rjwong

LA Times Food Section -- October 19, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Acres of apples / by Charles Perry Oak Glen, with its myriad varieties, is just a country drive away. About 75 miles east from downtown Los Angeles in eastern San Bernardino County, Oak Glen has become an apple lovers' mecca with about 100 varieties, most of them are not available at farmers markets. So you have to make the trek up there, out in the country. But be careful! In drought years (fortunately, this year set records for rainfall), when there aren't many wild berries in the hills, bears have been known to come down and raid the apples. Bears! Included are three side articles: “Apple country address book” , “Bushels of reds, greens and golds” & “Apples available at Oak Glen: The list” Also included are three recipes: Apple crème brûlée; Caramelized-apple gâteau basque; Marinated shaved apples with spiced apple granité There's a discussion thread on this topic: APPLES! tis the season Pinot king's ouster shocks wine realm / by Russ Parsons Richard Sanford is a seminal figure in the world of Pinot Noirs, with his 1982 founding of Sanford Winery and Vineyards. Then late last month, Sanford suddenly announced he was leaving it all behind. He and his wife, Thekla, were moving on to start a new enterprise, Alma Rosa Winery and Vineyards. The news came as a shock. What happened? Richard Sanford: “This is the thing that is so damned awful about this," Sanford says. "People here have wondered for a while what was going on, but I think out of courtesy they didn't ask. People have been very supportive, but it is kind of wearing." The bakeries are here! / by Betty Baboujon COULD L.A. be turning into a real bakery town? It seems to be shaping up that way, judging from all the dough on the rise. Here are a few names and places: Parisian master baker Eric Kayser, New York restaurateur Maury Rubin, pastry chef Michelle Myers, Belgian company Le Pain Quotidien, Japan-based cream puff specialist Beard Papa's, Santa Monica chef Hans Röckenwagner ... The new arrivals — particularly Kayser's Breadbar and Rubin's City Bakery — could signal that L.A.'s bakery culture is finally starting to grow up. A rustic dish with flair / by Barbara Hansen Cocido, a favorite in Mexican kitchens, gives the season's vegetables a chance to shine. A soup served all over Mexico, cocido is comprised of beef shank and some seasonal vegetables, accompanied by spicy salsa and Mexican rice. It's light but satisfying, fabulously flavorful and not at all fussy. Included are three recipes: Cocido; Salsa for cocido; Mexican rice Exotic fish migrate to L.A. plates / by Leslee Komaiko When it comes to fish, Los Angeles chefs are cultivating a taste for the exotic. Hebi, triggerfish, Japanese ayu, aji, kampachi, and uku, a Hawaiian gray snapper are some of the lesser-known fishes being served in Los Angeles. And chefs can't help but fall for these fish. Harmonic convergence at the beach / by Susan LaTempa Chakra mixes it up, with a playful Orientalist look and an appealing Pan-Asian menu. Colin Sako and his colleague, Lisa Elliot have opened up Chakra, a five-month-old Pan-Asian restaurant in Manhattan Beach, with a menu mix of traditional dishes (such as satays, summer rolls and pad Thai), cross-cultural creations (lemon grass ceviche, Asian ratatouille) and Cal cuisine with a twist (guava sake mahi mahi, lamb shanks braised in Thai mussamam curry). Why not paint the night red? / by Leslie Brenner Chapter Eight in Agoura Hills is given a 1½* rating. Welcome to the sleepy, pastoral bedroom community of Agoura Hills. Chapter Eight Steakhouse & Dance Lounge is the new scene for steaks and dancing, with its red, red, red, decor, kind of like Las Vegas ... or Palm Springs. Executive chef Eddy Shin (formerly of Nick & Stef's steakhouse downtown) ... approaches the steakhouse menu with such a measure of creativity and earnestness that you really want to like everything. In fact, his simplest dishes work best. There's a discussion thread on Southern California steakhouses: "Southern California steakhouses" post on Chapter Eight (with photos) WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2003 Domaine du Vissoux Moulin à Vent: Beaujolais; about $22; lush and age-worthy; goes with grilled sausages, roast birds and fall's braised meats and daubes. The taste is gorgeous ripe fruit with something earthy to keep you coming back to the glass for another sip. Robaire set the couscous standard I enjoyed the well-researched and gloriously illustrated article on couscous ["Marrakesh Express," Oct. 5]. However, I was shocked that it didn't mention Robaire's French restaurant on La Brea. Robert Robaire was undoubtedly the first to serve "double-steamed" couscous in Los Angeles, going all the way back to the early 1950s. It's the incredible growing prices REGARDING "Incredible Shrinking Restaurant Scene" [Oct. 5], there's only one reason all but 500 people have stopped going to fancy restaurants. It's the prices, stupid! Whether it's because of higher rents, labor and food costs, greed or whatever, the bottom line is it costs too darn much to go out to dinner these days. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Fine dining, at arm's length / by Leslie Brenner Critic's notebook on Valentino in Santa Monica. Last spring, owner Piero Selvaggio brought in 32-year-old Lombardy-born Ezio Gamba. Shortly after his arrival, the a la carte portion of the menu was replaced with an all fixed-price format, with options like "classic menu," "tasting of Italian traditions" and a six-course chef's tasting menu. Then, at the bottom of the menu: "A note from chef Ezio: If you do not see your favorite dish, do not hesitate to ask; we will prepare it for you. If you do not have one, we will create it for you." What fun! New toque / by Leslee Komaiko A new chef can bring renewed excitement not only to the plate but also to an entire restaurant. Includes five restaurants (with new chef): Joe's (Joshua Gil) on Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; Gardens Restaurant (Ashley James) on S. Doheny Drive, Beverly Hills; P6 (Robert Lia) on Agoura Road, Westlake Village; O-Bar (Scott Hawley) on Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood; Polo Lounge (Robert Allen) on Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills.

