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What could be richer then a authentic. "Monte Christo" made with Egg Soaked, fresh baked bread, Sliced Ham, Cheese, Sliced Fresh Turkey, Powdered Sugar, Jam and French Fries ? Well maybe, "Suey Kow", in addition to your Congee, or Steamed Pork Liver or Kidney's ? Ummmmmm. !

Maybe i've lived in Asia, much to long. But my destination for Desolation Brunch lately has been the, "Canton Noodle ", restaurant just north of Main Street on 12th Avenue, [not the same as the place in ID] where the serve superior, Chook or Congee [Rice Gruel]. I prefer Fish, or Kup Dai, with some Fried Bread very comforting and satisfying. Plus they have very convienient parking. My next choice would be getting to the closest, "Dim Sum", place, waiting for a carte to pass, and just pointing at things. It doesn't take long to bring me to alert status. Watching the carts for something interesting, it seems like i'm back in the mood. "Desolation", just became, "Destination". If i've got to go, "American", for my Brunch, theres no place better to me then, "Bakers Restaurant & Fountain", at 12534 Lake City Way since 1929. There I'd order a authentic, "Monte Cristo Sandwich", with home made french fries and delicious Jam on the side or any type of Old Fashioned favorite. Really hit's the spot. In a place like Seattle, i'm alway's surprised that this family owned and operated restaurant is so often overlooked as it's been consistant forever, doing what the do, very well. Irwin

Chef Fowke: The "Dijon", type Mustards are rarely ever served with Pastrami. The main reason is that in the better places serving "Pastrami Sandwiches", the preferred Mustard Codiment is a Brown Mustard Seed, NYC Deli Type Mustard. The more traditional reason is the Dijon Mustards aren't Kosher Certified, due to the Wine Content not being Kosher. There may be some types of Dijon, that are in fact prepared especially for Kosher Consumption but i'm not aware of any being sold. Irwin, kosher dijon is available. I can't remember the brand off the top of my head, but it's imported from France. But dijon has no business on a pastrami sandwich. Only grainy brown will do. As an aside, next week is Kosherfest, which is the big kosher food show at the Javits Center in NY. It's amazing how many products are available these days. I plan on attending and eating my way through. It may not be 'kosher' but I love to eat pastrami with Dijon...call me crazy. Chef Fowke: Your just slightly eccentric, what I consider crazy, is my friend who loves his Pastrami with Peanut Butter, or my other friend whom will only eat Pastrami. with Chopped Liver and Onions or another guy who ordered his Pastrami Sandwich with Liverwurst. The most important thing is, once you've ordered it, it becomes YOUR Pastrami. Your entitled to enjoy it any way you wish. But why do I shutter, when considering that for some reason both Pastrami or Corned Beef are commonly served with Mayo, Lettuce and Tomatoes almost anywhere in Seattle, even the Kosher Places. Very often right from the refrigerator. When I was at Roxy's that what a customer ordered. I often wonder, why the most popular supermarket, Pastrami's are made from Top Round ? I've tried it, but it doesn't taste like Pastrami. It seems that most ethinic foods are evolving into generics. Are our Deli Meats, becoming like Bagels. Once they invented a machine to form and bake them, they prolifergated everywhere you turned. Now they've become Supermarket staples. In every concievable variation. There are more variations of miscellaneous Turkey Products, {Few Taste Like Turkey] that it seems inconsievable to me that there'd be customers for. but it keeps growing. I've even seen a packed Italian Style Pastrami, together with Italian Style Roast Beef and Italian Style Corned Beef in a Deli Counter. Enjoy your Williams Sonoma Dijion Mustard, i'm going to try some on my Pastrami Sandwich with Swedish Meatballs. Irwin

