Christmas in Paris

[ulterior epicure]

Although I've been to Paris more times than the average American could hope to visit, I have yet to visit near Christmastime.

I'm in the preliminary stages of planning a trip to Paris during the week leading up to Christmas. The main purpose of the trip is actually a business trip to London, but I'm negotiating in a side-trip to Paris. Actually, if I have my way, my time in London will be but a side-trip to Paris.

So, here are some questions that I hope this forum will be patient and generous enough to indulge me by answering:

1. What happens in Paris during Christmas? Let me rephrase: what happens to restaurants during the holidays - the week leading up to and on the Christmas? What I'm hoping you'll tell me is that the city is dead and devoid of tourists and I'll waltz into hard reservations and get the cheapest hotel fares.

2. I'm trying to decide which one of the "L'A's" to go to: L'Astrance, L'Ambroisie, or L'Arpege. I've heard pros and cons for all of the above.

3. I plan and hope to get a good mix of Michelins and bistros. Other than maybe two Michelin dinners, I plan to keep the "l'etoile" eating to lunches and leave the dinners to more casual venues. As with #2 above, any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.

Though months away, I'm somewhat excited to be getting back to Paris, even if it will be cold. The last time I was in Paris was October, 2005, when I had a disappointing meal at Le Cinq (at the time a (waning) 3-star under Legendre), an encouraging meal at Le Carre des Feuillants, and a rather satisfying dinner at L'Os a Moelle.

Edited August 19, 2008 by ulterior epicure (log)

[robyn]

Although I've been to Paris more times than the average American could hope to visit, I have yet to visit near Christmastime.

I'm in the preliminary stages of planning a trip to Paris during the week leading up to Christmas. The main purpose of the trip is actually a business trip to London, but I'm negotiating in a side-trip to Paris.  Actually, if I have my way, my time in London will be but a side-trip to Paris. 

So, here are some questions that I hope this forum will be patient and generous enough to indulge me by answering:

1. What happens in Paris during Christmas?  Let me rephrase: what happens to restaurants during the holidays - the week leading up to and on the Christmas? What I'm hoping you'll tell me is that the city is dead and devoid of tourists and I'll waltz into hard reservations and get the cheapest hotel fares.

2. I'm trying to decide which one of the "L'A's" to go to: L'Astrance, L'Ambroisie, or L'Arpege.  I've heard pros and cons for all of the above.

3. I plan and hope to get a good mix of Michelins and bistros.  Other than on, maybe two Michelin dinners, I plan to keep the "l'etoile" eating to lunches and leave the dinners to more casual venues. As with #2 above, any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.

Though months away, I'm somewhat excited to be getting back to Paris, even if it will be cold.  The last time I was in Paris was October, 2008, when I had a disappointing meal at Le Cinq (at the time a (waning) 3-star under Legendre), an encouraging meal at Le Carre des Feuillants, and a rather satisfying dinner at L'Os a Moelle.

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If you look at the Michelin Guide - you'll see that many restaurants in Paris close a few days before Christmas - and reopen after the New Year. Probably not a majority - but quite a few. I'm sure there will be plenty of places to eat - but perhaps not the places you had in mind. Robyn

[John Talbott]

I am gradually updating the compendia of existing topics and there is one on holidays and one that is specific to Christmas.

[ulterior epicure]

I am gradually updating the compendia of existing topics and there is one on holidays and one that is specific to Christmas.

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Thanks, John. The vast majority of the lists and recommendations on the latter thread seems to be focused on New Years Eve rather than Christmas Eve/Christmas.

[grace3]

A few years back I was in Paris over the Christmas holidays.

The decorations are lovely.

I dined at Violon d'Ingres on Christmas Eve...that was the old more formal Violon. I do not think they are open on Christmas Eve now. I dined at Les Ambassadeurs for Christmas Day. The menu was online...perhaps you can find it there now.

The large hotels will be taking care of their guests. I would check out Le Meurice, Bristol, etc....

[ulterior epicure]

A few years back I was in Paris over the Christmas holidays.

The decorations are lovely.

I dined at Violon d'Ingres on Christmas Eve...that was the old more formal Violon. I do not think they are open on Christmas Eve now. I dined at Les Ambassadeurs for Christmas Day. The menu was online...perhaps you can find it there now.

The large hotels will be taking care of their guests. I would check out Le Meurice, Bristol, etc....

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Do they offer special Christmas menus, or can you get their "regular fare?"

[julot-les-pinceaux]

Christmas is just a bad time for food in Paris, especially christmas eve or nye. There are special christmas fare everywhere and you usually eat less good and more expensive than usual. Of course the top restaurants (those that remain open, that is) kind of maintain their quality standards. Good food suddenly gets much more expensive due to the peak in demand.

Edited August 19, 2008 by julot-les-pinceaux (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Christmas is just a bad time for food in Paris, especially christmas eve or nye. There are special christmas fare everywhere and you usually eat less good and more expensive than usual. Of course the top restaurants (those that remain open, that is) kind of maintain their quality standards. Good food suddenly gets much more expensive due to the peak in demand.