Chris, the dim sum looks pretty good. Do you prefer the char siu bao steamed or baked? Personally, I like mine steamed, but with a smooth top, not broken. Have you tried CBS Restaurant or Empress Pavilion in downtown LA (there are threads posted in the CA forum)? I know you posted about the Mayflower BBQ Seafood Restaurant. I would like your take on Lucky Garden, in comparison to specific LA restaurants. If you haven't tried those places I named, then come on out to LA. I'll treat! (that's you, singular) You're left-handed also, ehh? Good on you!

There are many restaurants in Old Town Pasadena. Mind you, I don't know whether your group wants to avoid Colorado Blvd. & Old Town on NYE. Is that a factor in the decision-making process? I read about a restaurant named Derek's. $105 at the Ritz on NYE? I'm not surprised, but even for kids?? Anyways, I'm not finished yet. I'll be checking some more sources for you.

Yes, you are immortalized in the LA Times Food Section Digest (12 Oct. 2005) Have you tried Saladang on Fair Oaks Ave. (two locations right next to each other)? The south location has the spicier Thai street food menu and outdoor dining that's great for large groups with kids (I suppose). This is not your typical mom & pop operation in some mini-mall. The decor is spacious, with a glass building. The last time I went, they were able to accommodate a group of about 30. The atmosphere can feel celebratory. Check it out yourself. I think I took a photo of the place. Let me find it. Edited to add: I found them! Outdoor dining at Saladang (south location) Indoors, there are high ceilings, creating a huge space. Yes, glass walls all around.

Last month, S. Irene Virbila (LAT food critic) reviewed the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Pasadena. I was thinking of Parkway Grill. I heard it kind of ... changed. Irene reviewed the place back in 22 June 2005. Orris? I never heard of that place. Please, tell us more. David, for your information, Metro Gold Line from Pasadena goes to downtown LA. $3 day pass on any MTA bus & rail lines. I can double-check their schedule for NYE & NYD, if you wish.

Here are all the links to all of the discussion threads dealing with this topic: the pasta debate World's Oldest Noodles Found! Origins of noodles/pasta Origins of the NOODLE?

I was reading through Harold McGee's book, "On food and cooking" (rev. ed.), and on pg. 163, there is a section titled "Guidelines for succulent braises and stews." I'll try to summarize: As expected, McGee gets into the technical aspects of stewing. You can read all the details in his book. My overall impression with McGee's book is definitely stew your meat ... slowly ... It seems to me that using a crock pot is ideal for making a stew. I hope this helps.