That's absolutely not true. I personally have set up more then two dozen restaurants with aging rooms, and am aware of many more. It's true that many of the better, more effective aging rooms are not publicised, but it's primarily because they are utilizing Ban-Bac Unit's to provide effective dry aging, while controlling bacteria and what's considered noble-mold, on the exterior of the meat surface. The Beef is kept in a humidity, temperature, bacteria controlled atmosphere for the amount of type to properly age each primal cut, as it varies. The most popular primal cuts dry aged are whole short loins, bone in ribs, whole plates including briskets, loins, sirloins, whole rounds, hindquarters and forequarters. They are hung from meat hooks, as this provides complete air circulation, or placed on special shelves, where there is surrounding ventalation, and the cuts are easily rotated. In a correctly set up aging room the ban-bac units operate on timers. The ageing room is only opened daily for several hours at specified times. for deliveries, rotation of stock, removing meat for butchering to be prepared for anticipated service. These types of aging set ups are sometimes located at the wholesalers or jobbers facility, where the meat for specific restaurants are personally selected, tagged, dated and stamped by whomever has the responsability of buying for each restaurant. After beef is weighed, and selected a memo is issued that must be fully paid in no longer then one week or at the purchase date. The tagged cuts may shrink anywhere from 12% to over 25% by dehydration, serum loss, or excess fat, and dry exterior trim. Beef aged this way or even with Cryovac, should not acquire whats called a gamy taste or flavor. That is produced by a different process, under different conditions. The meat will have a natural, rich, tender beef taste and character due to the breakdown of enzymes, and the marbling of the interior fat. Irwin

Chef Fowke: The "Dijon", type Mustards are rarely ever served with Pastrami. The main reason is that in the better places serving "Pastrami Sandwiches", the preferred Mustard Codiment is a Brown Mustard Seed, NYC Deli Type Mustard. The more traditional reason is the Dijon Mustards aren't Kosher Certified, due to the Wine Content not being Kosher. There may be some types of Dijon, that are in fact prepared especially for Kosher Consumption but i'm not aware of any being sold. Now for my final report on the Bests Kosher Pastrami and the Seattle made , Glick & Ffloyd served at the Roxy Deli. I initally tried 1/2 the package [1 pound pk.] of the Best kosher on Tuesday. It was packaged Cut very Thin in a clump, piled up together. I attemped to seperate the slices to stack into my Sandwich individually. This was difficult, So I divided the package into 2 sections, and Microwaved on Thaw Setting just long enough to warm the pastrami. Then placed it on a larke platter, to seperate the slices spread out. Had a steamer going, producing steam. Placed the platter into the steam covered for 2 minutes. Removed from Steam. The Pastrami, was already beginning to curl from the short time under steam. [bad Sign]. Stacked the Pastrami, onto a Slice of Seeded, NY Type Kosher Rye Bread. Covered top slice with Hebrew National Deli Mustard and made my Sandwich. The Pastrami Sandwich, was saltier then I enjoy it, very dark color, peppery, with a funny artificial smoked taste. Put the other 1/2 away to try different preperation on Wednesday. Took Pastrami out of Refrigerator early enough so it would be at room temperature, to seperate slices. Laid out Slices on Plate, warmed by Zapping in Microwave with short bursts just enough to warm up. Put into Sandwich. Tasted a little better, salty but still not like Pastrami. Won't bother buying again. The Roxy Pastrami in both these tests , prepared the same way was much better, stood up well and tasted like Pastrami. Will try to buy whole piece in future, steam and cut myself. But don't belive they have ever been sent to Katz's. At least the 'Market Corned Beef Briskets" made in Seattle's, up to snuff. Irwin

Malarkey: There are fresh anything from the pig, available at most Asian or Mexican Markets located in Seattle. Even ordering from your supermarket, will not provide you with the fresh, cut from the carcass, Hocks at these stores. For your garlic sausage, it available in several varieties at any Russian/Polish Deli fresh everyday. I just bought a type of Garlic Sausage from Bobak in Chicago, that like a old fashioned Garlic Knockwurst, with real casing. Central Market in Shoreline also has Garlic Sausage. If your not sure whats available close to your neighborhood, i'd be glad to suggest some stores. Irwin

Two Books found me at a Thrift Shop today. " The Best of Chinese Cooking", by Cecilia Au-Yeung" Published 1985, and "Cooking Techniques", by, "Cox/Whitman' Published 1981. This book has excellent illustrations, step by step, that are very helpfull to readers. Irwin

I love GARLIC ! But I 've learned how to live with it. As any Italian Grand-ma will tell you, or in my case the Ultimate Garlic Lover, "James Beard", he of the Garlic Clove Chicken Recipe. Is there is a sure way of avoiding Garlic Breath, Onion Breath, and Garlic Distress.. It simple and efective for almost everyone. Cilantro, Curly Parsley or any Flat Leafed Parsley when eaten together, or with Garlic will remove the effects and potentency, that on many occasions is quite uncomfortable, unless your with other indulgers. Irwin

