rjwong

I went to Water Grill a week ago Thurs. night, now under Executive Chef David LeFevre, protègé of Charlie Trotter. Ever since LeFevre became the new Exec Chef, there were a couple of articles that featured him, including one written by Russ Parsons. But no review on Water Grill. I had a feeling that the LA Times food critic S. Irene Virbila was going to have a major review really soon. So off I went ... That evening, I decided to begin with the White Chowder with Manila Clams, Weiser Farm Potatoes, Niman Ranch Applewood Smoked Bacon. Normally, I like my clam chowder pretty thick and creamy, what one typically finds in restaurants & diners. This clam chowder was served in a very flavorful broth, with bacon and finely-cut vegetables. The clams were in their shells. A tiny fork was provided to dig out the clams, as well a pewter bowl to discard the shells. I enjoyed that soup! For the main course, I had the Slow Steamed Alaskan Halibut Steamed with White Wine, Coriander and Fennel Spiced Artichokes with Kalamata Olive Puree, accompanied with a glass of Brander Sauvignon Blanc. The Russ Parsons article was about this cooking technique which LeFevre demonstrated in the article. The halibut was indeed moist. It's amazing how a simple technique can produce such wonderful results. The pistachio financier with cooked peaches was good, nothing spectacular. The yogurt sorbet had a nice tang to it. The service was enjoyably interactive. Some servers may need more fluidity in answering questions than just memorizing menu descriptions. Mind you, the service I received was quite professional. As I was departing, I saw David LeFevre walking around the restaurant, followed by a man with photography equipment. Then I thought to myself, Ah ha! The review on Water Grill is coming out next week. And it did. Here's the link to the review: Water Grill's crucial moment / by S. Irene Virbila. The bottom line: Water Grill was given a 2½* rating (formerly a 3½* rating) That was my first time at Water Grill. I never ate there under LeFevre's predecessor, Michael Cimarusti. Overall, I would recommend this place. It's definitely one of the best places in downtown LA.

Melissa, I am very intrigued by that statement. Would you expound on your husband's course? Is he another Alton Brown??

Thank you, Melissa! It's nice to read about the "other" New York (no offense, please). As someone from the Left Coast, I'm more familiar with New York City, especially after Pan's wonderful foodblog in NYNY.

