BLT Market

[Fat Guy]

We received a news release today saying that the long-awaited BLT Market, Laurent Tourondel's restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton hotel on Central Park South, is opening this week. BLT Market is the latest venture from the seemingly unstoppable BLT Restaurant Group, which is owned by partners Jimmy Haber, Laurent Tourondel and Keith Treyball, and operates the restaurants BLT Steak (in New York City, Washington, DC, and San Juan, Puerto Rico, with locations planned for the coming year in Los Angeles, White Plains, Dallas and Miami); BLT Fish, BLT Prime and BLT Burger (all in New York City). Some of the details:

Acclaimed chef and restaurateur Laurent Tourondel opens BLT Market (1430 Avenue of the Americas at Central Park South, 212-521-6125) in The Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park on Thursday, August 16.  BLT Market opens its doors for dinner only, serving a preview menu at a discount of 10% on food.  The restaurant will serve breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner at regular menu prices beginning September 10.

BLT Market focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients available in farmers’ markets, paying particular attention to unusual, wild and locally grown items. The menu rotates monthly, and blackboard specials are updated weekly with first-of-the-season produce.  Impeccably fresh produce is served only at its peak; seasonal fish, meat and cheese are sourced from local producers.

Designed by Michael Bagley (BLT Steak, BLT Fish and BLT Prime), BLT Market features a palette in shades of coffee and cream.  To enliven this subtle canvas, Tourondel commissioned artist Marilyn Sommer to create a series of vibrant paintings depicting fruit and vegetables.  Portraits of BLT Market’s purveyors captured by photographer Quentin Bacon are displayed throughout the restaurant. Other design accents include fluted walls, reclaimed wood furniture and wooden cupboards filled with artisanal products.

Dinner served daily, 5:30 pm - 10:30 pm. BEGINNING SEPTEMBER 10: Lunch served Monday - Saturday, 11:30 am - 2:00 pm.  Breakfast served daily, 7:00 am - 11:00 am.  Brunch served Sunday, 11:30 am - 2:00 pm.  For reservations, please call 212-521-6125.

Website: http://www.bltmarket.com

[DutchMuse]

Well, I hate to hear this. At least Wolfgang Puck has a flagship restauant with some integrity left (the original Spago; Chinois on Main)...but this has gotten ridiculous.

When he was at Cello, Tourondel produced excellent food. The original BLT Steak was good. But the spin-offs are almost a joke....I've been to BLT Prime a number of times and it is quite average but certainly not worth the tarrif. A BLT Fish dinner was embarassingly bad (the salmon steak tasted and looked as if I had cooked it at home from something frozen), and BLT Burger can't even come close to Shake Shack.

Sooner or later, this will come back to bite him. And its a shame.

Edited August 13, 2007 by DutchMuse (log)

[oakapple]

Well, I hate to hear this. At least Wolfgang Puck has a flagship restauant with some integrity left (the original Spago; Chinois on Main)...but this has gotten ridiculous.

←

I've been to the BLT's (Steak/Prime/Fish) about 8 times between them. My experiences have been positive for about 75% of those visits. Obviously it's a chain, and Tourondel himself probably hasn't cooked a meal in about two years. But L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon is a chain too, and some pretty damned good things come out of his kitchens.

[docsconz]

They certainly are covering their bases with their various trendy niche restaurants. I like the fact that they are opening with discounted tariffs at this one.

[DutchMuse]

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon is a chain too, and some pretty damned good things come out of his kitchens.

←

Yes, but l'Atelier isn't in every city around you with more on the way. Quality control can be maintained with a few places but....how many cities is BLT in or on the way? 10? More?

I dare say, at l'Atelier, you'll have a fine meal more than 75% of the time. 25% "failure rate" (insert your own adjective there) isn't very good, at those prices IMHO.

[Fat Guy]

BLT Steak is in three cities, with four more on the way, for a total of seven in the foreseeable future. He also has the three other restaurants in New York. It's not an outrageous number. It's a similar size restaurant group to Tom Colicchio's Craft group, actually a little smaller if you count the nine 'wichcraft locations. It's definitely possible to do quality at that group size, or even at a larger size (Ducasse has 21 restaurants, give or take).