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Although I'm not surprised, that's what I was afraid would be the case.

[John Talbott]

Christmas is just a bad time for food in Paris, especially christmas eve or nye. There are special christmas fare everywhere and you usually eat less good and more expensive than usual. Of course the top restaurants (those that remain open, that is) kind of maintain their quality standards. Good food suddenly gets much more expensive due to the peak in demand.

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Although I'm not surprised, that's what I was afraid would be the case.

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Let me just add that I've been in Paris the week between Christmas and New Year's for two decades and while it requires extra attention and more searching, one can survive for at least one meal out per day.

[grace3]

When I dined at Les Ambassadeurs on Christmas Day I had their Special Christmas Menu. I am sure that you could order something other than that.

I think you will find places to dine. You will just have to spend a bit more time in finding who is open and who is closed...yes, the prices might be higher.

I'm sure that you will enjoy..I know that I did!!

[PhilD]

Let me just add that I've been in Paris the week between Christmas and New Year's for two decades and while it requires extra attention and more searching, one can survive for at least one meal out per day.

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I agree with John. I found the period before Christmas to be really good in Paris. As others have said the shops and streets are really nicely decorated, festive but far from commercial. There is also a good feeling about the place far different from places like London where rampent commercialisation has taken over.

We found that quite a few restaurants do close for an extended holiday, but those that are open are far less crowded. We, for example, strolled into L'Atelier Joel Robuchon at 8:30 (with no reservation) in the week before Christmas and had a choice of places to sit. We had a very relaxed meal, a nice contrast to the usual rushed affair here.

With Christmas day on a Thursday this year you may find some places pack up around the 20th.

[TarteTatin]

We've gone for years between Christmas and New Year's.

Lots closed, but have had a super time!

Oysters are everywhere. On the street, in restaurants...

Not on a food note, but it is so fun to go to the department store windows and window shop!

Rent an apartment and go to the Christmas markets. Lots of festivities, have a Nutella crepe.

If you are there at New Year's: walk onto a Pont, any Pont, with a bottle of champagne around 11:30. Watch the fireworks, and at Midnight, kiss your partner and drink the champagne out of the bottle as do hundreds of others. Very romantic!

New Year's Day bring a little picnic into the Jardin du Luxembourg. Sail a boat.

Nothing better.

[ulterior epicure]

New Year's Day bring a little picnic into the Jardin du Luxembourg. Sail a boat.

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And freeze to death...

[tupac17616]

New Year's Day bring a little picnic into the Jardin du Luxembourg. Sail a boat.

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And freeze to death...

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Where's your sense of romance, u.e.?

I don't know the first thing about what is and is not open around Christmas, but I do know that between your three "L'A's" the choice is not easy. Based on my limited experience (not yet been to L'Ambroisie), I would definitely go for l'Arpege if you've not been before.

[ulterior epicure]

Where's your sense of romance, u.e.? 

It freezes along with the rest of Paris on January 1.

I don't know the first thing about what is and is not open around Christmas, but I do know that between your three "L'A's" the choice is not easy.  Based on my limited experience (not yet been to L'Ambroisie), I would definitely go for l'Arpege if you've not been before.

Well, now I'm thinking of doing L'Arpege and L'Astrance - and going for lunch, although I have no idea if that's going to save me any money whatsoever.

Question: when people say that they had "four courses split" - do they mean that between them and (presumably) one other, had the kitchen split four courses so that each had a sampling of the four, or that they each ordered four and had the kitchen split it so that each, in effect, got to sample eight dishes? I'm assuming the former.

I don't know whether the fact that most of the restaurants I'm *trying* to research don't have websites is annoying or endearing. At this stage, when I'm trying to find out reservation policies and prices, I find it annoying. I'm assuming that after all is said and done, I'll find it endearing.

In case anyone wants to ballpark the following restaurants for me, I'd love to know what the average meal, without wine, would cost per person (lunch and/or dinner). I would accept a (limited) range of prices:

L'Arpege

L'Astrance

Ledoyen

Repaire de Cartouche

Violon d'Ingres

Le Baratin

Spring

Le Comptoir

Le Chateaubriand

Website links to any of them (except L'Arpege, which seems to have its internet game on) would also be greatly appreciated.

Edited August 20, 2008 by ulterior epicure (log)

[tupac17616]

In case anyone wants to ballpark the following restaurants for me, I'd love to know what the average meal, without wine, would cost per person (lunch and/or dinner).  I would accept a (limited) range of prices:

L'Arpege

L'Astrance

Ledoyen

Repaire de Cartouche

Violon d'Ingres

Le Baratin

Spring

Le Comptoir

Le Chateaubriand

Website links to any of them (except L'Arpege, which seems to have its internet game on) would also be greatly appreciated.

l'Arpege -- 8-course lunch tasting 135€, 10-course regular tasting 360€, truffle menu probably 450-500€

l'Astrance -- 70€(110€)/120€(190€)/190€(290€) for 3/5/8 courses, respectively. Prices in parentheses include wine pairings, which I'd recommend here.

