rjwong

K8memphis, I was thinking of "Bakin' by Bacon" (or the BBB), then you posted your excellent suggestions. CB, I say go with your handle, Canadian Bakin' , Bacon.

Foodie-Girl, When are you all coming? If it's not too late and you don't mind, I can drive out and do some quick "research" in the Palms Spring area (and Claremont perhaps). It seems as though us eGulleteers in Southern California are not ready to retire to the deserts of the Palms Spring area and play golf yet. PM me & let me know.

when you plan your driving stops for your vacation by what towns you'll be in for lunch and dinner. Years ago, I started my vacation by driving from Los Angeles for twelve hours to the Eureka/Arcata area in Humboldt County just in time to have dinner at the Samoa Cookhouse (yes, I did it. Might have to do that again).

I go to CBS Seafood that's located on N. Spring St. & Ord St. It's up the block from Philippe's. Mind you, when I have friends who haven't tried dim sum, I introduce them to Empress Pavilion, which is located up Hill St. from Ai Hoa market. It's on the right side of Hill St. (same as Ai Hoa) on the second floor, the last building on the right before you go on the 110 on-ramp.

Rebel Rose, I might have to try this place since I live close by. BTW, Cafe Stella is NOT in Glendale. It's in Silverlake, which is part of the incorporated city of Los Angeles & a little bit west of Glendale. When I first saw your topic title, you really got me going because I live in Glendale.

Here are the ingredients for American Nutella: "sugar, peanut oil, hazelnuts, skim milk, cocoa, partially-hydrogenated peanut oil, soy lecithin; an emulsifier vanillin; an artificial flavor." You're right, cakewench, there is peanut oil in the American version ("made in USA by Ferrero U.S.A., Inc. Somerset, NJ 08873").

There's a couple of articles in Thursday's Calendar Live section of the LA Times on steakhouses that's in the food digest (Jan 26, 2005): Boa Steakhouse in Santa Monica Nick & Stef's in downtown LA (been there, liked it, the watercress was new to me) Ruth's Chris in Beverly Hills (been there a few times, loved it) Lincoln Steakhouse Americana in Santa Monica Fleming's in Newport Beach (been there, loved it, especially the small dining room downstairs away from the bar scene) Taylor's on W. 8th St. With these steakhouses that I haven't tried yet, I'd better set up my steakhouse database for future reference. Boy, "research" can be so hard!

Here's the link to: Ask the Critic: S. Irene Virbila (NB This link is to a premium section of the LA Times, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee) As I was reading today's LA Times for the food digest, S. Irene Virbila was answering a question in her "Ask the Critic" section about those health code ratings (or "establishment ratings") given to retail food establishments by the County of Los Angeles Department of Health Services - Public Health. Here's the actual question and Irene's initial answer: Irene considers these ratings as a snapshot on the day the inspector came for inspection. And fast-food restaurants have the highest ratings. Why? The food's not made from scratch; they just go from freezer to microwave or oven. Irene concludes: I don't pay much attention to those ratings either, especially in Chinese restaurants. I remember that long time ago, the County of LA wanted to closed down some Chinese restaurants or cite them for health code violations because of how they were preparing Peking duck!!! Mind you, when I go to a Chinese restaurant and I see an "A" rating posted outside the restaurant, I do get a little concern. Why? To me, that restaurant paid too much money for that health code rating. Those health code ratings are no big deal to me. As Irene said, it's just a snapshot. What is important is how the restaurant is doing week in-week out, over a period of months & years, and not just on one day that happens to go bad. I go along with Irene on this one. What's your response?

FYI Din Tai Fung is mentioned in the LA Times article (Jan. 26, 2005), Real fireworks / by Charles Perry and Linda Burum

Joe, After reading the LA Times and trying to summarize it for this week's food digest (Jan. 26, 2005), it was a real revelation to me. I say this because I grew up eating dim sum the old Cantonese way, with Chinese ladies pushing these steel carts stacked with round silver trays of har gow (steamed shrimp dumplings), siu mai (steamed pork dumplings), etc... , all inside these noisy and busy restaurants a generation or two ago. Actually, I usually stand in line at this old Chinese deli in downtown LA and order what dim sum I want and take them back to the office and eat. And now, dim sum is being taken out of my comfort zone. The envelope is being pushed. It's definitely NOT my father's dim sum. Am I willing to try these new places, like this "New Concept"? Sure, I'll try them. Are you willing to try some tripe and some jellyfish?

