that he had crafted earlier in the morning. He told me that Chef Puck’s eyes opened wide with delight at the sight of homemade sausage.

As I left Spago, full of thoughts of the memories this restaurant has evoked for its customers over 20 years in Las Vegas, I thanked Chef Klein for a delicious lunch and his personal reflections on Chef Puck. “It’s who we are,” he said. Indeed Chef, it is who you are and what Spago Las Vegas has always been to so many people.

[jsmeeker]

Great write-ups, David. Glad your experience at Comme Ca was a good one. I enjoyed mine last winter. Had a table along the windows with a very good strip view. No noise issues that night as the restaurant wasn't that crowded. Totally agree on the cocktails there. Very good. Just like they are at the other casino bars in the Cosmo. I think people who like the casino bars in Cosmo should be sure to head to Comme Ca, even if it's just for a drink.

[David Ross]

Great write-ups, David. Glad your experience at Comme Ca was a good one. I enjoyed mine last winter. Had a table along the windows with a very good strip view. No noise issues that night as the restaurant wasn't that crowded. Totally agree on the cocktails there. Very good. Just like they are at the other casino bars in the Cosmo. I think people who like the casino bars in Cosmo should be sure to head to Comme Ca, even if it's just for a drink.

I agree, they've got a very good cocktail program throughout the hotel.

[David Ross]

So a quick tally shows that I've had incredible meals at these restaurants so far-

Tuesday lunch, Lobster ME

Tuesday night, Le Cirque

Wednesday night, Comme Ca

Thursday lunch, Spago

Thursday night's dinner at Central at Caesar's Palace, part of the "Master Series Dinners," wouldn't live-up to my expectations. To coin a gambling phrase since we are in Las Vegas, "moving down the stretch, the trailer is........"

I'll be providing you a detailed report why Central failed to make the grade and suggesting areas of concern in order to turn a trailer into a winner.

[FrogPrincesse]

I love reading your notes, David. Thanks for your detailed reviews, it's fun following you around!

Comme Ça has been on my list of place to try- LA or the Las Vegas branch. Excellent cocktails with a cocktail menu designed by Sam Ross, and French bistro food, a perfect combo as far as I am concerned!

[janeer]

Tuesday, May 8-Lunch

What? You ate fast-food for lunch on your first day in Las Vegas? And you're attending a culinary event? Some would say that's sacrilegious, but today I broke the boundaries of that conventional thinking and ate lunch at what is billed as a fast-food joint, Lobster ME. Now let me just state right here and now that I'm no expert on either Lobster or Lobster Rolls. I hail from the Pacific Northwest and I can lay claim to being somewhat of a culinary expert when it comes to Salmon, Halibut and Dungeness Crabs, but I'm no expert on Lobster Rolls. But I can report back that after today I am hooked on this quintessential New England sandwich.

Lobster ME opened in the past year in the Miracle Mile Shops at Planet Hollywood. They bill their Lobster Rolls as the "World's Best," a marketing ploy that no doubt could be tested by any number of our Members who hail from the New England states. They employ only cold-water lobster from the North Atlantic, and serve it in any number of various lobster guises-from the Lobster and Waffles ($9.50), and the Lobster Benedict ($9.50) served at breakfast, to the "Lobsicle," (fried Lobster on a stick), to Lobster Grilled Cheese, Lobster Mac'n Cheese and Lobster and Chips served later in the day. But their signature menu item is the Lobster Roll, served in a "large" and "extra-large" portion. The large Lobster Roll carries the meat of a 1 1/2 pounder and the extra-large a 2lb. Lobster. For $20.00, one gets a large Lobster Roll, very good, crispy fries and a drink. I think that's a reasonable price for a delicious roll with 1 1/2 pounds of meat, including claw, tail and body meat.

The roll is nestled in a buttered, toasted brioche roll split down the top lengthwise and then filled with the lobster meat, mayonnaise, lemon and what they call "special spices." Those "spices" turned out to be dried oregano and were an after-thought better left on the shelf. A dusting of Old Bay would have been a better choice, but in all honesty this delicious, buttery, tender, fresh Lobster didn't need anything other than it's natural beauty to proclaim a Northwesterner a fan of a New England classic.