LA Times Food Section -- July 20, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Mini explosion / by Russ Parsons They may be tiny, but these tomatoes are bursting with flavor. And now they're everywhere. Apparently, bigger is not better when it comes to these miniature tomatoes that are the new rage. They are sweeter than the regular-size tomatoes and last longer after being picked. And yes, they're cute. Includes three recipes: Grilled sardines with confited tomatoes; Tomato and white bean salad; Petrale sole with tomato butter Who put the fizz in the Shiraz? / by Leslie Brenner At a dinner party on the terrace of their hillside Silver Lake home, some friends served a prettily fizzy Moscato d'Asti with dessert, a dreamy strawberry shortcake. The whole evening was effervescent — the table lovely, the company wonderful — and we could hear fireworks going off, where, Dodger Stadium? People this summer are enjoying more bubbling beverages: ... sparkling reds from Lombardy, ... fizzy rosés ... And now, even sake -- yes, sake! -- sparkles. Includes the side article, ”Favorites, from the Champagne of sakes to the deepest purple sparklers” Instant intensity / by Regina Schrambling Please, don't even think of holding the anchovies. Chopped, melted or baked into a tart, they bring serious depth to summer dishes. Anchovies provide that quick flavor that's suited for the hot summer seasson. Used right, there's nothing fishy about them. Includes three recipes: Piquillo-potato salad with anchovies and eggs; Pissaladière; Bruschetta puttanesca Garlicky, not gimmicky / by Linda Burum At Gorikee, the garlic is subtle, the dishes creative and the neighborhood lucky. Chef-owner Atsuhiro Tsuji operates this polished Cal-Mediterranean neighborhood restaurant over in Woodland Hills. Food of this caliber, cooked by the Japanese-born, classically French-trained chef, keeps West Valley residents from driving over the hill to the Westside. Goodells' adieu to Aubergine / by Corie Brown Tim & Liza Goodell are selling their signature French restaurant Aubergine in Newport Beach ... Wolfgang Puck's Granita in Malibu will be closing in September ... Pinot Hollywood has closed after 10 years ... Jamie DeRosa is now executive chef at Campanile, working alongside Mark Peel. Perfect for the picking / by Russ Parsons Tiny or tremendous, the most satisfying tomatoes come from the garden. Here's some expert advice. But don't expect the experts to all agree on everything from the amount of water to when to water to spacing to fertilizing. So, what can all these tomato growers probably agree on? ... even the worst home-grown tiny tomato beats most anything you can but at the store. Fresh from the sea and the market / by Barbara Hansen Dear SOS: My husband and I recently discovered Violet, a little neighborhood restaurant in Santa Monica that is truly outstanding. The dish that really stood out for us was seared scallops with vanilla risotto and baby artichokes. The flavors and textures were perfection. Water Grill's crucial moment / by S. Irene Virbila Water Grill under chef David LeFevre in downtown LA is given a 2½* rating. Virbila reviews this downtown seafood restaurant in terms of AC, namely After Cimarusti, as in Michael Cimarusti, LeFevre's predecessor. The new Water Grill is still finding its footing as it makes the transition from the old to the new ... LeFevre has to be left free to find his own voice ... WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2004 Commanderie de Peyrassol Côtes de Provence rosé, France: Provence; about $15; dry and full-flavored; goes with olives, salads, grilled shrimp and chicken. Provence hasn't seen such a terrific vintage for rosés in decades; I can't stop collecting and drinking them. LETTERS A Tahitian take on ceviche While visiting Moorea, Tahiti, for the first time in 1998, I ordered a ceviche-like dish that Tahitians called poisson cru and Maori Cook Islanders referred to as ika mata. Finally, a toast to lighter wines Thanks to Patrick Comiskey for his "Raise a Glass to Lunch" [July 6]. I'm so glad to finally see food and wine writers addressing the appropriateness of lower-alcohol wines. I gave up drinking California wines years ago after traveling to Europe and enjoying wines that were wonderfully fresh, light and didn't make you feel like a zombie. What is this fascination California vintners have with making every vintage so "big" it knocks you out? What are they trying to prove? *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Great steak, a few beefs / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Sterling Steakhouse in Hollywood. The owners of White Lotus and Pig 'n Whistle now have this hip steakhouse, with ... plenty of prime aged beef and attitude-free service from smart waitresses in flirty black dresses. Chopping spree / by Leslee Komaiko It has always mystified us that the simple act of chopping ingredients transforms a salad from ho hum to yum yum — but we're believers. Long live the chopped salad! Includes five restaurants: Polo Lounge in Beverly Hills; Border Grill in Santa Monica; Firefly Bistro in South Pasadena; Jar on Beverly Blvd.; La Scala in Beverly Hills.

ditsydine, I understand your situation. I'm single and used to be poor until I was fortunate enough to get a good-paying job. First, follow everybody's advice, within reason of course. In terms of appliances, if it's possible within your budget at this time, get a crock pot and a bunch of small plastic containers for the freezer. That will free up your time tremendously. Soups and stews can be cooking away while you're away at work. And when you get home, the only prep you need to do is your salad and dinner is served! The leftovers can be portioned out into the containers and put into the freezer. Instead of buying frozen meals, make your own frozen meals!! I hope this helps.

Good for you. As for artsy things, there's also Norton Simon Museum and the Huntington Library. The King Tut exhibit is here in Los Angeles. I'll try and find a link to that. For a $3 day pass, you can ride the Metro Gold Line from Pasadena to downtown LA. Downtown LA is changing ... for the better ... You are wise to fly into Burbank. The dumplings at Din Tai Fung in Arcadia (east of Pasadena) are very good and very fresh. I'm more familiar with the traditional Cantonese-style dim sum that you can find in downtown LA. As for Pasadena itself, there are many restaurants along Colorado Blvd. in Old Town, a lot of chains, a lot of SABS (See And Be Seen). The food at Roscoe's on Lake Ave. in Pasadena is pretty good. I usually go for Scoe's #1. The ambiance is a bit ... suburban, which is all right. Mind you, the atmosphere at Roscoe's on Gower in Hollywood is completely different, especially with the bouncer outside the door ... Personally, I haven't eaten at that many places in Pasadena. Even though communities in the LA area are sort of spread out, there are many culinary possibilities nearby Pasadena, like Raffi & Zankou Chicken in Glendale, Osteria Nonni in Atwater Village, Cafe Beaujolais & Casa Bianca in Eagle Rock, and Shiro in South Pasadena, just to name a few. If you want, I can do some quick research on Pasadena for you. If I come up with more ideas, I'll let you know.

