Chris Amirault

Michael Ruhlman has a new book coming out called Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking. Here's a blurb from that Amazon page: I'm very intrigued to hear more about this book. Ruhlman's last attempt at nailing the elements of cooking -- aptly titled The Elements of Cooking -- fell flat for me (you can read about why here) -- but I've been a fan of his "Chef" books. I'm also supportive of anyone thinking about weight-based ratios. Having said that, I'm a bit worried about oversimplification -- that biscuit dough up there gives me pause. Anyone got a preview copy? [Edited for spelling -- CA]

Well, sounds like that's going to happen whether the waiter wrote it down or not!

I think Mitch nailed the solution here: Doing this allows the server to correct errors, alleviates diner anxiety, and the show goes on.

Toby, how have you started to conceptualize the menu? From comments here and impressions of those who've been, you're setting up shop in a barren cocktail landscape. What are you making for the virgins? The curious? The converts?

I hope it still has all that great, crazy line art. That said, having looked at every "Polynesian" restaurant menu in the Johnson & Wales library (and there are a LOT), I can attest to the astonishing full color opportunities out there. Got to thinking about this while making a Grog Log Test Pilot tonight.

Drinking a Bamboo Cocktail with hoarded NP vermouth, snacking on Nam Yu peanuts. Most excellent.

Good point: if you weren't going to use the stuff this week, you weren't going to use it ever.

Chad, another kudo for the "Edge in the Kitchen" you've given me. I had at my Western knives (a 15/20 bevel) last weekend, but for the first time I sharpened the Japanese knives I have: a Ken Onion Shun chef's knife, a Gekko nikiri, and a Mac paring knife -- all now razor-sharp with a 10/15 beveled edge. The course and the book were my Beatrice. You rock. Going for the double-bevel on the Japanese knives made me finally see the light -- literally, as it gleamed off that beautiful edge. Call me vain, but I'm now thinking that I want to get a finer stone for finishing. I have only the basic two water stones that were delivered with the old Apex EdgePro: 180 medium and 220 fine. The EdgePro website is now sending out "220 Grit Medium Fine & 320 Grit Extra Fine" stones with the Apex kit. From what you wrote in the course and book, that 320 is equivalent to a 1200x Japanese water stone. That should do the trick, yes?

Michael, I think that most of us are scratching our heads because the formula you're asking us to test doesn't jibe with nearly all research and practice on baking formulae. Every professional pastry and baking recipe on the planet uses weight as the means of measurement, and adjustments are made for criteria such as pan size, altitude, and product quality variety. I think that Tri2Cook's point about moisture isn't a quibble; it gets to the heart of why most of us can't figure the raison d'etre of this formula. Take "butter," for example: the moisture content varies so widely that professional recipes specify butterfat percentages, particularly for items like croissants where that's the crucial ingredient. If you accept the importance of product variability (or the other criteria above that the formula ignores), then you're bound to be puzzled about the usefulness of the formula itself. And I certainly don't want to test a formula that I think is bound to produce bad product. Perhaps you can help us understand why you've chosen not to incorporate these basic elements of baking science and practice into your formula?

Following with great interest, Erin. That last post makes me wonder about the banchan variety in the book. Oh, BTW, I lived with a guy from Korea for two years in college, and the apple for bulgogi was standard.

Salt-packed anchovies have greater integrity than oil-packed fillets in general, but remember that they're not boned (or, I guess, spined), so that helps. A few minutes in hot oil and they break down just fine -- and you can snack on the backbones you pushed to the side of the pan to crisp up.

Thanks -- it was mighty fine. I urge you to procure all ingredients needed when you're shopping again! I agree completely about doing more planning. I just moved a bunch of items from the upstairs freezer down to the basement one, and saw so many things that could be a weekday evening meal if only I pulled them out a day or two in advance. I did that for one thing for Sunday; we'll see if it actually makes it on the table. I also found four ingredients that I'll be using for tonight's dinner. I'd move it to a smaller container and save it for summer and grilling. Glad others are weighing in on the Catalina -- I was stumped. ET respond to Dante's comment here -- -- which made me realize that my freezer has more stuff in it, by volume if not by variety. The turkey, chicken, onion, carrot, and celery trimmings produced a lot of stock. My new frugality is paying off in that regard, too.