coxcrpr, Welcome to the California forum! For your information, this "kid" is officially old. If you want to call me "kid," your age will have to be somewhere between 45 and death. Back to topic ... As Alton Brown would say, "I'm just here for the food." Mind you, there are occasions where decor plays a role in my decision. The type of restaurants I gravitate to are more historic, classy, traditional, retro. Two places that come to my mind are Cicada in downtown LA & Lawry's the Prime Rib in Beverly Hills. Cicada is located in the historic Oviatt Building, the first Art Deco building in Los Angeles. Lawry's the Prime Rib has that huge dining room with murals and full-length portraits that adds to the grandeur of the restaurant. And sometimes, I can go for contemporary and/or ethnic as well. Last week, I had dinner at a really good Thai place called Saladang in Pasadena. It's not a hole-in-the-wall place in some mini-mall. The restaurant is huge with glass walls, outside dining, it's hard for me describe. You just have to go there and see it, if you haven't already. I have a copy of Zagat's as well. What kind of info are you looking for that Zagat doesn't have? Have you seen the restaurants for yourself? Are you focusing more on the popular restaurants with big rooms? Or perhaps small operations that are out of the way? Is there a dinner event you have to organize & you need some help? Again, welcome to eGullet, coxcrpr!

LA Times Food Section -- October 12, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Truly, madly moonstruck / by Russ Parsons Chefs and diners are paying a fortune for Kobe beef, the marvelously marbled Japanese-style delicacy. But is it worth the price? And there's the matter of terms: most “Kobe” beef sold today should really be called wagyu. Whatever you call it, it can be truly remarkable beef. There's no hype about that. Includes two side articles: “Where to find wagyu,” and “A short history of beef in Japan” A spirit of the islands unbound / by John Balzar Aged rums are far too sophisticated to fuel a mojito or daiquiri. Full bodied and complex, they're better sipped. The end of summer and the beginning of autumn means a lingering, meditative time in the sofa chair and ottoman with a glass of rum. "I think rum is not just for having a cocktail anymore," sommelier Peter Birmingham says. "Those contemplative moments after dinner come to mind." Includes the side article, “ One big, rambunctious family” Here is a link to The Ministry of Rum forum. From Piedmont, soups with heart / by S. Irene Virbila IT'S a place where women still make glorious egg-yolk-rich tagliatelle, put up jars of peppers and peaches, and, in some villages, bake bread in the communal bread oven. Piedmont, the fabled wine region of northwest Italy, has its special dishes each season, but my favorite time is fall, when the nebbia, or fog, that gives the Nebbiolo grape its name shrouds the steeply canted vineyards, and the leaves have changed to crimson and gold. Wood smoke scents the air and, at night, on the lonely country roads, headlights pick up the occasional truffle hunter and his dog heading off into the forest. Includes three recipes: Minestra di fagioli e maltagliate (bean soup with pasta); Chickpea, borlotti and wheat berry soup (mesciüva); Wheat harvester's soup (minestra di batà il grana) Ripe with anticipation / by Betty Baboujon Timing is everything for the pear, whose gentle silhouette is autumn's embodiment. There's a time for picking, a time for ripening, and a time for eating. When that moment arrives, you must seize it — gently. Includes three recipes: Pear frangipane