To me, this product doesn't taste even remotely like pastrami. In fact, I thought it was barely pastrami-esque. Too bad too because I do enjoy many other Best Kosher products, but this really pales. Irwin, I'll be curious to get your take on it. I think you're about to take a significant step backwards in satisfaction. =R= Ronnie: That's why i'm giving it the extra day. I require all the residual tastes of my Katzs, Pastrami to continue to glow, I touched, looked and copied off the package, but wasn't yet able to bring myself to actually eat it, Best's is mostly okay. I hope. Irwin

Chef Fowke: OOOOOP'S. "Brian", sorry it's too late. Tanya, Jerry and I have just demolished the Sandwiches fromm"Katz's", while picking at the 2 [1/2 ]S/W we saved from Roxy's. My friend bought them from Katz early at lunch time, brought then directly to federal express for First Available Fleight to Seattle. He simply placed them as wrapped from Katz, into a Parcel and Shipped. We picked them up at the Will Call counter in Seattle. It was almost like they were still warm. The truth is after opening the parcel and breathing in the aroma, there was no way I would have been able to wait for anyone to arrive, it demanded immediate devestation. Anyway you've been eating too much Pastrami, and i've spent too much time returning again and again to look at your photos to have self control when faced with the real thing. Actually I was posting on the board typing at my slow, somulent speed after eating so much good stuffs. During the period that you responded. Since you were viewed on the FOOD Network Today as per the earlier "eGullet Board Posting" with Smoked Sockeye Salmon I took the opportunity to suggest a Challenging project for you as a one-up that the results would be easy to arrive in Seattle. Check the board. I'll post from my notes the comparisons tommorow. My Strawberry Cheesecake and Cafe DuMonde French Market Coffee are waiting. Irwin Sorry, Tthat i've delayed my posting regarding the Patrami exported from Seattle to Katz Deli, in NYC. After checking the posted website the fact that the Seattle, Pastrami was prepared from Brisket seemed questionable. I'm pleased to report that, "Katz Pastrami", was from Navel Plate, not Brisket. Still even after being shipped from NYC, quite delicious, with the requisite Thum, or Taste that only comes from the Plate. It was leaner then I anticipated. The Colligen in the Fat, was broken down, with delicious fatty tenderness. Not heavilly spiced on the exterior, due in part to being sliced, right from the Counter Steamer. Still better then anything i've had anywhere but from NYC. This includes the Sattilite's in Las Vegas of NYC Deli's. The SEattle Made Pastrami, was surprising, even though made from the Brisket, it was aggresively spiced on the exterior, nicly smoked thru, with the Collegin being broken down. It was Saltier then expected, especially since it was machine sliced, standing refrigerated in the deli case, not covered, just stacked. The way, "Roxy", heated the serving was the first time i've ever seen Pastrami, heated and served in this manner. Simply weighed for portion size, them dumped onto the hot griddle, where Hambergers, and Bacon are grilled. Then sprayed with water from a spray bottle, then covered, just long enough to slightly warm and steam. Thrown into a wierd bread, with zero crust exterior, smeared with a gludens clone mustard, sliced and served with a purportly home made sour pickle, that sucked. The Pastrami was the best tasting i've eaten locally in my 15 years in Seattle, that was surprising since it tasted better then it looked, especially the way it was served. I'll go back, try to buy a piece, and steam in a wooden basket at home to see how it tastes. I'm hoping for the best as when picked on without the mustard or bread it tasted pretty good. Now the reason for my delay ! I purchased from Sams Club a 1 pound package of: "Bests Kosher", Sliced Lean Beef Pastrami, Coated with Flavoring and Carmel Color. In smaller print: Cured with Water, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Salt, Sugar, Sodium Erythorbate, Natural Flavorings, Sodium Nitrate. Says: Fully Cooked, and Kosher Never Tasted So Good. Nothing mentioned about, "Smoking", it's very thinly sliced in a bunched package. I'll try it tommorow as after trying 2 not bag, and great Pastrami's i'll give it a extra day for my enjoying the glow. Chef Fowke: In most of the Deli operations, outside of the States, customers are generally offered a choice of mustards. onr being a deli type, the other one made on premise from a Mustard Powder, mixed most often with beer, for a stronger mustard taste. In Hong Kong, England and Japan the Hotter Mustard was more popular. Irwin