No, I didn't try their frozen version of Lobster.

The lobster roll sounds pretty close to authentic if the bun was top-split, grilled, and buttered, and there was a full lobster and lemon. Mayo is optional--or I should say, debatable as everything about lobster rolls is a subject of deep division. Lobster mac and cheese and lobster grilled cheese are more recent favorites. Never heard of a lobster lollipop but love the idea--will have to try it this summer when I am in RI.

[janeer]

The Comme Ca dinner really sounds wonderful. Thank you for all the details and photos, David, loved the series on the Le Cirque box. It seems that the very nice combination of foie gras and strawberry was had at both Le Cirque and Comme Ca; both dishes sound very good.

I have always been a fan of Puck and agree that he is a cook.

[David Ross]

Thursday, May 10, Master Series Dinner, "And Then There Were Two," Central, Caesar's Palace -

When Chef Michel Richard made the decision to expand West from Washington, D.C., with an outpost of his restaurant Central in Caesar’s Palace, he was making a bold move—redesign the traditional 24-hour casino “Coffee Shop” into an American-Bistro style restaurant and bar that would be open all hours. A place where someone could have a glass of wine and an appetizer of deviled eggs at 4 a.m., or a plate of French toast and fresh berries at 3 p.m., in the afternoon. Literally located in the main lobby and check-in area of Caesar’s Palace, (and just a few steps away from the slot machines), Central opened in the Fall of 2011 to great fanfare.

Central is a huge space, seating 300 customers primarily in the main restaurant with additional tables on a small patio that faces the Eastside entrance to Caesar’s. Glass walls staggered throughout the dining room showcase the restaurant’s large collection of wine.

Given his impressive background as a leader in both pastry and savory cuisine in America for decades and the liberal press accolades that Central has received, I was looking forward to this dinner, one of the traditional “Master Series Dinners” at Uncork’d held on Thursday night.

Dinner at Central was hosted by David Lynch, Contributing Wine Editor to Bon Appetit and Sophie Gayot representing Gayot.com.

Unfortunately, the entire evening, from the wine service to the food, fell short of expectations. The experience proved to be especially egregious considering the fact we were at a major culinary event with a dining room full of people serious about food. One would think the staff would make an extra effort to demonstrate their abilities both in the kitchen and the front of the house on such a grand occasion. With the exception of a very good opening course and some delicious components in dishes, the food was inconsistent with the exception of the fabulous dessert presented by the unassuming Pastry Chef. So in my pursuit of honesty and integrity in reporting back to you from Las Vegas, here are some thoughts about dinner at Central.

Typically at any Uncork’d event you are served wine in appropriate glasses, often crystal, to enhance the varietal and it’s flavor nuances. At Central, the white wines were served in small glasses that looked as though they came out of a catering closet—the type of wine glass you might see on tables at other “24-hour” restaurants whose menus include dozens of varieties of eggs and waffles.

And then there was the wine staff. At most of the Uncork’d luncheons and dinners, the staff and Sommeliers are more than gracious in showcasing the wines they have chosen to accompany each course. They want you to enjoy yourself while also showing-off their wine cellar. Of course, aside from your enjoyment as a guest at a private event, they are suggesting, in a most subtle way, that you come back again for a meal at their restaurant. Being gracious with the pour at such an affair is an important factor in your decision-making process.

Seated at a table of 10, I asked for more of the white wine that was served with the first course. The response was a rigid “no, we are only serving small portions of each wine with each course!” I was a bit surprised, as was the gentleman to my left. We joked about the “you, no more wine” incident, (reminding us of the Soup Nazi from Seinfeld), for the rest of the night. Later in the evening, someone got the same response when asking for more red wine with the meat course. The waiter, sensing our frustration, walked over to the Sommelier who clearly motioned to the poor fellow not to pour additional wine. The waiter came back to our table and did it anyway.

The tables were crowded, as often happens at these events, but at least there should have been a bread plate squeezed into the array of tableware. Round rolls without a bread plate create a sort of bread roll around the table as it were.

