A Family Trip to Peru

[Sarabeth]

I won't be able to continue my story until the middle/end of next week as I'll be busy eating.

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Oh no, oh no! I feel like I have to put down a really good book, and I don't want to! Hopefully (selfishly) there will be more entries before next Friday when I head to Peru myself.

Have a fun week eating!

[Sneakeater]

Those islands are like something out of Borges.

It's just amazing how the real world can live up to fantasy.

What a great trip!

[Pontormo]

Take note, Pontormo - another variety of potato!

For me? You are so kind, thank you, they're gorgeous!

While I discovered the purple Peruvian blues do not mash well, I love them roasted and they're so dramatic. I was wondering what other colors just haven't made it up north.

(Godito: thanks for identifying them! Care to tell us what the tiny cactusy vegetable is upthread?)

And, yes, the islands are truly otherwordly. Reminds me of the Japanese concept of Floating Island even though the significance is utterly different.

Edited March 26, 2007 by Pontormo (log)

[docsconz]

(Pig) intestines are used in traditional (French) recipes for sausage, not just as casings but also chopped up and added to the belly meat to make andouille and andouilletes. A Peruvian variation on this sounds delicious, to me.

Maybe (if you didn't see sausage around too much) most sausage-making is done at home so that the family can adjust the seasonings to their particular tastes?

P.S. Found this, this morning on a South American travel site which it seems impossible to link to:

Chinchulines are sheep and beef intestines grilled over open fires and have a crunchy texture

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Thanks for adding this to your post! It actually sounds pretty good. I like crunch!

[docsconz]

Isla Taquile

Sorry for the delay!

After we left the fascinating Uros Islands we ventured out of the totora reeds and the bay of Puno into the main body of the lake. On the way we passed a number of fisherman returning to shore from a night or early morning fishing on the lake. They used to fish from tortora reed boats, but over the last 20-30 years they converted to wooden boats. The main catch nowadays are trout and kingfish, both introduced species. The traditional native species though still fished are reduced in numbers.

Fisherman returning home.

Taquile is a largish island that subsists mostly on what they fish and farm as well as some trading with the mainland. The people are known for their weaving and tourism provides a modest boost to the local economy. Recently the islanders have undertaken a process to boost tourism by hosting tourists in special homes. We would do that for a night, understanding and figuring that it would be a good way to be exposed to the people and their culture. Well exposed we were, but not quite in the way that we expected.

Being that we arrived during Carnaval, the people were in a particularly celebratory mood so much so that the people who were supposed to host us were so entranced by their participation in the Carnaval that they forgot we were coming and had absolutely nothing prepared for us!

Our guide managed to find us alternate lodgings and after quite a hike at altitude, lunch.

Taquile carnaval revelers. The festivities involved a lot of dancing, a continuous song and plenty of chicha. Many of the partiers drank until they passed out.

We managed our way through the revelers to find a place where we could have lunch.

The lunch was simple, but very good and satisfying.

Quinoa soup.

Grilled kingfish, fried potatoes and rice. The fish was absolutely delicious. The fries were excellent as well.

The restaurant owner checking in from the festivities.

On our way back we spent some time in the town center and had a vantage point of the small market.

...and views of surrounding fields.

We arranged to have dinner back at our lodging from the same people as provided lunch. BTW, our lodging was quite simple without electricity or heat. There was a bathroom and running water outside.

Dinner by candlelight consisted of a cold egg tortilla with tomatoes and vegetables and coca tea. I wasn't quite as satisfied as I was at lunch.

After a night bundled up under the warm blankets, we awoke to a beautiful Taquile sunrise

After a breakfast of hardboiled eggs and cereal we boarded our boat to head back to the mainland.

[docsconz]

Lake Titicaca Shore and Nearby

That morning on the way from Taquile back to the Peruvian mainland our boat ran through an impressive hailstorm.

Fortunately for us, it didn't last and as we arrived on shore the weather cleared. We re-met our driver and van and got on the road for a scenic drive through the Carnaval celebrating countryside.

Dextrous cattle.

Woman herding sheep and pigs.

A recent advance is not having to go all the way down to the lake for water.

Fishing boat along the shore.

We wound our way through a few towns to a nice spot overlooking the lake at about 14,000 feet elevation where we stopped for a picnic lunch. The view was marvelous and I would like to say that the lunch was as well, but I would be lying. It was a box lunch from the hotel in Puno - the same hotel at which I did not enjoy dinner two nights before. Why should this have been different?