Suzanne: The Chinese method of cooking Head on Shrimp, with Roe is very simple. Very quickly in a small amount of oil, with some jullianed or grated ginger, and some chopped garlic being put into the oil first, followed by the Shrimp. You stir fry them only enough to become opeaque, throw in some sliced spring onions. Stir once more remove from heat, then eat. The other method would be to prepare as Salt & Pepper Shrimp. Most often this would result in firm, sweet Shrimp. Occasionally due to handling, either by the Fisherman or the Shipper/Receiver they will become mushy. But poaching in oil is something i've not been experienced with, as when poaching shellfish i've always used a base broth from the shells with white wine and herbs, again only until the shellfish become opaque. Serving immediately or cooling in a bowl placed into ice water, then serving cold, with a dipping sauce. The one thing i'm sure of is never overcook shellfish if you wish to enjoy the basic taste and flavor. If you'd cooked quickly the roe would have tasted much more special then just crunchy. In Hong Kong the Shrimp Roe, or Crab Fat [Roe] is often prepared together with Sharks Fin in a extremely expensive Soup, that tasted better then almost any Soup i've ever tried. There were many trips made to the Noodle Makers Stall, where we'd bring the Fresh Shrimp Roe to be made into Hong Kongs ultimate Noodles. I sometimes buy the dried ones but they never capture the taste of the fresh. Even the times we'd bring the noodles to a restaurant to be cooked with the dinner we ordered, with a packet for the Chef of coarse, the Kitchen would be impressed, with everyone trying to make our meal special. More important, any way we can getthese Shrimp with Roe delivered to Seattle? Those Maine Shrimpers have a Bonanza waiting for them if the Market directly to the Asian Markets anywhere. Irwin

Jay: You've got a bag of Bliss. Many food professionals feel that dried Morels are sometimes better in Sauces and for Cooking then the Fresh. I prefer soaking them in Dry White Wine, squeezing the liquid out and them incorperating them into a Veal Demi-Gace/Cream Sauce and Cooking with Sauted Veal Medallions. For Hor Dourves they marry well when stuffed with a Fresh Small Oyster, snipped chives, garlic and butter. Then Simply Broiled. They also after being soaked be used in the same manner as fresh Morels, but are superior in Soups or Sauces. Irwin

Chef Fowke: OOOOOP'S. "Brian", sorry it's too late. Tanya, Jerry and I have just demolished the Sandwiches fromm"Katz's", while picking at the 2 [1/2 ]S/W we saved from Roxy's. My friend bought them from Katz early at lunch time, brought then directly to federal express for First Available Fleight to Seattle. He simply placed them as wrapped from Katz, into a Parcel and Shipped. We picked them up at the Will Call counter in Seattle. It was almost like they were still warm. The truth is after opening the parcel and breathing in the aroma, there was no way I would have been able to wait for anyone to arrive, it demanded immediate devestation. Anyway you've been eating too much Pastrami, and i've spent too much time returning again and again to look at your photos to have self control when faced with the real thing. Actually I was posting on the board typing at my slow, somulent speed after eating so much good stuffs. During the period that you responded. Since you were viewed on the FOOD Network Today as per the earlier "eGullet Board Posting" with Smoked Sockeye Salmon I took the opportunity to suggest a Challenging project for you as a one-up that the results would be easy to arrive in Seattle. Check the board. I'll post from my notes the comparisons tommorow. My Strawberry Cheesecake and Cafe DuMonde French Market Coffee are waiting. Irwin

