rjwong

I've been doing some more “research” on Southern California steakhouses during the summer, going into the fall season. Here are the results on four steakhouses: LA Prime Steakhouse at The Westin Bonaventure in downtown LA has a nice view from the 32th floor. The service was friendly, informative & casual, perhaps too casual for some. The steak, however, was okay & ordinary. It didn't match up with the wonderful decor & view. Taylor's Steakhouse on Eighth St. near downtown LA is more of a neighborhood-type locale, IMO. The steak was a bit tough to cut, a step lower than your prime places. The atmosphere was clubby, with the leather booths, especially with those sports fans from that so-called university in downtown Los Angeles. The Grill on the Alley in Beverly Hills was a nice surprise. The steak was nice & juicy. Mind you, I ordered the NY pepper steak, which needed way more pepper. In spite of that, it was definitely one of the better steaks I have tasted. Also, the service was professional. Dakota at The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel is a scene, definitely a SABS (See And Be Seen). The Goodell's latest venture is the new popular place to be. The decor is excellent, dark tones, sophisticated.The hotel lounge area just outside the restaurant adds to that sophistication. The tables and chairs are huge. The place was hopping & buzzing on a Tues. night when our party of six dined there. The NY steak was juicy, flavorful, and acceptably portioned. The sides were small for the price, IMO. It took two orders of onion rings & one order of fries (total $21) to adequately fill six people. The LA Times food critic mentioned “attitude.” I didn't encounter any attitude. Mind you, the service was professional, no-nonsense, but a little casual. Overall, I can understand the one-and-a-half stars rating from the LA Times. While the decor and the current popularity is right up there, I would have expected more from the food, particularly from the Goodell's. That's it for now. I hear that more steakhouses are opening up. You would think that the Atkins diet is still going full-force.

I think it's called Mario's. Several months ago, it had a fire. But now, they're back up and running. Usually, I order the carne asada burrito con salsa roja, solamente ... for four bucks ... I need to correct myself, complete with photos ... The Grand Central Market in downtown Los Angeles. This picture was taken from Hill St. (west side) Halfway down this aisle, on the right side is ... Tomas, not Mario's I had the good fortune to have lunch with Holly Moore today. We both ordered two tacos, one with carne asada (beef), the other with carnitas (pork). Mine has the red salsa only; Holly's with onions, cilantro & green sauce. Two tacos for $4. Can you tell the difference between the carne asada & the carnitas.

Here's a link to a discusssion thread on Favorite Knives. In this particular post, Russ Parsons mentioned that he wrote an article on Japanese knives. You might want to find that article and/or PM him directly.