Thank you, Michael. I enjoyed this vicarious vacation of sorts. I'll definitely continue to cook, as well as eat out. Just call it planned spontaneity ... Ting Ting Jahe candies will be waiting for you when you arrive in Los Angeles later. Nice photo of you, Michael. Add a flute and that can become a great jazz flute album cover, a la Rampal ... See you later, Russell

Michael, Did you buy some more Ting Ting Jahe? I don't want you going through withdrawals ... Okay, your foodblog did it. I'll give New York a chance, ONLY if you come out to Los Angeles to "seal the deal." I can imagine myself eating out a few times. I probably wouldn't go out as much as you did. Ever thought of being a food critic, Michael? Mind you, I'd still want to cook.

Pan, I have a bag of Ting Ting Jahe, if you want to come over and get some ... Just how many bags do you buy at one time? You definitely need to replenish your supplies. How about a little Chinese shopping? And bring the camera, please ... That was an adventurous Chinese dinner, for me! How did the tripe taste? Tender? Chewy? Rubbery? You really like your food very spicy, ehh?? You would probably consider Cantonese food very ... uhh ... bland and boring. If the opportunity arises, would you cook for yourself and/or others? Why/why not? BTW, you're doing a very good job convincing this LALA foodie to give NYNY a chance.

What perfect timing! This week's LA Times Food Section Digest (13 July 2005) has a link to an article on fresh garbanzo beans.

You must like them more than I do. When I saw the photo you posted of those ginger candies, I noticed that the price tag was a lot lower than what I pay here in L.A. (about over $1). I, too, agree on its throat-soothing properties. Do you like eating ginger in other forms?