What was the result of this investigation? Am I living close to the source, yet in a region that claims to have no decent deli food? I had a nice pastrami sandwich at Persimmon, in Seattle, recently - even though they put mayo on it!!! three dozen oyster, local brewed beer...apps at Brooklyn, a martini at Oceanaire, dinner at the Palace Kitchen.... Oh yeah, I went to Seattle for a reason. I missed the tour of the pastrami shop, maybe Irwin can help us with this topic. Chef Fowke: As per your request on eGullet, I have over reacted as usual. My first stop was for a Pastrami S/W at the Kosher Deli/Restaurant in Renton. I ordered a "Pastrami", on Rye. Waitress asked if I wanted, "Mayonasse". after the double take, my responce was "Hot Pastrami", with Mayo? Her reply, didn't know you wanted it hot? Well I overcame my shudder, and politely requested the sandwich be served hot, without lettuce [just in case] or mayo. Sandwich came, microwaved together with the bread, salty, over nuked and not very good. My co-diner had ordered a Kosher Hamburger, it was also Salty, and served with Frozen French Fries and non-descript pickle slice. Nex stop. "Roxy's" on 1st in Pioneer Square. The Asian Food looked pretty good. Took home the Pastrami. Next stop, "Roxy's", at 24th Ave and 80th Street. Located in,"Cascioppo Brothers Italian Meat Market" called 'Roxy's Deli @ CasCioppo's". Once I arrived I order a, "Pastrami S/W with Mustard" and a NY Potato Knish to go. My knish was "microwaved". The Pastrami was pre-sliced by Machine, taken from a refrigerated deli display case, weighed, and them dumped on a Hot Griddle, sprayed with water, covered and allow to warm up. The Bread, was a Questionable, light brown covered Rye, definately not jewish style, coated generously with a Gludens clone mustard. To add to this culinary mystery my Charge card receipt was from "P@G Meats Corperation", located at 1233 NW Norgross Way, Seattle, Wa. 9817 Nothing listed in the phone book for P&G Meats, or Glick @ Froyd. I had heard that, 'Cascioppo', had outgrown the capacity at that location since they manufacturer Seattle best Italian Pork or Chicken Sausages. They also make quite good Landjaegen and Beef Jerky, both listed on the internet site. Pastrami is advertised as being processed from a "Whole Brisket". averaging about 3 Pounds each. Even wierder the say that their ,"Corned Beef", is from the "Bottom Plate", that a first for Corned Beef. Unless they have given up the ghost, "Katz" has always had their Pastrami made from Packers Grade, Choice, "Navel Plates", only. No other cut has all the characteristics of a Katz Sandwich. I've been to the factory that made the Pastrami, prior to exporting it into Hong Kong with my supplier and the owner of Bens Deli, that was located for years down the block from Katz who also purchased from them. Just to make this comparrison on the up and up, I have arranged with my friend who lives close to Katz's to buy and ship via Federal Express, packed in Ice Paks 2 of Katzs Pastrami Sandwiches, purchesed over the counter. I've saved 1/2 of the 2 sandwiches bought yesterday in the cold part of my refrigerator in a sealed package for comparing both products at room temperature. After i've got my Katz i'll attempt a objective comparison. Preferring to wait for my opinion. Irwin

I'm glad that , "Langers", is finally Hand Carving their Pastrami Sandwiches. I've enjoyed them for years, but when they were busy all the Deli Meats were Machine Sliced. When it was slower they'd Hand Carve on request. It's still not NYC, but it's pretty close, especially when your in LA. Irwin

Your best evolution from European into Asian Baking methods and comparisons can be best achived thru becoming familiar and experimenting. Many aren't aware that many of Asian applications in Baking are related to Portugesse Baker's, whom settled into Okinawa, Japan, Manila, China, Hong Kong and Macau. The Japanese words Pan, and Tempura are from Portugese. The Egg Tarts, Steamed Nut Cakes, Curry Puffs, Jellies and Sweets so popular at Dum Sim service are all from Portugel. Most Phillipine Cakes and Breads as well. If you research Portugese Baking and Desserts, many of these or very similar items are traditional. To become familiar, especially in hands on preperations it better, to permit yourself to become involved and learn methods. Even presently some of the best quality Baked Goods in Asia are available in Macau, Hong Kong and Vietnam. Irwin

Preparing Beef or Pork in this method works well with any dehydrator, or even if you've got a oven at home or in the restaurant with a pilot light, just leave it overnight strung up inside the oven after it cooled down to about 110 degrees after dinner service as the temperture will slowly lower permiting curing and drying. I prefer slicing, blocks of boneless aged top round, after semi-freezing, then slicing thin on a electric slicer. For Pork I prefer using the defatted loins, or top round from the leg, but it doesn't need aging. This Mexican Dish may also be seasoned in the Asian Style either sweet or curried and Teri Yaki, or Chili Spicy as well. It can be preserved quite long, if after preparing you place into a Vacuum Pakage or even a Jar. It seems to keep for months under refrigeration this way, and my kids take it Camping and Hiking in the Vacuum Paks and have used it over several weeks with no refrigeration. It's delicious as a snack, or to enhance taste and flavor with Beans, Rice, Vegetables or Stews. Irwin

I've enjoyed these post's about dining in Ridgewood. This sure isn't anything like the town I left after selling my home in Franklyn Lakes after re-locating to Hong Kong in 1964. I had spent some time attempting to introduce a more interesting Menu at the 'Hunt Tavern", but Sliced Steak S/W and Meat Loaf remained the most popular dishes. The most exotic meals were provided at a place that had different china for each setting. Most popular for each extreme was T&W, Olsens and the Ho-Ho-Kus Inn. Irwin

