A Family Trip to Peru

[Caarina]

Cow's stomachs are highly appreciated in Ecuador in the dish, Guatita. The stomach is served with potatoes in a peanut sauce and is a classic dish of Ecuadorean cocina criolla.

All the innards are used throughout the Andes. I looked in several cookbooks I have from Ecuador and Peru, and I'm seeing recipes for grilled udder, crepes with brains etc. There's also a big appreciation for things like blood sausage etc for the same reasons. In the meat section of Maria Baez Kijac's book on South American Cuisine, there is a whole section on variety meats.

People call Mexico the land of no waste... I think the same applies to all of the Americas historically.

C

[docsconz]

MAP Cafe - Cusco

Situated in the same plaza as the Hotel Monasterio is the fascinating Museo de Arte PreColombiano or MAP. In addition to its superb displays, the Museum is home to the MAP Cafe, purported by some to be the finest restaurant in Cusco. My experience with Cusco restaurants is unfortunately too limited to be able to state this with any degree of certainty, however, I can certainly believe that it might be. At the very least it is a restaurant well worth visiting for its delicious Nuevo Andino cuisine. This cuisine is based around using native ingredients and even preparations in a contemporary style. (It is a fusion cuisine of traditional ingredients and modern style and technique.

Etched image on the door to the MAP Cafe.

The restaurant design is interesting, especially given its setting within a museum. It is a rectangular glass box that winds up itself as a display within the museum.

The Cafe from outside during the late afternoon.

Our reservation was for dinner. We were seated at a table in the corner of the restaurant with square bread rolls still warm from the oven and olive oil with Andean mint brought out promptly. This bread and others we had were excellent despite the difficulties of baking at altitude. The Andinos have had years to practice this art and that time, it is apparent, has not gone to waste.

A small salad of tomatoes, olives, queso fresco and herbs was brought as a very refreshing amuse. While we were generally careful to limit our intake of raw vegetables, we did not completely avoid them. This was one place where we left discretion behind and I'm happy to report that we did not suffer any ill consequences. Indeed throughout the trip no-one suffered anything that was not easily controlled with a little Imodium.

The restaurant in action.

The Menu. The prices are listed in nuevo soles, valued at a bit over 3 soles to the dollar.

There were many items listed on the menu that I would have liked to try, but alas we only had one opportunity to visit this restaurant. Causas, however, are a Peruvian classic that I had very much been looking to try. There are many variations on causas, which are basically mashed potatoes mixed with other flavorings and topped with additional elements. This menu offered a Trio of Causas as an appetizer, something I could not pass up.

Causa with freshwater shrimp, hardboiled egg and avocado.

Vegetarian fava bean "solterito" salad.

Smoked trout causa.

Causas may be the ultimate combination of comfort food and creative cookery. Each one was marvelous without being disharmonious with the others. I loved the presentation as well.

No.3 son enjoying his Lomito Saltado sandwich along with the very easy to eat fried potatoes that seemed to be everywhere. The quality of the fried potatoes also seemed to be excellent everywhere. This is a country that takes its potatoes very seriously.

Normally a very adventurous eater, No.1 son was in the mood for a sandwich and having recently been to Philadelphia on a college hunt decided to try the Peruvian version of a Philly cheese-steak - Bife a la Parilla, Tomate, Provolone Andino y Chimichurri. He enjoyed it, but still prefers a good example from Philadelphia.

No.2 son, aka The Tenderloin King, enjoying his Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Mushroom Sauce and Red Wine Quinotto. The dish was nicely done, but the quinotto in particular rocked. Quinotto as the name implies, is risotto-like prepared with quinoa instead of rice.

My wife's Tuna with Lima Bean Tacu Tacu and Rocoto Teriyaki Sauce

My Braised Lamb Shank with Roasted Tomatos and Stewed Green Barley. This dish had been specifically recommended by our initial guide in Lima and did not disappoint.

This malbec from Mendoza worked nicely with our meal.

Turron Amelcochado - Colorful and delicious.

Canutos de Quinoa y Lucuma - a great example of Nuevo Andino cuisine.

Fresas al Almibar de Maiz Morado Sauteed strawberries with blue corn sauce - this dessert was as good as any that we had on the entire trip.