LA Times Food Section -- September 14, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Reinventing the cob / by Russ Parsons Corn is sweeter than ever, but how to recapture its true flavor? A few cooking tricks make all the difference. Despite the sweetness and texture, people complain that corn today doesn't have that “corn” flavor like it used to. Russ Parsons helps answer the question: What happened to corn in the first place? Includes three recipes: Sweet corn and shrimp 'risotto'; Grilled corn and arugula salad; Fresh corn blini with crema fresca; and two side articles, “Corn from the source” & “Yesterday, today and tomorrow in the cornfield” The beginning of a beautiful friendship / by Donna Deane and Judy Yao YOU can flirt with a silly pepper grinder or have a brief fling with an amusing but impractical cake pan, but a cook's relationship with a 12-inch skillet is no casual affair — it's a long-term commitment. This pan is your significant other in the kitchen: Day in, day out, it sears, sautés and deglazes for you. It stays with you step by step from browning to braising as you work on a multi-step recipe. Includes evaluations on these items: All-Clad Copper Core skillet (overall winner); Calphalon Contemporary Stainless; Anolon Advanced Clad skillet; All Clad Stainless; the 4-pound triple-ply skillet from Sur La Table; Calphalon One Infused Anodized 3.9-pound skillet; 11-inch, 4.72-pound Demeyere Atlantis. Where the sushi's on a roll / by Leslee Komaiko Enter the sushi wagon, the latest act in tableside entertainment. There's the sushi table, with space & privacy. Then, there's the sushi bar with the chef & the show. And now, there's the sushi wagon, just like it was 250 years ago ... Scotch's history, distilled / by Charles Perry A new book traces the spirit's rise from medieval elixir to the most popular whisky in the world. And this book, Charles MacLean's "Scotch Whisky: A Liquid History" (Cassell Illustrated, $24.95), is not only knowledgeable, but also quite readable. Secret's out: Chili judge tells all! / by Charles Perry We had to butter him up a bit to get him to talk. But, hey, it was worth it. Charles Perry has judged chili contests in his past. And what was it like, being a chili judge? ”You can't win. Being a chili judge is like asking people to show you photos of their children just so you can tell most of them that their kids aren't cute enough.” Includes the recipe for: The judge's chili Bet you can't eat just one / by Barbara Hansen THESE delectable bite-sized cheesy puffs from Minibar are served with crisp, quick-pickled red onion slices spiked with jalapeño. A takeoff on pão de queijo, Brazilian cheese rolls, they were brought to our attention by Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila, who says, "They're great with drinks." Only until further notice / by Regina Schrambling In New Orleans, a city defined by its culinary culture, restaurateurs vow to rebuild. There is a discussion thread about this article: Restaurateurs vow to rebuild Excitement on the side / by S. Irene Virbila The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Huntington Hotel & Spa in Pasadena is given a 3* rating. With some of the most inspired food around, chef Craig Strong quietly thrills palates at Pasadena's Ritz-Carlton. Strong, who came up in the hotel system, maintains his passion for hands-on cooking at this rather formal Dining Room. Mind you, a seating out on the terrace, ... overlooking the hotel's historic horseshoe-shaped garden, — now that's the ticket. And if that's not enough, chef Craig Strong is his own pastry chef. Virbila concludes: ”When you finally leave the Dining Room, your taste buds have been through a workout that takes you through a wide landscape of sweet, salty, sour and bitter. And at this restaurant, the chef is definitely in. You don't have to wonder: You can see him striding through the room on his way back to the kitchen.” WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2003 Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Baron: Rhône Valley; about $32; full-bodied and lush; goes with roasts and braises, duck and squab. Equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, this dense, chewy wine is the best Châteauneuf the estate has made in years. Doing right by the R-word RATATOUILLE was given a bum rap in "Don't Say That R-Word" by Regina Schrambling (Sept. 7). Street vendors MY congratulations on an extremely well-written article ("The Lure of the Outlaw Taco Cart" by Charles Perry, Aug. 31). I have read much regarding street vending (my thesis addressed the predicament of vendors, particularly taco-elote [corn] vending in L.A.) and your article was concise, informative and up to date. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Please pass the tapas / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Ciudad in downtown LA. Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, known as the "Too Hot Tamales", are offering an eclectic array of tapas for their Sunday night menu, and they don't mess around. The hearts of L.A. / by Leslee Komaiko Castroville may hold the "artichoke capital of the world" title. But here in L.A. we have no shortage of delicious artichoke dishes. Includes five restaurants: Stanley's on Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; Amici on N. Doheny Drive, Beverly Hills; Hollywood & Vine on Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; Nic's on N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills; Dominick's on Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood.

Only until further notice / by Regina Schrambling; Los Angeles Times, 14 Sept. 2005 In New Orleans, a city defined by its culinary culture, restaurateurs vow to rebuild.

El Tepeyac Cafe (aka Manuel's); 812 N. Evergreen Ave. ; LA, CA 90033; (323) 268-1960; Closed Tuesdays. Cash only. Here's the info on El Tepeyac. The Mexican food they serve is, IMO, a previous generation's recollection of Mexican food, as Mexican families were living in East LA & Boyle Heights back in the '50s & '60s. I would agree with FoodZealot. It's not bad, but nothing really special ... to me ... As for breakfast places, I've never eaten there, but I heard of a coffee shop called Nick's Cafe in downtown LA near Chinatown. Apparently owned by a LAPD detective since 1948. I might have to try it, if I can wake up eventually ... Nick's Cafe; 1300 N. Spring St.; LA, CA 90012 (323) 222-1450 Closed Sunday. Cash only.