[Norm357]

'wichcraft locations.

What does this mean?

[xyz123]

Sooner or later, this will come back to bite him.  And its a shame.

←

I am happy for him that he is able to make as much $$$$$$$ as possible

[Fat Guy]

'wichcraft locations.

What does this mean?

←

'wichcraft is Tom Colicchio's chain of sandwich shops -- part of the Craft restaurant group.

[Norm357]

'wichcraft locations.

What does this mean?

←

'wichcraft is Tom Colicchio's chain of sandwich shops -- part of the Craft restaurant group.

←

Thank you.

[DutchMuse]

I think he can maintain reasonable quality for the crowds; my angst has to do with acknowledging his actual ability rather than his apparent settling for chain like high end places....The Sizzler for the upper middle class and well to do.

As someone here said, they've had a successful experience 75% of the time. And that's probably good enough for most people.

Its telling, though, that in another contemporary thread, someone posted who is visiting NY where to go for steak, and they included BLT Prime and Craftsteak among their 4 choices. I don't think one poster who replied suggested either Craftsteak or BLT Prime. That does say something.

Nevertheless, if his agenda, having sold his name to Jimmy Haber and the BLT Corp, is to franchise the name as much as possible, more power to him. Its just a long way from the creativity he displayed as a top Chef.

Edited August 14, 2007 by DutchMuse (log)

[phaelon56]

It's definitely possible to do quality at that group size, or even at a larger size (Ducasse has 21 restaurants, give or take).

←

I accept that quality can be delivered at that group size - if we're defining quality as the sourced materials used to prepare the food. But what of the

fine meal more than 75% of the time. 25% "failure rate"

comment?

I'm guessing that comment refers to consistency - a quality I look for even in modest priced restaurants. Can't speak for others but if I visited a restaurant regularly and 1 out of 4 meals was not up to their usual standards I would stop visiting - regardless of price. And at the higher end of the price range they'd get one shot not four.

[oakapple]

I think he can maintain reasonable quality for the crowds; my angst has to do with acknowledging his actual ability rather than his apparent settling for chain like high end places....The Sizzler for the upper middle class and well to do.

Well, I agree with that part. It's a pity to see a chef with his talent spending more time in the boardroom than in the kitchen. But I have to think that the way Cello was just yanked away from him must have had something to do with that. And many very successful chefs (Vongerichten, Colicchio) have created large empires while still maintaining a very high quality.

As someone here said, they've had a successful experience 75% of the time. And that's probably good enough for most people.

Well, I was responding to the suggestion that his restaurants are awful. When you consider that even Per Se and Le Bernardin don't hit a home run 100% of the time, the BLT franchise is doing pretty good at 75%. It's high enough that the BLT's are on my return-to list...and not many restaurants manage that.

Its telling, though, that in another contemporary thread, someone posted who is visiting NY where to go for steak, and they included BLT Prime and Craftsteak among their 4 choices. I don't think one poster who replied suggested either Craftsteak or BLT Prime. That does say something.

←

The original poster stipulated that he wanted porterhouse, mashed potatoes, dessert, and quiet conversation; and didn't care much about wine. With those stipulations, I wouldn't recommend a BLT restaurant either.

[Nathan]

I think he can maintain reasonable quality for the crowds; my angst has to do with acknowledging his actual ability rather than his apparent settling for chain like high end places....The Sizzler for the upper middle class and well to do.

Well, I agree with that part. It's a pity to see a chef with his talent spending more time in the boardroom than in the kitchen. But I have to think that the way Cello was just yanked away from him must have had something to do with that. And many very successful chefs (Vongerichten, Colicchio) have created large empires while still maintaining a very high quality.

As someone here said, they've had a successful experience 75% of the time. And that's probably good enough for most people.

Well, I was responding to the suggestion that his restaurants are awful. When you consider that even Per Se and Le Bernardin don't hit a home run 100% of the time, the BLT franchise is doing pretty good at 75%. It's high enough that the BLT's are on my return-to list...and not many restaurants manage that.