First Course-

Asparagus Vichyssoise

Served with Ferrari Carano, Fume Blanc, Sonoma, 2010

A delicious cold soup presented in a triangular glass dish set over a large bowl, (missing the requisite crushed ice to keep the soup cold), with tiny dice of peeled, poached asparagus. Serving fresh, green asparagus in a cold guise brings out the natural flavors of this popular Spring vegetable, with the dice of poached asparagus adding a different layer of texture to the creamy soup. Dinner had started on a high note, but we would soon find the rest of the tone of dinner would turn sour.

Second Course-

Tomato Tartare

Served with Chateau D’Esclans, Whispering Angel, Rose, Cotes de Provence, 2010

When the dish was introduced we were left with anticipation that this wouldn’t really taste like a true Tartare. I thought that the comments were odd since any Tartare, whether it be meat or vegetable, should, for my tastes, be a reflection of the natural flavors of the main ingredient. The Tomato Tartare was presented as a round of diced tomato with a dressing that tasted as though it included balsamic vinegar. (As opposed to most menus presented to each diner at Uncork’d, the menu at Central only provided a basic description, making it hard for one to accurately portray what was served).

Oddly enough, comments around the dining room ranged from “that’s the best Tomato Tartare I’ve ever had,” following with “but it doesn’t taste anything like tomato.” Gosh, wouldn’t you want a Tartare to taste like Tomato? Isn’t that the point? Fresh, seasonal, tomato, thinly sliced and arrayed on the plate in a fan—and tasting of the essence of tomato. Isn’t that what you would expect from a Tomato Tartare?

Fish Course-

Seared Halibut, Lemongrass Emulsion, English Peas and Carrots

Served with Lucien Albrecht, Riesling, Alsace, 2010

At least we got more of a description with the Halibut dish. As you know, I come from the Pacific Northwest and I know Halibut so to speak. I know the delicate methods that must be used to cook Halibut, lest it be overdone and dry. Yet one can’t undercook Halibut either, for the meat will be the texture of goop and won’t bring forth the buttery flavor and meaty structure of Halibut.

In this case, the Halibut had just passed the over-cooked stage. It was flavorful yes, but had just gone about a minute past its prime. I leaned to the right to ask the Gentleman next to me if he could taste the lemongrass in the sauce and he bravely said “Yes, I’m getting a lot of lemongrass coming through.” Unfortunately, I think my Halibut was only napped with a white wine butter sauce.

The plate was in stark contrast to the delightful, pleasing presentations we expect at these private affairs. A filet of halibut dressed in white sauce, then some green peas, then three little carrots. No herbs, no garnishes. The look of the dish reminded me of a Swanson frozen dinner. The peas were fresh, yet looked quite naked on the plate. The three baby carrots, sweet and tender, would have looked more comfortable under a garnish of fresh Spring pea greens to offset their vibrant orange color.

Meat Course-

Braised Short Rib with Syrah Red Wine Sauce

Served with D’Arenberg, “The Footbolt” Shiraz, McClaren Vale, 2009

The meat was lusciously tender and flavorful, but owing to the sparse menu description, I wasn’t sure whether the beef was sitting on top of potato puree or a puree of another starch. I knew it had a tangy cheese whirled into it. I again leaned over to the Gentleman on my right, the fellow who previously told me he tasted lemongrass in the sauce on the halibut. This time he told me it wasn’t potato puree but polenta—and it had corn in it. At that point, I stopped considering his comments on the sauces and side dishes.

But the really disappointing part of the Short Rib dish were the green beans. Drab Army Green actually, the minute I saw the plate I knew the beans weren’t freshly prepared. Haricot Verts, the French darling of green beans, are so simple to prepare—just a quick blanch in boiling, salted water, then a dip in an ice cold bath. Just before service, a quick sauté in butter. This method helps the little green bean spears retain their intense green hue while keeping them crisp. I was so disappointed when I saw those faded poor bastards nestled next to the Short Rib.