Here's a recipe from a local cookbook that was put together by a group of Chinese women, including some of my relatives: Steamed Minced Pork (Jing Ger Yook Bang) 1 lb. pork butt or pork steak, minced fine 4 fresh water chestnuts (mah tai), peeled & chopped. Can be omitted. 1 tsp. cornstarch 1/2 tsp. salt 1 Tbl. soy sauce 1 tsp. salad oil Mix all together & put into a shallow dish. Steam for 45 minutes. That's a basic recipe. You can add other things. I rather have salted fish (hom yue) with some shredded ginger root and a little oil on top before steaming the whole dish. Make sure the hom yue is HOM!

Don't forget the Original Pantry for breakfast. It's located on the NW corner of Figueroa & 9th St. in downtown LA , a couple blocks north from Staples Center. It's open 24/7. I second that statement, Holly ... sir ...

LA Times Food Section -- September 7, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Rio bravura! / by Susan LaTempa With gaucho pants, feathers and sizzling skewers, the Brazilian party's in full swing. The explosion of Brazilian churrascarias (all-you-can-eat barbecues) has arrived in Los Angeles, from mom-and-pop places to high-end corporate productions. ... but one thing they have in common is a generous helping of party attitude. Includes three recipes: Feijoada; Mousse de maracujá (passion fruit mousse); Avocado and palmito empanadas Flavor on a leaf / by Betty Baboujon Lettuce cups contrast savory fillings with cool exteriors. They're so delicious you can even forget the sauce. This traditional Chinese dish brings a little yin-yang into your dining experience. Sure, you can find lettuce cups in restaurants, but make them at home and your effort will be amply rewarded. Includes three recipes: Beef lettuce wraps; Dried oyster lettuce cups; Shrimp artichoke lettuce cups Don't say that R-word / by Regina Schrambling Eggplant, zucchini and peppers can add up to so much more than, er, vegetable stew. I'm going to say the R-word anyways. Ratatouille is a wonderful late summer dish. Mind you, use your imagination, with a little variation, in combining these three vegetables differently. There's no reason to keep cooking the vegetables in exactly the same way. Includes three recipes: Zucchini- eggplant-pepper polpettine; Eggplant-zucchini-pepper enchiladas; Zucchini-eggplant-pepper timbales Cafes, churrascarias and clubs: Where to go for a taste of Brazil / by Susan LaTempa It's the party spirit that sets Brazilian restaurants apart — the best have crowd-pleasing menus and an atmosphere that encourages socializing. Note that churrascaria all-you-can-eat prices do not include beverages or desserts. Lightning bolt born in Brazil / by Charles Perry Long a liquor of the working class, cachaça is making a new splash. Here in the U.S., cachaça (ka-SHAH-sa), the Brazilian liquor made from sugar cane juice, has moved up the social ladder, along with all things Brazilian. Includes two recipes: Batida de maracujá (passion fruit batida); Piña punch Real Sichuan's worldly side / by Linda Burum After decades of wannabe fare, L.A. has Best Szechuan Chili & Seafood, offering the real deal in modern urban Sichuan cuisine. Located on Garfield in Monterey Park, this restaurant does contemporary Sichuan food, not just Cantonese food with a few chile peppers and peanuts thrown in. Hurricane benefits planned / by Cindy Dorn BEFORE Hurricane Katrina devastated the Gulf Coast, the mention of New Orleans inevitably led to a discussion of that city's great cuisine. But now all talk, naturally, is of the desperate need for food, supplies and shelter. Sophisticated lady / by S. Irene Virbila Tower Bar is given a 2* rating. New York hotelier Jeff Klein decided to install his own Tower Bar and restaurant at the landmark Art Deco Argyle Hotel, to bring back some of Hollywood's glamor of yesteryear. Under chef Piero Morovich, the contemporary American menu is much more appealing. Who would have thought you could find such civilized comforts on the Sunset Strip? WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2002 Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay: Santa Cruz Mountains; about $35; Burgundian; goes with shellfish, Dungeness crab, wild salmon, fish in sauce. Minerally and crisp, the 2004 comes on strong with delicious, focused fruit, a light touch of oak and a finish that positively loiters. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday This time of year is just divine / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Il Grano. At Il Grano, Salvatore Marino maximizes the bounty of tomato vines. And with more than 30 varieties in his home garden, you can see that chef Marino is fascinated with this exotic fruit. And yes, the tomato is a fruit. You say 'tomato' / by Leslee Komaiko Heirloom tomatoes are big on flavor and come in hundreds of shapes, sizes and colors. To us, they are summertime. Includes five restaurants: Mélisse on Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica; Studio on S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach; Angeli Caffé on Melrose Ave., L.A.; Table 8 on Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; Chez Mélange on S. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach.