LA Times Food Section -- July 13, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Extravaganza, baby! / by S. Irene Virbila Vegas' latest wave of luxe restaurants takes opulent dining to a whole new level Critic's notebook on Las Vegas' latest wave of high-end restaurants. Included in the group are Alain Ducasse's Mix on the 64th floor at Mandalay Bay and the power restaurant line-up at Steve Wynn's eponymous resort: Takashi Yagihashi's Okada; Alex Stratta's Alex; Paul Bartolotta's Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare; Daniel Boulud Brasserie. If you think Vegas has hit the limit, three more chefs are on their way: Guy Savoy at Caesar's; Joel Robuchon and his two restaurants at the MGM Grand; and Mario Batali at the Venetian. Includes the side article, ”The hottest new tables” Hello, garbanzo, is that you? / by Barbara Hansen Fresh and green, they're chickpeas, all right. And what a delight to finally meet them! Fresh garbanzo beans -- not edamame, not favas -- are a nice addition to a summery, light dish. And it doesn't need hours of soaking and boiling. Includes five recipes: Garbanzo-mushroom masala; Pan-roasted fresh garbanzo beans; Steamed fresh garbanzo beans; Garbanzos rancheros; Tomato, fennel, fresh garbanzo and olive bread salad There is a discussion thread on fresh garbanzo beans here. A new shell game / by Donna Deane Thanks to advances in shellfish aquaculture, high-quality live mollusks are more readily available than ever, year-round. Shellfish from PEI, New Zealand, Maine, Pacific Northwest, and Cape Cod are all available here in L.A. The possibilities are endless ... Includes three recipes: Shellfish with lemon grass; Mussels, clams and periwinkles in miso broth; Manila clams with chorizo Summer beer breezes in / by Susan LaTempa This year's seasonal brews include pale ales, wheat beers and even a sweet Mexican-style beer. Grab a cold one before they're gone. Includes the side article, “Now ready for quaffing”, a tasting of eight West Coast craft brewery summer-release beers available in the L.A. area. And the winner is: Sierra Nevada Summerfest (about $7-9 per six-pack). Music to my cauliflower / by Leslie Brenner Thursday is Bastille Day — or le 14 Juillet, as it's known in France. For me, that's cause to think about French food. The French definitely love their food as much as they love their slang. And their slang is food-related. So, when Brenner bemoans the fact that she & her family won't be going to France this summer, she exclaims, It's tough for me to get it into my zucchini that we don't have enough sorrel to go this year. Our rear ends aren't exactly surrounded by noodles. Includes a list of favorite slangs titled, “Don't be a noodle -- send the sauce” (Don't be an idiot -- make an effort) There is a discussion thread on this article here. Chefs who really make dishes pop / by Leslee Komaiko Bastide's Ludovic Lefebvre is among the chefs sneaking soda pop and popcorn into the dining room. Imagine marinating a whole chicken for 48 hours ... in Pepsi ... then braising it?? Or how about some mad science: Lefebvre freezes Nehi with liquid nitrogen to make a creamy topping for a hot chocolate soufflé. This oasis of Gallic charm is no mirage / by S. Irene Virbila The one place on the Strip where I long to eat every time I come to Vegas is Thomas Keller's Bouchon in the Venetian. This grander version of Keller's Yountville-based Bouchon serves perfect French bistro food. Wouldn't it be lovely if this bistro were, say, 270 miles closer? A Korean side dish with bite / by Barbara Hansen Food editor Leslie Brenner discovered this fabulous, easy-to-do take on a Korean rice dish at Yu Restaurant & Lounge in Santa Monica. Korean-born, French-trained chef Andrew deGroot loves the spicy, complex flavors of kimchi rice and spent years sampling home-cooked dishes and restaurant versions before coming up with his own. At the crossroads of elegance / by S. Irene Virbila The Blvd at the Regent Beverly Wilshire is given a 2* rating. Within the fabled Regent Beverly Wilshire, The Blvd has arrived as a dining destination. The hotel has revamped its casual restaurant with a sophisticated room with its tall wood-clad pillars, Lalique sconces and cozy sofas. Besides the backlighted wall of wine bottles, a half a dozen choices of water from around the world are available. Chef Scott Thomas Dolbee has created a menu that wonderfully suits a casual hotel restaurant. It's a new kitchen and sometimes the execution suffers. WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2003 J. Palacios Pétalos del Bierzo: Bierzo, Spain; about $16; elegant and smooth; goes with the usual: grilled and braised meats, summer barbecues. Bottled unfiltered and unfined, the Pétalos del Bierzo oozes character. This wine is worth twice the price. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday L.A.'s French impressions / by Valli Herman It's Bastille Day, when everyone can be a Parisian at heart. And in Southern California, you can go Gallic at beaucoup cafes and shops. Despite the estimated 30,000 French natives who populate L.A., there is no central French neighborhood. Instead, the region is dotted with isolated hubs that provide a constant but low-profile Gallic presence. So, where do the native French in Los Angeles go to dine and shop? The Directory: All things French And good for you / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on M Café de Chaya on Melrose. Shigefumi Tachibe, the genie behind Chaya Brasserie and Chaya Venice, has created restaruant and the surprise is that everything's macrobiotic. Macrobiotic never tasted so good. This is very skilled, very clever stuff, light-years away from the leaden breads you had to chew all day to get down ... Nerdy, not authentic, but totally awesome / by Dog Davis In a geek's world, Taco Bell's Crunchwrap Supreme is the Napoleon Dynamite of fast food. Beyond alfalfa sprouts / by Leslee Komaiko Health food used to mean some sorry combination of seeds and sprouts. Not anymore. Los Angeles chefs and restaurants have raised the bar. Includes five restaurants: Madeleine Bistro on Ventura Blvd. in Tarzana; Vegan Glory on Beverly Blvd.; The Peninsula Hotel on Santa Monica Blvd. South in Beverly Hills; Real Food Daily on La Cienega Blvd.; Inaka on La Brea Ave.

Okay, Pan. I've never visited New York before, except for one cab ride from one airport to another airport in order to catch the last flight out to North Carolina back in 1987. Here's your opportunity to convince this foodie from LA-LA land to give NY-NY a chance.

Steven, could you detail that decision-making process where you gave up your career as a lawyer? What was the reactions of your family and friends? When the newpapers & magazines started picking you up, was that enough money to ... uhh ... pay the bills?? Also, about your father the "Professor": Did he spend much time with his academic colleagues? If not, did you find it peculiar he spent more time talking with "ordinary" people (for lack of a better phrase)??