That entire article blew me away when I was reading it for the food digest this week. According to the article, Silverton is looking around for locations. She & Batali are hoping to open the restaurant by the end of the summer. Given that both have strong & driven personalities, I liked Nancy's answer to the questions about how she & Mario can co-exist in the kitchen, how the responsibilities & authorities are going to be divided up: After reading this article, I'm reminded of that old quote (slightly out of context), "Man doesn't live by bread alone ..." Maybe that's why Mario Batali is bringing over the salumi to Los Angeles.

LA Times Food Section -- January 26, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration. You can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week. Real fireworks / by Charles Perry and Linda Burum “We live in the dim sum capital of the country” begins this article of one of my favorite pastimes. Mind you, dim sum is departing from the familiar har gow and siu mai rolled out in carts. It's becoming more creative, more hip, more sophisticated, more competitive. Highlighted are seven A-list dim sum places: Sea Harbour Seafood; Mission 261; Din Tai Fung; New Concept; 888 Seafood Restaurant; Ocean Star; Empress Pavilion. Don't miss these Chinese nibbles / by Linda Burum and Charles Perry Try some of these new-style dim sum: Bitter melon roll; Hollow stem vegetables; Scallops and shrimp in spinach pastry; Three-layer squares; Almond-crusted taro balls; Tofu custard topped with dried scallops. The top of her game / by David Shaw Whoa!! Nancy Silverton has sold her interest in Campanile. She and Mark Peel are parting ways. And Nancy is teaming up with Mario Batali to start a new Italian in Los Angeles. Beard ex-chief admits guilt / by Corie Brown “Leonard Pickell Jr. pleads guilty to stealing more than $50,000 from the culinary foundation. He could face up to 15 years in prison, prosecutors say.” The lentil moves uptown / by Regina Schrambling The quickest and most effortless of all dried beans, lentils “now has enough cachet to show up in the toniest dishes.” Includes three recipes: Petrale sole with beluga lentils and rosemary cream; Lentils with chorizo; Lentil and duck sald with hazelnut dressing. Start with bubbly--then go wild / by David Lansing “Use that leftover Champagne to create cocktails with pizazz.” Includes these three liquid concoctions: “The taste of honey” from Lola's in West Hollywood; “The celebration” from Boa Steakhouse on Sunset; “The geisha” from Tengu in Westwood. Beyond the cool factor / by S. Irene Virbila Whist in Santa Monica is given a 1½* rating. Despite the management's commitment to serious cuisine, the bar scene with its hipsters continues to rule, while its third chef, Warren Schwartz, formerly of Saddle Peak Lodge, is cooking very conservatively. Home cooking away from home / by Charles Perry Bertha's Soul Food, the oldest soul food restaurant in town, is celebrating its 40th anniversary. They serve oxtails, gumbo, smothered steaks, and “for the health nuts, there's fried chicken.” A suave starter / by Barbara Hansen Culinary SOS shares this recipe for purée of portabello mushroom soup from Delmonico's in Encino. WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2003 Château de St. Cosme Côtes-du-Rhône blanc: Southern Rhône; about $15; aromatic and lush; goes with seafood and vegetable first course. “The taste is opulent and honeyed, like Condrieu on steroids.” *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories Beef is aged, but not the look / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Boa Steakhouse in Santa Monica. “Boa steakhouse features floor-to-ceiling windows on Ocean Avenue -- a steakhouse with a view!" It's not our parents' steakhouse. And the steaks are flavorful. In praise of meat / by Leslee Komaiko “In light of the low-carb craze, steakhouses are hotter than ever. Here are a few places to get your fix.” Nick & Stef's in downtown LA; Ruth's Chris in Beverly Hills; Lincoln Steakhouse Americana in Santa Monica; Fleming's in Newport Beach; Taylor's on W. 8th St.

annsyp, San Diego does have this apparent culinary stigma attached to itself. Mind you, I heard about some fine restaurants in La Jolla. I did some initial searching and found this webpage for your reading pleasure: Friends of James Beard Benefit. There are some places. Let me get back to you. I recently did some research for my boss ("Find some SD restaurants for Christmas"). Where are my notes?