Dessert Course-

Strawberry and Rhubarb Cheesecake

Served with Banfi, Rosa Regale Brachetto D’Aqui, Piedmont, NV

Again the menu description didn’t do justice to the depth and presentation of the best course of the evening. The Cheesecake was presented in the round on top of a streusel crust, a generous strawberry-rhubarb sauce drizzled around the plate and garnished with a wafer of sugar spun to the hard-crack stage. The cheesecake was silken, yet not so rich as to draw away from the fresh flavors of the berries. All too often strawberry is added to rhubarb to cut the tang and cater to the tastes of those not bold enough to try the unvarnished flavor of rhubarb. In this case, the strawberry only provided the sweetness, yet didn’t draw away from the tart flavor and fragrance of the rhubarb.

Details are everything to a restaurant. Failing to provide your Staff with the encouragement and training to please the guests, (the infamous wine snub at our private affair), can be the death of a restaurant. More importantly, flavors must be evident and clean, whether you operate a 24-hour Coffee Shop serving hash and eggs, or a Bistro opened all night.

I'm told that the Food Truck Event on Thursday night was a raving success, especially Chef Julian Serrano's huge pans of Rabbit Paella cooked "in the street." In reflection of the terribly disappointing evening at Central, (which is hindsight), I wished I'd joined the Food Truck Revolution instead.

[David Ross]

Friday, May 11, Breakfast, Planet Dailies, Planet Hollywood-

The woes of finding a good breakfast in Las Vegas continued this morning. After the terrible breakfast at The Wicked Spoon Buffet, I thought I would turn to the old-standby—the Las Vegas coffee shop. Now mind you, there are very good coffee shops in Las Vegas that serve breakfast—the spot at the Flamingo hotel is very good and appears to not have changed for 40 years. Also good is the Peppermill, a hangout for locals and a restaurant that is stuck in the disco era. There are a number of great breakfast, “coffee shops,” off the Strip and there are a few “sit-down,” more upscale places serving breakfast on the Strip-Morel’s at The Palazzo, Mon Ami Gabi at Paris and Bouchon at The Venetian to name a few. But most of us want breakfast in Las Vegas fast and cheap—and depending on our physical state in the morning and our willingness to walk a mile for an egg, the possibilities become limited.

Planet Dailies in Planet Hollywood bills itself as the traditional Las Vegas coffee shop, yet this isn’t a place where you’ll find a waitress named Gladys whose been refilling coffee mugs for 40 years. Hundreds of flat-screen TV’s line the walls and pop rock music blares into the dining room while you tuck into Fish Tacos at 6am. The waitresses are outfitted with retro-style uniforms tailored to an exact fit so to speak.

I’ve eaten at Planet Dailies in the past for both breakfast and lunch and it was quite good compared to some of the other 24-hour joints on the Strip. But after today’s breakfast, I won't be back.

I ordered the Cheese and Bacon Omelete served with Breakfast Potatoes and Toast. Oh, and a skewer of one piece of pineapple, one chunk of honeydew and a strawberry.

The prerequisite skill of any diner cook—how to cook eggs. Scrambled, fried, poached, shirred, baked, in omeletes or for the fancy cook “en cocotte,” knowing how to cook an egg must be at the top of the resume. The bacon in my omelet was generous, but the eggs had been over-cooked and the cheese was barely melted. A good omelet is made up of a soft blanket of warm, cooked eggs encasing a filling of melted cheese that oozes onto the plate under the light touch of your fork.

So as my week in Las Vegas continues, I search for a better breakfast. Maybe I’ll suggest that Bon Appetit host a “Let’s all Cook Eggs” breakfast at Uncork’d 2013.

[janeer]

So as my week in Las Vegas continues, I search for a better breakfast. Maybe I’ll suggest that Bon Appetit host a “Let’s all Cook Eggs” breakfast at Uncork’d 2013.

Ha! Good idea, and a true test.

[David Ross]

Friday, May 11, Lunch, "My Favorite Things," Michael Mina, Bellagio-

Having grown up in the Eastern Was farming town of Ellensburg, (home to one of the noted Lamb producers in America), Chef Michael Mina spent his early days in kitchens in the Pacific Northwest. After gaining a foundation based in formal training at the Culinary Institute of America and the requisite stints in noted kitchens, ten years ago Chef Mina formed financial partnerships allowing him to open restaurants in Las Vegas, including his highly-regarded namesake seafood restaurant Michael Mina at Bellagio. Chef Mina’s fine-dining empire has now grown to include five restaurants in Las Vegas and restaurants reaching from Seattle to New Jersey.