It's been many, many years since I've eaten there. Sardine Factory EDITED to add: Here's a previous discussion thread on Restaurants in Monterey/Carmel area

LA Times food critic S. Irene Virbila reviewed Meson G, which received a 2½* rating. The link to the review can be found in the LA Times Food Section digest (6 July 2005)

LA Times Food Section -- July 6, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Ceviche, all jazzed up / by Susan LaTempa and Barbara Hansen Chefs are wowing diners with global riffs on the dish. Improvisation couldn't be easier. Combine seafood, citrus, and/or vegetables and you get ... ceviche. And it's not only found in Latin American restaurants anymore; it's gone global. When Suzanne Goin of Lucques makes ceviche, she'll admit, “I'm definitiely not a fusion person, but you're not so boxed in.” Includes three recipes: Mixed seafood ceviche; Mediterranean ceviche; Albacore ceviche salad Where mulberries reign / by Corie Brown A visit to an orchard of Persian mulberry trees is pure pleasure for one devoted fan of the hard to find fruit. When the mulberry season arrives in July and August, the demand is huge, especially at $10 per half a pound. Persian mulberries are explosively sweet, ... packing more pure flavor than a mouthful of ripe raspberries, blueberries and blackberries combined. Includes two recipes: Mulberry and fig tart; Apricot and mulberry crisp A rich twist on a family favorite / by Barbara Hansen Dear SOS: We frequently enjoy the food at Joan's on Third. My 7-year-old son especially loves the macaroni and cheese, as do I. Could you convince them to share the recipe? Raise a glass to lunch / by Patrick J. Comiskey Here is a fact that is so clear-cut and so obvious that it must simply be said: Any good lunch is made better with wine. I'm not talking about lunch with Carl Jr. or the Colonel or the King, and I'm not talking about a tub of yogurt and a Ziploc crammed with celery sticks, or anything that comes from a machine, or for that matter a lunch in any place that doesn't have wine or serve it. But I am talking about any civilized occasion, whether at home or at a restaurant, where lunch is something more than an act of snarfing. For any lunch that's lingered over, any lunch where food and conversation are spilling over the table, the meal's not complete without wine. Includes the side article, “Fresh and friendly” The flop, the fold, the pho / by Laurie Winer With terrific menus at bargain prices in the card rooms, local poker fiends are in fat city. Who would have thought that food so vibrant and fresh and carefully prepared in a very extensive menu that includes Asian dishes can be found in the poker card rooms of Southern California? For poker player Jean Gluck, ”Everything's fresh and cooked to order. It's like having my own private chef.” Includes the side article, ”How to feed your poker face” Sizzling skewers are just the beginning / by Susan LaTempa The menu says 'yakitori and other good things,' but that hardly does justice to Nanbankan. Nanbankan is located in West L.A. in an officey-looking building, with a facade that looks like a law firm. It's almost always busy and what draws people to this place is the yakitori, the Japanese tradition of grilling small pieces of meat, poultry and vegetables on skewers. The power and the story / by Corie Brown A long-awaited biography tells how Robert Parker became the most influential man in the wine world. Elin McCoy, 30-year veteran wine writer, has written the first full-length biography on Robert Parker, titled ”The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Reign of American Taste.” Brown considers the book a little more than a catalog of facts about Parker, a biography lacking insight and a larger context. For the best berry? Go local. Very local. / by Emily Green Growing most fruit is best left to farmers. It's a science, and they're better at it. Persian mulberries, also called black mulberries, are an exception to this rule. They are best grown at home, with as short a commute from bough to tongue as possible. Sandwich with a side of gambling chips / by Charles Perry As every "Jeopardy" contestant knows, the sandwich was invented during a 24-hour gambling binge, when John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich, demanded something he could eat without having to put his cards down. The idea spread like wildfire in 1762. Now, it's really stylin' / by S. Irene Virbila Meson G is given a 2½* rating. At Meson G, the kitchen hones its menu to court a growing audience. Virbila reiterates how Meson G is a work in progress, ... but the key word here is progress. Changes of chefs from Eric Greenspan to Josef Centeno, changes from small plates to big plates, and changes to a more simpler, user-friendly menu have resulted in successfully brilliant adjustments to Tim & Liza Goodell's hip and casual restaurant on Melrose Ave. There is a Meson G discussion thread here. WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2003 Château de Valcombe “Tradition,” Costières de Nîmes, France: Rhône Valley; about $8; gnarly and unfiltered; goes with grilled meats, bold flavors. This wine can take every big flavor you throw at it. LETTERS Mixers get a stress test As a relatively serious home bread baker, I read "The Mixer, All Revved Up" (June 22) with interest. Unfortunately, it seems to me that you just didn't get it. The tri-tip tips were really tops Thanks to Russ Parsons' tri-tip tips in your June 29 Food section ("Finally, the Tri-Tip of His Dreams"). I was able to relive many of my family's meals around the old Santa Maria barbecue wagon. For the record Parkway Grill building — A restaurant review in the June 22 Food section said Parkway Grill in Pasadena was in a Craftsman-style bungalow. Parkway Grill is housed in a 1920s brick building. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Casual, smart Thai / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Chadaka Thai. The owners of Rambutan Thai in Silver Lake have now opened a restaurant in ... “beautiful downtown Burbank.” The place is casual and the food caters more to the health-conscious, more to American than Thai tastes. And it's open until 11:00 p.m. Thai one on / by Leslee Komaiko L.A.'s love of Thai food is endless. Need a fix? Includes five restaurants: Café Talesai on W. Olympic Blvd. in Beverly Hills; Siam Cabin on Ventura Blvd. in Sherman Oaks; Noodle Planet on Westwood Blvd. in Westwood Village; Saladang on S. Fair Oaks Ave. in Pasadena; Chan Dara on W. Pico Blvd. in West L.A.