RJ, I think I remember this song, was he a christen singer? ← chefreit, You're probably thinking of Larry Norman. Larry Groce was born and raised in Dallas, influenced by commercial folk music. He did some children's recordings for Disney. His hit song "Junk Food Junkie" brought him an avalanche of press coverage. Here are the entire lyrics to "Junk Food Junkie."

savvysearch, I've been to Din Tai Fung Dumpling House by myself a while back. I remember ordering two things. Wait, let me check my menu file... Found it!! I think I had one order of "51. Juicy Pork/Crab Dumplings (10 pcs)" and one order of "54. Shrimp & Pork Shiaomai (10 pcs)" . I'm more familiar with the more typical Cantonese-styled dim sum. This is more Taiwanese. It's definitely fresh. Each dumpling has a little broth inside. You nibble a little opening into the dumpling skin, savor the broth inside by maneuvering the dumpling with your chopsticks and Chinese soup spoon, then eat the dumpling. You should go as a group, so all of you can try different things. I went there when they opened for dinner (5 pm) on a weeknight. So, it wasn't busy at all. However, during weekends for lunch (11 am), it is apparently crowded. There is one item that's very popular and only served on weekends: "56. Small Dumplings with Soup (Weekend Limited)." I know, not too descriptive, ehh?? Din Tai Fung is located in Arcadia on 1108 S. Baldwin Ave. Coming from OC, you should go up the 605 to the 210 going west towards Pasadena and take the Baldwin exit, going southbound. It's located on the eastern side of Baldwin Ave. If you want, I can go there again for you to see if the food is still good.

Isn't it time to sing that 1976 Larry Groce song "Junk Food Junkie"?? In the daytime I'm Mr. Natural Just as healthy as I can be But at night I'm a junk food junkie Good lord have pity on me In 'n Out Burgers' Double-Double Combo Appetizer platter at Claimjumper's (Buffalo wings, onion rings, fried zucchinis, fried mozzarella, potato skins, and Southwest eggrolls with dipping sauces; I only do this when I'm with a group, honest ) Onion rings (They must be all right since they're served at all the fine steakhouses, right?? )

Thanks JFL! I'll add Taylor's (downtown) to the list. As for Lawry's, I go there occasionally for prime rib, which is different from steak, IMO. Mind you, steaks and prime rib are DA BOMBS for me. In fact, I usually go to Tam O'Shanter's (a Lawry's restaurant) for my prime rib & chocolate soufflé fix.