Throughout the meal we were treated to lovely live Andean harp music.

Overall between breakfast at the Monasterio, lunch at Ceicheria Las Machitas and dinner at MAP Cafe this was our best overall day of eating even though the single best meal of the trip was yet to come.

Edited March 26, 2007 by docsconz (log)

[little ms foodie]

One photo that I did not get that I really wanted was of the woman selling live frogs. She was one of the few who refused when I asked if I could photograph her or her frogs even after I offered her a tip.

←

doc do you always ask permission when taking photos? I have found that I generally don't unless someone is looking at me rather particularly....and I always wonder about professional bloggers, if they ask or not.

[docsconz]

One photo that I did not get that I really wanted was of the woman selling live frogs. She was one of the few who refused when I asked if I could photograph her or her frogs even after I offered her a tip.

←

doc do you always ask permission when taking photos? I have found that I generally don't unless someone is looking at me rather particularly....and I always wonder about professional bloggers, if they ask or not.

←

I can't say that I always ask, but if I am in an in-your-face position I will definitely ask. If I am really hoping to catch a candid shot and I am not in a position of being rude (i.e.subtle), I don't necessarily ask. I will never, however, take a photo of someone who refuses to be in one such as the frog lady. Depending on the situation I will often show the subject the photo and/or offer a small tip (if warranted and not a situation to seem condescending). Most people are happy to oblige and while some expect a tip, most do not, though it is generally appreciated. Some obviously touristic situations require a tip.

[docsconz]

We had our final morning in Cusco free and spent it doing a little touring around the Plaza do Armas and a bit more shopping We spent more time shopping than we originally planned which left us very little time for lunch before we had to get to the airport to fly to the next leg of our journey.

We spied a little chifa just off the main square and decided that that would be a good opportunity to try one.. The restaurant El Dragone Dorado was located on the second floor of a corner building with views overlooking the Plaza de Armas. Being in a hurry we ordered rapidly and I took only a few photos. The food was quite good. While sharing some similarities with Chinese-American cooking, there differences that were apparent primarily in the ingredients with many Peruvian items featured prominently like alpaca and various Peruvian vegetables. One item that I particularly enjoyed were their chicharrones de pollo

These were served atop fried potato slices and paired with a savory lemony dipping sauce - delicious!

The wonton soup was very good as well though not particularly unusual. It had plenty of feathery-light chicken in it

Other dishes included curried alpaca, duck fried rice and garlic pork. All were good.

Our next stop would be the Altiplano and Lake Titicaca.

[Pontormo]

John: This entire report is just wonderful, but what really made me smile was the great fortune you had when getting in that particular taxi driven by that particular cabbie, ending up at La Machitas for one of your favorite meals in Peru. Those unexpected pleasures are what makes travel so much fun and it's nice to be reminded that our own hemisphere deserves exploration.

As for the graphic imagery, I must say I've developed quite a strong stomach for still photographs of innards. However, the one where the fresh, red meat remains connected to a jaw and teeth gave me pause--or rather, caused my index finger to hit the scroll button and scurry away.

As for the written report, I like your characterization of another favorite restaurant as a display case within a museum. Understated and lovely.

* * *

I hope someone will pipe up and tell us more about the tiny prickly-pearish fruit. I was astonished after the first image to see the second where its size became apparent.

Have we seen potatoes of various colors yet in your reports. The snowmen-like amuses look like a trend waiting to happen up here in the North, including my own kitchen. so I want to know more.

I also would appreciate a stronger sense of what would make a woman macho .

[docsconz]

John:  This entire report is just wonderful, but what really made me smile was the great fortune you had when getting in that particular taxi driven by that particular cabbie, ending up at La Machitas for one of your favorite meals in Peru.  Those unexpected pleasures are what makes travel so much fun and it's nice to be reminded that our own hemisphere deserves exploration.

Thank you, Pontormo. It wasn't quite as serendipitous as getting into a cab and ending up at a cabbie's recommended destination. This was a place that our guide frequented and recommended and the driver that we had for the previous four days took us to. We invited both to join us, which they happily (for us) did. The whole thing was still pretty spontaneous as they were officially finished with us for the day. We had developed a nice relationship over the previous days and this was a great way to cement it.

