"Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook"

[ChrisTaylor]

I realised at maybe 3am that I forgot to actually take a photo. Anyway. I had no plans to serve the dish as it's described in the book--I was going to serve it and a couple sides and leave dinner at that--but I wanted to retain most of the elements in some form. I prepared the ragu as it was detailed in the recipe, altho' I did have to braise it for the best part of three hours before the meat was happy to part from the bone. Altho' that sort of variation is normal: could be, the (wild) hare I had was a just that little bit older and tougher than whatever they buy in for the restaurant.

I didn't use any pig's blood in the sauce. The only butcher I know of that sells the stuff has plastic tubs of 'blood jelly' sitting around for very long periods of time (it's not a popular item, as you can imagine). I wasn't too confident about using such a product. Next time I'd probably make up for the lack of blood flavour in the sauce by maybe buying some nice blood sausage or something.

For the torchon I used a bloc of foie mousse I had sitting around. It did the job.

In place of the truffles I had a side of nice mushrooms jacked with a little porcini powder and in place of the potato mousse I made some retrograded mashed potatoes (purely because I don't have a siphon).

I was happy with the dish overall, altho' next time I think I'd lose the corn starch from the chocolate sauce and sub in some xantham gum or something. Or, you know, just allow the heavily reduced chicken stock to do its thing and thicken the sauce without any added ingredients. One thing that drives me nuts about the book, and possibly prevents me from using it more often, is the cups/tablespoons business. Who the shit measures currants by volume?

[Baselerd]

Yeah, it's a bit annoying - although he uses weight measurements for the stuff that really matters (modern thickeners & gelling agents) usually. I can usually just use my intuition on most other things ... no real harm is done if you have a 5% error on your currant measurement.

[rotuts]

finally got this book out of the lib.

mm: these guys have been stealing your stuff!

outrageous !

[tammylc]

I'm planning to make the sweet potato beignets for a dinner party on Friday. I'm wondering about their suitability for advance prep. The timing seems fiddly with the instructions to freeze for 30 minutes, roll into balls, then coat in panko. If I refrigerate them after this step, will they hold their shape for frying a la minute? Should I just fully freeze them in the first step, and pull them early to allow them to soften before rolling and frying?

I'm sure the restaurant has them prepped and ready to pop in the fryer, so just trying to figure out the best method for doing that. Anyone have experience/opinion?

[mm84321]

Keep them frozen until frying.

[Baselerd]

I recently made one of the hors d'oeuvres from the book - chicken liver cracklings. First, some chicken skin is roasted in the oven between two parchment-lined sheets until crispy. It is served with some chicken liver mousse and garnished with pickled mushrooms (I used some shiitake pickles instead of enoki), a red grape slice, chives, and shaved frozen foie gras. I didn't have any black truffles, so I drizzled it with some truffle oil.

It turned out really tasty, but super rich. Perhaps I served it with too much liver mousse, but it was a bit much for me. With that said, the recipe makes a TON of liver mousse. The stuff is amazing, and will probably be my go-to recipe for pate, etc.

[nickrey]

Last night I made up the Beef Roasted Tenderloin with Bone Marrow Crust, Swiss Chard and Chanterelles.

 

The Tenderloin was substituted with some skirt that I had bound together into a tenderloin shape with transglutaminese (and cooked for 20 hours rather than the 30 minutes for the tenderloin) and the chanterelles were substituted with cubes of portobello but all the other elements were as per the recipe.

 

As usual, there were many processes involved and cooking took a long while but once again the product was spectacular.

 

Everything I've made from the book has been top class in terms of flavour and presentation.

 

Sorry there is no picture. One of the guests took one so I'll see if I can get it to post.

Edited July 26, 2014 by nickrey (log)

[Kelly Pustka Jones]

Cauliflower Roasted with Grapes, Almonds and Curry.

Beef with Bone Marrow Crust, Swiss Chard and Braised Oxtail.

HI, was wondering how you cooked the sous vide cauliflower?  Do you have a combi steam oven?  I do not, and was wondering if i was to sous vide it for 20 min @185 if it would work the same?

[Ratatata]

Hi everyone, I know this is an old cookbook that is not always loved but I would have loved to have more context when considering the recipes. so here it. Hopefuly this is the right place.
One key point is this is not a cookbook for the faint of heart. I dont really classify this book into the cookbook category. It is an educational experience? Requires real commitment. 
I have learned A LOT about the difference it makes to really do things the hard way, to take time, and be patient. 
There are recipes I have walked away from thinking "this is was nice but not worth the extra steps/time", especially when they were a take on a classic. Some where I cooked for 36 hours convinced every component tasted odd or weird, only to plate them together and be blown away with the flavor combination coming together, some where I fully appreciated why spending that extra time  was absolutely worth it. I am not at the point where I can freely lean on that knowledge into my regular cooking or improvise on it.I have found that most of the very easy/simple recipes are not as worthwhile as the more complex ones, vs. cooking a similar dish without the complex ingredients/techniques.

I have loved the original version, I have found very few recipes I wanted to take on in the Next chapter version.
I have so far stayed away from anything requiring NO2 cartridges or Nitrogen.Somewhat concerned about safety. But i have been able to secure most equipment required (aka without alternative) without too much investment. Sous vide/circulator was actually not that much $. Neither was a chinois.

