Le Bristol and other great Paris restaurants

[msh]

Hello,

I'm planning a trip to Paris this October and I'm looking for a special occasion restaurant-- although one that won't break the bank completely (i.e., something a little less than Guy Savoy, Alain Ducasse, etc.). I've heard very good things about Le Bristol-- has anyone eaten there? Has anyone had their seasonal prix fixe menu?

Many thanks,

Matt

[Bux]

I have not eaten at the Bristol, but I have eaten at the little neighborhood restaurant that Eric Frechon owned and in which he cooked before coming to the Bristol. Assuming Frechon has the command of his Bristol kitchen in hand as well as he controlled his tiny kitchen at his earlier restaurant, I have no doubt you'll eat superbly well there. I have also loved the tasting menu at Carre des Feulliants, but have not been there in many years. Both of those would be high up on my own list for a two star meal in Paris.

[pirate]

I had lunch at Le Bristol last November. The prix fixe was completely uninteresting and I ordered a la carte. Started with a dish of thinly sliced scallops interleaved with black truffles. The truffles did nothing for the dish except raise its cost. Much better was a similar dish at La Luna (0ne Michelin rosette) where it was served with fresh herring roe. Plat was duck breast which was cooked properly but lacked flavor. When the waiter inquired, I mentioned it. The waiter returned and reported that the chef said it was difficult to get really good duck. An honest reply. I was not impressed and did not return to Le Bristol on a later Paris trip.

[laura]

I too ate at Eric Frechon's restaurant near Buttes Chaumont section of Paris and was

extremely happy with the meal and the atmosphere and price; how this translates to a more upscale and ambitious setting , I don't know, because I haven't eaten there.

[JJS]

I have been to the Bristol twice in the last few months - both times with people who appreciate good food - and have thoroughly enjoyed it both times. The rooms and staff are delightful - particularly the oval winter room with its tapestry. The food is very good, I also ate at Guy Savoy, Ledoyen, Michel Rostang on these particular trips, and the Bristol compared very favourbaly with all of these. Guy Savoy was probably a class above, but otherwise the Bristol holds it own with all of these and in many ways I felt it was more consistent and enjoyable. The cheese course is the main weakness - although I also find Rostang poor on this front. Everything else is extremely good however and one of my companions who rarely raves about anything - declared the turbot at the Bristol the best ever - which is high praise indeed. If you go to the Bristol you will not be dissapointed - the whole experience is wonderfully elegant and thoroughly enchanting.

[hollywood]

If you like seafood and don't want to break the bank, I'd try Taira for French-Japanese fusion. If you can confer with the chef by phone in advance, he should be able to come up with a really special meal. Address and numbers in most guides.

[tony h]

I ate at Le Bristol & George V last September (both 2 stars).

Le Bristol was memorable, interesting & delicious.

I found it v expensive (I wasn't aware that it offered a lunch menu).

Service was faultless & indulgent - I was there on my own and they kept bringing me little extras from the kitchen. I'd happily go back anytime.

George V was more elegant but they inisted I put on one of their jackets (3 sizes too big). The food wasn't in the same league (on that day, anyway). The waiter was a little too pushy & more or less told me what I was going to eat. It was above average but not special & I expect a little more for the price.

[JJS]

I must agree with blind lemon that the Bristol is pretty expensive. But then I have been to nearly all the two-stars in Paris and none of them are much cheaper. You can save money by opting for cheaper wine and skipping an aperitif, but I think worrying about the cost ruins the meal a little. But this is to digress. I merely wanted to concur with higgins' comment on the cost of the Bristol although I did find it slightly cheaper than Michel Rostang, Guy Savoy or Ledoyen.

[Bux]

I must agree with blind lemon that the Bristol is pretty expensive. But then I have been to nearly all the two-stars in Paris and none of them are much cheaper.

Throughout France, the multistarred categories are reserved for dining rooms of comfort and food of finesse. In Paris this may be even more the case. A two star meal in Paris is unlikely to be inexpensive. Consider that both service and taxes are included in the price and that many, if not all, the two star restaurants in Paris might well be four stars in NYC, the prices are not so unreasonable.

Although Michelin warns diners not to confuse inexpensive one star restaurants with more expensive one star places, the same might be true of two star places, at least to some extent. Clearly at the upper ranges of luxury and finesse, there will be a point of diminishing return for all but the wealthiest diner. If one finds the food and service at the Bristol worthy of two stars, I suspect it will be considered a good value.

The least expensive two star restaurant in Paris seems to be Les Muses in the Hotel Scribe. Have any of our members eaten there? Does anyone have information besides Patrice?

[molto e]

I walked into lunch at the Bristol knowing that I about to experience the cuisine of a 2 star chef, but not knowing this was to be one of the best meals of my life. My first contact with the top notch talent Le Bristol has at every level was at the Maitre D post with the Directeur du Restaurant Raphael Courant. He immediately made one feel welcome [even if one did not know that jacket was required ] and he sized my jacket size up with his hands causing my group to laugh as he ordered one up for me on the phone. Raphael was great, welcoming us warmly and presenting Le Bristol to us in an exciting fashion. He had worked at the Hotel Crillon before landing at Le Bristol and he is the best host that I have ever encountered, in fact I do not recall a host making this great of an impression on me ever. The restaurant of Le Bristol has a Summer and Winter room, the Summer room has great views of the garden and offers indoor and outdoor seating.

The menu is divided up as follows: Chef Frechon's seasonal suggestions, ala carte, Summer flavors and dessert by pastry chef Gilles Marchal-seasonal fruits, "Grand Cru"chocolate and classics.