turnovers; Pear and cardamom upside-down cake; Poached pears with red wine caramel sauce The festive side of fresh / by Susan LaTempa A Tarzana café offers vegan dishes that don't disappoint. Desserts stand out too. Madeleine Bistro in Tarzana opened in late May by the husband-wife team of David and Molly Anderson. David Anderson, formerly executive chef at Real Food Daily and sous chef at Inn of the Seventh Ray, creates inventive, sophisticated, well-crafted vegan food, which is a welcomed change in the San Fernando Valley. A mushroom not to be missed / by Russ Parsons The rare matsutake is even harder to come by this season. Grab some while you can. At $50 a pound, they're a bargain compared with truffles. Available in Southern California grocery stores or from David West (aka dfunghi), who occasionally sells them at the Wednesday Santa Monica and Sunday Hollywood farmers markets. Includes a recipe for: Grilled matsutake mushrooms A moveable feast See what's cooking around town: tastings, restaurant events, cooking classes and more. Crisp, cool and current / by Barbara Hansen Restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila likes the "earthy cauliflower taste and slight crunch" of the shaved cauliflower salad that chef Chris Kidder makes at Literati II. Kidder sparks up the flavor with green olives, sweet pickled onion and a lemony vinaigrette. Big bucks for a slice of the pizza / by Corie Brown Want to get in on Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali's buzzed-about new restaurant? It'll cost you plenty. There's a discussion thread about this topic: Nancy Silverton & Mario Batali Cantonese, redefined / by S. Irene Virbila Triumphal Palace in Alhambra is given a 3* rating. At Triumphal Palace in Alhambra, each dish is flawlessly executed. The dim sum is meticulous, the roast pig sublime. Lighted by soft, molded glass fixtures covered with a Chinese lattice, this is not your typical Chinese restaurant. Even the service, from the manager down to the runners and bus staff, is exceptional for any restaurant, and highly unusual for a Chinese restaurant. WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2004 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre: Loire Valley; about $22; crisp and aromatic; goes with oysters, steamed mussels, seared scallops, sautéed squid and other seafood.The 2004 from Hippolyte Reverdy, always one of the best producers in Sancerre, is absolute textbook Sauvignon Blanc. For the record Four Oaks co-owner — An article last Wednesday about restaurant closures misspelled the last name of Four Oaks co-owner Larry Braun, a Los Angeles attorney, as Brown. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday The real beauty of it is ... / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Bella in Hollywood. The owners of Dolce and Geisha House open up their latest addition, Italian-American that's open till midnight on weekends. Bella looks the part of urban red sauce Italian restaurant. Now that it's got the part — and the audience — the kitchen needs to hunker down and get serious with the cucina. Red sauce Italian / by Leslee Komaiko Truffle-accented risotto and delicate pumpkin-stuffed ravioli are all well and good. But sometimes you just want a big plate of spaghetti. Includes five restaurants: Dan Tana's on Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood; Carmine's II on Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A.; Mama D's on Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach; Maggiano's Little Italy on The Grove Drive, L.A.; Jacopo's on N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills.