As for the graphic imagery, I must say I've developed quite a strong stomach for still photographs of innards.  However, the one where the fresh, red meat remains connected to a jaw and teeth gave me pause--or rather, caused my index finger to hit the scroll button and scurry away.

That's why I posted the warning. I have to admit that was a little stronger than I expected or had seen in other markets such as the Merced in Mexico City or the market in Puebla, neither of which were exactly tame.

As for the written report, I like your characterization of another favorite restaurant as a display case within a museum. Understated and lovely.

Thank you.

*    *    *

I hope someone will pipe up and tell us more about the tiny prickly-pearish fruit.  I was astonished after the first image to see the second where its size became apparent.

I would very much like to learn more about this as well.

Have we seen potatoes of various colors yet in your reports.  The snowmen-like amuses look like a trend waiting to happen up here in the North, including my own kitchen. so I want to know more.

Perhaps it was simply the time of the season, but we didn't really see an incredible variety of potatoes. I will show some others though from the Altiplano.

I also would appreciate a stronger sense of what would make a woman macho .

←

Why eating that ceviche of course!

[Sarabeth]

Well, you have just made one decision easier for us! We'll have three nights in Cusco the first week in April, so we'll be sure to get into MAP. We're planning on eating ceviche in Lima before that, so maybe we'll be able to compare it to your place in Cusco.

Thanks again for a great post... beautiful photos and great commentary.

[docsconz]

Well, you have just made one decision easier for us! We'll have three nights in Cusco the first week in April, so we'll be sure to get into MAP. We're planning on eating ceviche in Lima before that, so maybe we'll be able to compare it to your place in Cusco.

Thanks again for a great post... beautiful photos and great commentary.

←

I will look forward to your impressions!

[Davydd]

Our week in Cochabamba, Bolivia was totally self-guided. Our eating experiences there were truly authentic. We visited a chicheria in a small Andean village, Pocona, that was not a tourist stop, and on a native Andean farm outside of Sipe Sipe. We sampled chicha in two countries in 5 locations. I would not say it is a drink to pursue. The alcoholic content was not great but when they drink it at festivals they don't stop all day. We drank ours out of a shared gourd in Pocona and Sipe Sipe. That seemed kind of dangerous. No one in our party particularly liked chicha but we accepted with grace from our hosts. To drink chicha you first spill a little on the floor to the earth mother, Pacha Momma, before drinking. The two chicherias in the Andean villages had dirt floors. We had dinner at a private home of a well to do attorney and we spilled it there as well on beautiful marble floors.

←

Cochabamba... I was born there!

In Bolivia, they know cochabambinos as the ones who really enjoy eating. There's typical food to be had at virtualy every hour of the day!. And the pacha mama stuff, I still do it, spilling a bit of my beer on the floor.

Sorry, this was a bit off topic...

←

godito, and I have a Cochabambino grandson. Born there but of American parents. So now Bolivia is kind of an adopted country of interest to me. We need to get Doc to tour Bolivia now. He would do it great justice.

[Davydd]

One photo that I did not get that I really wanted was of the woman selling live frogs. She was one of the few who refused when I asked if I could photograph her or her frogs even after I offered her a tip.

←

doc do you always ask permission when taking photos? I have found that I generally don't unless someone is looking at me rather particularly....and I always wonder about professional bloggers, if they ask or not.

←

I can't say that I always ask, but if I am in an in-your-face position I will definitely ask. If I am really hoping to catch a candid shot and I am not in a position of being rude (i.e.subtle), I don't necessarily ask. I will never, however, take a photo of someone who refuses to be in one such as the frog lady. Depending on the situation I will often show the subject the photo and/or offer a small tip (if warranted and not a situation to seem condescending). Most people are happy to oblige and while some expect a tip, most do not, though it is generally appreciated. Some obviously touristic situations require a tip.

←

You quickly learn that if people show up outside your hotel and other stops in full colorful National Geographic photo opportunity regalia that they are there for your photos and a tip. Most of the places from Cusco to Machu Picchu are for tourist and photographers are everywhere and they are used to it.