[docsconz]

Huatta Market

On our way from Lake Titicaca to the Juliaca Airport we amde a few unscheduled but interesting stops. One was at an active food market at a small town called Huatta. We spent a few minutes checking out this fascinating spot.

Various kinds of potatoes.

Various types of dried corn amongst other things

Aji amarillo and other chilies.

Various spices - whole and ground.

Coca leaves.

Baskets of Bread.

General market view.

Prickly pears.

Various fruit.

Cow's milk cheeses. These cheeses were gathered along with others from the community for shipping elsewhere as an element of trade. After gathering the cheeses were loaded onto a truck for transport.

[djyee100]

Those cheeses! Doc, are they just curds wrapped in reeds? No cloth wrapping, or anything like that?

Again, thanks for the wonderful photoessay.

[docsconz]

Those cheeses! Doc, are they just curds wrapped in reeds? No cloth wrapping, or anything like that?

Again, thanks for the wonderful photoessay. 

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Thank you. You got it. That is exactly what they are.

[djyee100]

Those cheeses! Doc, are they just curds wrapped in reeds? No cloth wrapping, or anything like that?

Again, thanks for the wonderful photoessay. 

Thank you. You got it. That is exactly what they are.

Those pictures of cheeses remind me how simple the origin of cheesemaking really is. You have an excess of milk, you curdle it, drain it, then you pack it so it drains and dries some more. Ta-da!

I recently read Homer's Odyssey in a continuing ed seminar. The Odyssey dates to 800-700 B.C. Here's the description of cheesemaking in the poem: "(the Cyclops) thickened his milk, then, into curds and whey, sieved out the curds to drip in withy baskets" (Book 9, lines 247-249). Withy baskets are willow reed baskets. Your pictures immediately brought these lines to mind.

Edited April 3, 2007 by djyee100 (log)

[docsconz]

I forgot this one from the Huatta market

I'm not sure if these were big leeks or more likely tortora reeds.

[snowangel]

Can you tell me more about the quinoa soup?

[docsconz]

Can you tell me more about the quinoa soup?

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Other than that it was good, I'm afraid that I can't tell you too much about it right now due to an increasingly sketchy memory. I believe the base may have been chicken stock, but at this point I wouldn't swear to it. The quinoa was cooked in it much like barley is within certain soups.

[Shaya]

Doc, this is a fabulous report, thanks so much for putting so much energy into it. This is a trip of a lifetime for your kids, and your family as a whole. You inspire me to strive for similar adventures as my boys get older.

[docsconz]

Juliaca

We were heading back to Juliaca to catch our flight back to Cusco as the end of our trip was approaching. Given that we didn't have showers on Taquile and we were supposed to have dinner that night at Huaca Pucllana in Lima, we planned on arriving in Juliaca early to find someplace to shower before our flight. As it was we'd be pushing getting to Huaca Pucllana on time for our reservation.

However, as we arrived in Juliaca we realized that a major event was going on. Given that it was carnaval, there was a big parade going on in the center of town. This parade was very different to the one we followed on Taquile. This was a several mile stretch of young Carnaval dancing groups. The streets were lined with people and food vendors, all set up to watch the gyrating bodies wiggle past. Of course, being Carnaval in peru, there were plenty of kids with water buckets and foam spray cans dousing anyone they could!

Tired, hot, but exuberant dancers. It was quite warm out and I don't think these people minded getting splashed with water and foam now and again as well as pounding down various beverages. Unlike the parade on Taquile, I did not have the sense that alcohol played a prominent role with these dancers/musicians.

Selling churros amongst the crowd.

Popcorn and potato chips

More colorful dancers working up a thirst and an appetite.

Selling empanadas. I do not know what they were filled with.

Frying eggs with a portable fry station.

Cooking anticuchos. I don't know if these were beef hearts or some other meat.

The churro stand

The making and eating of Churros. Piping hot, they were delicious and addictive. We went back for seconds and thirds.

A few more images of festive dancers.

Needless to say, this event grabbed our attention and we didn't get our showers. We did make our flight though it was running a bit late. What we didn't realize is that we would have a surprise in store for us once we got to Lima.

[docsconz]

Doc, this is a fabulous report, thanks so much for putting so much energy into it.  This is a trip of a lifetime for your kids, and your family as a whole.  You inspire me to strive for similar adventures as my boys get older.

