rjwong

LA Times Food Section -- December 14, 2005 HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Throw open the doors / by Russ Parsons It's party season! Time to spread some holiday cheer with a glorious buffet that couldn't be easier. Russ Parsons details how to “really cut loose” at your holiday party with a buffet. All it takes is a little strategizing to get things right. Includes four recipes: Tart of mixed greens; Dungeness crab salad with avocado and bitter greens; Carrots with smoky pimentón-orange glaze; Roast tenderloin of beef with horseradish crème fraîche Sweets to make them swoon / by Susan LaTempa No matter how wonderful the array of savory dishes on the buffet, at an open house some folks can't help but stop by the dessert table first. Who can blame them? For sweets lovers, a lavish display — and the possibilities of multiple choices — is an irresistible temptation. Includes two recipes: Espresso angel food cake; Chocolate Rigo squares Dazzling drinks, on the house / by Corie Brown The right red and white, an affordable sparkler and a jazzy house cocktail: Now that's a holiday bar. And the challenges don't have to overwhelm you. But how do you set a holiday bar without going crazy, broke or both? Includes three recipes for drinks: Golden Pommes (from Providence bartender Vincenzo Marianella); Purple Rain (from Wilshire restaurant bartender Dennis Lynn); Boston Sidecar (from Patina bartender Matt Duggan) Wrapped up in the season / by Barbara Hansen Have you noticed? In recent years, more and more Southern California families are adding a bit of Latino spice to the mix of foods from around the world we embrace at this time of year. Alongside such Christmas favorites as plum pudding from Britain, panettone from Italy and gingerbread from Germany, we've added a heaping platter of hot, fragrant tamales. If you want some tamales for the holidays, place your order as soon as possible. Feel the warmth / by Amy Scattergood What could be more inviting than a hot mug of rich, creamy, flavorful soup? Includes two recipes: Roasted chestnut soup; Pumpkin soup Trimming the table / by Laurie Winer After all the shopping, the chopping, the cooking and the last-minute runs for ice, now comes the fun part. The aesthetically pleasing part. WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2001 Aia Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville: Napa Valley; about $25; soft and lush; goes with roasted and grilled meats, poultry. For a Napa Valley Cabernet of this quality, it's a steal. LETTERS Just review the food, not the city IT'S hard to fathom what belittling a city brings to a restaurant review ["Energy Enough to Shout About," Dec. 7]. At the very least, the attitude should be somewhat subtle and not blatant ridicule. If this sounds like petulance, well, maybe it is. In essence, it's the words I enjoy reading articles by Russ Parsons. Not only does he write interesting stories, he frequently stimulates the palate with his words. A dish that doesn't need a recipe I couldn't help smiling at this article ["It's a Peppery Pasta," Dec. 7]. I never knew one needed a recipe for this dish, which is what Sicilians/Italians throw together for lunch/dinner when we need something light and quick, don't have anything else on hand, or just plain feel like it. For the record http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo...es-food]Oysters — An article in last week's section on Olympia oysters referred to Washington state's Olympia Peninsula. It is the Olympic Peninsula. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories Presto chango: Italiano! / by S. Irene Virbila Solare on Beverly Blvd. is given a 1½* rating. Chef-owner Paolo Giovani, who used to own Il Sole on Sunset Plaza in West Hollywood, moved into the former EM Bistro that quietly vanished after three months. And the menu is very familiar, just like every other Italian restaurant. Why another Italian restaurant? That said, at Solare, almost every dish is better executed than at most of the Italian spots around town. A taste of pho, a dash of urban chic / by Susan LaTempa Distinctive flavors come together splendidly at Benley, a Long Beach bright spot. Benley: A Vietnamese Kitchen on E. Wardlow Road, Long Beach, is located in a desolate sprawl-mall, instead of Long Beach's art neighborhood. That's no problem. Word of mouth rules. Sunset and Vine blossoms / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Magnolia on Sunset Blvd. in Hollywood. Cody Diegel, who came from the Belmont in West Hollywood, has designed a menu that can be described as either classic American or dead boring, depending on your perspective. And the location is ideal: park once (yes, ONCE), go to a movie and have a bite to eat at Magnolia. What a dream! Skirt chaser / by Leslie Komaiko The skirt steak may not have the glamorous rep of filet mignon. But we think it's positively delicious. Plus it's relatively inexpensive. No wonder chefs love it. Includes five places: Lemon Moon on W. Olympic Blvd., West L.A.; El Torito Grill on Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; A.O.C. on W. 3rd St., L.A.; Lala's on Melrose Ave., L.A.; Beechwood on Washington Blvd., Venice.

