rjwong

EDITED: Article about David Kinch already mention upthread. Sorry.

Wendy, Do you make a men's dress shoe, size 11? Your blog is just excellent, Wendy! You have not failed. The time & effort you have put into this blog, especially after work, are noted and greatly appreciated!! You seem to have a wonderful Chef who understands your needs as a pastry chef. I sometimes read in other posts that PCs don't get the respect from their CCs. Perhaps, your blog might change that. You definitely have my respect, Wendy!!

Hey, y'all. I really appreciate this discussion. As a graduate from UNC-CH (MILS, 1989), I was trying to recall all of my culinary moments in the Carrboro/Chapel Hill area. I agree with ChefSwartz. As a native Californian who's been to SF & LA, Carolina was a bit of a culture shock to me. In the fall of 1987, I was walking down Franklin and I saw a LONG line going out the door. Obviously curious, I later found out that it was the grand opening of ... Taco Bell. (BryanZ, just be thankful you & your friends have a PF Chang's to go to). Mind you, one pleasant surprise I noticed during my two-year stay in Carolina was a small Chinese market on Rosemary that made fresh tofu. The attitude I had coming to the Carrboro/Chapel Hill area was to embrace the local scene for what it is, in its own context without the constant comparisons. I knew it wasn't LA or California. Instead, I ate fried okra at the Carolina Inn. I had country ham with red-eye gravy. I was invited to a pig pickin', with the slaw and the hushpuppies and the chopped pork mixed with some Pistol Pete and the Luzianne iced tea (Boy, I miss that). I did go eat at Crook's Corner. I heard about La Residence. As a student, I never went there. I did eat at the Chinese restaurants in Carrboro & in Chapel Hill. Fortunately, I got to know some of the local Chinese as personal friends. Hopefully, my walk through memory lane in Carolina will help illustrate ChefSwartz' statement that things do move slowly in the South. The South is not fast-paced like NYNY or LALA. If you get the opportunity to have some home cooked meals with a local family, just do it!! Those were some of the best times I had in Carolina.

First, here's the discussion thread to Manresa Restaurant , owned by Chef David Kinch. This article got me fascinated. My favorite part was how Kinch described himself as "anti-success": What a refreshing attitude to have!!

jo-mel, ask and you shall receive. I found the official report on this website.

When I first read the article last night, I was so incensed that I decided to have dim sum for lunch. Because I work in downtown LA, I can walk from my office, to my Chinese deli, buy some har gow, siu mai, shrimp dumplings with chives, shrimp dumplings with cilantro, & two char siu bows (baked), and walk back to my office in about 30-40 minutes. After I thoroughly enjoyed my lunch, I did feel like one plump lop cheung. BTW, my Chinese deli has dim sum available every day, starting at 7:30 a.m. I feel so spoiled ...

Here's the article from Reuters: All you dim sum eaters, is this getting too personal?

Including the pastries?