Not to be outdone, the LA Times article, Big bucks for a slice of the pizza / by Corie Brown, includes this tidbit:

Here's an update from the LA Daily News (10 Oct. 2005) on the Mario Batali & Nancy Silverton restaurant partnership: Super Mario on the move / by Natalie Haughton

Last month, my extended family celebrated my nephew's birthday at my brother's house. The menu was mostly Chinese dishes, some American, served buffet style. Some things were bought (roast duck, soy sauce chicken, roast pork, birthday cakes); some cooked at home (prime rib, Chinese vegetables, almond jello, mango pudding). For dessert, the birthday cakes were a mango cake & a large fruit tart, both from a really good Cuban bakery in Glendale. Chinese desserts tend to have more fruit and less sugar, not as sweet.

Where in California do you live? I lived in LA for 15 years and could buy it in local Trader Joes. Now I am here in Northern California and most Whole Foods and Trader Joes carry it... ← Also at Costco, at least in Southern California ... After work, I usually get a package of La Bread Bakery baguettes, still warm. Just add some butter ...

Here's my digest entry on the couscous article in the LA Times (5 Oct. 2005): Marrakesh express / by Charles Perry The article makes it clear: Steam the couscous!

LA Times Food Section -- October 5, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Marrakesh express / by Charles Perry Couscous done right (think steam) opens up a world of delicious possibilities. These possibilities are explained by several couscous notables, including Adel Chagar of Chameau restaurant, Michel Ohayon of Koutoubia in Westwood and, of course, Paula Wolfert ... Includes three recipes: Couscous with seven vegetables; Lamb tagine; Steamed couscous There is a discussion thread about this topic: couscous, what are the regional differences Midnight supper / by Susan LaTempa After a night on the town, bring the party home for easy dishes that really satisfy. Includes three recipes: Mini curry burgers with chutney and dipping sauce; Macaroni and cheese; Wild mushroom frittata Incredible shrinking restaurant scene (LA Times link) ; Incredible shrinking restaurant scene (Calendarlive link) / by Corie Brown Fifteen places close in a matter of months. And autumn's usual flurry of openings? Not this year. Los Angeles can be a very tough, unforgiving restaurant town. Add the problems of traffic and a soft economy and you can hear dining room doors closed. Where Malbec's on the rise (first link) ; Where Malbec's on the rise (alternate link) / by Corie Brown In Argentina premier wine region, a wine blessed by Mother Earth. Matías Mayol, along with other Argentine vinters, are making Malbec wine in Mendoza. As per James Wolpert, chairman of viticulture and enology at UC Davis: "It's Argentina's turn to knock us out of our chairs. And they are doing it with a grape that no one's ever done it with before." Lively Malbecs from Mendoza / by Leslie Brenner THE Times tasting panel met last week to blind-taste current releases of Malbecs from Argentina's Mendoza region. On the panel were restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila, columnist Russ Parsons, staff writer Corie Brown, deputy food editor Betty Baboujon and George Cossette, co-owner of Silverlake Wines. Generally, the panel was impressed with these wines, which were from the 2000 through 2004 vintages. She pushed these caramels to the edge / by Cindy Dorn WHEN Christine Moore left her job as a pastry chef at Les Deux Cafés to stay home with her baby in 1999, she started fiddling around with sugar and fire. Eventually she came up with extraordinary sea salt caramels — she pushes the salty-sweet balance to the edge — that are blissfully silky and chewy. Right for the job / by Betty Baboujon With this stainless-steel couscoussier, every puff of steam rises to the occasion: making fluffy couscous. Hey, big spender / by S. Irene Virbila Sterling Steakhouse in Hollywood is given a ½* (half a star) rating. The owners behind White Lotus and Pig 'n Whistle opened up Sterling on Ivar with executive chef Andrew Pastore. Virbila comments, It all started out so very well ... What's really awesome, incredibly so, is that a steakhouse would take advantage of its diners' goodwill. But that's what's happening here. WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2003 Belle Pente Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon: Willamette Valley; about $19; smooth and silky; goes with fish soup, roast chicken, grilled lamb chops or a tagine. Lightly perfumed, it's silk in the mouth, ... LETTER TO THE EDITOR A boundless fall harvest “I'M not a cook, have several dietary limitations, and, though I glance over the Food section, I seldom read an entire article. An exception was Russ Parson's wonderful article on autumn's bounty ["Sweet Autumn," Sept. 28] and what to do with it.” *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday A cookout on the Strip / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Norman's at the Sunset Millienium complex in West Hollywood. Virbila receives an e-mail which says: “NORMAN'S IS DOING A PIG ROAST ON FRIDAY NIGHTS. WANT TO GO?” The 55-pounder pig serves 35-45 people, so reservations is a must. And the paella just seals the deal ... Pushing to Make the A-List / by David Pierson Chinese American community leaders are working to alter the attitudes of restaurant owners and patrons regarding food safety. This article is a follow-up to last week's article, Where 'A' is Not on the Menu. [City of Walnut Councilman Joaquin] Lim and a consortium of mostly Chinese American community leaders formed a group to try to change the way diners and restaurant owners view food safety. There are three related discussion threads: Health Code Ratings ; LA Chinese Restaurants and Hygiene A place to hang your trucker cap / by Dog Davis Rally’s two newest items don’t stray from their down-home aesthetic: the Jim Beam Double Cheddarburger and Cheddar Chicken Sandwich. Strip tease / by Leslee Komaiko There's more to the Sunset Strip than clubs and bars. Bypass the velvet rope and check out one of these swell dinner spots. Includes five restaurants: The Tower Bar, 8300 block; Il Sole, 8700 block; Restaurant at the Standard Hollywood, 8300 block; Talesai, 9000 block; Café Med, 8600 block.

Here's the link to the LA Times Food Section Digest (28 Sept. 2005) Here's my brief introduction to the LA Times article:

Here's the link to the LA Times Food Section Digest (28 Sept. 2005) A letter was written in response to an LA Times article:

Here's a link to the LA Times Food Section Digest (28 Sept. 2005). "Where 'A' is Not on the Menu" / by David Pierson Here's my brief introduction about the article:

LA Times Food Section -- September 28, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Sweet autumn / by Russ Parsons With harvest comes a new year of cooking: honeyed, savory and truly harmonious. Fruits, with a honeyed sweetness, seem so appropriate with the Jewish New Year (Rosh Hashanah) beginning next week. Don't forget the late-summer holdovers like tomatoes and red peppers. AND then there are the nuts, for which I go, well, you know. Includes three recipes: Duck braised with quince and sour cherries; Fennel and red onion salad with pickled figs; Asian pear crisp with almond topping Julie, unplugged / by Max Withers The blogger's year of culinary trial and error morphs into a memoir -- but is that such a good thing? Enter Julie Powell. In August 2002, the 29-year-old decided to cook all 524 recipes in Julia Child's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" in the next year — and write all about it on the Internet in her blog. Now, the blog turns into a book -- "Julie & Julia: 365 Days, 524 Recipes, 1 Tiny Apartment Kitchen." Includes two recipes: Pot-au-feu; Crêpes suzette There's a discussion thread about this topic: The Julie/Julia Project, Hilarious Finally, a winery in Bel-Air / by Corie Brown Is its product good enough to become one of California's most expensive wines? Located in a narrow Bel-Air canyon that runs parallel to Interstate 405 is Moraga Vineyards, Los Angeles' lone commercial wine grape grower, owned by Tom Jones, former chief executive of Northrop Corp. for 30 years before retiring in 1990. It's not until the vineyards' wooden driveway gate swings open that there's any clue that these hills are home to one of California's most highly regarded Cabernets. Rugged spirit's rebirth / by Charles Perry We'll give it to you straight: Rye, the whiskey of George Washington, is back in vogue. And besides, it's a patriotic drink than rum, because back then, rye required no trade with England ... Includes a recipe for Ward 8; and the side article, ”Sipping ryes: rare and well-done” Fresh fall flavors with a bit of bite / by Barbara Hansen Dear SOS: I had the most delicious, garlic-rich soupe au pistou with amaranth and Parmesan bread crumbs at Lucques in Los Angeles. It had a crunchy topping with a sweet garlic taste. I would be thrilled if you could get this recipe. Now we're seeing double / by Leslee Komaiko The Polo Lounge's signature dish has a twin -- at The Blvd. Apparently, the McCarthy salad is available at the Polo Lounge in Beverly Hills, as well as at The Blvd., the 6-month-old restaurant in the Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel a few blocks away. Back to the beginning / by Linda Burum It's no trick of the eyes. Grill Lyon has returned to Little Toyko, serving elegant classics at affordable prices. Chef Tadayoshi Matsuno and his wife, Keiko, first appeared on the LA restaurant scene back in 1981 with their Franco-Japanese cuisine. After many location changes, closings, and retirement in May 2001, the Matsunos have come out of retirement to open this Japanese-style French restaurant in the same Little Tokyo minimall in which it thrived for nearly a decade. Why? My hunch: The Matsunos want to introduce their son, Kiichi, a budding chef who apprenticed at his father's elbow. Crystal clear vision / by S. Irene Virbila Providence on Melrose is given a 3* rating. Michael Cimarusti hits his stride with seafood at Providence, site of the former Patina. As former head of Water Grill, he can let loose in the kitchen. Providence is the opposite of stuffy ... It's not a restaurant with a scene, at least not yet. Thankfully, it's all about food. WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2003 Château du Hureau Saumur-Champigny: Loire Valley; about $13; medium-bodied, earthy; goes with charcuterie, roast birds and simple grills. It's inexpensive enough for everyday, but interesting enough for company. Composed salad sightings around town I very much enjoyed the article about composed salads ["Salad, Compose Thyself," Sept. 21]. Here's the scoop on sauce spoon I thought you might enjoy some history on the creation of the sauce spoon ["Sauce Spoon Sighting!" Aug. 24]. There is a discussion thread about this topic: Silverware for the fish course Recipe offends, in context I was dismayed to find a recipe for veal ["The Vitello of Her Dreams," Sept. 21] in the same issue that featured Deborah Koons Garcia pointing out the ways agribusiness tampers with food ["Don't Eat This Movie"]. Torturing baby animals simply because some people like the taste is, in my opinion, no different than business tampering with the food supply because they have a taste for money. 'Scotch geeks' and wine connoisseurs A review of a book about whiskey ["Scotch's History, Distilled," Sept. 14] referred to people who know something about Scotch whiskey as "Scotch geeks." A good year for adjectives WOW! Merlot is pliant, strong, supple, firm, dense, rich, chewy, dusty, tender, opulent, voluptuous, charming and approachable! ["Everybody Hates Merlot," Sept. 21] Who knew?! *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Community property / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Il Piccolino in West Hollywood. Silvio De Mori decided to team up with former Le Dome owner Eddie Kerkhofs and bought out the owner of the restaurant on Robertson Blvd. The menu is basically the same, with a couple of De Mori's additions. Hidden behind its exuberant foliage, Il Piccolino waits for its big moment. Where 'A' is Not on the Menu / by David Pierson Chinese eateries in an L.A. County enclave struggle with hygiene ratings. An inspector knows the challenges unique to the cuisine. Because Los Angeles County health officer Siu-Man Chiu is Chinese, a Hong Kong native. There are two related discussion threads: Health Code Ratings and LA Chinese Restaurants The big tent / by Leslee Komaiko Tent dining might conjure up thoughts of wieners and trail mix or cotton candy and peanuts. But at these SoCal spots, it's more like drama and romance. Includes five restaurants: Twin Palms on W. Green St., Pasadena; Falcon on Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; Lucques on Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; Firefly Bistro on El Centro St., South Pasadena; Koutoubia on Westwood Blvd., Westwood.