[docsconz]

Our week in Cochabamba, Bolivia was totally self-guided. Our eating experiences there were truly authentic. We visited a chicheria in a small Andean village, Pocona, that was not a tourist stop, and on a native Andean farm outside of Sipe Sipe. We sampled chicha in two countries in 5 locations. I would not say it is a drink to pursue. The alcoholic content was not great but when they drink it at festivals they don't stop all day. We drank ours out of a shared gourd in Pocona and Sipe Sipe. That seemed kind of dangerous. No one in our party particularly liked chicha but we accepted with grace from our hosts. To drink chicha you first spill a little on the floor to the earth mother, Pacha Momma, before drinking. The two chicherias in the Andean villages had dirt floors. We had dinner at a private home of a well to do attorney and we spilled it there as well on beautiful marble floors.

←

Cochabamba... I was born there!

In Bolivia, they know cochabambinos as the ones who really enjoy eating. There's typical food to be had at virtualy every hour of the day!. And the pacha mama stuff, I still do it, spilling a bit of my beer on the floor.

Sorry, this was a bit off topic...

←

godito, and I have a Cochabambino grandson. Born there but of American parents. So now Bolivia is kind of an adopted country of interest to me. We need to get Doc to tour Bolivia now. He would do it great justice.

←

My next stop was in sight of Bolivia

[docsconz]

One photo that I did not get that I really wanted was of the woman selling live frogs. She was one of the few who refused when I asked if I could photograph her or her frogs even after I offered her a tip.

←

doc do you always ask permission when taking photos? I have found that I generally don't unless someone is looking at me rather particularly....and I always wonder about professional bloggers, if they ask or not.

←

I can't say that I always ask, but if I am in an in-your-face position I will definitely ask. If I am really hoping to catch a candid shot and I am not in a position of being rude (i.e.subtle), I don't necessarily ask. I will never, however, take a photo of someone who refuses to be in one such as the frog lady. Depending on the situation I will often show the subject the photo and/or offer a small tip (if warranted and not a situation to seem condescending). Most people are happy to oblige and while some expect a tip, most do not, though it is generally appreciated. Some obviously touristic situations require a tip.

←

You quickly learn that if people show up outside your hotel and other stops in full colorful National Geographic photo opportunity regalia that they are there for your photos and a tip. Most of the places from Cusco to Machu Picchu are for tourist and photographers are everywhere and they are used to it.

←

No doubt that most of the colorful outfits in and around Cusco were for the benefit of tourists, though not all. When my wife was there in the early 80's she said that most everybody wore traditional garb. Not so the case in Cusco or the sacred valley nowadays. Now around Lake Titicaca, the story was a bit different.

[Pan]

John, thanks for explaining the prices on the menu at MAP. I'm assuming that the food there was several multiples more expensive than the cost of your average meal in Peru? Very interesting-looking meal. Thank you, and I look forward to what I'm sure are beautiful photos from the Altiplano!

[docsconz]

The Altiplano

After our chifa lunch in Cusco we had to hightail it back to The Monasterio to meet our guide and driver for the drive to the airport four our afternoon flight to Juliaca, our gateway to Lake Titicaca in the Peruvian Altiplano. Upon our arrival we were met by a new (to us) guide, Javier and driver, Percy.

I thought Montana was Big Sky country, but this was right up there with that. This photo shows the fields of the Altiplano as we headed towards Puno and Lake Titicaca.

Our first intended stop on our way out to Puno was supposed to have been Sillustani, the ancient pre-Incan and Incan burial mounds, however, the lighting was stunning and as we were driving we saw a homestead with a number of llamas out front and asked the driver to stop.

No.2 son making friends.

As we got out of the van to see the animals, people came out from the house and invited us in to see it.

The entrance from the inside.

The people were very gracious and friendly, offering us some bread and demonstrating aspects of their lifestyle. We were obviously not the first visitors to have ever stopped by, though our visit was pure serendipity. Javier showed us some of the food items that they used on an everyday basis.

Homemade cheese that was offered to us.

Take note, Pontormo - another variety of potato!

The kitchen.

Demonstration of grinding quinoa into flour. Other demonstrations included weaving a blanket and tilling the soil. While the tip I left for thanks was appreciated it was not required.

Edited March 26, 2007 by docsconz (log)

[godito]

The Altiplano

Take note, Pontormo - another variety of potato!

←

That's Olluco (or ulluco, in Ecuador, or Papa Lisa in Bolivia) My favorite!!!