Raphael offered us an Apertif and out came the Champagne cart

The amuse

The amuse was great parmesan marshmallow, salmon, foie bite and I do not remember what was in the cone.

The bread selection was amazing

We choose to order a la cart as I had been dreaming of Bresse chicken for months.

Our starters:

Farm hen egg-soft boiled, green peas with chorizo, Indian cress flowers, roast sobrassada. Delicious

Macaronis with truffle-stuffed with artichoke and duck foie gras, gratinated with matured Parmesan cheese. This was amazing, why was mac and cheese not this good before?

Fog legs-pan fried with garlic and parsley, gnocchi Tandoori style and rocket leaves juice-great dish

Blue lobster-freshened green apple and white radish, aromas of coriander and honey. Look at the claw, perfectly cracked in half and topped with aspic, what craftsmanship!!!

Entrees:

Farmed "Bresse" hen for 2

cooked in a pig's bladder and "vin jaune", ravioli stuffed with truffles

Then after the legs have been finished in the kitchen so the white meat is not overcooked they are presented.

Traditional farm house bacon

grilled over a wood fire, roast charlotte potatoes, wild herb salad, mustard seeds sauce

I missed a shot of the pork belly being presented on the grill tableside

This was amazing, though the salad looks simple it is perfectly dressed and the charlotte potatoes rock

"Challandais" duck breast

roast with spices, pineapple ravioli, grated mango and lime, souffleed potatoes

This was a Bresse pigeon that went by that was photo worthy served honey glazed with shredded macaroon biscuits, stewed onions and cumin

Say cheese:

Dessert Amuse:

"Raspberries and Strawberries"-a few creations to sample and discover

Crunchy praline and Criollo chocolate shortbread

coffee flavored ice cream and frothy caramel sauce

Hot souffle of pure Caribbean chocolate

ice cream with Chartreuse liquor, stewed morello cherries

Peach poached in verbena

crunchy meringe cakes, iced strawberry sorbet

A little something with your coffee perhaps[i was the only one that had a little space left]

This was one of the most memorable meals of my life. Le Bristol led by Chef Eric Frechon, Chef Franck Leroy, Pastry Chef Gilles Marchal and Directeur du Restaurant Raphael Courant provide an unforgettable experience.The next day we were treated to a cooking lesson by Chef Franck Leroy and a peek into the Kitchen of Chef Eric Frechon-soon to follow

[docsconz]

Incredible meal, Molto! I had poulet de Bresse while in Paris, but I doubt it was as good as the one you had. I actually bought some at the Bastille Market and cooked them for dinner in our apartment for my family and a couple of friends. Despite being in an unknown kitchen, I fortunately did not ruin them.

[Brad Trent]

My God! You have just made me the happiest idiot on the board today...we are less than three weeks away from a dinner at the Bristol and your post has my mouth watering! I was expecting a nice meal, but nothing like what you have shown us! Thanks for the post.

BT

[battleofthebulge]

Oh My. Oh My. Oh my goodness.

From the champagne cart onwards, it just looks .. well, superb doesn't really do it justice!!

Am starting a 'Meal at the Bristol' saving account right now!

Sarah

[battleofthebulge]

Duh - I just read your subtitle. I can't believe this is only 2 star? We ate at Taillevent (3 star) last year and I'm certain the meal you've shown us is at least as good.

Sarah

[Felice]

Am starting a 'Meal at the Bristol' saving account right now!

Sarah

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I think I'm going to start my "Meal at the Bristol" savings account too...

What amazing photos, thank you Molto

[molto e]

Here are some shots of Le Bristol kitchen of Michelin 2 star Chef Eric Frechon[give him his 3 star already],the kitchen is staffed by a revolving crew of 80. The other pictures are a demonstration of Pommes Souffles by Chef Franck Leroy

Edited September 8, 2005 by bleudauvergne (log)

[MobyP]

Thanks for the pics, Molto.

[bleudauvergne]

Good Lord, Molto, that looked like a fabulous meal.

What's that cooking sous vide?

[docsconz]

What's that cooking sous vide?

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I was going to ask the same question.

Your trip reminds me of the one my wife and I took to Spain last year with the CIA - plenty of behind the scenes action.

[MobyP]

Good Lord, Molto, that looked like a fabulous meal. 

What's that cooking sous vide?

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My money's on sweetbreads.

[bleudauvergne]

One more question, do I see dry ice at use in the presentation of the poulet de Bresse and the dessert?

[molto e]

One more question, do I see dry ice at use in the presentation of the poulet de Bresse and the dessert?

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That is Bresse chicken being cooked sous-vide. I do not think that they used dry ice while the chicken was being served, because I did not see it. That is dry ice with the dessert amuse of peach sorbet with the macaroons.

I ate at Gagnaire and Le Cinq while I was in Paris and though the service was good at both, Frechon and Le Bristol blew them out of the water.

Molto E

Edited September 9, 2005 by molto e (log)

[robert40]

Absolutely wonderful photos and report.

I can sense your enthusiasm coming through in your report and it was a joy to read.

[molto e]

Absolutely wonderful photos and report.

I can sense your enthusiasm coming through in your report and it was a joy to read.

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Thank you, I only wish I could have eaten there one more time before I left.

Molto E

[John Talbott]

Well, molto, today's France Soir agrees with you; apparently having been leaked info that Frechon and Dutournier - Carre des Feuillants - will be elevated to three stars/macarons by the Michelin.