First, congratulations to you two! Second, I don't know of any fine dining places in South Lake Tahoe. If you don't mind, drive from SLT "over the grade" to Carson Valley, where Gardnerville, Minden & Carson City are located. Along the 395 in Gardnerville is this local Basque restaurant called JT's. All the locals go there. For one price, you're served soup, salad, stew (beef or tongue), then your entree, beans, bread, and ice cream for dessert. There may be a couple of fine dining places in Genoa, also in the Carson Valley. I have some friends who live and grew up in the Carson Valley, right near South Lake Tahoe. Let me see what I can find out.

Crawfish Étouffée Goes Into Exile by KIM SEVERSON and JULIA MOSKIN (New York Times, September 6, 2005)

Great job, everyone, and especially to you, Varmint!! Nothin' could be finer than a pig pickin' in Carolina ... Now I know why Dave was smilin', you dawg you ... Thank you for the hush puppies. They looked illegally delicious. Rachel, do I see a tub of ... Cool Whip ...?? Couple of last things, Dean: What was the sauce you added into the pork? Was it Pistol Pete? As for the photo of the pig's foot in the tub, you have got to use that picture somehow. Again, thank y'all for puttin' on the pig pickin'.

JenBrava, First, congratulations on your honeymoon!! Second, I'm sorry to hear that you had an awful experience at the Bellagio Buffet. Did you report this to the management? Since you all stayed at the Bellagio, you should definitely write a gracious, yet firm letter to them why your dining experience was less than acceptable, if you haven't already. Based upon my personal experience, as recently as 4th of July 2005 & Christmas 2004, the Bellagio Buffet has been wonderful. Mind you, buffet-style restaurants tend to bring out the little piggy in me (Well, this little piggy can't eat as much as he used to ... )

TAPrice, here's the link: Hurricane claims historic restaurant

BryanZ, the reason everything looks amazing is because the pig pickin' was headed up by a TARHEEL named Varmint!! No Dookie could pull this off ... successfully ... Great job, Dean!! BTW, Dean, are you using Pistol Pete? Folks, may I have one virtual order of hush puppies, please? I promise I'll share ...

I think it's called Mario's. Several months ago, it had a fire. But now, they're back up and running. Usually, I order the carne asada burrito con salsa roja, solamente ... for four bucks ... LA Times Food Section Digest (31 Aug. 2005) has an article by Charles Perry about those illegal taco carts ... and the county health inspectors that love to inspect them ...

Everything looks good so far. I hope y'all have enuf to eat at the pig pickin', yuh know what I mean ... For your virtual dining pleasure, please click here for a nine-course Cantonese dinner. It is geographically germane, because this is food from Southern China. Miss Marlene, ma'am, probably after this weekend, you just might become a Southern Canadian, ehh??

Mary ... please ... that's a silly question. Obviously, it tastes like chicken!!