[godito]

Our week in Cochabamba, Bolivia was totally self-guided. Our eating experiences there were truly authentic. We visited a chicheria in a small Andean village, Pocona, that was not a tourist stop, and on a native Andean farm outside of Sipe Sipe. We sampled chicha in two countries in 5 locations. I would not say it is a drink to pursue. The alcoholic content was not great but when they drink it at festivals they don't stop all day. We drank ours out of a shared gourd in Pocona and Sipe Sipe. That seemed kind of dangerous. No one in our party particularly liked chicha but we accepted with grace from our hosts. To drink chicha you first spill a little on the floor to the earth mother, Pacha Momma, before drinking. The two chicherias in the Andean villages had dirt floors. We had dinner at a private home of a well to do attorney and we spilled it there as well on beautiful marble floors.

←

Cochabamba... I was born there!

In Bolivia, they know cochabambinos as the ones who really enjoy eating. There's typical food to be had at virtualy every hour of the day!. And the pacha mama stuff, I still do it, spilling a bit of my beer on the floor.

Sorry, this was a bit off topic...

←

godito, and I have a Cochabambino grandson. Born there but of American parents. So now Bolivia is kind of an adopted country of interest to me. We need to get Doc to tour Bolivia now. He would do it great justice.

←

Right! Bolivia is a beautiful place to visit. And the food is well worth a trip! I wish I was going to Bolivia sometime soon, that way I can post my own pictures and show you all the wonderful food to be had in places like Cochabamba. John, this whole thread has been wonderful and inspiring. I'm really enjoying it!

[docsconz]

Our week in Cochabamba, Bolivia was totally self-guided. Our eating experiences there were truly authentic. We visited a chicheria in a small Andean village, Pocona, that was not a tourist stop, and on a native Andean farm outside of Sipe Sipe. We sampled chicha in two countries in 5 locations. I would not say it is a drink to pursue. The alcoholic content was not great but when they drink it at festivals they don't stop all day. We drank ours out of a shared gourd in Pocona and Sipe Sipe. That seemed kind of dangerous. No one in our party particularly liked chicha but we accepted with grace from our hosts. To drink chicha you first spill a little on the floor to the earth mother, Pacha Momma, before drinking. The two chicherias in the Andean villages had dirt floors. We had dinner at a private home of a well to do attorney and we spilled it there as well on beautiful marble floors.

←

Cochabamba... I was born there!

In Bolivia, they know cochabambinos as the ones who really enjoy eating. There's typical food to be had at virtualy every hour of the day!. And the pacha mama stuff, I still do it, spilling a bit of my beer on the floor.

Sorry, this was a bit off topic...

←

godito, and I have a Cochabambino grandson. Born there but of American parents. So now Bolivia is kind of an adopted country of interest to me. We need to get Doc to tour Bolivia now. He would do it great justice.

←

Right! Bolivia is a beautiful place to visit. And the food is well worth a trip! I wish I was going to Bolivia sometime soon, that way I can post my own pictures and show you all the wonderful food to be had in places like Cochabamba. John, this whole thread has been wonderful and inspiring. I'm really enjoying it!

←

Thank you, Godito and Davydd and thank you for your added insights! While not in Bolivia the next few spots are pretty darn close!

[docsconz]

After our visit with the Altiplano family, we continued on to a late afternoon visit to the beautiful ruins of Sillustani. We learned a little bit about certain agricultural methods including the ancient practice of raised bed agriculture around lake shores and other seasonal water bodies called waru-waru.

From Sillustani we proceeded to our hotel on a little isthmus in Puno arriving after a heavy rain storm and well after sunset. After settling into our rooms we headed to the hotel dining room for dinner, anything else being extremeley out of the way and inconvenient to these tired travelers. Its too bad, because this was probably the least enjoyable meal of our trip. I did not take photos. The food wasn't necessarily bad, I just simply didn't like it. I ordered roast suckling pig, normally a favorite of mine. As a bonus it came with chuno potatoes! These potatoes were as bland and insipid as food could be. That I didn't like the suckling pig either leads me to think that it might not have been the potatoes, but perhaps the restaurant or me. While I would not give the potatoes or anything else another chance at that restaurant, I would try them again elsewhere if the right opportunity presented itself. It did not on the remainder of our trip much to my releief! At least we did get to watch a Barcelona futbol match on tv that evening even though they lost at home to Arsenal.