1. What type of cuisine did you grow up eating? Born in Stockton & raised in Modesto, I grew up eating Chinese & American food in the San Joaquin Valley. We owned a family-owned take-out Chinese restaurant in Modesto for about 6-7 years. My father was in the Chinese restaurant business most of his life. So, eating Chinese food wasn't “ethnic” to me. Mind you, it was still special, particularly around Chinese New Year. I remember my family and all my relatives taking me and my cousins to a Chinese restaurant hosted by our Chinese family association and eating a seven-course banquet meal. It would start with something like bird's nest soup, followed by boneless duck (pressed duck?), fried squabs, abalones & Chinese black mushrooms, Chinese whole fried chicken with fried shrimp chips, gai-lan (Chinese broccoli) with oyster sauce, steamed whole fish, and steamed rice. This is more the Hong Kong-style, Cantonese-style food I grew up with. 2. When did you first try another ethnic cuisine? 3. When did you start noticing ethnic restaurants? When I left Modesto for Los Angeles in 1983 to do graduate studies at UCLA (Go Bruins!), that's when I started noticing and trying ethnic cuisine. My first recollection would have to be eating a falafel sandwich at the Falafel King in Westwood. It was these fried falafel balls with chopped salad mix and tahini sauce all inside a pita bread. It was wonderful, it was Middle Eastern, it was vegetarian! I still go back there whenever I'm over in the Westside. 4. Do you remember which types of ethnic restaurants first opened in your neighborhood? What came after? And so on and so on. When I moved into my first apartment in 1986, it was in a Hasidic Jewish neighborhood on Pickford near Sherbourne. chefzadi, do we know each other? Let me PM you. Okay, back to topic ... I was familiar with bagels already, but I never heard of bialies. So what's a goy suppose to do? They were delicious. Then from 1987 to 1989, I went totally ethnic. I moved to do my master's degree program in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. Culinary-wise, I got familiar with pig pickin's (with chopped pork that was smoked for 1-2 days, slaw, hush puppies), fried okra, and Smithfield ham. I remember my former roommates taking me to Hillsborough to the Colonial Inn restaurant. While in the Chapel Hill/Carrboro area, I was surprised that there were a couple of pretty good Chinese restaurants and a small Chinese market that made their own fresh tofu! After I received my MSLS in library science, it was back to Southern California. Over the years, I became familiar to varying degrees with the various ethnic cuisines of SoCal: Mexican, Cuban, Salvadoran, Peruvian, Armenian, Southern/Soul, Creole, Jewish, German, French, Italian, Swiss, Indian, Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, and of course, Chinese. 5. What was the first ethnic meal that you had an ethnic friends house. Back in LA, a friend took me over this person's house. He was from Sri Lanka. The meal was rather simple. What I remembered was how we ate our food, without forks, spoons, chopsticks, or utensils. Yes, eating rice and chicken with our hands. Actually, eating with our fingers without dirtying the rest of our hands. It was quite peculiar.

I love steakhouses. That is probably the one area that I have done extensive “research” on and had more friends willing to help me with, especially when I'm “funding the research project.” I like to focus the discussion on Southern California steakhouses here. That includes the areas of San Luis Obispo, down to San Diego, and out to Palm Springs. I'm more familiar with steakhouses in those areas than with other parts of the country. In fact, I've never eaten in New York, ... yet. Here's the extent of my research, in no particular order: Ruth's Chris (Beverly Hills, Irvine), Fleming's (La Jolla, Newport, Rancho Mirage), Palm (downtown LA), Nick & Stef's (downtown LA), Pacific Dining Car (downtown LA), Taylor's (La Canada), Damon's (Glendale), Jocko's (Nipomo), A.J. Spur's (Pismo Beach), Hitching Post (Buellton), Arroyo Chop House (Pasadena), De Lacey's (Pasadena), Smoke House (Burbank). I haven't tried Arnie Morton's of Chicago yet (NB That's how the Morton steakhouse chain is known in LA. There is a separate restaurant in West Hollywood named “Morton's,” that's known for its annual, invite-only, Vanity Fair-hosted, post-Academy Awards party.). So you can see that my research is not completely thorough. So, with the approval & blessing of the Forum Host, Calfornia (Thank you, melkor!!), the question is asked: What are the SoCal steakhouses I haven't tried yet?

