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LA Times Food Section -- November 2, 2005 The Cookbook Issue Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. NB At the bottom of this week's digest are a few discussion threads about cookbooks So much new to savor / by Regina Schrambling At last, a fall publishing season brings a crop of truly compelling cookbooks. If you were allowed to choose only ONE of the new cookbooks, you couldn't. It is truly a fall harvest full of new cookbooks. Includes four recipes: Sogliole in salsa picante (sole in piquant sauce); Hassan's potato, olive and harissa tortilla; Beets with tahini; Deconstructed tomato bread (pa amb tomaquet deconstruido); and a side article, “Make room on your shelves” There's a related discussion thread about this topic: Cookbooks published in 2005 Shelves and shelves of delicious reads / by Susan LaTempa and Charles Perry Looking for the hottest new title from Japan or a first-edition Larousse? You're in luck. Southern California has the largest book market in the country. So, it's not unusual that there are many book stores specializing in ... cookbooks. Includes the side article, ”Books for all kinds of cooks” Tattered, torn and terrific / by Russ Parsons; Donna Deane; S. Irene Virbila; Barbara Hansen; Charles Perry; Leslie Brenner Times Food staff writers offer up the books and recipes they'd never part with. For example, let's find out why Russ Parsons' favorite cookbook is Richard Olney's “Simple French Food.” Includes six recipes: Chicken from the garden of St. Marcos (from "Mexican Cook Book Devoted to American Homes" by Josefina Velázquez de León); Standing rib roast of pork (from "Zuni Café Cookbook" by Judy Rodgers); Onion panade (from "Simple French Food" by Richard Olney); Almond torte (from "Chez Panisse Desserts" by Lindsey Remoulif Shere); Hollandaise sauce made in the electric blender (from "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck) Côtelettes de porc au cidre (from "French Country Cooking" by Elizabeth David) Sunday supper, with L.A. sparkle / by Russ Parsons "At Lucques, Sundays mean three-course suppers with dishes such as grilled pork confit with braised rice soubise and roasted figs, or Tunisian lamb-and-eggplant stew with farro, parsley and harissa. Everyone is offered the same menu and everyone seems happy to be having it. Suzanne Goin's book, “Sunday Suppers at Lucques, is a collection of seven-years' worth of menus. And her restaurants ... are at the top of the Los Angeles dining scene. Includes two recipes: Grilled quail with Sicilian breadcrumbs, pancetta and ricotta pudding; Olive oil cake with crème fraîche and candied tangerines The real cost of a free meal / by Scott Martelle A restaurant critic dines on the house, raising serious questions about the ethics of reviewing. eGullet is mentioned in the article. If the writer would only get the URL correct ... That's eGullet dot O-R-G ... There's a long discussion thread about John Mariani and the ethics of reviewing: John Mariani A crisp, mouth-watering, complex guide / by Leslie Brenner Master Sommelier Vincent Gasnier boldly tackles the wide world of alcoholic beverages. "Drinks: Enjoying, Choosing, Storing, Serving, and Appreciating Wines, Beers, Cocktails, Spirits, Aperitifs, Liqueurs and Ciders" by Vincent Gasnier sounds rather overwhelming to be considered definitive. Mind you, Brenner states: If you could only have one book in your library to cover the entire potable world (make that the entire alcoholic potable world), this could be it. Includes three recipes of drinks: Alcazar; Brooklyn; Champs-Elysées Michelin unveils NYC stars / by Regina Schrambling After months of anticipation and weeks of gossip, Michelin issued its first ratings of New York City restaurants Tuesday, and the results were mostly safe, with a few surprises. There's a discussion thread about this topic on: Michelin Guide to New York est arrive! A book for Dada cooks / by Wesley Bausmith JUST out in a pocket-sized paperback edition, Allan Ben's "Art and Cook: Love Food, Live Design and Dream Art" (Universe, $23), takes an overtly arty tack to a book about cookery. The cover — reminiscent of Man Ray or René Magritte — features a surrealistic shot of an egg cracked open to reveal an eyeball, which stares, Cyclops-like, at the viewer. Where looks are everything / by S. Irene Virbila The Lodge in Beverly Hills is given a 1* rating. The Lodge in Beverly Hills is the latest hipster steakhouse. Its wacky woodsy décor gets the imagination going wild. That's good, because Irene is having a difficult time getting excited about another new hip and trendy steakhouse in the LA area. ... for people who think food matters, the Lodge doesn't begin to deliver. It's just another steakhouse dressed to kill. There's a discussion thread about this topic: Southern California steakhouses WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2003 Domaine de la Janasse Terre d'Argile Côtes du Rhône Villages: Rhône Valley; about $19; aromatic and concentrated; goes with sausage and cheese, hearty soups, braised duck legs, roasts. ... a lovely ruby red with notes of spice and wild herbs in the perfume. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Pleasing a tough customer / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Literati II on Wilshire Blvd. After being in business for seven months, Literati II has just added weekend brunch. Irene and family members tried that place. And a very lovely time is had by all. Even my mother. Why are restaurants so noisy? In this edition of “Ask the critic,” S. Irene Virbila explains why restaurants sometimes ratchet up the racket. There's a discussion thread about this topic: Noisy restaurants Brunch sans buffet / by Leslie Komaiko There's a time and place for lavish buffet brunches, but sometimes all you want are some killer pancakes or eggs made to order. Includes five restaurants: M Café de Chaya on Melrose Ave., L.A.; More Than Waffles on Ventura Blvd., Encino; Duke's on Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; Axe on Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; The Hungry Cat on N. Vine, Hollywood. Here are a few discussion threads about cookbooks: "So You Want To Write a Cookbook" Food Reference Books Cookbook writers on eGullet Cookbook Shelving and Storage Cook Books-How many do you Own