While other Chefs have taken the moniker “Celebrity” literally by expanding into soups, sauces, numerous television shows and the marketing of bottles of mayonnaise, Chef Mina has kept his focus more in line with the craftsmanship of a Chef-creating memorable dining experiences for his guests. His cuisine is refreshing and creative, with small unique touches you won’t find in other Las Vegas rooms that feature what some call “New American” cuisine. Molecular techniques aren’t employed if it’s simply to be trendy yet doesn’t have enhance the flavors on the plate.

In the six years that I've attended Uncork’d events at the Bellagio, I’ve never been disappointed by the caliber of the wines that have been served. Like no other resort hotel in the world, Bellagio’s wine staff includes three Master Sommeliers and a deep cellar and experienced staff dedicated to working with the Chefs to create the ultimate taste and flavor combinations.

Michael Mina is located in the Conservatory at Bellagio where themed gardens bursting with fresh flowers change with the seasons-

The theme of our luncheon was “My Favorite Things,” playing off some of Chef Mina’s favorite ingredients and his penchant for weaving Asian flavors into his dishes.

Cocktail-

The Violet Femme

Encanta Pisco, Crème de Violette, Honey and Lavendar

The sweet and sour cocktail was presented with a garnish of a fresh, intensely-perfumed lavender flower. It was light yet creamy, yet the alcohol of the Pisco was tempered and didn’t inflame the other delicate flavors. The experience of having my first Pisco cocktail was enhanced by our Argentinian Server who schooled us in the intricacies of one of his country’s treasured brandies. And at the end of lunch he was gracious enough to provide each of us with the specific recipe for the Violet Femme.

Fish Course-

Hamachi Crudo

Sake-Cured Cucumber, Sea Bream Emulsion, Wasabi Oil

Served with Yoshinogawa Winter Warrier Junmai Ginjo Sake, Niigata Prefecture

One finds Hamachi appearing on menus throughout Las Vegas—but it’s the way it’s treated, the garnishes that accompany it, that lift the delicate flavors of the fish. The cucumber had been vacuum-sealed and compressed to enhance its herbal flavor. The sea bream emulsion, a delicate fish essence, added notes of the sea and the wasabi oil added heat.

While I’ve tasted numerous Asian-inspired dishes at Uncork’d over the past six years, this was the first time at any Uncork’d event that the Sommelier has been sensible enough to realize that a cold, sweet Sake is the natural accompaniment to Hamachi.

Meat Course-

Liberty Farms Duck

Stewed Rhubarb, Foie Gras Kumquat, “Forbidden Rice”

Served with Au Bon Climat, Sanford and Benedict, Santa Rita Hills 2007

The duck showed Chef Mina’s creativity yet the lengths to which he and his kitchen staff will go to craft a dish with unique flavors. The ducks had been hung and chilled for 48 hours to concentrate the flavor of the meat and allow for a crisp skin at the point of cooking the breasts. The livers of the ducks were combined with foie gras which was then stirred into the “Forbidden Rice.”

The carving of the duck breast was a pleasant surprise. Rather than thin slices of rosy-red, rare duck breast, two large cuts the size of a steak were presented on each plate. The skin was crisp and the medium-rare meat had a strong texture and concentrated flavor, no doubt coming from the aging process. The plate was garnished with sautéed Swiss chard and kumquats. Ah, those dear little kumquats had been poached to soften the skin and the inner fruit removed before foie gras mousse was then stuffed into the kumquat. On first taste, a burst of tangy citrus and then you were taken to the soft, rich, unctuous flavor of foie gras.

Chef Mina came to the table holding forth a copper pot of “Forbidden Rice”—ebony black with the flavor and texture of wild rice—and stirred in a good measure of foie gras before serving each guest.