LA Times Food Section -- January 19, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration. You can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week. The world according to Gallo / by Corie Brown “Think you're drinking an obscure Chianti, a surprising Australian Shiraz or an unusual Côtes-du-Rhône? Think again.” In a rare interview for the LA Times, Joe Gallo comments about the company's plans for wine globalization by producing international wines for American consumers. "'It's about making wine with an absence of negatives,' Gallo says, introducing a phrase he repeats several times during the four-hour interview.” A movable feast day / by Charles Perry “Festive Afghan dishes are among the foods prepared by Muslims worldwide to celebrate the Eid-al-Adha, ... the Feast of the Sacrifice. It's also known as the Great Feast (Eid al-Kabir).” Includes three recipes: Ab-e dandon (cardamom cookies); Qorma-e ru-ye nan (lamb with leeks, yogurt and flatbread croutons); Seekh kebab (Afghan version of shish kebab). Cubism makes a comeback / by Carolynn Carreño When the writer went to Mexico City to learn cooking from her step-grandmother Josefina, Carreño was horrified when “with the deft nonchalance of a person who spends 12 or more hours a day in the kitchen, she [Josefina] (plop!) tossed a chicken bouillon cube.” Who else uses bouillon cubes? Giovanna and Wanda Tornabene, Marcella Hazan, and “at least one L.A. French chef ..., 'I've seen my mom use it, my grandmother…. It's good, no?' ” Includes a recipe for: Chiles rellenos de queso (chiles stuffed with panela cheese). Staying svelte, à la française / by Laurie Winer “At last, a diet book for people who love food, from a culture that celebrates it.” "French Women Don't Get Fat: The Secret of Eating for Pleasure" by Mireille Guiliano. Includes three recipes: Tagliatelle with lemon; Cooked pears with cinnamon; Magical leek soup. One nation, overfed / by David Shaw “It's no news that we're too fat. But why is it that Americans eat so much, especially as compared with Europeans?” Ramblings about Taco Bell specials, Hardee's “Monster Thickburger,” Center for Science in the Public Interest findings, a little history of this country's “gastronomic dark ages,” and comments from Morgan Spurlock (fast-food documentary “Super Size Me”). Worth their salt? Not exactly “The Times tasting panel met last week to put five bouillons to the test — four brands of chicken bouillon cubes and one chicken base. To sample them, we made broth with each according to the package directions and sipped it plain. On the panel were Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila, columnist David Shaw, Test Kitchen director Donna Deane and food editor Leslie Brenner.” Includes two recipes: Braised endives; Spaghetti alla chitarra with butter and rosemary sauce Invention was his stock in trade / by Emily Green Born in 1803, Justus Liebig anticipated Atkins, invented baby formula and made the bouillon cube possible. “Until William H. Brock wrote 'Justus von Liebig: the Chemical Gatekeeper,' published in 1997, a conviction had set in that modern food processing was somehow an American phenomenon. In fact, Brock's text shows us that much of its logic sprang from one 19th century German mind.” Where your bottle is welcome / by Leslee Komaiko “There's good news for wine collectors whose best-loved bottles outnumber their evenings at home: No or low corkage fees are a growing trend in L.A. restaurants.” An elegant avocado dessert Culinary SOS provides a most interesting and delicious dessert recipe from Yi Cuisine in Los Angeles — Yi Cuisine avocado mousse with lychee sorbet. Sunshine, sangria and a tapa or two / by S. Irene Virbila Jack Huang's Bar Celona in Pasadena is given a 1* rating. Although “the splashy design and hip sensibility keep things lively,” the restaurant's signage “Modern Spanish Cuisine” has to mean something. The reviewer comments, “I can't help but think that with the right recipes and with better ingredients, Bar Celona could be really good. No one appears to have done much research into Spanish cooking.” WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2003 Terlano Alto Adige Pinot Grigio: Alto Adige, Italy; about $18; crisp and minerally; goes with prosciutto, grilled fish, spicy Asian food. Usually considered a lightweight summer wine, this Pinot Grigio is “an all-season basic.” *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories Location, location … where? / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Venice Cantina, “the latest restaurant and lounge from the team behind Hollywood's Paladar and Nacional, ...an updated Mexican, lighter and healthier.” But keep the address and phone number to yourself. Sssh Tequila taste tests / by Leslee Komaiko “If your knowledge of tequila begins and ends with that silly party song, ... it might be time to do a little research” at these five locations: El Carmen on W. 3rd St.; Border Grill in Santa Monica; Mexicali in Studio City; Malo in Silver Lake; El Cholo on S. Western Ave.

nightscotsman, You may need to preface this thread with a warning label: Culinary Advisory: Explicit Content The following photos can cause gastronomic epilepsy. You have been warned. Congratulations, Neil!! This is truly a world-class patisserie. Of course, I'll have to taste the pastries to confirm that statement, ehh?? Perhaps, it was a blessing in disguise that it didn't open while I was in Vegas during Christmas. I wouldn't know how to handle all this. Keep up the good work. I hope you find some people so you can get some rest. Four o'clock in the morning? Yikes!!