tb86, Welcome to the California forum! I haven't been there ... yet. I'm definitely planning to go. I just have to prepare myself and my credit card for the event. In the meantime, the link to LA Times's review of Providence is in the LA Times Food Section Digest, submitted weekly by some eG Specialist. The LA Times food critic gave it 3*. When she mentioned it first in her "Critic's Notebook" before the full review came out, I sensed she was in culinary ecstasy. I've heard many great things about chef Michael Cimarusti from a friend. Here's the website link to Providence.

Spot on! As for the Sommelier-Pianist Eva, I wouldn't be surprised if she can play Ravel's Gaspard de la nuit, while at the same time perform the duties of a wine steward at the Aureole Restaurant in Las Vegas. Since you have definitely shown yourself as quite the traveller, please assess the restaurant dining scenes of the various major cities during your tenure. Yes, go ahead and mention the usual American suspects, if you wish, particularly the Los Angeles area where I reside. As for Vancouver, do you find that people from other cities look at you with dropped jaws and staring eyes when Vancouver is mentioned as a dining destination?

Mon/ma camarade, your long-lost Cantonese cousin has found you!! As for talking about the food being served (particularly in a restaurant), personally I rather not. I want to enjoy the entire dining experience, instead of giving constant comments after every bite. Isn't it to the chef's credit that the diner is enjoying the meal so much that he is silently eating. The food speaks for itself! Would that be considered rude in France?

Thank you, Kit. I just need to get over my "hang-up" with using yeast and waiting ... waiting ... and waiting for the dough to rise. Mind you, with baking soda or baking powder, instant results! As for crumpet rings, would a good hardware store do?

rm, I'm rather surprised about that "under 18" policy for the Bellagio Buffet. I was in Las Vegas for Christmas last year and there were plenty of children running around there. The way their buffet works is you stand in line, first come first served, unless you're all staying at the Bellagio or you get comped. And on Christmas Day, unless you get there when they first open, be prepared for a two-hour plus wait (You read correctly). You may want to send a PM to nightscotsman directly. He works at the Bellagio. Do not miss the JP Maury Patisserie. You can order a savory crepe, a pastry & a drink for about $20. I'm glad you're going to Lotus of Siam. It's really good and relaxing, away from the Strip. Another nice restaurant away from the Strip (about seven miles away from the Sahara Hotel) is Rosemary's Restaurant. There are a number of discussion threads about Las Vegas Dining. I'm certain others will chime in soon for recent updates. I hope your family has a Merry Christmas & a Happy Boxing Day! Edited to add: There's the Burger Bar at Mandalay Bay. The burgers are very good there. They also have a $60 burger topped with foie gras.

Eagle Rock, like Glendale, is pretty close to SGV & downtown LA. I'd be very surprised if there's a decent Chinese restaurant IN Eagle Rock itself. Where I live in Glendale, I just drive 15-20 minutes and I'm at Sam Woo's in Chinatown, if I can find street parking close by.

Here's a discussion thread titled Food in Venice. Mind you, that's Venice, California, located just south of the city of Santa Monica, north of LAX (Los Angeles International Airport). In the discussion thread above, there are three restaurants that seem to be really good (just to summarize): Beechwood, American; Joe's, California French; Beacon, Pan-Asian Were you interested in Mexican and/or Latin American cuisine? Or tapas, American-style? Wine bars? Will you have a car available to you? Many of the restaurants are concentrated around Beverly Hills, West Hollywood, Melrose Ave., Beverly Blvd., etc.

FYI http://www.guittard.com San Francisco Location Guittard Chocolate Company 10 Guittard Road Burlingame, CA 94010 Phone: 1-650-697-4427 Fairfield Distribution Center Guittard Chocolate Company 2701 Guittard Way Fairfield, CA 94533 Phone: 1-707-399-9977 General Phone Number: 1-800-468-2462 General Fax: 1-650-692-2761 Industrial Orders Fax: 1-650-552-2111

I suppose you were enjoying yourself, with tongue firmly planted in ... cheeks. divalasvegas, you took my line ... Please describe the flavor & the texture of the wild boar cheeks. How "gamey" was it? It didn't dry out, ehh? The pairing with the Shiraz, how well did it work? I'm speculating that the boar cheeks had a strong flavor & needed something similiarly strong as well.