LA Times Food Section -- April 13, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration. You can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week. A new world of panaderías / by Barbara Hansen Pan dulce has gone pan-Latin. Here's where to find the best around town. Hansen proclaims her love for pan dulce, and provides a guided tour of an exuberant, ever-changing mix of Mexican and Central American pan dulce. Includes two side articles: A guide to the best Latino bakeries and Pan dulce: Don't miss these The other green pea / by Russ Parsons The sugar snap has all the delicate flavor of its persnickety English cousin -- and best of all, it never lets you down. Finding great tasting English peas can be rather frustrating. Mind you, Russ Parsons says that there is a better choice. The sugar snap pea ... retains its sweetness and vitality long enough that you can actually get a chance to enjoy it. Includes three recipes: Sugar snap pea soup with Parmesan cream; Sugar snap peas steamed in lettuce leaves; Risotto with sugar snap peas and prosciutto Honest, we got it for the recipes / by Leslie Brenner He's the guy your girlfriends warned you about. Look at him, emerging from the surf like a chef-Adonis, kelp fairly dangling from his biceps. He caught those big fish with his bare hands! The book, Crave: The Feast of the 5ive Senses, and its author, Ludo Lefebvre, the daring renegade chef of Bastide on Melrose Place, are both ... uhh ... reviewed. The book's strength and weakness are one in the same: the restaurantiness of the recipes. Includes two recipes: Young garlic soup with thyme, scallops and gold leaf ; Cake of apple confit Chocolate by the bowlful / by Leslee Komaiko The bolder, darker cousin of fruit soup makes forays into local eateries. Now being served at restaurants like Sona, Minibar, Firefly Bistro, Valentino's, Naya, Chloe, Avenue, & Belvedere: chocolate soup. Same wine, next year / by David Shaw It all started on his wedding day. But can his Barolo supply keep up with all those anniversaries ahead? Shaw worries about his dwindling supply of 1971 Barolo Monprivato from Giuseppe Mascarello that he and his wife drink on their anniversary. So he goes hunting for “his” wine at wine auctions. Indian, rising to the occasion / by S. Irene Virbila At Maurya in Beverly Hills, an ambitious menu expands on the classics with some subtle updates. Maurya in Beverly Hills is given a 1* rating. The chef, J.K. Paul, comes from Bombay, and the dishes are basically northern and western Indian. Because the food isn't served blistering hot, you can taste how the flavors are intricately woven together. Don't rush to order. You might miss some of the more interesting dishes ... WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2002 Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons Classique: South Africa; about $19; lush; goes with roast duck, pork loin and steaks. Taste this wine blindfolded, ... and you might swear it's a young cru bourgeois. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Plenty of Latin flavor / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Posh on Pico. Owner Maricarmen Rodriguez, born in Honduras and a former division manager for General Electric, has opened this 8-week old pan-Latin American restaurant. This is a big project to take on, but she's up and running. Eat, and shop too / by Leslee Komaiko Here are a few favorite spots to grab lunch and stock your pantry. Includes five restaurants/stores: Nicole's Gourmet Foods on Meridian Ave. in South Pasadena; Bay Cities on Lincoln Blvd. in Santa Monica; Papa Cristo's on W. Pico Blvd. in L.A.; Joan's on Third in L.A.; Picholine on W. 1st St. in L.A. The place where a chef can act naturally / by Valli Herman A writer accompanies a chef to the farmer's market and witnesses his true self

After work, I decided to have dinner in downtown LA & take a later train home. I went to Nick & Stef's Steakhouse. N&S is part of the Patina Group, owned by Chef Joachim Splichal (he pretty much owns downtown LA). I ordered the New York strip (12 oz. @ $38) with an arugula salad, a potato gratin, & a lemon hazelnut crunch cake. The salad was pleasant enough, with a little height for the shaved pear slices to be placed on top of the mound. The cake tasted good with the powdered sugar on top. The potato gratin was served warm, not hot. The potatoes were cooked through. Mind you, they were warm, on their way to being cold. The New York strip was fine, I suppose. The steak had a nice chew to it, but it didn't have that savory, melting flavor that my tongue would thoroughly enjoy. I did order it medium rare; it looked more like medium to me. The service seemed perfunctory. I expected more, given that it's a Splichal restaurant with accolades like "Best Steak in Downtown LA." Maybe it's time to try a steakplace over on the Westside.

In the 16 Mar. 2005 LA Times Food Section digest, I inserted links to the four discussion threads about the movie Mondovino, including this thread. Also includes a link to David Shaw's review.