My only quibble with the duck dish was a lack of any flavor of rhubarb, one of Spring’s most fabulous fruits. But the dismissal of rhubarb didn’t harm the success of the duck given the plate was drizzled with duck “jus” and had the richness of foie gras in both the rice and stuffed into the kumquats.

Dessert Course-

Passion Fruit Panna Cotta

Coconut-Lime Sorbet

Served with Kracher, Cuvee Beerenauslese, Burgenland, Austria, 2008

Typically served from a round mold, the panna cotta was brought to the table in a chilled dish and the Waiter poured lemongrass consomee into the bowl. The silken panna cotta was garnished with citrus supremes and a refreshing coconut-lime sorbet.

From the personal service to the thoughtful flavors of each course, gathering together to create a theme of “My Favorite Things,” lunch at Michael Mina spoke to a Chef and his Staff who do things in a unique, yet subtle and delicious manner.

[David Ross]

And so we come to the point in our discussion where we introduce the topic of Gordon Ramsay's arrival in Las Vegas. It's not a coincidence that Chef Ramsay chose to open his restaurant during the one week in Las Vegas each year that features the greatest collection of talented Chefs from across the globe. Not only does it provide him and the Management backing his venture at Paris Hotel the opportunity to trump the competition, but it offers the chance to cater to much of the food press--and to somewhat trump the affairs of Uncork'd.

After I had booked the aforementioned luncheon at Michael Mina, I received an email invitation to attend Chef Ramsay's press conference at Gordon Ramsay Steak at Paris Hotel. The press conference, billed as "an exclusive opportunity," was apparently only open to a few select members of the food press. How I passed the muster to even be invited is still a mystery. However, owing to a proper upbringing by my Mother who schooled me in manners, I declined the Ramsay invitation and stuck to my previous engagement at Michael Mina. Who in their right mind would pass-up an invitation to attend a private press conference with Gordon Ramsay who would be preparing Caesar Salad and Beef Wellington no less? If you subscribe to the theory that press conferences are more important than honoring previous commitments to a private lunch with Chef Mina, then you would count me as delirious. One hopes if you enjoyed the above report on my luncheon at Mina you'll agree that I made a civil choice.

As one who appeared on the original American version of BBC's "MasterChef USA," I've struggled with trying to swallow a taste for Ramsay's derivation of MasterChef on Fox, and to an even lesser degree, the distasteful "Hell's Kitchen," another Ramsay reality series appearing on Fox. But Ramsay's portrayal of a character throwing soup pots and liberally shouting out profanities to cowering Chefs is not a fair measure of the man who is Gordon Ramsay. As we go into the latter days of Uncork'd, I'll share more thoughts on Gordon Ramsay's opening act in Las Vegas.

[David Ross]

Friday, May 11, "Grand Tasting," Caesar's Palace-

The Grand Tasting is viewed as a fabulous opportunity to meet all of the Chefs in attendance at Uncork’d and to savor small bites of the best dishes from their restaurants. It is still, after six years, the most popular of all the Uncork’d events both in terms of guest preferences and overall ticket sales.

The setting for the Grand Tasting amidst the pools at Caesar’s Palace truly reflects the “Garden of the Gods” title. The architecture evokes a Roman bacchanalia and the Grand Tasting delivers on that front. The food is especially good given the limitations placed on the Chefs. An immense amount of prep work must be done back at the home kitchen to prepare over 1,500 servings, then the whole lot has to be trucked over to Caesar’s, loaded into portable warmers, blast chillers, buckets and ice chests and slogged through the back entrance of the massive Caesar’s empire before it reaches the booths poolside. This is catering on a monumental scale.

I was fortunate to be given early access to the Grand Tasting before sundown so I could snap some photos and before the thundering herds stampeded onto the grazing pastures. Once the red velvet rope is pulled to the side, literally throngs of people rush forward. Within half an hour there are so many people clamoring for Bombay Sapphire Cocktails and Sweet and Sour Black Cod that you want to fold your hand, place your cards on the table and call it a night. Which I did. Then I walked back to my hotel and ordered one of the best cheeseburgers in Las Vegas at the Skybox Sports Bar at Aria.