You need to experiment. If you want that rich, umami background flavor, then one or two can often be enough. for something that requires a more noticeable anchovy flavor -- puttanesca sauce, say -- you'd add more. In addition, anchovies vary widely in size and flavor. Try some different options and see what you like!

From Toby Maloney, member Alchemist: Bartenders, servers and barbacks wanted: Calling all bartenders, cooks, baristas, foodies: The Patterson House, located at 1711 Division in Nashville TN, is launching a high end cocktail bar to be opened in early April. We are looking for passionate people with exceptional palates who know the value of following a recipe to tend the bar, serve and barback in a classic, culinary style. We will press our own juices daily, utilize egg whites and make our own bitters. While labor intensive and mentally challenging, the end results will be rewarding on multiple levels. Be prepared to spend a full week (50 hours + homework) in training. For a more comprehensive idea of the scope of our program, please follow this link to a recent NY Times article and pay particular attention to the paragraph on minimalism. In your cover letter, please include a brief insight as to why you want this job. Please send to thepattersonhouse@gmail.com We look forward to speaking with you soon.

Jack Rose is a great idea. Gateway flavors from ingredients unusual to the vodka & Red Bull crowd.

Welcome, Nadya! I started the evening off with another frugal cocktail. I had an orange that was missing about a third of its peel, and usually I'd toss any slightly old citrus because the oils don't release onto cocktails fully. However, after peeling it for my daughter, I realized that simply using a few of the wizened twists would do the trick: That's a Hoskins Cocktail from Chuck Taggart (aka sazerac round these parts), a fine drink that certainly benefits from an excess of orange oil floating atop the surface and rubbed along the rim. Dinner, though tasty, was much less exciting: the last of some dal, the last of the red-cooked chicken, mushrooms, and tofu sticks, the last of the cucumber sliced and in a raita (getting the idea?): The chana dal topped with raita and some store-bought mint chutney hit the spot: Nadya, I agree with you: there's a certain fun in playing with the ingredients on hand and seeing what you can make. I also have found that this stretch has made me appreciate those little jars of stuff I usually toss. What other new perspectives or habits have people noticed?

What you wrote about the V-slicer makes sense, Janet -- and I'm dying to know what stuff is heading for the auction...!

Do they leach moisture when you defrost them?

Here it's often available frozen in packets buried in one of the chest freezers at SE Asian food stores.

Tried again with fresh leaves and a longer steep (5 min), and that brought out more flavor. I like it quite a bit, but it still isn't blowing me away. Of course, YMMV!

I usually lean toward a sour structure too -- Sidecar, Aviation, Bourbon Crusta -- but if I had to choose one in that family I'd go for a really well made Daiquiri or a variation on that theme like a Papa Doble (Hemingway Daiquiri) or an el Floridita #1. As much as I like other hooch (especially gin), I think that rums are a better entry for many people who are wary. If someone's a bit more brazen, however, and I've got good mint on hand, I always start with one of Audrey Saunders's French Pearls. With a well-made Daiquiri, drinkers exclaim, "Wow -- that's good!" With a well-made French Pearl, they take another drink and exclaim, "What... oh my gosh... what IS that?" Then you know they're hooked forever.

Back to the good-looking luk lak (here in Providence you'll see it as loc lac). I've never seen it with tomato sauce. Erin, do you mean with chunks of tomato or a pureed, reduced sauce that includes tomatoes.

And my experience with lop yuk and pancetta suggests that fatty cuts lose their moisture more slowly than meatier cuts.

As a Berry fan I've often had the same thought about coffee brandy. A most excellent idea.

After this train wreck, I can imagine some people saying, "Uhhh... no thanks," and others thinking, "I can whoop Hosea without a hand, leg, and tongue -- where do I sign?"