LA Times Food Section -- January 12, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration. You can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week. Made for each other / by Regina Schrambling Cheese and potatoes make the best winter food combination. The article includes three recipes: Cheese-crusted potatoes; Salade petatou (Warm goat cheese and potato salad); & Three-cheese potato gratin. Hollywood goes gastronomic / by Laurie Winer Movies like “Spanglish”, “The Life Aquatic”, and “Sideways” are incorporating characters who have culinary abilities and detailed food knowledge. Includes the Thomas Keller recipe for “Spanglish” BLT with fried egg and melted cheese. There is a discussion thread based on this article. Mandoline picks / by Charles Perry The mandoline, a kitchen tool with a stationary blade to “strum” your vegetables over, is now available for the home kitchen. Seven mandolines were tested ranging from $9.99 to $200. Preserving a sense of place / by David Shaw Marco Caprai, owner of the winery Arnaldo Caprai in Umbria, laments the globalization, the homogenization, of the world's wines. Caprai argues very strongly about the importance of indigenous wines. “The beauty of Italy, the essence of Italy, is that you can go anywhere in the country and find good local foods and good local wines native to that particular area.” Franglais, fluently / by S. Irene Virbila Christian Shaffer's Avenue in Manhattan Beach is given a 2 1/2* rating. It's a sophisticated French American, “family-run in the same spirit as one- and two-star restaurants in France, ... warming, convival and friendly. ” Real cuisine in a reel setting / by Linda Burum Named for the Hindu goddess of nourishment, Annapurna in Culver City serves vegetarian comfort food for all the homesick Indian desis, with Bollywood musicals playing in the background. Overnight but easy / by Barbara Hansen Culinary SOS provides the Chef Kazuto Matsusaka recipe for Beacon miso cod from the restaurant Beacon in Culver City. WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2002 Ramey Chardonnay Carneros District: Sonoma County; about $32; rich and tropical; goes with chicken fricassee, seared scallops in beurre blanc, fish in Champagne sauce. “Drinking down is awfully hard going once you get used to the good stuff.” For the record Farm stand — In an article in the Dec. 29 Food section on two new patisseries in Los Angeles, a pastry chef said that she bought only organic produce and that the Chino Farms stand in San Diego County was one of her favorite produce suppliers. Chino Farms is not certified organic. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories The Tao of tea / by Valli Herman LA teahouses are quietly creating a modern tea aesthetic, a departure from the stuffy British tradition with its little sandwiches and dainty doilies. A little bit of Sicily / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Palmeri Ristorante in Brentwood. That's Palmeri, as in Ottavio Palmeri, formerly of Il Fornaio, now starting his own Sicilian-style ristorante. Dolci / by Leslee Komaiko A list of five locations to enjoy Italian desserts, mainly, alternatives to the ubiquitous tiramisu: La Terza in Los Angeles; Massimo's Cafe in Venice; Antonello in Santa Ana; Trattoria Tre Venezie in Pasadena; & Valentino in Santa Monica. A “breakfast burger” for the diet-weary / by Dog Davis Carl's Jr. has been revamping its morning menu. Its newest entry: Carl's Jr. Breakfast Burger (Basically, a bacon cheeseburger, throw out the lettuce & tomato, and put in a fried egg and fried potatoes. I'm not making this up).