I don't think so. Mind you, I have never eaten a chicken's head. Probably, the head is included with the dish because it shows completeness. Economically, I figure since someone paid for the whole chicken, the whole chicken with head is served. When it comes to food, we don't want to get cheated out of anything, I suppose. You buy a whole winter melon. Cut the top off as a lid. Clean out the inside seeds and pulp. Fill the melon with soup broth, about 3/4 full. Add other ingredients. The fun part is putting the whole melon into a huge pot for steaming. You may first need to put the melon inside a small bowl before putting it into the huge pot. Steam it for several hours. Make sure there's enough broth inside the melon while steaming. Notice that the melon has plastic wrap surrounding it. That's to maintain its structural integrity. This is the basic recipe. There's a more detailed version in Gloria Bley Miller's book, The thousand recipe Chinese cookbook.

Recently, there was a MOE in LA: Chinese Dinner over at Empress Pavilion. The thread is now complete with a report & photos of the nine-course Cantonese meal. I don't know about FOX, but ABC is on the NE corner of Ord & New High St., one block away of CBS.

Member-Organized Event in Los Angeles: Chinese Dinner August 28, 2005, Empress Pavilion We were standing around in front of the restaurant, waiting for a couple of more people. A family matter, an accident, a reggae concert ... Whatever the reasons, it was going to be six of us ultimately. A James Beard Award-winning author, a worker from King's Hawaiian, an employee who works for the Grammys, a couple of spouses, and a librarian. Who would have thought that these six people would have enjoyed a nine-course Cantonese-style Chinese banquet at Empress Pavilion in the heart of Los Angeles Chinatown? Well, we did. Here's how the banquet went ... It started off with appetizers: Soy sauce chicken with chilled jellyfish. It should have been BBQ pork and roast duck, but it would have taken an extra thirty minutes ... Everybody seemed to like the jellyfish. This was a good sign. The winter melon soup had to be ordered in advance. It takes several hours to cook this entire baby: And what a presentation! By concensus, this dish was worth the price of admission! Whole crispy chicken Along with some shrimp chips, the chicken comes complete with its head: Suddenly, there ensued an onslaught of dishes, one right after another. Trying to keep up with taking food photos was not easy: Scallops with garden vegetables Sizzling filet of beef with Cantonese sauce Empress Pavilion clay pot Whole clams in black bean sauce Sauteed green beans with dry style Steamed whole rock cods with ginger and green onions The culinary deluge ended. No more photos right now. We're eating ... All right! Here's one more picture with everything except the appetizers: And to end the meal, Chinese fortune cookies ... : The Chinese banquet was enjoyed by all, except for a few ... Might have to do another MOE in LA sometime later ...