LA Times Food Section -- April 6, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration. You can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week. Salt, that essential flavor / by Regina Schrambling There's a world of varieties -- and each brings something different to the plate. From the seacoasts of England & France to India, Hawaii and California, “much of the reason the 'new' salts have taken off so aggressively in this country is that they impart so much with so few grains.” Includes two side articles: “From seven seas” and “Where there's a trend, there's a backlash” The prosciutto wore a cunning disguise ... / by Carolynn Carreño These are good days for the lettuce-obsessed. Lately, in various restaurants, LA chefs are serving “plates of unabashed, unadorned, perfectly dressed gorgeous greens. Unadorned, that is, till you stick in your fork and pull out a treat.” Includes two recipes: Escarole and parsley salad (from Brooke Williamson at Beechwood); Raw and braised seasonal vegetables with organic greens and citrus vinaigrette (from Theo Schoenegger at Patina) A new frenzy for fine Scotch / by Charles Perry Independent bottlings are all the rage among lovers of single malts, and there are hundreds of distinctive labels. There's more to single-malt Scotch than Glenlivet and Macallan and Laphroaig. There are the independent bottlers. “They aren't trying to maintain a standard flavor profile. They can give you a completely different impression of the character of the whisky.” Includes two side articles: “Proof of individual tastes” and “How they compare” A flavor combo that sings / by Barbara Hansen Recipe from Zuni Cafe in San Francisco: Salad of blood orange, white asparagus and bottarga di tonno. Chocolate to the nth degree / by Barbara Hansen Recipe from the Some Crust Bakery in Claremont: Some Crust Bakery mocha cookies His dream burger is rare indeed / by David Shaw Forget E. coli. A hamburger should be served properly: thick, juicy and barely touched by a grill. Shaw gets deeply disappointed and more than mildly annoyed when he's turned down when trying to order a hamburger cooked rare. “Burger makers should worry less about minuscule threats to my health and more about impinging on my freedom of choice.” And the occurrences of E. coli have been decreasing in the U.S., “down 42% since 1996.” A chef who led the way / by Russ Parsons Michael Roberts helped put Los Angeles on the gastronomic map -- with joie de vivre and style to spare. Our own Russ Parsons writes an appreciation of Michael Roberts, who “was a key member of the first class of restaurateurs to establish Los Angeles as a prime attraction on the national dining scene.” There is a thread about Michael Roberts. Saucy and sassy, this barbecue's got attitude / by Charles Perry It's no sweet innocent. At Baby Blues, the smoky meats have a bite. Baby Blues Bar-B-Q in Venice serves some down-home barbecue, North Carolina-style, with a vinegary & spicy taste to it. At home in the Korean kitchen / by Susan LaTempa An L.A. author explores her cultural roots, inviting readers to share her cooking adventures. A new cookbook, “Eating Korean: from barbecue to kimchi, recipes from my home,” by Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee is reviewed. Strength: its down-to-earth conversational tone. Weakness: Not enough food photos to help cooks figure out what completed dishes should look like. Includes three recipes: Simmered tofu (dubu jolim); Sweet potato noodles (japchae); Seafood hot pot (haemul jungol) Just in from Italy / by S. Irene Virbila Percorino in Brentwood is given a 2* rating. The owners — Giorgio Pierangeli, Mario Sabatini and the chef, Raffaele Sabatini, who happens to be Mario's fraternal twin — have opened a second-generation LA Italian in a city of cookie-cutter Italian restaurants. “Instead of rehashing the same familiar Tuscan dishes seen all over town, they've come up with something a little more original .... The dishes that are most interesting, though, are the ones that have a distinct sense of place. And that place is Abruzzo.” WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2003 Jo Pithon Anjou “Les Bergères”: Loire Valley; about $20; crisp and minerally; goes with Asian food, raw or steamed shellfish, shrimp, seared scallops, grilled fish. “... a beautiful balance and texture, and notes of lime and honey in its perfume ...” *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday To review or not review / by S. Irene Virbila Times' restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila reveals her methodology. Calling all carnivores / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Fogo de Chão in Beverly Hills. This Brazilian churrascaria seats up to 300 with an entrance as grand as anything in Las Vegas. “Dare I point out that as a churrascaria, Fogo de Chão is basically all you can eat? I don't want there to be a stampede.” 'Cue in L.A. / by Leslee Komaiko Texas and Kansas City natives might protest, but L.A. is a good town for barbecue. Includes five restaurants: Mr. Cecil's California Ribs on Ventura Blvd. in Sherman Oaks; Phillip's Bar-B-Que on Leimert Blvd. in Leimert Park; Dr. Hogly Wogly's Tyler Texas B-B-Q on Sepulveda Blvd. in Van Nuys; Barbecue King on W. Sunset Blvd. in downtown L.A.; Gyu-Kaku on Ventura Blvd. in Sherman Oaks

Do you mean "body?" Do you mean "quarter of a turn", as in 90% turn? And then "repeat the fold", as in repeat step #4? For your consideration, how about this format? This format is similiar to the ones found in the new Joy of Cooking and Mastering the Art of French Cooking (MAFC): Waiting for the "shaping & stuffing", and of course, the eventual tasting ....

I have the cast iron skillet. I got the steaks to be cooked on top of the stove. I turn the burner on high. I turn on my oscillating fan full blast (I live in an old building). The skillet is smokin'. I put the steak into the skillet. Ssszzzz. Okay, what next? Do I let it cook covered/uncovered? Do I turn down the fire at some point? Do I leave it alone for 2 minutes before turning? 5 minutes? 7 minutes? I usually like my steak medium. My concern is that if I want my steak medium, the outside of the steak will be totally burnt. Help, please?