Bond Girl, could you define "low key"? I presume you mean no trendy "scene" or "buzz", right? Popular, but quiet, where you can have a conversation? What kind of food? High end? Retro? New American? Ethnic? Small "mom & pop" operations in mini-malls? Pink's hot dogs? If you're staying in Weho, there are PLENTY of restaurants in the area along Santa Monica Blvd., as well as Beverly Hills and all along 3rd St. or Beverly Blvd. or Melrose or La Brea. A couple of places I like are: La Terza on 3rd St. & Orlando (SE corner). Gino Angelini is arguably the best Italian chef in Los Angeles. Grace on Beverly Blvd., east of Farmer's Market/The Grove, near El Coyote (Don't go there). If you go to Grace on a Sunday night, there's an eGulleteer working BOH ... (no, not me) ... Enjoy your time in LA!

Listen here, Mr. Tourist/Photographer!! I took four pictures from that evening, while you took umpteen million photos (well, at least more than four ...). Mind you, just to humor you, I'll put up my four pictures here. I'll expect better from you ... rjwong's photos from Chapter 8 in Agoura Hills: I like the food better at Chapter 8 than at Dakota in Hollywood. Mind you, I prefer the decor & scene over at Dakota, with its dark tones & more sophisticated style, as well as the overall vibe inside the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel.

Agoura Hills? I might have to bring my passport. It's so far away. ← The drive from Glendale (north of downtown LA) to Agoura Hills (next to the Ventura County line) wasn't too bad. And I didn't need to bring along my passport ... Chapter 8 is a steakhouse & dance lounge in the Agoura Hills/Thousand Oaks area, along the 101 freeway. On a Monday night, it was dead quiet, which is a good thing to me because ... "I just came for the food" ... Ore, FoodZealot, a couple of their friends & yours truly decided to try out this place where Ore works. Mind you, we had dinner on Ore's night off, so he didn't cook for us. We all had a wonderful time, but let me focus on the food, namely my dinner. I'll let the others describe their dinners, if they wish. I had the roast beet salad layered with crescenza cheese, accompanied by a grilled peach, displayed in an artful presentation with a fruit sauce, sprinkled with pumpkin seeds. The salad wasn't bad. I might have enjoyed a stronger cheese, like a blue cheese, for contrast. Mind you, the grilled peach added a little contrast, though. I ordered the NY strip. This steak had a nice flavor, quite juicy. It wasn't hot enough, temperature hot, that is. Obviously, Ore wasn't cooking that night, right Ore?? Along with the steak were the two sides I ordered: macaroni & cheese, and summer squashes. The mac & cheese had sharp cheddar cheese, which I really liked, topped with chopped pancetta, which definitely gave it some flavor. The squashes were a nice change from the "usual suspects" of vegetable medleys. Whole, baby-sized squashes served in a generous portion to share with others. I enjoyed the food at Chapter 8. Going to this steakhouse on a Monday night would be ideal to avoid the crowd and the scene, which apparently rises to insane levels during the weekend.