I'm amazed that you're doing this operatic foodblog without a rehearsal pianist, ehh hem. Now, I can enjoy food & music on eGullet this week while listening to my favorite classical music radio station. You're doing just fine. Are you using any cookbooks? Or do you prefer having someone teach you one-on-one? Will you be singing while you're cooking?

How about David West, the Mushroom Man (aka dfunghi)?

Add one more book. Tonight at Costco: "Nobu Now". Talk about impulse buying ...

Maggie, Thank you for sharing yourself to us. Now, get some rest. Drink plenty of hot tea with lemon and honey. If I was closer to you, I'd give you a package of ginger candy for your throat. Being sick is no fun. And remember, Murphy was an optimist.

At the risk of being severely punished, I have the Zagat books for Southern California since 1993. Zagat did cover the Central Coast up until 2002. Then, the 2003 edition didn't cover the area at all, not even Santa Barbara or Palm Springs. Mind you, coverage for the Santa Barbara & Palm Springs areas just came back in the 2005 edition. Perhaps, the reason for the recent lack of coverage was 9/11. I appreciate the Zagat books. Before there was eGullet, I used Zagat. It's convenient. It gives possibilities to those not familiar with the area. Mind you, Zagat definitely focuses on the "popular" places, from chains to independents, all based on the "there's safety in numbers" type of survey. Thus, Zagat tries to be all things to all people. Of course, one should take their ratings with a grain of salt. It's not a full-length review like the LAT or the NYT.

I would lean towards caterer #2, due to the cost and the staff issue you had with caterer #1, especially after you had words with caterer #1. And with caterer #2, I suppose the staffing won't be an issue. I presume caterer #3 is not an option (i.e., you). Half the cost, twice the insanity, ehh? BTW, does eGullet have a catering service yet? Never mind ...

I grew up eating the former style. Instead of placing the black bean (dow see) on top, it is smashed and mixed with the garlic & ginger root mixture, then later with the pork. hzrt8w, you steam the dish for 15 minutes?? Is that long enough for the pork to get cooked? I remember my father saying 45 minutes. This is my 500th post. I had choices, and I decided to post here, Ah Leung.

Mulled cider in a crockpot. I think you can make crepes ahead of time, freeze them and when you're ready, warm them up and improvise ...

Well, Marlene, how did the dips turn out? Are you ready to become a vegan, full-throttle?

I notice you made a lot of sauce ("jup") with the dish. Well, a lot to me. That means you must cook a lot of rice to use up the sauce, ehh?