I went to Empress Pavilion in downtown LA with some friends this Sat. morning for dim sum. I was the only Chinese in our group. One friend with his wife & son never been to dim sum before. Another friend was teaching English in Hong Kong many years ago, so he spoke far more Cantonese than me (which is non-existent). We arrived at the restaurant early, about 10 a.m. Good news: no problem getting a table. Bad news: All the really good selections came around at 11 a.m. What did we have? the rolled noodles with beef, gai lon (Chinese broccoli) with oyster sauce, har gow, siu mai, shrimp toast, beef balls, hom suey gok, char siu bow (steamed), sweet rice cake (with the consistency of Jello). I wanted to order some yangchow fried rice but they don't start that until 11 a.m. When we were leaving, they had the roast duck and the jellyfish. And no dan tahts (egg custard tarts) to be found. My friends enjoyed it. As for me, the limited selections tasted great. The carts didn't come fast enough, IMO. Having dim sum is no big thing to me, because I usually go to a different Chinese place where I can order out for takeaway. Empress Pavilion is a good place to introduce people to a more traditional dim sum. As for me, I think it's time for me to head out to Alhambra/Monterey Park for some "cutting-edge" dim sum, like New Concept.

Mon Kee's is still closed. I haven't seen any builders or construction workers around. I still don't know what's up. I'm still trying to find out. to be continued ...

I was a bit surprised by chef koo's post because in my mind, his questions were basically answered by the other posts. From these posts, I know that Julia Child was a very popular TV cook to "ordinary" Americans back in the '50's & '60's. She rescued American households from the processed homogenization of American cuisine by showing Americans how to cook French dishes at home, with a personal style that makes friends & influences people (which is not easy to do). As for me, I grew up knowing Julia. As an American of Chinese descent, I was assimilating into American culture, which included American TV programs. In terms of food programs, that would include Julia Child, Jacques Pepin, The Galloping Gourmet, Yan Can Cook, the CIA, as well as other PBS food shows. When Julia passed away, I wanted to find and got a list of websites that recounted all of the tributes and memories of her life. That's how I found the eGullet website. And the rest is history ... In a certain way, I understand cubilularis' point. Yes, I can get carried away that others don't appreciate Julia like I do. What? You don't know who Julia Child is? And you're a chef?? Mind you, this thread is about Julia Child. Those who could care less about Julia wouldn't be reading or posting in this thread (unless to say, "You're raving!"). At this point, there's more than enough info in this thread about Julia to initially satisfy the uninformed. And there's also plenty of room to explain to those who say, "I don't get it about this Julia thing." There is a culinary history that should not be discounted or ignored. I would expect a chef, trained and/or working in America, to have (and/or willing to have) a basic knowledge & understanding of American culinary history. And to me, Julia Child is part of that American culinary history. Am I asking too much?

Why am I not surprised? When I went to the Health Dept.'s website, I typed in a name of one of the famous restaurants in LA (I'm not telling) and on one recent occasion, they got a "B" rating. But, a month later, that restaurant had another inspection and got a perfect "A" rating of 100! I think I'll go there now. I have no problems eating at a restaurant with a non-"A" rating. Even the LA Times food critic, S. Irene Virbila, isn't concerned about those ratings. She wrote that she eats out six nights a week and she has never gotten sick. "And I eat everything."

Neil, Nice of you to visit the California forum. Here's a link to the discussion thread I started on LA County Health Code Ratings. In the thread, I included a link to the specific county agency that does these restaurant inspections (NB the levels of government in CA are: city -- county -- state). Go ahead & have a look. If you have more questions/comments, you know where to post, ehh? BTW Neil, please visit LA again.

Gary, beware! Anybody can call themselves a "nutritionist." Instead, find a Registered Dietitian (RD). The following is from the American Dietetic Association website: .