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Thank you Shaya. I love traveling, but I love it even more when I can do it with my family. As my two eldest sons are at an age getting close to College, i don't know how many more trips like this we will be able to do both financially and opportunistically. I strongly urge you to travel with your children if you can afford the time and money. I have also had the pleasure of doing one-on-one trips with my two eldest sons and hope to be able to do it with my youngest in the future. Those are particularly special.

[Pan]

I love all the pictures of the Carnaval costumes!

What's manjar blanco, with which the churros were filled?

About family trips, my brother and parents and I have done one to Italy, one to France, one to Malaysia (we were partly together and partly on our own on that trip), and one to China in the last 9 years, while all of us were adults and done with our education, so it IS possible.

[godito]

I love all the pictures of the Carnaval costumes!

What's manjar blanco, with which the churros were filled?

About family trips, my brother and parents and I have done one to Italy, one to France, one to Malaysia (we were partly together and partly on our own on that trip), and one to China in the last 9 years, while all of us were adults and done with our education, so it IS possible.

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Manjar Blanco is, pretty much, dulce de leche made the traditional way. Manjar is another name for dulce de leche, and blanco because it's whiter than regular dulce de leche. Most times, some sipices (like vanilla or clove) are added in the cooking process.

Then again, this is how it's made in Bolivia and Ecuador. I'm assuming it's the same in Peru...

[docsconz]

When we arrived in Lima we were already late, but received some interesting news from our guide about our reservation at Huaca Pucllana. When we realized that we would be later than anticipated getting in to Lima, we asked our guides to see if they could push back the time for our reservation at the restaurant. Upon our arrival, our guide informed us that we couldn't dine at HP that night as planned as the restaurant was closed for a wedding party! I was dumbfounded. In addition we were planning to dine the following night - the night of our departure for home - at Astrid y Gaston, but based upon their opening time and the time we would need to be picked up for transport to the airport we would only have an hour at that restaurant! I decided that that would not be sufficient time to do the restaurant justice so we set about thinking of alternate plans. We tried to do A&G that night, but the only reservation we could get at that point was very late and we were already exhausted.

Ultimately, we made arrangements for dinner at Wa Lok in Miraflores. Though not the original Wa Lok, it was a reasonable alternative and a chance to try a highly regarded Lima chifa. We ordered a number of dishes including scallops, won-ton soup, alpaca, pork and a few others. The waiter warned us that it would be too much food and it was. While not life-changing it was good and satisfying. The service was particularly good and friendly too. I do not have any good pictures to post though.

As for the next day, we had planned on eating at a cevicheria, but as I was the only one that really wanted to have ceviche, we decided to forgive Huaca Pucllana and have lunch there instead. I'm glad we did. A detailed report is upcoming.

[docsconz]

Lima- Huaca Pucllana

When I first heard the news that Huaca Pucllana was closed for a wedding party the night we were supposed to have a reservation, I was stunned and then I was angry. How could that happen? It wasn't the first time that something like that had happened to me. I was in Venice with my son and believed that I had a reservation for a restaurant there only to discover when we arrived at the restaurant that it was closed and the staff were all attending an event in NYC!

I was tempted to write Huaca Pucllana off and if we were able to do Astrid y Gaston, I probably would have. I really wanted to go to a Lima cevicheria and Canta Rana came highly recommended, but I was the only one who was really dying for ceviche and I still really wanted to go to Huaca Pucllana. As we would be leaving for home later that evening we did not have time for both. I'm glad that we did as it was by far the best meal of our trip and a superb meal by any account.

After a morning tour of the central historical area including the Cathedral, nearby catacombs and the changing of the guards at the Presidential palace our guide and driver left us off at Huaca Pucllana in Miraflores, located on the grounds of a major archaeological site of the same name. We arrived shortly before their scheduled opening, but we were seated on the terrace outside at a table in the bar area where we were served drinks and given menus to peruse.

Coca Sour A Pisco sour made with coca, this was by far the tastiest version of the drink I had all trip.

After a short wait we were seated at a comfortable table in the terrace dining area and placed our order.

Tokapu A menu option of any four appetizers. We chose...

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Causita Pucllana, mashed yellow potatoes stuffed with tomato and avocado topped with hot shrimp ceviche. We could not pass up another opportunity for causas, a great example of haute comfort food if there ever was one. This was no exception - a great dish.

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Crab Claws stuffed with shrimp in a lemon and Chinese pepper sauce I have had and loved the classic shrimp stuffed crab claws at many a dim sum place, but this was the best version of this dish that I have ever had. It was possibly my very favorite dish of the entire trip. The claws were hot, crisp and not in the least bit greasy. The dipping sauce provided a great citrus-spice component without being overtly sweet. The shrimp and crab flavors shone brilliantly.