LA Times Food Section -- January 5, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration. You can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week. Catch 'em while you can / by Russ Parsons The process of bringing in the Dungeness harvest is detailed. “You want to know what it's like? Pile $35 million in $1 bills in the middle of the floor. Jam 600 fishermen in a circle around it and then blow a whistle and say, 'Go!'” Includes two shorter articles “A boom time for the crab harvest” and “How to prepare a fresh Dungeness”, plus three recipes: Dungeness crab salad with endive and watercress; Dungeness crab cakes with tarragon aioli (adapted from a recipe by chef Nicholas Petti at Fort Bragg's Mendo Bistro); Dungeness crab gratin. There is a discussion thread on Dungeness crab. He's counting his Meyer lemons before they're picked / by Russ Parsons Russ Parsons has only 100 Meyer lemons to use for this season. A history of this fruit , its distinctive features and info about planting & caring for your own Meyer lemon tree are noted. Includes three recipes: Meyer lemon and pistachio panna cotta (adapted from a recipe by pastry chef Nancy Silverton); Meyer lemon curd tart; Meyer lemon granita. The other white wine pulls ahead / by Jordan Mackay “After years of languishing in second place, Sauvignon Blanc has turned a corner,” surpassing its glamorous rival Chardonnay. A chronology of its earlier, humbler days, and then, the emergence of the New Zealand Sauvignons. They “were more than just the anti-Chardonnay: They were unabashedly, unapologetically Sauvignon Blanc.” Now, there's a range of styles: Bordeaux, Loire/New Zealand. Includes a recommended list, “Picking California Sauvignon Blancs.” On an upswing downtown / by S. Irene Virbila Cafe Pinot is given a 2* rating. Joachim Splichal's first downtown spinoff of ten years “seems to have recaptured its momentum, at least at dinner.” Chef Mark Gold adds some graceful touches within the set style of Cafe Pinot to keep things interesting for its regulars. “It's a downtown restaurant with an authentic life, not dependent on conventions or tourists,” with a view of comsopolitan L.A. & its skyscrapers, urban & contemporary. There is a link to The Patina Group, which includes Cafe Pinot. Makai by any other name ... / by Leslee Komaiko Legal action over a restaurant name: “Koi” (trendy Japanese restaurant) vs. the newer restaurant “Kai” (now called “Makai”). A warming combination / by Barbara Hansen Culinary SOS provides chef Brandon Boudet recipe for Dominick's Italian wedding soup from Dominick's restaurant in West Hollywood. WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2002 Simon Bize & Fils Savigny-les-Beaune “Les Bourgeots”: Burgundy region; about $24; soft and earthy; goes with a classic roast chicken. “No waiting on this bottle: Buy it and drink it now. Your chicken will thank you.” *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories Thoroughly modern milieu / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Naya in Pasadena. Former owner of the House on Melrose, Scooter Kanfer has a new restaurant in Old Town Pasadena that's sleek, understated, contemporary, “Moderne,” as the menu calls it. Foie gras / by Leslee Komaiko Five locations to try “one of those foodstuffs few of us would ever attempt to cook with at home”: Sona in West Hollywood; The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Pasadena; L'Orangerie in West Hollywood; Aqua at St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort; Mélisse in Santa Monica.