Dr. Susan, Welcome to eGullet! Do you have an oven thermometer? When you turn on the oven to 350 degrees, does the thermometer inside the oven say the same temperature? Do you have a pocket thermometer to check the internal temperature of the meat? How long do you cook the roast beef? How many minutes per pound? How do you and your husband like your meat? Medium? Medium-rare? Rare? Pardon the inquisition, Dr. Susan. This 18-year culinary situation must not be easy for you, ehh?

As a professional librarian (MSLS, UNC-Chapel Hill, 1989), I am very pleased in your desire in wanting a bibliography on Italian food compiled. Robert Brown is wise in bringing up the issues of organizational structure, selections, publication formats, languages, ephemera, etc. Not everything can be found on Google and/or Yahoo! And whatever is online today can, uhh, disappear tomorrow. In that respect, Robert, you are ..."the Sage of eGullet." In spite of the challenges, I wouldn't mind being involved somehow in this opportunity.

For your convenience, I made a link to Star Kitchen. It is a really good store. I can just stay in there for a long time and dream. FYI Van Nuys is located right in the middle of the San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles area, about a 20-30 minute drive west from Universal Studios.

Irish Soda Bread: What a revelation! No eggs. No yeast. No waiting umpteen million hours for the dough to rise, ehh? Do you prefer one type of dried fruit and/or an assortment thereof?

I went to La Terza last Tuesday night, which is Italian Tavola night with Nancy Silverton. The tavola was great as usual. Afterwards, I asked Nancy when the new restaurant will be open. She said hopefully in the fall [of 2006]. Keep waiting, folks!

podolski, Welcome to the California forum! If you could answer Chris's question about what area you're going to stay at in the LA area, that would help tremendously. Also, what types of cuisine are you interested in? How adventurous are you? Chinese? Thai? Japanese? Korean? Hawaiian? Armenian? Cuban? American chain restaurants? LA has many ethnic places. In the meanwhile, go ahead and click on this link to help you get started: Los Angeles Restaurants Discussion Thread Index. Could you give us a dollar amount when you say "moderate in price"? $25 USD per person? $50? Just in case, there's the price of the meal, PLUS an 8.25% sales tax. That does NOT include gratuity or tip (usually 15% of the meal BEFORE the sales tax). I'm saying all this because I suspect this is your first time to CA and I notice you are from Malaga (Spain), correct? If you have other culinary questions, please let us know.

jamiemaw, your brilliant blog may be a better beaut than the blogging bit from the bloke in Burnaby, ehh? So much for alliteration ...