I'm going through my copy of Deborah Madison's book, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. Here are some ideas: Tapenade or olive paste: with capers, garlic, thyme, EVOO, ground pepper, lemon juice. Roasted red pepper spread: with garlic, EVOO, red wine vinegar, ground pepper. Puree. Hummus: YEAH!! Salsa: tomatoes, garlic, onion, serrano or jalapeno chiles, cider vinegar FYI Vegans do not eat any meat or animal by-products. That includes dairy products (milk, cheese, sour cream, eggs), even honey (bee by-product). Coconut milk is okay.

If you're including Tom Kitten, you must include: The Tale of Peter Rabbit "... don't go into Mr. McGregor's garden: your Father had an accident there; he was put in a pie by Mrs. McGregor."

I'm trying to figure out why you would go to Santa Barbara when UCSD is in San Diego (La Jolla)?

Stone soup.

Maggie, Great blog! It's been a while since I last visited Crystal Lake. Do you know some of these places: Genovese's, Bistro Wasabi, Texan Bar-B-Q, Gazebo Grill, D&J Bistro? Those were some of the places I ate at during my last business trip to the area a few years ago. As for your cat, Cashew: WOOF!

JayBassin, I don't know whether you'll have a car to drive around, but here are a couple of threads about some restaurants in the area: Food in Venice Joe's Restaurant Review, Venice, CA With a car, you're not too far away from Santa Monica/Venice area. Do you want to stay south of the LAX area? West of the 405? Culver City? Around the Forum? Let us know what you want ...

Belvedere restaurant, which is also located in the Peninsula Hotel, was given a rather scathing one-star review in the Los Angeles Times this week. Here's the link to the LA Times Food Section Digest (26 October 2005). Hopefully, my afternoon tea experience won't be as ... uhh ... adventurous as Leslie Brenner's (the critic who did the review).

LA Times Food Section -- October 26, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Cocktails, amici? / by Regina Schrambling There's a delicious new ritual of savory bites and light drinks the Italians call aperitivo. Let's join them. When you order wine in Italy, instead of chips or peanuts, it comes with snacks like salami, cheese, olives, and bread, and you're only charged for the wine. ”With aperitivo, ... the idea is, 'You're drinking with me, I'll find something in my house to eat, but I don't know what I have, we'll see'” ... Includes four recipes: Crostini tonnato (tuna crostini); Sage risotto bites; Hazelnut pesto puffs; Stuffed fried olives; and the side article, “Just a slice away” For luxury that's worth the wait / by Donna Deane Lower the flame, slow down the scramble and transform eggs into pure bliss. This is a recipe for slow-scrambled eggs. And I do mean S-L-O-W. Slow-scrambled eggs take at least 10 minutes and up to 25 minutes, depending on the temperature of the eggs, the pan and even your kitchen. Includes three recipes: Slow-cooked scrambled eggs with bottarga; Slow-scrambled eggs with prosciutto; Tweety scramble A toast to Turin / by Regina Schrambling EVEN as food has become a bigger part of the ritual of aperitivo in Italy, drinks will always be the essential ingredient. Coke does turn up on the occasional cafe table, but more often alcohol is involved. And it's not always what you would expect ... Wine is clearly the drink of a new generation all through Italy. Includes two recipes: Negroni and Spritz Woodsy toss in the pan / by Russ Parsons ONE morning recently, I woke up and realized summer was over. Though I live miles from anything like a forest, the cool, damp air carried a perfume that reminded me of a walk in the woods, feet shuffling through a deep thatch of wet, fallen leaves. I snuggled deeper into my comforter and dreamed about mushrooms. The fungus of his dreams has to taste woodsy and wild and it takes just one simple trick: Do everything backward. Includes two recipes: Mushroom hash and Mushroom and winter squash gratin Dead heads / by Susan LaTempa The souls of the departed return to their former earthly neighborhoods on Día de los Muertos (Nov. 1 and 2), and in many households they're welcomed with an ofrenda, or altar, decorated with photos, mementos and small sugar sculptures (alfeñiques) including sugar skulls or calaveras. Calaveras are offered to the living as well, exchanged by children or given as sweet treats or favors during holiday visits. Selecting just the right aperitivo / by Leslie Brenner Vermouth, bitters and beers A list of recommended selections with retail locations in the area. Classic stew, spiced the Malaysian way / by Barbara Hansen RENDANG is a favorite dish at our local Malaysian restaurants, but there's rendang and then there's rendang. Times staff writer Charles Perry came across an exceptionally rich and luscious version of the spicy stew during his travels in England this summer. This recipe is from Lagenda, the restaurant of the Holiday Villa Hotel in London, which is part of a Malaysian-based chain. With holidays nearing, get ready to talk turkey / by Cindy Dorn IT'S time to order heritage turkeys before they're all gone. Some deadlines are as early as Nov. 5, and I'm not talking turkey. Well, you know what I mean ... A colorful bazaar of dazzling flavors / by Susan LaTempa At cozy Cayenne, Middle East meets West in rustic mezes, refined falafel and hearty sandwiches. Cayenne on Beverly Blvd. is a busy neighborhood cafe that has an atmosphere with many moods. Like a quirky friend who's got a different take on things, Cayenne's full of pleasant surprises. At your service? / by Leslie Brenner Belvedere at the Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills is given a 1* rating. You'd expect to be pampered at the Belvedere, the dining room in the Peninsula Beverly Hills hotel. It's a “once upon a time” review about a fancy restaurant that's pretentious, haughty, stuffy, and intimidating. You probably thought restaurants like this were ancient history, especially in Los Angeles. Well, keep reading ... There is a discussion thread about this article: The Belvedere, Beverly Hills Hotel WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2004 Hartford Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, California: Sonoma; about $20; Burgundian; goes with daubes and other stews, roast birds, grilled meat, cheese. Their wonderful Pinot Noir ... is priced like a bargain but tastes of luxury. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Quite a friendly surprise / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Bistro Provence in Burbank. While the location is in a strip mall, this bistro is the project of former Pinot Bistro chef Miki Zivkovic and maitre d' Stanko Mihajlov. The menu is strictly cuisine du marché and changes weekly ... The name suggests Provençal cuisine, but at this friendly neighborhood bistro Provence is more a state of mind than a collection of regional recipes. Providing a big, big start to the day / by Dog Davis Jack and the King go head to head in the race for meatiest breakfast sandwich. Where's the boeuf? / by Leslie Komaiko The French might be best known for their aptitude in all things amorous and their skill with a saucepan. But they work wonders with beef as well. Includes five restaurants: French 75 on Jamboree Road, Irvine; Mimosa on Beverly Blvd., L.A.; Cezanne on Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; La Cachette on Santa Monica Blvd., Century City; Kendall's Brasserie on N. Grand Ave., downtown L.A.