In an effort to give you a fair portrayal of this beautiful setting and the intense preparation undertaken by the Chefs, I’ll offer a photo essay of the Grand Tasting. Mind you, there are plenty of guests who rate the Grand Tasting as the highlight of their journey through the Uncork’d events. Since I’ve attended the Grand Tasting for six years, I think I’ve had my fill. Robuchon and his Foie Gras Sliders were starkly absent this year, as was any notable restaurant from either The Venetian or The Palazzo. Maybe they’ve tired of the event like I have.

There is always a red carpet and fawning paparazzi trying to capture the best shot. Most of the Chefs work in kitchens behind the scenes and they are somewhat amused by the attention-

An amazing amount of pre-planning and prep work goes into the Grand Tasting-

One of the best, Chef Laurent Tourondol-

Chef Kerry Simon employs these ladies to serve his burgers-

[David Ross]

The Batali crew and their salumi hanging from on high-

Gordon Ramsay in a quiet moment. For the rest of the evening he would be

mobbed by women who were elbowing in for a photo op. The large, menacing

body guards kept the common folk away-

The best dish of the evening was this delicious, huge portion of Beef Wellington

served by Chef Ramsay and the staff from Gordon Ramsay Steak. (And the Sticky

Toffee Pudding wasn't too bad either)-

Macaroons from Chef Francois Payard-

New to the 2012 Grand Tasting, Old Homestead Steakhouse from New York which

opened in Caesar's Palace earlier this year-

[David Ross]

Saturday, May 12, "Breakfast from Walgreen's," Vdara-

No doubt you have seen the iconic American film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” starring the enduring beauty, Audrey Hepburn. On Friday morning in Las Vegas, my version of the morning meal was titled “Breakfast From Walgreen’s.” No, Walgreen’s hasn’t resurrected the Five and Dime Store Soda and Luncheon Counter at their new flagship store on the Strip, but Walgreen’s does have a selection of groceries including fresh eggs, passable bacon, butter and bread.

I’ve taken up temporary residence this week at the Vdara hotel in a room larger than my home and outfitted with a full kitchen, Thermidor refrigerator, range, oven, microwave, dishwasher and All-Clad cookware. I figured that cooking breakfast ala’ Walgreen’s certainly couldn’t be worse than the Wicked Spoon Buffet or the Planet Dailies coffee shop.

Assisted by proper French press coffee and pastries from World Champion Master Pastry Chef Jean-Phillipe Maury just steps from Vdara in the Aria Hotel, it was time to get back to the kitchen. Breakfast was hot and delicious, the eggs seasoned just the way I like them with lots of black pepper, the bacon hot and crisp.

And yes, this morning I remembered the chilled vodka and bottle of Clamato in the refrigerator. "Breakfast From Walgreen’s" ala Chez David Ross was the best breakfast of the week—so far.

[David Ross]

Saturday, May 12, Lunch, “Chronicles of a Couple that Cooks Together,” Prime, Bellagio-

Saturday's private luncheon at Prime restaurant was hosted by Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and his wife Marja. In addition to a global restaurant empire, Chef Jean-Georges, (who needs no introduction as to his culinary talents), and Marja host the “Kimchi Chronicles” program that appears on PBS.

“Kimchi Chronicles” takes us on a journey to Korea, weaving together the cuisine, culture and food to tell a story of self-discovery for Marja and Jean-Georges. Their love, appreciation and respect for one another is reflected in their passion for cooking using ingredients they find in the markets of Korea-Marja creating traditional Korean dishes and Jean-Georges marrying Korean ingredients with influences from his native France. But the “Kimchi Chronicles” takes a different fork in the road from mainstream food programming by not simply focusing on a couple in the kitchen. Born to a Korean Mother and an African-American soldier, “Kimchi Chronicles” documents Marja’s re-discovery of the cuisine of her homeland--a re-awakening that allows her to fully embrace the Korean culture after years of feeling as though she was an outsider in her native country due to her mixed-race.