The next day we awoke to a beautiful sunrise overlooking Lake Titicaca!

[docsconz]

Uros Islands

The following morning after a hearty breakfast we met our guide, Javier, who brought us down to the dock to introduce us to our boat captain, Nestor and our own boat that would take us out on the Lake for a tour and ultimately to spend the night on Taquile Island.

Our dirst stop would be the famous "Floating Islands" of the Uros people set amongst the tortora reed beds of the Bay of Puno. This ancient community was made somewhat famous in the 1970's by National Geographic. Extremely early inhabitants of the lake Titicaca area, they are particularly noteworthy for building islands out of the tortora reeds that float and which serve as the "land" for their homes and community.

For the community that we visited, much of their livelihood is dependent on tourism and they cater to it. We visited one such island, the one in the photo above, which consists of several families living jointly on the island. Should their be disharmony the island is literally sawn apart with the disparate groups drifting off to their separate ways.

With the assistance of several of the Uros people, Javier explained the Uros way of life to us including how the islands are made and of particular interest perhaps to this audience what they eat and how they procure it.

Tortora reeds are multifaceted and not just used to live on or make boats with (actually, very few tortora boats are used anymore for purposes other than tourist excursions - at least on Lake Titicaca). Fresh tortora is also useful as a food item.

Crisp and clean tasting, the tortora hearts reminded me a bit of the hearts of another plant - the palm. It was actually quite refreshing.

Fishing is obviously important to these lake dwellers. Pictured are a small, bony native species whose name escapes me at the moment. These fish are particularly prized in soup making and are claimed to promote brain growth. Because of this, the soup is supposedly made particularly for growing children.

The native fish species are much diminished since the introduction of several outside species such as trout and kingfish - two particularly good and popular eating fish.

In addition to fish, the eggs from various waterfowl are noteworthy dietary items for the islanders. They also trap birds and other wildlife though they are forbidden to shoot them.

Making the fish soup.

We were offered some fried bread.

Drying lake birds.

The islanders are pretty self-sufficient. Because the lake climate is warmer than the surrounding altiplano the islanders are able to grow crops not available on the mainland. The build in little plots on the island on which they grow potatoes, quinoa and wheat amongst other items. They also had a separate little island for their pack of guinea pigs. The separate island was to preserve them from the cats they maintain on the islands to keep the population of other lake rodents down.

[Sarabeth]

Uros Islands

They also had a separate little island for their pack of guinea pigs. The separate island was to preserve them from the cats they maintain on the islands to keep the population of other lake rodents down.

←

Smart idea, I'd say. Also, I meant to ask if you or your family had any problem with the altitude in Cusco. It's my one big concern for our trip since we won't have a lot of time to acclimate.

Once again, the photos are great. I love the perspective of the Uros island with the mountains in the background.

[docsconz]

Uros Islands

They also had a separate little island for their pack of guinea pigs. The separate island was to preserve them from the cats they maintain on the islands to keep the population of other lake rodents down.

←

Smart idea, I'd say. Also, I meant to ask if you or your family had any problem with the altitude in Cusco. It's my one big concern for our trip since we won't have a lot of time to acclimate.

Once again, the photos are great. I love the perspective of the Uros island with the mountains in the background.

←

The altitude certainly can be an issue and one should be careful if one is not in good shape. As far as altitude sickness, coca tea is wonderful. One or two cups/day really helped and I enjoyed the flavor as well.

[Pan]

John, do you know how the Uros people prevent fires from burning up their reed islands when they cook?

[docsconz]

John, do you know how the Uros people prevent fires from burning up their reed islands when they cook?

←

Michael, other than that reeds are generally moist, I don't really know. I'm sure that they have learned to be careful with fire over the centuries, especially during the dry season. My guess is that they build fire pits lined by stones and manage fires aggrssively.

[docsconz]

A few more photos from the Uros Island:

Wheat growing on a patch the island. It doesn't grow in the altiplano. The altitude here is about 13,000ft.

The guinea pig patch

The pantry

Close-up of drying fish.

I won't be able to continue my story until the middle/end of next week as I'll be busy eating.