Ledoyen (lamest website ever) -- 88€ lunch, 180€?? dinner

Repaire de Cartouche -- lunch 15-25€, dinner 40€

Violin d'Ingres -- 3 courses for 45€, 2 courses for 34€

Le Baratin -- lunch 14€, dinner 38€

Spring -- 4 course Menu du Marché 42€

Le Comptoir -- 5 courses for 40€

Le Chateaubriand -- 4 or 5 courses for 42€

[ulterior epicure]

Okay, who's rocking my world?

Actually, I found all of those websites, but only Violin d'Ingres seemed to list prices. Ledoyen's website isn't so much a website as it is just a home page... internet billboard?

[robyn]

I am going back and forth and back and forth on restaurants. And I think what it comes down to is - quite simply - what do you like to eat that will be in season when you are in Paris - and which restaurant(s) do the best job of it. Which is why I am somewhat conflicted about l'Arpege. I love spring and summer vegetables - and the lighter things - like fish - that go with them. But - to me - the fall and winter in Paris is game and other big meat flavor season. And I happen to like game (well - not all of it - I once had swan - and I didn't care for it at all). I am not sure l'Arpege is a great choice in game season - maybe it is - maybe it isn't - I don't know. I will be in Paris a little early in terms of truffle season - but you won't. So - if you like truffles - the issue is what restaurant is your best bet for truffles. I also like cheese and dessert courses - and l'Arpege seems to be a bit weak in those categories. As for fresh spring/summer vegetables - in December you'll have to go to Argentina or the like to find them. Robyn

[Ptipois]

I am not sure l'Arpege is a great choice in game season - maybe it is - maybe it isn't - I don't know.

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L'Arpège is a great choice for game even out of the game season.

[ulterior epicure]

You know, my interest in L'Arpege was waning until this came up.

I am a sucker for fine cheese.  This almost seals the deal.

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Why was your interest waning? Frankly - I am just very confused. I hear a lot about a few high end restaurants. But almost nothing about others. E.g., it's very hard to find any mention of Pre Catelan anywhere (although it was on Gridskipper earlier this year). Robyn

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Coincidentally, because Pre Catalan caught my fancy. Together with L'Astrance, Le Meurice, and Le Bristol, it was the one restaurant that I regret having missed on my last trip to Paris.

I just don't think I'm a L'Arpege type of guy. I have an inkling of what I'm basing that off of, but, obviously because I've never been, I'm loathe to attempt articulating it here.

Edited August 25, 2008 by ulterior epicure (log)

[fresh_a]

Right, google only has 21,000 hits on the Pre Catelan......

[robert40]

You know, my interest in L'Arpege was waning until this came up.

I am a sucker for fine cheese.  This almost seals the deal.

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Why was your interest waning? Frankly - I am just very confused. I hear a lot about a few high end restaurants. But almost nothing about others. E.g., it's very hard to find any mention of Pre Catelan anywhere (although it was on Gridskipper earlier this year). Robyn

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Coincidentally, because Pre Catalan caught my fancy. Together with L'Astrance, Le Meurice, and Le Bristol, it was the one restaurant that I regret having missed on my last trip to Paris.

I just don't think I'm a L'Arpege type of guy. I have an inkling of what I'm basing that off of, but, obviously because I've never been, I'm loathe to attempt articulating it here.

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Yes, but you can't leave your fan's hanging who are looking forward to your Paris reports. Articulate away.

[robyn]

I just don't think I'm a L'Arpege type of guy.  I have an inkling of what I'm basing that off of, but, obviously because I've never been, I'm loathe to attempt articulating it here.

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I know what you mean - not specifically in terms of L'Arpege - but in terms of getting feelings about what you personally will tend to like or dislike. I get gut feelings when I read about certain restaurants - whether or not I'll like them (and whether or not my husband will like them - we have somewhat different tastes).

And we're talking about a very limited number of restaurants at the very high end in Paris - only 9 Michelin 3 stars. Only 5 Gayot 18/20 (no 19's or 20's). And only 3 that appear on both lists. So there is obviously a lot of room for people to disagree about particular places (not only on the high end - but in other parts of the dining spectrum). In the end - I'll probably go with my gut feelings - and hope they're correct.

BTW - best cheese course I have had recently was at Dieter Muller in Germany. And I am especially interested in raw cheeses since I can no longer buy them in the US. Robyn

[robyn]

Right, google only has 21,000 hits on the Pre Catelan......

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Well there is also a restaurant with that name in Rio - and several hotels with that name as well. But when it comes to finding stuff about meals at the place - on chatboards - from bloggers - etc. - about all I've been able to find is a negative piece on Gastroville. Maybe you've found things I haven't been able to find?

There is also very little written about Ledoyen (although there is a recent piece about it on one blog).

My point isn't to say anything good or bad about a place - only that some places get a lot more written about them than others. Robyn

P.S. Found a couple of other blog entries about Ledoyen.

Edited August 25, 2008 by robyn (log)

[ulterior epicure]

Yes, but you can't leave your fan's hanging who are looking forward to your Paris reports. Articulate away.

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Thanks for your vote of confidence!

Be sure, there will be reports. You (and I) just might not know exactly under which threads they'll be posted.