Its telling, though, that in another contemporary thread, someone posted who is visiting NY where to go for steak, and they included BLT Prime and Craftsteak among their 4 choices. I don't think one poster who replied suggested either Craftsteak or BLT Prime. That does say something.

←

The original poster stipulated that he wanted porterhouse, mashed potatoes, dessert, and quiet conversation; and didn't care much about wine. With those stipulations, I wouldn't recommend a BLT restaurant either.

←

yup. I'd suggest Craftsteak in many contexts....any where sides were as or more important than the steaks. Craftsteak has identical appetizers and sides to Craft (literally...compare the menus)....its just that the steaks are only ok. quality control and sourcing on everything else is superb.

[DutchMuse]

yup. I'd suggest Craftsteak in many contexts....any where sides were as or more important than the steaks. Craftsteak has identical appetizers and sides to Craft (literally...compare the menus)....its just that the steaks are only ok. quality control and sourcing on everything else is superb.

←

Agreed. But who goes to a steakhouse more for the sides than the steak?

[oakapple]

Agreed. But who goes to a steakhouse more for the sides than the steak?

←

The steak at BLT Steak/Prime is basically comparable to what the better steakhouses in town are getting, they age it properly, and they know how to use a broiler. It's not rocket science. On top of that, they have a more interesting variety of appetizers and side dishes. However, you do pay a slight premium over NYC's already-expensive steakhouse prices. I hope that clarifies it.

[chefboy24]

so who's going tonight

[markk]

Has anybody been? I have a friend coming to town who's dying for us to go here, and I guess I can't imagine why? Anybody with any experiences to report? Thanks.

[Sneakeater]

It's OK. I wouldn't rush to go (back) there. But if forced, I wouldn't terribly regret it.

[oakapple]

I'm a fan, but obviously it depends what you're comparing it to.

[Sneakeater]

I think it's hard for BLT Market to get a fair shake. Everybody's so suspicious of chefs who expand their holdings as rapidly as LT has, that they sort of dismiss this new BLT venture -- the first one to open in New York since LT reached the tipping point -- out of hand. Frank Bruni certainly did. As unexciting as I found it, it's hard for me to think that BLT Market doesn't deserve a full NYT review.

Edited February 11, 2008 by Sneakeater (log)

[Fat Guy]

I plead guilty to not giving it a fair shake. I understand the whole market schtick, but when it comes down to the actual food being served I have to wonder: what does BLT Market offer that isn't duplicative of or similar to what's served at the other BLTs in the chain? That's the question that would determine whether a full review is warranted. What's the answer?

[oakapple]

Everybody's so suspicious of chefs who expand their holdings as rapidly as LT has, that they sort of dismiss this new BLT venture -- the first one to open in New York since LT reached the tipping point -- out of hand.  Frank Bruni certainly did.

←

Actually, Bruni thought that two BLT's ago—with BLT Prime.

I plead guilty to not giving it a fair shake. I understand the whole market schtick, but when it comes down to the actual food being served I have to wonder: what does BLT Market offer that isn't duplicative of or similar to what's served at the other BLTs in the chain? That's the question that would determine whether a full review is warranted. What's the answer?

←

The menus are on the websites (www.BLT______.com). I don't really see much similarity between them, except that BLT Prime is pretty close to BLT Steak.

[Sneakeater]

I agree that BLT Market turns one off because it seems so blatantly to be using the "market ingredients" concept as a gimmick.

But oakapple is surely right that the menu doesn't at all resemble BLT Steak, BLT Prime, BLT Fish, or BLT Burger.

I think the better question is: what does BLT Market provide that other already existant NYC restaurants don't?

[oakapple]

I agree that BLT Market turns one off because it seems so blatantly to be using the "market ingredients" concept as a gimmick.

...snip...

I think the better question is:  what does BLT Market provide that other already existant NYC restaurants don't?

←

I don't think the BLT Market concept is any more of a gimmick than any of the other restaurants in town that wear the same concept on their sleeve. If anyone else opened a high-profile new restaurant in that genre, Bruni would review it. So I think it's wrong to say, "Well, it's just another BLT." Despite the shared letters, it's a departure for Tourondel, even though others obviously have opened similar places.

Edited February 11, 2008 by oakapple (log)