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Posted

Is it correct to assume that there's a higher upside to being a pastry chef in europe than in america?

In europe, you've got pastry chefs like Pierre Herme and Sadaharu Aoki who've gone out and opened up their own succesfull pastry shops that are well known on a national even international level. While, in america, it seems that the top pastry chef must be wedded to a top notch restaurant to remain relevant. And, with so many middle of the road restaurants in america outsourcing their desserts, it really does seem like pastry chefs are a dying breed in america unless you can latch onto a top restaurant.

You look at some of the top pastry chefs in america ten years ago, and I'm not sure that many people remember them once they left their four star restaurants. Michelle Gayer, the former pastry chef at Charlie Trotter, ended up opening a small neighborhood bakery store in Minnesota. And, then there's Claudia Flemming, the former pastry chef at Gramcery Tavern. Today, she runs a small bed and breakfast on Long Island. In NYC, how many diners know about her desserts even though her place is located just on Long Island?

Are there any pastry chefs in america who've been able to find success in opening up their own pastry shop, outside of the four star dessert paradigm?

Posted

Jacques Torres and Francois Payard come to mind right away.

I think some of the former top pastry chefs who are now less prominent have gone that route by choice. Claudia Fleming, for example, moved to the North Fork of Long Island with her husband Gerry Hayden (a chef) and they're now living a different kind of life. Between Gramercy Tavern and North Fork Table & Inn, Claudia Fleming took a position with Pret a Manger. While it didn't develop into mega-corporate success, it probably had that potential.

Then there are some ventures that are probably more baking than pastry, but we don't make such a firm distinction here. For example, you have a place like Sarabeth's. Or Magnolia bakery for that matter. I live across the street from the uptown Magnolia and there are people from all over the world lining up for those stupid cupcakes. I don't really know the backgrounds of the Magnolia people, though. They may or may not be pastry chefs.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

Posted

Google/check out Thomas Haas, one of Vancouver's finest pastry Chefs

I 2nd that rec - he's really good. So many times I go into a pastry shop and the case if filled with examples of i) bad technique and ii) stale/off flavors. Not so with Thomas Haas. Highly recommended.

You can find lots of articles about him on the web with some links on his web site.

John DePaula
formerly of DePaula Confections
Hand-crafted artisanal chocolates & gourmet confections - …Because Pleasure Matters…
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When asked “What are the secrets of good cooking? Escoffier replied, “There are three: butter, butter and butter.”

Posted

Jacques Torres and Francois Payard come to mind right away.

Jacques and Francois, just a coupla downhome American guys...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I think mcohen has a point. Torres and Payard are successful, but are they known outside the extreme food geek community or outside their immediate neighborhoods? It strikes me as a cultural difference, even if the difference is likely to diminish over the next several years.

Notes from the underbelly

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