Yum-yum. Do you use Pistol Pete in your barbecue? Did it taste vinegary or sweet? Do you prefer your barbecued meat chopped or sliced? What was all in that Brunswick stew?

David, Do you know whether Scooter Canfer-Mill is still working there? As per the LA Times, she left Naya, and then was/is helping Joe out at his restaurant. Also, the LA Times critic did a recent review of Joe's. I get this "Joe seems to be missing. Where's Joe?" type of review. Do you know anything about this? I don't want to start any trouble. I just want some clarification, if possible ... No, it's not your computer. I use Netscape browser and got that miniature look.

LA Times Food Section -- June 29, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Finally, the tri-tip of his dreams / by Russ Parsons Santa Maria barbecue has always been great; here's how to make it even better, right in your own backyard. One of California's culinary heritage, Santa Maria barbecue can be found all along the Central Coast. Cooking the meat so it has just the right tinge of smoke but still remains moist requires walking a fine line ... Russ Parsons shows us how. Won't you, Russ? Includes four recipes: Cherry compote; Jicama slaw; Ranch-style beans; Ultimate tri-tip King of the grills / by John Balzar In five decades, the Weber kettle has gone from circular oddity to a defining symbol of American culture. It all started back in 1951, when George Stephen transformed a Chicago Harbor buoy into a lidded, grated and vented kettle that changed the world's concept of backyard cooking. Includes three recipes: Chicken under bricks; Grilled vegetables; Sassy barbecue sauce; and the side article, Master class What pairs well with eternal fire? / by Patrick J. Comiskey I haven't been to hell, but I've seen the floor plans, and I have to tell you, Satan's got one heck of a crib. It's said that his deck, perched on a bluff overlooking the Slough of Despond, has a million-dollar view, but what really inspires the sin of envy is his grill setup. With vegetables, fish, chicken, pork, lamb, ribs & brisket, and tri-tip, here are wine-pairing suggestions for the Seven Circles of Grilling, cribbed straight from Lucifer's notebook. Includes the side article, The descent from fresh and bright to dark and rich Bring these beauties to the barbecue / by Mary Ellen Rae Kissed by the flames, peaches, plums and apricots caramelize, deepening in flavor. It is no small wonder that the season for stone fruits pairs up nicely with grilling season. Includes three recipes: Pork tenderloin with grilled apricot salsa; Grilled peaches with Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise; Grilled Santa Rosa plums with mint sugar Local sauces that top the taste test / by Charles Perry Barbecue sauce bubbles over with good old American inventiveness .... Recently the Food section tasted as many local barbecue sauces as we could get our hands on, a total of 48 — hot ones, sharp ones, sweet ones and a few odd ducks, such as Seasonings' RoBeQue, flavored with root beer .... And we whittled down the list to our top nine. Cookstuff Russ Parsons mentions how to get pinquito beans from Rancho Gordo, among other places. Yes, they're both eGullet members ... Smoke gets in their eyes / by Leslee Komaiko Dominick's chef Brandon Boudet cooks just about anything over white oak. Down-home, in downtown L.A. / by Charles Perry It doesn't look like a barbecue joint, and the menu is a tad odd. But the Spring Street Smoke House knows its stuff. This place is owned by a catering company that's been around for over 30 years. Hickory-smoked BBQ meats with a more vinegary BBQ sauce. Located between LA's Chinatown and Olvera St. Scoop after exotic scoop / by Barbara Hansen Although ice cream is the easiest — and one of the tastiest — desserts in the world, it's hard to persuade yourself that you're doing something special for guests when you just scoop out some of what everyone has in the freezer at home. But any of these amazing exotic ice creams, with their seductive, unusual flavors such as orange blossom, sweet corn and smoke, will make a delicious impact. Discovered in Asian, Middle Eastern and Latino markets, they attest to the universal appeal of everybody's favorite frozen confection — and wrap up a barbecue with a bang. A peculiar mystery by the sea / by S. Irene Virbila Ivy at the Shore in Santa Monica is given a ½* rating. How do the beautiful people at the new Ivy at the Shore stay so slim? And why do they keep coming back? IPortions were huge, but rather unappetizing and flavorless. The wine list was quite expensive. I'm left wondering why this place is so popular. The food is marginally better at the original Ivy, not that most people really care ... Let's just call it one of L.A.'s unsolved mysteries. WINES OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2003 Floresta: Empordà-Costa Brava, Spain; about $10; fresh and juicy; goes with just about anything. A blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha (with Tempranillo having a slight edge), this fresh juicy red has a lot of character and complexity for 10 bucks. 2002 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba: Piedmont; $24; bright fruit and acidity; goes with baby back ribs, grilled chops and sausages. Ruby in color and extravagantly scented with blackberries, it has a firm structure along with beautiful fruit and acidity that sings. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday A providential patina / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Chef Michael Cimarusti's new restaurant Providence. Cimarusti and partner Donato Poto, former manager of Bastide, have finally opened at the former Patina site after much anticipation. The atmosphere is relaxed and ... fun. Now is the time to snag a reservation. The word is out, and on the night I went I spotted a chef or two checking out the competition. A Slurpee and a wrap, to go please / by Dog Davis Is 7-Eleven poised to become the new lunch hot spot? Fish is a favorite / by Leslee Komaiko This is a good town for fish lovers. We are blessed with many fish specialists, in a wide price range. Includes five restaurants: Fish Grill in Sherman Oaks; La Serenata de Garibaldi in Boyle Heights; I Cugini in Santa Monica; Delmonico's Seafood Grille on W. Pico Blvd.; McCormick & Schmick's on W. 5th St. in downtown LA.