LA Times Food Section -- August 31, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. The perfect burger / by Emily Green For chef Nancy Silverton, that means the right meat, peak-season tomatoes and a great bun. It's as easy -- and fabulous -- as it sounds. And don't forget the toppings, including a few different mayonnaises. The recipes are part of her upcoming Knopf book in praise of cooking from cans, "Twist of the Wrist." Includes four recipes: Nancy's burgers; Spicy chipotle mayonnaise; Garlic mayonnaise; Anchovy and olive mayonnaise Hurry, there's still time for a blueberry bonanza / by Betty Baboujon PITY the poor blueberry. Even though it's not as showy as the other berries, the blueberry has a long local season, ... starting as early as January and stretching into September. Includes three recipes: Blueberry browned-butter tart; Blueberry and caramelized orange marmalade focaccia; Watermelon blueberry soup Finally, the wine bar is raised / by Corie Brown Goodbye, Chard; forget Cabernet. Angelenos are showing derring-do by the glass. Since the film “Sideways,” everybody is freely talking about wine, trusting sommeliers in trying something new. As Kevin O'Connor, sommelier at Spago in Beverly Hills, explains: ”But that's what's so great about L.A. It's the combination of naiveté and open-mindedness. There is no inculcated wine culture here…. So, no one is jaded. Everyone is fresh. In L.A., we're curious." Includes the side article, ”Hot off the lists“ The lure of the outlaw taco cart / by Charles Perry THE scent of frying beef wafts down the sidewalk. Knots of people stand around socializing in the mild summer dusk, waiting for carne asada tacos. Never mind that you'll find these tacos at night after county health inspectors go home from work. And by the way, the vast majority of taco carts are nowhere near code. Color us very confused / by Leslee Komaiko The new Solar Harvest in Beverly Hills is the place to work for your food -- like it or not. The menu comes complete with colored dots and a menu key ... Duboeuf admits Beaujolais wine error PARIS — France's Beaujolais king Georges Duboeuf, under investigation for mixing premium wine with a cheap grade, said the blend had been made in error but it never went on sale. There's still that friendly vibe / by S. Irene Virbila Maple Drive in Beverly Hills is given a 2* rating. Maple Drive's new chef Vincent Manna, formerly of Spago, is finding a balance between dishes that cater to the restaurant's regulars and those designed to show what he can do. Maple Drive is a home away from home, with all the comforts of a beloved institution, topped with the charm of a little jazz trio. WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2004 Cantine San Marco Frascati Superiore De' Notari', Italy: Castelli Romani; about $10; ripe and refreshing; goes with seafood. Ripe and full in the mouth, the 2004 has a perfume of melon, pear and citrus, and finishes dry and refreshing. For the record Restaurant manager— In last Wednesday's section, an article about sauce spoons misspelled the last name of Bastide's general manager Gregory Castells as Casteles. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Decisions, decisions / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Boule on N. La Cienega Blvd. Pastry chef Michelle Myers is now offering sandwiches, along with her beautiful pastries, ice cream & sorbets. Her sandwiches, though, are curiously rustic, heavy on the bread. Beyond PB&J / by Leslee Komaiko A sandwich, as that old commercial says, is just a sandwich. But a sandwich from a bakery is something else, because you know the bread'll be great. Includes five restaurants: Susina Bakery & Café on Beverly Blvd.; EuroPane on E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena; Jin Patisserie on Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; Sweet Lady Jane on Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; La Brea Bakery on S. La Brea Ave.

This should be my last post before the Chinese dinner at Empress Pavilion on Sunday 28 August 2005 at 5:00 p.m. Final count: 9 people rjwong Radio7 + 1 guest Ore Matsu + 1 guest LainaAS + 1 guest archestratus Let's all meet outside the restaurant by the "Empress Pavilion" sign a few minutes before, please. Last minute information: The restaurant validates parking for one and a half hours. Afterwards, it's 60 cents for every 30 minutes. The cost is about $30 per person. I went to the restaurant on Wed. and had to order in advance the winter melon soup. The rest of the menu is pretty much the same as previously posted. The clay pot is more of a seafood clay pot with vegetables and tofu. As for posting the dinner photos, it may take a week or so because my computer is having some hard drive problems. Well, Murphy was an optimist ... That's about it until Sunday. If you haven't eaten a 9-course meal, try to pace yourselves. I hope there's enough food for everyone ... See you on Sunday!!

Here's a picture of the restaurant: The small left entrance door leads you into the deli, where you can order dim sum to go.