LA Times Food Section -- December 7, 2005 Viewing the LA Times website, www.latimes.com, requires registration. If that is unacceptable, try clicking this link here, enter the URL address of the LA Times and proceed accordingly. Some content is in the premium section called www.calendarlive.com, which requires an additional fee. Return of the native / by Russ Parsons Tiny, sweet Olympia oysters, a West Coast treasure, are making a comeback. The Olympia (Ostrea lurida), the sole oyster native to the West Coast, is small in size but huge in flavor. There were many during the time of the California '49ers. But by the early 20th century, the Olympias were starting to disappear. Although it is too early to proclaim a new boom for the Olympia oyster ... for the first time in a long time, its future looks bright. Includes the side article, ”Where to buy Olympia oysters” Come fry with me / by Donna Deane Fritto misto, the crisp and golden 'mixed fry' that's an Italian staple, is popping up at restaurants all over L.A. -- and it's perfect for a cocktail party. Includes two recipes: Valentino's fritto misto and Literati II's vegetable fritto misto Is lunch the new dinner? / by Leslee Komaiko Lunch debuts at three L.A. restaurants. Why are restaurants bothering with lunch service? Why the apparent comeback? An old friend in new digs / by Susan LaTempa Out Take Bistro, a polished favorite in Studio City, keeps the faith even as it changes its address. The larger space adds to the already-present comforts of civilization that diners expect, ... and a bit of élan — in their restaurants, without the high prices. Oh, maybe just a taste / by Valli Herman Through flickering candlelight, the gastronomically curious chart a course through the maze of offerings. This is a tasting. From wines to cheeses to mini-desserts to even squashes, these tastings are being organized everywhere, with their roots in menu dégustation, the chef's tasting menu. Why eat when you can taste? An overnight sensation / by Donna Deane Mix up a buttery yeasted dough the evening before, and bake a superb coffeecake for breakfast. Includes the recipe, Overnight coffeecake It's a peppery pasta / by Barbara Hansen Enoteca Drago's spaghetti with pepper and pecorino cheese is deceptively simple but really shows off good cheese, says Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila. Best of all, it can be put together quickly with ingredients likely to be on hand. The recipe is from executive chef Michael Young. Fearless frying / by Amy Scattergood Although it isn't as difficult as you'd think to deep-fry foods at home (all you need is a thick-bottomed stockpot and more oil than you might otherwise use in a year), it can be a messy and somewhat tricky business, especially if you want to fry in large batches. Keeping the oil at a constant temperature, frying foods evenly, and preventing spatters and burns are all issues. Energy enough to shout about / by S. Irene Virbila Biggs in Long Beach is given a 2* rating. The owner, Bret Witke, had a number of familiar names involved in this Mediterranean restaurant with a California twist: Nancy Silverton, Amy Pressman, and the chef, Seth Greenburg, who was sous chef at Meson G. Biggs is strictly casual, lively, fun, and unpretentious. ... this restaurant has the menu and offbeat spirit to keep you interested time after time, which is exactly what's needed in a neighborhood place. WINE OF THE WEEK / by S. Irene Virbila 2003 Bodegas Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero: Ribera del Duero, Spain; about $38; rich and full-bodied; goes with roast duck or pigeon, rack of lamb, braised lamb shank. The 2003 Dominio de Atauta has the breeding and finesse of a much more expensive wine. LETTERS Thanksgiving made easy SO I had my laptop set up on the counter, with your pictorial "how-to" on carving the turkey booted up, much to everyone's amusement [latimes.com/thanksgiving]. Ha! That turkey came apart like a dream — no problem! That was the most helpful how-to-carve piece I've come across. So many reviews, so few stars WHY is so much space spent on reviews of restaurants that are given such bad ratings? Seldom does it seem that those reviewed get even two stars. Does The Times view the task of warning the public of rip-offs in dining more important than presenting those at which good food can be found? In love with blue cheese I loved Regina Schrambling's blue cheese story ["Our Brilliant Blues," Nov. 30]. My wife and I came upon the Old Chatham Sheepherding Co. in upstate New York. Its blue cheeses are out of this world, especially Ewe's Blue, a pure sheep's milk cheese. *********************************************************** *********************************************************** Calendarlive Stories on Thursday A vine-covered bodega / by S. Irene Virbila Critic's notebook on Bodega de Córdova on S. Fairfax Ave. Owner Kenny Córdova has a passion for Spain and Spanish wines. Thus, he opened this bare-bones Spanish wine bar with a limited menu (traditional tapas, nothing hot) and a “Cash only” policy. The place has such an endearing vibe, it's easy to spend a couple of hours nursing a bottle of Rioja ... Holiday cheer / by Leslie Komaiko The new year is around the corner. It's time to raise of glass ... of Syrah or Gewurztraminer. Includes five places: Bellavino Wine Bar on E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Westlake Village; The Ritz-Carlton, Huntington Hotel on S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena; Broadway Deli on Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica; Coco Palm on Fairplex Drive, Pomona; XO Wine Bistro on Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach.

FYI Here's a discussion thread (with lots of photos) at this very high-end sushi restaurant in Los Angeles called Urasawa. Figure on bringing at least $400 per person.

FYI I'm certain there are a number of discussion threads about goat, including this one being shamelessly plugged by yours truly.

Have you looked at Michael Cimarusti's new restaurant in Los Angeles, Providence? It opened at the end of June 2005.

Should we send the RCMP to rescue you, Marlene? Perhaps Jake needs to be rescued more. You did have time to take photos of your party, ehh? BTW, whose idea was it in the first place to schedule a party the day after your vacation? A rhetorical question, if you wish ...

Thank you for the blog, chardgirl! It truly has been very educational to me. Now, back to learning and eating my vegetables...

Add one more: Il Cucchiaio d'argento (in English). Yes, it's The silver spoon.

Pan, it's too late. Daniel already posted it elsewhere.