LA Times Food Section -- March 30, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration. You can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week. Two Fish, One Fish / by Russ Parsons The sand dab, that famous California flatfish, is nearly impossible to find. But no worries: The fabulous rex sole is at your command. Sand dabs and rex soles are really quite similiar, so there's no need to mourn about no sand dabs around. Includes three recipes: Sauteéd rex sole with spring vegetable salad in bacon vinaigrette; Rex sole and sugar snaps steamed in foil; Rex sole baked with mushrooms and cream. Also includes the side article, “How to deal with those tiny bones.” From oven to bread basket / by Susan LaTempa You don't have to be an artisan or a bread-machine geek to make perfect crusty rolls. Get 'em while they're hot. The rewards of freshly-baked bread with little effort can be found. “Meet the crusty roll.” Includes three recipes: Overnight honey-lemon whole-wheat rolls; Mini bolillos (Mexican crusty rolls); Basic crusty rolls Long live the queen of desserts / by Charles Perry Charlotte russe has been glorious since vanilla was exotic. Updated, she is even grander. And you don't have to be a trained professional to make one. “Queen charlotte is actually quite forgiving.” A little history lesson is added in as well. Includes two recipes: Charlotte russe; Charlotte misu. Also includes the side article, “The mold they didn't break,” plus “steps to a deliciously updated charlotte.” Top toques are up in the air / by Leslee Komaiko Despite rapid-fire restaurant openings, a number of this city's most celebrated chefs don't have a stove to call their own. Here's the list: Alain Giraud, Nancy Silverton, Eric Greenspan, Chris Behre, Nick Coe, John Sedlar, Michael Cimarusti, and the latest, Scooter Kanfer-Cartmill. Move over, mimosa! / by David Lansing What's the best new idea in cocktails for spring? Fruit-infused sake. And who's behind these drinks? Rob Robinson, the former owner of Infusion in San Francisco, now at Ponzu. Includes three recipes: Citrus-infused sake; Pineapple-infused sake; Strawberry-infused sake. Find it once, and you'll go back / by S. Irene Virbila Nook Bistro on Santa Monica Blvd. (at Barry) is given a 2* rating. Entrepreneurs Brian Frith-Smith and Jeffrey Stuppler and chef James Richardson started an American bistro with quality comfort food at moderate prices, tucked away in a strip mall on the Westside. “The menu is smart and simple, with no pretense of reinventing the wheel, which is sometimes a good thing. L.A. could definitely use a few more places like this one.” WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2002 Boekenhoutskloof Syrah: Franschhoek, South Africa; about $45; rich and full-bodied; goes with game, braised meats, grilled leg of lamb, roast duck. It “could easily be mistaken for a top Côte-Rôtie .... Kudos to winemaker Marc Kent for a fascinating wine.” For the record Restaurant review — In last week's Food section, the restaurant review listed Covina as an example of towns that are not in the San Gabriel Valley. Covina is in the San Gabriel Valley. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Worth shelling out for / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on The hungry cat on N. Vine St. in Hollywood. The hungry cat [spelled in lowercase] is the restaurant of chef-owner David Lentz (ex-Opaline), with oysters & shrimps and dinner hours until 1 a.m. Oysters / by Leslee Komaiko For those who embrace the adage that oysters should be consumed only in months featuring an "r," get your fix quick. Includes five restaurants: Gumbo Pot at the Farmers Market; R23 on E. 2nd St. in downtown L.A.; BOA Steakhouse on Ocean Ave. in Santa Monica; Beacon on Helms Ave. in Culver City; Koi on N. La Cienega Blvd. in West Hollywood.

monkey2000, I'm still mortified. That really presses my button when a "friend" acts so nasty in public. Bother!! Just after Christmas, I went with a couple of friends to this nice restaurant in downtown LA. The service was excellent. What got my attention was when my napkin was refolded and properly placed after I returned from the restroom! I definitely tipped well for that dinner. Mooshmouse, in Los Angeles area, the state sales tax is 8.25%. Normally for me, I start tipping at over 15% by doubling the 8.25% tax portion of the bill. For great service, I go 20% or just over that. Also, I tip in cash, not on the credit card. Oh boy! Compared to the rest of you guys, I'm really chintzy! My tipping needs to be kicked up a notch, ehh??

Steven, Congratulations! I'm looking forward to your book coming out. Will there be a book signing tour? If so, is there a possibility of coordinating appearances with <cough> local eGullet events <cough>? As an eGullet member from the Left Coast, I wouldn't mind meeting you in person, Fearless Leader.

Hannibal's Hungry Hacienda Just pick a part ... any part ...

Is that tagine (tajine?) to the left of the couscous? What kind was it? Lamb? Was it spicy? Was it served with harissa? This photo definitely reminds me when chefzadi gave me some lamb tagine & couscous a while back (with some spicy harissa) ...