LA Times Food Section -- August 24, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Art of the noodle / by Russ Parsons Great soba, deliciously cool and silky, is a revelation. Especially when it's handmade. Then, people in the know go to Otafuku in Gardena, where Seiji Akutsu crafts handmade soba at his tiny restaurant. Not every place uses fresh soba because it's difficult to make. That's because buckwheat, which isn't technically a member of the wheat family, contains no gluten ... Without gluten, buckwheat doughs are extremely fragile. Contrastly, Akutsu says, "Soba is so easy to make," ... proving himself a master of kenkyo, the Japanese ritual of hyperbolic modesty. Includes three recipes: Traditional soba-tsuyu; Green tea soba salad with grilled shrimp; Green tea soba with flounder and enoki mushrooms Sake, the stylish sensation / by Linda Burum NOT long ago, tossing back tiny cups of hot sake to wash down sushi or tempura was about the cool ritual and the warm rush of alcohol. But today, artisanally produced sakes, served cold and savored slowly, have exploded onto the scene, extending far beyond Japanese restaurants. Sakes pop up in food pairings and tasting flights at tony restaurants, sommeliers wheel out carts with dozens of varieties, and $200 bottles aren't at all unusual. Mind you, sake is still one of the great mysteries from the East. Most Americans, even the most adventurous of diners, would be considered sake neophytes. Burum introduces this advice: ... Learn a few terms, rely on knowledgeable sommeliers, and it's easier to make sense of it all than you might think. The rewards are tremendous. Includes three side articles: ”How to read a sake label”; “Where to sip them, where to buy them”; “Tasting through the sake styles” Trailblazers / by Susan LaTempa A lunch for a day hike has to travel well, fit into a small pack and still be delicious. Tall order? Try this one. With nature as your playground instead of the hectic realities of urban life, enjoy that midway point of your hike with ... a casual combination of great rustic dishes that ingeniously fit into a single small pack. Includes four recipes: Fig pâté; Pickled crudités; Cheese focaccia squares; Tarragon lemonade One, two, three: voilà! / by Regina Schrambling After buying berries fresh from the farmers' market, you get whipping cream from the store, and see those Technicolor fruit tarts in a glass case, and think, I could do that, and better, for a lot less than $30. Go ahead! Now's the time! Includes the recipe: Summer fruit tart It's a party / by Susan LaTempa There's something about Gaby's that turns a meal with friends into an event. Order with abandon. After all, you're here to share. Gaby's Mediterranean restaurant on Venice Boulevard in Palms comes with lively conversation, as well as hummus, falafel, pita sandwiches, shish kebab, seafood plates and salads. Unpretentious and real ... Sauce spoon sighting! / by Leslie Brenner Although commonplace in French restaurants from New York to Paris, in L.A. they’re a rarity. But the little notched spoons are making a comeback Well, that little notched spoon is called ... a sauce spoon. And everybody has their own theories about what that notch is for. On the lookout for luxury / by S. Irene Virbila Aqua at the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort in Dana Point is given a 1½* rating. A spectacular setting, plush surroundings, a pedigreed chef — so what's missing at Aqua at the St. Regis? Irene has quite a list: from a restaurant design that's more Las Vegas than quiet refinement; inattention to the details in the service; and a less ambitious menu. The new executive chef, Laurent Manrique, ... must feel like he's cooking in a straitjacket. The main course list reads like so many others: wild king salmon, tuna, scallops, duck, beef. Mind you, Irene mentions that at press time, Manrique informed Virbila's editor that the restaurant may closed due to differences between him and the hotel. I hope that won't happen and that the two parties can find a resolution. WINE OF THE WEEK / S. Irene Virbila 2003 Sandrone Barbera d'Alba, Italy: Piedmont; about $29; voluptuous, yet firm; goes with cold cuts and ham, grilled sausages and pork chops, pasta dishes. It's a wonderful blend of power and finesse, voluptuous fruit and firm structure. For the record Market eatery — Last week's article about ethnic markets gave the wrong address and hours for LAX-C market, where Thai eatery B-B-Q Express is located. The market is at 1100 N. Main St. in Los Angeles. The market is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday. B-B-Q Express is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Pastry chef's name — In last week's Culinary SOS, which featured a fig Armagnac soufflé, the last name of Hotel Bel-Air pastry chef Robert Witkoski was misspelled as Witkowski. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday Romance above the waves / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Moonshadows in Malibu. This is a better menu than at many other places along the oceanfront, though not something you'd drive miles out of your way to eat unless you had to have that view. ]Here's the dish on fast-food secrets / by Dog Davis. From knowing how to buy a tax-free latte to ordering your burger like a pro, there are some things a consumer simply must know. View finder / by Leslee Komaiko Everything tastes better with the ocean in sight. Here are a few places to get your view on. Includes five restaurants: Jer-ne at the Ritz-Carlton in Marina del Rey; Motif at the St. Regis in Dana Point; Jody Maroni's Sausage Kingdom in Venice; Geoffrey's in Malibu; Back on the Beach in Santa Monica.