I've been invited to afternoon tea (pronounced "teh") next week at the Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills. I'm looking forward to this... I checked their website, and I found their tea menu. Any suggestions/advice in preparation for the event? I'm partial to Earl Grey or English Breakfast, no sugar, no cream, maybe a little lemon. Why add to perfection, ehh? Hopefully, I'll post my experience ... with photos. Thank you in advance.

Oh, it's "show and tell" time, ehh? Pretty sneaky of you, Chris ... I have about a couple of bookcase shelves filled with cookbooks and a box or two of cookbooks that are in the middle of my studio apartment (which is less than 400 sq. ft.). What's so depressing is getting myself motivated to do a little re-organizing to maximize my space. Uhh ... did I say that I'm a librarian? ...

Not bad, hzrt8w. You should have tried my late father's version. I noticed that you didn't boil the noodles before you pan fried. That's the version I grew up eating. I might have to try it that way. It sure would save me the extra step of boiling the noodles. If you would, I'll have two orders of #18, please. Both with chicken, beef & shrimp combined ...

In your searching, you may want to use some former names of the Democratic Republic of Congo: Belgian Congo, Zaire, ... I was looking through my African cooking book (Time-Life series). Nothing much, and that particular volume was really old (1960's). I suppose that with this benefit event, one should be culturally-sensitive, ehh? Just to clarify, do you want ideas mainly in presentation, not actual Central African recipes?

How often do you eat a steak? And what type of cut? Cook it at home or eat out? If you eat out to have a steak, which places & which ones are the best to you?

Thank you, hzrt8w! I'm impressed with the Cashew Chicken dish. I don't see one water chestnut or one piece of celery mixed into that dish, unlike some Chinese restaurants (Americanized) I've encountered in the past.