LA Times Food Section -- September 21, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Unsideways: the tour / by Ann Herold Don't let Miles and the crowds put you off -- Santa Ynez wine country can still enchant. A wine lover leads us up the road less traveled to her favorite spots. While Napa has the famous names, Santa Ynez has proximity and soul, where ... the temperamental Pinot Noir grape flourishes, along with Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, ... Autumn is a wonderful time to take a wine tour of the Santa Ynez valley's best producers, which are not the “stars” from the movie. Herold calls it the “Unsideways tour.” Includes the side article, ”Where to go” Salad, compose thyself / by Leslie Brenner COULD it be a conspiracy? Where can one find a true salade composée in Los Angeles for lunch, besides the usual salade niçoise? And the Cobb salad looks like a salade composée. Mind you, you wouldn't eat it until it is tossed. The solution? If we can't find composed salads in restaurants, at least we can make them at home. Includes three recipes: Composed salad with tuna and cannellini beans; Japanese barbecue salmon salad; Roasted beets with Cabrales blue cheese, endives and walnuts Everybody hates Merlot / by Patrick Comiskey But that leaves more for those who know that when the terroir is right, it's among the best wines in the world. While Bordeaux's Right Bank commune of Pomerol produces Château Petrus, arguably the world's greatest Merlot, there is one California region, Carneros, which ... might soon rival the Right Bank as a place where the Merlot is much better than not bad: It's legitimately great. Includes the side article, ”Getting serious about Merlot” Rolling in serious dough / by David Colker Take the country's top bread bakers and a couple of hundred devotees, and you've got loaves to die for. Camp Bread 2005, sponsored by the Bread Bakers Guild of America, brought together bakers from the U.S. and Canada last week for three days of demonstrations, seminars, and plenty of hands-on classes taught by some of the superstars of bread, like Peter Reinhart, Jeffrey Hamelman and legendary teacher Didier Rosada. Includes a recipe for ciabatta; and the side article, ”Great bread by the book” Don't eat this movie / by Corie Brown A Q&A with Deborah Koons Garcia about her polemical documentary on Frankenfoods. In her provocative documentary, "The Future of Food," filmmaker Deborah Koons Garcia lays out this doomsday scenario: AMERICAN agribusiness, hellbent on controlling the Earth's food supply, has unleashed genetically engineered plants that are taking over family farms and threatening the health of the nation. A serving of gossip from great chefs? We'll bite / by Russ Parsons Russ Parsons, culinary gossip columnist?? I would have never known. Pardon my indulgence ... Actually, Kimberly Witherspoon and Andrew Friedman collected some of the best kitchen war stories in their new book, "Don't Try This at Home, ” complete with many familiar names in the restaurant world: Ferran Adrià, Heston Blumenthal, Tom Colicchio, Claudia Fleming, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, ... and of course, Anthony Bourdain ... Some of the things chefs have to do to "win" — to get the food on the table — are astonishing. They demonstrate that culinary creativity sometimes has as much to do with Sgt. Bilko as Fernand Point. The vitello of her dreams / by Barbara Hansen Dear SOS: The Friday night special roasted veal at Angelini Osteria is so wonderful that it sells out quite early. I don't know how complicated it is to make, but whatever it takes, I'm ready. A micro-manager / by David Colker Now available: the portable Durascale 50 weighs yeast down to a hundredth of a gram or ounce, for the obsessive amongst us. A sushi master with flair / by S. Irene Virbila Bluefin in Newport Coast is given a 2½* rating. Chef Takashi Abe has found a lucky spot in quiet Orange County. And his former customers from Abe in Newport Beach has followed him to Crystal Cove Promenade. Abe really knows his fish and takes the time and effort to acquire the best. The evidence is right there on the plate and most obvious in sashimi, where there's nothing to disguise the pure taste of the raw fish. WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2004 Sineann Gewürztraminer Celilo Vineyard: Columbia Gorge, Oregon; about $19; more floral than spicy; goes with Asian food, stir-fried prawns, fragrant curries, satays and noodle dishes. More floral than spicy, it has a perky acidity and lovely balance. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday One big garden party / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Wilshire (the restaurant). With tree-canopied dining, the latest Thomas Schoos-designed room and a menu from chef Christopher Blobaum built around organic produce from the Santa Monica farmers market, Wilshire is now the hot new address. This New American restaurant is located on Wilshire & 25th in Santa Monica at the former Black Forest Inn. Modern American / by Leslee Komaiko A little bit edgy, a little bit adventurous, the following restaurants are, at their roots, American. Includes five restaurants: Josie on Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; Bistango on Von Karman Ave., Irvine; Grace on Beverly Blvd., L.A.; Avenue on Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach; Beechwood on W. Washington Blvd., Venice.

Agoura Hills? I might have to bring my passport. It's so far away.

that's indeed too bad..... ethnocentric editors.... milagai ← Milagai, now let's not pre-judge the guilty ... I think Triangle dining is progressing wonderfully, perhaps a little bit slower for your taste. When I was studying over at Chapel Hill in fall 1987, I remember, during one weekend, seeing a long line going out the store down onto Franklin. It happen to be the grand opening of a eating establishment called ... Taco Bell ...