Jean-Georges and Marja are a gregarious couple—he the soft-spoken Frenchman with a quiet, yet devilish sense of humor, she the naturally out-going personality never without a smile and a laugh-

Given their schedules, it's hard for the couple to find time to cook at home. Yet home is where Jean-Georges develops most of his recipes and it’s at their country home in New York state where they cook on the weekends. According to Chef, Marja makes the best Mac’n Cheese in the world. Marja favors Jean-Georges traditional Alsatian dish “Baeckeoffe,” a slow-cooked stew with layers of lamb and potatoes.

The setting of the dining room at Prime evokes a gilded, Edwardian age with high-ceilings, ornately-carved, gold-accented, dark wood pillars and heavy silk drapes, but today the focus wouldn’t be on the décor. As Marja explained, “today we are having Korean peasant food.”

The tables were set with eight traditional Korean “Banchan” (side dishes), including Spinach, Seaweed, Daikon, Bean Sprouts, Fermented Eggplant Pickles, two type of Kimchi and housemade Chili Sauce. We were encouraged to taste the Banchan with both the First Course and the Meat Course-

First Course-

Herbed Mung Bean Pancakes with Smoked Salmon and Caviar

Served with a 2009 Von Buhl, Kabinett-Style Riesling, Germany

Korea was represented by the Mung Bean Pancake with an earthy, tangy soft pillow of Mung Beans enveloped by a crisp crust. The Pancake was sitting next to its French cousin, lush, lightly smoked slices of salmon and salty caviar. As Jean-Georges said, “you can’t have Smoked Salmon without Caviar”-

Second Course-

Kobe Ribeye “Bulgogi” Style served with Rice and Lettuce Leaves

Served with a 2009 Joseph Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon

As I looked around the dining room, I noticed some people using their knife and fork and taking individual bites of each component of the dish. But you'll never experience the bold mixture of flavors if you eat a bit of lettuce, a spoon of rice and then a bite of steak. Bulgogi served in this style is really intended to be eaten as it would in the streets of Seoul--wrapping the meat, rice, chili sauce and other condiments of your choosing in a lettuce leaf and eating it with one's hands-

Jean-Georges purveys grade 9 100% Kobe beef from Australia. Apparently most Steakhouses in Las Vegas only vend grade 6 Prime US beef. But it’s not merely the grade of meat that matters when it comes to Kobe. Too many Las Vegas Steakhouses get it wrong when it comes to cooking premium beef. Imagine a 2” thick Kobe Ribeye weighing in at 16 ounces--not only would it cost you a fortune, your taste buds would be slathered with fatty beef that isn’t intended to be eaten in that manner. The staff at Prime treated the ribeye with respect by marinating it in the Korean manner, then grilling and thinly slicing the steak so you taste the texture, flavor and marbling of this exceptional experience-

Dessert Course-

"Passion" Fruit Sunflower with Crisp Meringue, Vanilla Pastry Cream

Dessert evoked both Gallic technique in the crisp meringue and cool Asian flavors of exotic fruit in the pastry cream-

After lunch we had the opportunity to ask Jean-Georges and Marja questions about their lives in food. When asked who his favorite Chef is today, Jean-Georges first hesitated then finally relented and named Grant Achatz of Alinea restaurant in Chicago. But he did qualify his answer by saying that “molecular went too far, but now we are going back to local, small producers in our local communities.” (And maybe a few scientific twists added to the plate). Then the conversation turned personal.

I sensed a deeper meaning behind the journey of the “Kimchi Chronicles.” I asked Marja about her favorite episode of the show and she said it was the emotional episode where she revisited her extended Korean Family back in her homeland. She said, “I learned the Korean culture through the food. It was the food of Korea that always tied me to my heritage, yet until that journey I always felt like an outsider.” Marja had lost contact with her Mother for many years, but eventually re-connected with her when she surprisingly found she lived near her own home in New York City.

The food at Jean-Georges was exceptional, as were the wines, the service and the conversation. But my lasting memory will be the story of Marja’s journey back to Korea in search of her culture and her life with Jean-Georges. It’s a personal and insightful portrayal that we rarely see behind the façade of what we know as the “Celebrity Chef.” It’s a story about family and love and how a shared passion for food and cooking can bring people of different colors and cultures together at the table.