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Skewered beef hearts, marinated with dry peppers, served with fried corn and potatoes I finally had the chance to try anticuchos and they were worth the wait with nice beefy flavor. The corn was outstanding as well and more along the lines of what my wife had remembered from her earlier visit to Peru.

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Deep Fried Chicken, sauteed in a butter and Pisco Sauce given all the interesting and unusual appetizers on the menu this was not my choice, though it was, in fact, quite delicious. The chicken was moist and flavorful.

There was so much to choose from on this menu and I wanted it all, but I needed to be realistic.

Grilled Beef Tenderloin with Pepper Sauce and mushrooms No. 3 son had become quite enamored with beef tenderloin on this trip. We couldn't deny him one more indulgence. Funny thing, looking at the menu, this dish was different than what was on the menu. It was supposed to have come with parmesan risotto instead of the mushrooms. My son has also learned to enjoy mushrooms so it worked out well even if I just caught the discrepancy now.

Argentinean beef steeak with potato and olluco gratin. No. 2 son is also a big fan of beef. That this beef was from Argentina made the choice difficult to pass up. It was delicious.

Corn breaded guinea pig with olluco stew and watercress salad No. 1 son was curious to try cuy in a top restaurant and this was his opportunity. He liked it better than the first time, but it was not something that he has developed a craving for.

Sauteed Shrimp and avocado salad with cocktail sauce, organic lettuce and balsamic reduction My wife wanted a lighter dish and this fit the bill for her.

Classic ceviche of sole, marinated in lemon and chili, served with corn and sweet potatoes I would not be denied my ceviche. This was superb and quite filling.

Desserts. Unfortunately, I don't remember the specific names of the desserts. While all very good, the best of the set was the bottom one, a chocolate napoleon with bitter orange. The volcano cake wasa excellent and ordered by my two youngest. It contained Peruvian chocolate. The top dessert was mango based and well balanced.

The view of the adobe temple ruins of Huaca Pucllana directly from the terrace of the restaurant.

From the terrace looking into the main room of the restaurant.

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The main room.

The restaurant entrance.

The patio before the entrance to the restaurant.

Restaurant greeters

Adobe walls of Huaca Pucllana.

[johnnyd]

Outstanding pictures, Doc. Fascinating glimpse of all things Peruvian. Thank you.

I would not be denied my ceviche.

Word.

[docsconz]

Hasta la Vista a Peru

After lunch at Huaca Pucllana we checked out of our hotel and walked to the Larcomar Shopping Center (As malls go this one was pretty cool) to pass the time until we had to head to the aiirport. We shopped, watched futbol on the beach, paragliders in the sky, the Pacific sunset and ate rotisserie chicken and fried potatoes at Pardo's Polleria.

Rotisserie chicken restaurants, like chifas, appear to be a national obsession in Peru and something our guide suggested we should try. We were mostly still full from lunch, but I at least, ate just to try the chicken and compare it to my memory model from a little place at the beach in Sitges, Catalunya in Spain where it was called Pollo a L'ast. This particular chain came highly recommended. The chicken was in fact quite good and juicy, but it did not supplant the pollo a l'ast from my memory. The fries were quite good as well.

This was the sunset on a fine family trip.

I will continue to check this topic periodically for awhile should anyone have any comments or questions. Thanks for reading!

[Domestic Goddess]

Doc, what a beautiful picture to end a beautiful travel blog. Sigh, all that food and all that sights. Can I be adopted in your family?

[gfron1]

I was lurking throughout your trip and just wanted to say thanks for a great report, and for sharing your vacation with us. It brought back great memories and reminded me how much I love Peru and its people.

[djyee100]

Here are some more produce and general market photos. There are a couple of items that I am unsure of and would appreciate input from anyone who can identify them.

These little vegetables are amongst those that I can't recall what they are even though I was told. The shape is quite funky and interesting. So far as I know I did not have the opportunity to try any of them.

I emailed my friend Maria, a Chinese-Peruvian chef, about these alien-looking vegetables, and today I received her reply:

"It's called caigua, a vegetable. The one in the photograph is a very young one. I'm familiar with the more matured form, which is about the size of a bell pepper. They are normally eaten stuffed with beef and bread, very tasty."

Doc, Maria told me she very much enjoyed your photos.