Garden Pea Soup: made it early on, it was ok but disappointing, mostly because it felt very starchy due to the qualityof the peas. 
Strawberry Gaspacho: a very easy recipe, I made this multiple times. The first time was great,the second time the strawberries were too sweet and it threw off the balance of the dish, felt like a dessert. 
Ricotta Gnocchi: This dish was a nice concept but execution was a failure. The larger sized gnochhi couldnt get brown very well and the dish ended up feeling very mushy/one texture. I would try again but change to regular size gnochhi and be really focused on getting them browned 
Chocolate and Fleur de Sel/Caramel: a nice dish but my ice cream maker failed me. I tend to be more impressed with interesting flavor profiles vs the standards (chocolate/caramel) which can be achieved through simpler recipe with great results.
Corn Chilled soup with lobster: made multiple times, a great recipe. I have skipped the corn bavarois the second time, it is very rich. and it was almost as nice without. 
Tomato Salad with mozarella ice cream: Cherry tomato confit was amazing, the mozzarella ice cream felt gimicky, and not worth the trouble. Same recipe with regular mozarella or burrata was great.
Duck Lavender Glazed with fennel/peaches: no notes, but did have to change the recipe to duck magret to make it more doable, which changed the impact of the spice mix. That mix is great.
Lamb yogurt/cumin: Changed it to beef tenderloin since I could not serve lamb, it was a hit. Great dish to cook when hosting with the sous vide cooking in advance it was "easy". the yogurt gel did not take and that has been an issue on several dishes. I did not see the benefit of using the gel vs the original yogurt, since it did not pan out. 
Malt Sorbet and Olive oil: a very strange dessert but it really delivered. I would make this again.
Beet Salad with chevre/caraway: it was fine but forgettable
Loup de Mer Porcini, Sweet potatoes, iberico ham: loved this recipe. The fig jus was incredible. 
Lobster Poached with fennel/orange/persinmmon: this was a great success. poaching the lobster was delicious, and surprisingly easy. I had to skip the roe powder, but used lobster oil and salmon roe. 
Beef tenderloin with bone marrow crust/chanterelles: I discovered through that dish I just hate cooking with bone marrow. Not my jam. The dish was nice but the result did not match the work required . 
Hobelchas with apple and chestnut: this is really a case of sourcing the right ingredients at the right time. The dish did not look good and was just not great. 
Goat cheese and Lemon Galette: this was nice.
Hamachi Lemon Fennel Horseradish: probably my favorite recipe in this book. Very easy/simple, but delivers. A few items can be simplified, including the horseradish puree. The white soylemon vinaigrette has become a staple in our household.
Raddichio mozarella mango basil: another ok but forgettable dish.
Potato smoked with truffles and pork crumble: I could not figure out the potato mousseline on this one (was serving off site, too tricky) and had to find an alternative option. this was nice but would deserve another try. Pork crumble was a great component, I could see it being used in other dishes.
Vacherin mont dor potatoes and mustard: this was a hit. The cheese is hard to locate in the US but found very close alternatives/copy cat. The potato confit was absolutely worthwhile and a standout, could be served with other dishes. Made these multiple times. 
Chocolate Cremeux, yuzu, banana, sesame: a great dessert. I am not a fan of any of these flavors but it delivered. The tapioca tuile recip: had to do it twice/adapt it as the tapioca pearls were not cooking correctly/as explained. I had to skip the sesame areated chocolate since I did not want to use a no2 cartridge/canister. The yuzu pate de fruit did not take/solidify as much as it should have. Woud do this one again. 

There are recipes in the book that dont appeal to me, some that just use too complicated of ingredients. I now feel ok making some changes if it allows me to try a dish I have wanted to make. I am trying the Suckling pig confit with onions and cherry sauce, where I will use regular pork instead (cant cook suckling pig), the scallops, fennels, tangerine and tarragon and the apricot and almond dessert this year. 

The lobster poached with bergamot is one of the recipe I have been wanting to try for a while but cant seem to locate bergamot. if any of you have any ideas on sourcing fresh bergamot in the midwest..I would take it. 
 

[AAQuesada]

Love your review, I know it wasn't meant that way but it makes me want to buy the book! Btw, I think the key with any ricotta gnocchi is to get a firm ricotta. Ricotta that is too wet can really ruin that recipe. Bellwether Farms makes a good one that comes in a draining basket, if you can find it. 

[JeanneCake]

5 hours ago, Ratatata said:

The lobster poached with bergamot is one of the recipe I have been wanting to try for a while but cant seem to locate bergamot. if any of you have any ideas on sourcing fresh bergamot in the midwest..I would take it. 
 

 

You might want to check some specialty produce suppliers; here in Boston we have Sid Wainer/Chef's Warehouse that is known to stock hard-to-find items (they were  the only place I could find baby kiwi aka kiwi berries).  They have fresh bergamot, a 10# box is $101.  If they only sell to the trade, see if they can suggest a restaurant or caterer they supply and perhaps they'll let you buy from the restaurant.

 

You can see if an online purveyor can ship to you; maybe Goldbelly?  I found this place in CA: https://www.pearsonranch.com/collections/buy-bergamot-oranges?srsltid=AfmBOooU6VUZYheRZGqMmNvR8iSdZZye3hsAtd2G3skFQfTlcYb-28gC