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Have you considered making some Italian meatballs simmering in a crockpot for some meatball sandwiches? Mind you, you can't go wrong with prosciutto, especially if you buy them from Mario Batali's father's store Salumi.

maf, I'm sorry, but part of the deal in us Californians helping you all out with your vacation plans is that we get to vacation vicariously with you all, complete with photos of every meal, every food stop, etc. First, here's a link to a discussion thread that'll help you get started: California diners, recs for that long road trip Looking at your itinerary, You are driving all over the place! Am I correct to say that you'll be flying in to Crescent City to start your vacation? I hope you scheduled plenty of time to get to all of your destinations. From Crescent City, drive about 3 hours to the Eureka area for lunch/dinner (your main meal) at the Samoa Cookhouse. It's great! This is where the lumberjacks used to eat back during the old days of the lumber mills. For one price, you get soup, salad, homemade bread, 1-2 entrees, vegetables, coffee/tea, dessert, and SECONDS! In the restaurant is a mini museum that the kids will love. Question: when you said "Red Rock Canyon and then East," what do you mean by "East"? Driving into Nevada? Eastern Sierras? the Mojave Desert?? Depending on when your vacation begins, there are various food festivals going on, particularly along the 101, especially the Garlic Festival in Gilroy. maf, with all due respect, there is one food chain I must mention: In-N-Out Burgers. BTW, there is no Cracker Barrel Restaurants in California or Nevada at this time. You are correct: California is a BIG state!! If you can specify the cities/towns or at least the region you all be driving through, that would really help us help you. Enjoy your California vacation!

Click on this link for a review on MIX restaurant. You wanted MIX, not FIX, correct? The Alain Ducasse Restaurant? This is getting so confusing ...

ace92503, Welcome to the eGullet California forum!! Sorry for being so rude ... If you like breakfast places, try Maxwell's Cafe on Washington Blvd. & Walgrove Ave.