NOTE: This is rjwong's first attempt in updating the LA Times Food section. Hopefully, it won't be my last. LA Times Food Section -- December 29, 2004 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com requires registration. You can log on with username "egulleteer" and password "lafood". Some content is in the premium section, called calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee, but you can see the calendarlive stories below free, for one week. Little works of art / by Laurie Winer Boule on La Cienega & Jin Patisserie in Venice are highlighted. Michelle Myers opened up Boule across the street from the restaurant Sona, that's runned by her husband, chef David Myers. Myers wants to replicate the feel of Parisian shops. Enrolled at San Francisco's California Culinary Academy & worked at Raffles in Singapore, owner Kristy Choo emphasizes Asian flavors at Jin Patisserie. Mind you, both borrow extensively from other cultures. There is a discussion thread on Boule. As dollar falls, wine price tags pop corks / by Laurie Winer Wine merchants bemoan the soaring wine prices, due to a weak US dollar and/or a strong euro. Americans have to deal with devalued currency. “There's no end in sight: Wine merchants expect prices to continue to rise.” Oh, poor Barolista -- must you go thirsty? / by David Shaw When Wine Spectator proclaimed the 2000 Barolos as “perfect,” worth 100 points, Barolista (or Barolo lover) David Shaw became worried that the Baroli would be priced beyond his reach. “As it turned out, a series of unhappy circumstances conspired to do just that.” The best of 2004 / by Charles Perry In 2004, the LA Times Food section published 380 recipes. Here are the 10 best: Fig and almond tart / Leslie Brenner article, recipe from Alain Giraud Cider-braised pork with fennel / Donna Deane article Spring vegetable ragout / Regina Schrambling article Limoncello / Charles Perry article, based on the recipe given on eGullet.com by forum host Katie Loeb Shrimp albondigas with guajillo-chipotle sauce / Susan LaTempa article Yum takrai (lemon grass with dried shrimp and cashews) / Barbara Hansen article, recipe from A-Roy Thai restaurant in Singapore Spinach and Parmesan tart / Emily Green article, recipe from Jeremy Lee, chef of the Blueprint Cafe in London Double-lemon cake / Regina Schrambling article Artichokes with prosciutto and cream / Russ Parsons article Crispy-skinned wild salmon with braised spring peas and mushrooms / Russ Parsons article, technique for crisping fish skin learned from Thomas Keller This year's food and drink Hall of Shame / by Valli Herman Dare I shame these nine worst offenders of ridiculous new food and drink products by mentioning them? Might as well: PB n' Go's peanut butter in a tube; Wet Willy's Edible Drink (a batch of 24-proof single-serving “adult gelatin cocktails”); Damrak gin (without the juniper, the thing that makes gin gin, sold as “the new vodka”); Liv-a-Littles dog treats (made with ingredients approved for human consumption); food-maker Sabra hired a professional sand sculptor to mold busts of Sen. Kerry & President Bust entirely out of hummus; Lt. Blender's Strawberry Daiquiri in a Bag; Gucci ice cube trays (a set of two rubber trays pops out G-logo ice for $60); Gourmet Garden herb paste in a tube; Slow Cooker Helper pot roast flavor. Style and substance / by S. Irene Virbila Meson G restaurant on Melrose is given a 2 1/2* rating. Tim and Liza Goodell of Aubergine in Newport Beach took over the Citrus/Alex space back in November. The chef is Eric Greenspan, formerly of Patina before it moved into Disney Hall. The result is an “avant-garde late-night Barcelona scene”, part Ferran Adrià's El Bulli influence, part Patina influence, “with a wildly eclectic crowd that's ready to dine till late.” Sparkling into the new year / by S. Irene Virbila “Here are a few to hunt down to ring the new year or keep on hand for that unforseen something to celebrate.” Champagne Krug Grand Cuvée nonvintage brut: Champagne region; $100; yeasty and opulent. Mionetto Vineyards Sergio Spumante Prosecco de Valdobiaddenne: Veneto region; $18; crisp and ripe. 1998 Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne de Cramant Grand Cru: Champagne region; about $60; elegant and refined. For the record Television programs -- A story in the Dec. 15 Food section about British chef Gordon Ramsay's TV shows said the series “Hell's Kitchen” would air in the fall of 2005. The program is not yet on Fox's schedule. In addition, the program “Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmare” was characterized as a BBC production, but although it airs in this country on BBC America, it was filmed in the United Kingdom by Channel 4. Mustard -- A gift-buying guide in the Dec. 15 section said that Denoix moutarde violette de Brive is made in Burgundy. It is made in Brive, France.

If you want some restaurants in downtown LA, there's a number of historic places to try: Original Pantry Cafe (owned by former LA mayor Richard Riordon & the decor is right out of a Raymond Chandler novel) Original Tommy's (since 1946, Tommy Koulax's chili cheese hamburger at Beverly & Rampart) Philippe (since 1908, "Home of the French Dipped Sandwich") Traxx (Mind you, the restaurant is not historic, but the location is, namely inside Union Station) Cicada (Wonderful Italian located in the Oviatt Building, the first Art Deco building in LA with the largest collection of Rene Lalique glass in North America) The Patina Group (This is Joachim Splichal's array of restaurants, including his flagship Patina located next to the Walt Disney Concert Hall) I'll stop the list here for now. FYI, DanaT, if you're driving down the coast to LA, you should stop in Santa Barbara & eat at this Mexican shack called La Super-Rica on Milpas St. & Alphonse St. Julia once recommended this place. Pardon me for being a bit curious, DanaT (OK, nosy): How did you get reservations for the French Laundry this far in advance, or did you??