In reality, the more relaxed an animal is before you kill it the better it tastes. The best cattle in France are hand killed. The butcher walks into the field and slowly approaches the steer. He pets the animal and makes it feel comfortable before he quickly slits it throat. This reduces the release of hormones into the flesh and preserves the tenderness of the meats. On a sidebar.... anyone who has gone tuna fishing can tell you of the 'high' you get from eating raw tuna right after it is caught. Because of the fight the meat is full of adrenaline...fun for the first ten minutes but your heart gets tired very quickly! This is true , but the actual thoughts and emotions reflecting,"Eating Dog Meat" were staged and set up, by a "Shock", Movie under the guise of being a Documentry by a french production compay, that showed "Dog's being prepared from Eating", in a graphic was intending sensationalism. This Movie, one of a very successful series was called. "Mondo Caine", wouldn't be surprised if prints were available on E Bay. It was set up to show the Dogs being "tenderized", by being cruely beaten with sticks. This is something that is abborant to any Asian Culture who has traditionaly eaten dog. This information is available should anyone wish to research the topic. In fact in the Phillipines and Indonesia they breed dogs, for this purpose and treated them with care, only wanting then to grow chubby, prior to being utilized in as they felt a kindly manner. I don't advocate this, but it's bad enough without being sensationalized for whatever reason. Irwin

I've just purchased some type of mixture., I'm serious it in brand new condition. But i'm not sure what Catagory it belongs to. It's a combination of Videos and a Book, plus a letter from the USDA. "Cooking A World of New Tastes", USDA Training Videos and a 112 page referancw guide. There's no ISBN, but it's published by the USDA Food and Nutrition Service 1998. The letter is from: Shirley Watkins a USDA , Under Secretary. There are Four Sealed Videos, and it's all put together in a interesting plastic box to appear in book form. the outside cover has printed 1998 FNS 304 and a symbol "TEAM" Nutrition USA. there's also aemblem stating. Telly Awards Winner 1998. Is this the type of thing that is worthwhile keeping in it's as new condition? Should I play the Videos ? Is it better to just keep this, or is it worth trading or selling. If it was just a cookbook, then i'd simply enjoy reading. But since I'm one of the rare persons without a video player i'd rather get advice. Irwin

Jim; Are you sure that you've got Triangle Tip or Bottom Sirloin ? If your positive this is the correct cut, your in for a treat. This is the most vesatile cut for almost any utilization. I introduced it to, Luchows and Steuban Tavern in NYC for Sauerbrauten, Braised Beef with Onion Gravy, Sliced Sirloin Steak, Ginger Beef and Pot Roast I've used this cut from Elk, Caribou, Water Buffalo and Bison. If prepared with care, or ofen without it's fool proof, even hard to screw up the slicing. For Braising i'd suggest that you cover the dried meat, piercing the skin with slivers of Garlic, and pepper [no salt] them coat with some flour. Heat oil in a Skillet or even a Dutch Oven [just enough to barely cover the bottom. Remember Buffalo cooks differently then Beef, since theres generally very little marbling. Brown on both sides in the oil, plus brown bottom, sides and corners. Slice or Dice some onions, shred a few carrots, dice some sweet peppers, hot pepper if you wish, several garlic cloves and couple of diced celery stalks. Saute this in the oil while the meat rests until onions start to become translucent. Add some red wine, chicken or beef broth and return beef into pot. Depending on your preferance this can be finished in your oven or stove top. Either way first cover your pot to retain heat and moisture with Foil. Simmer on Stove Top or Braise in oven at 300 degrees, alowing the meat to cook in it's own juices, and break down the collogen. The only difference is if you'd wished a tomato flavor to help enrich the sauce would be to add a small [6 oz] can of tomato paste mixed in after sauteing the veggies before putting the beek back to cook. Make sure to add in the juices that dripped onto the plate when the meat was resting. The sauce will be very rich, with some thickening. Some cooks like to serve with the veggies as they are. Others may prefer using a immersion blender or putting the vegetables and all the pan sauce into a blender or processer to smooth it out, either method works, When your finishing the sauce salt to taste if you wish, or leave it to your guests. I left it out since I wanted to keep as much juice and character into the finished meat. Irwin

Rachel: Thank you, thats him. I added a extra "S" to his name. My wife Sandra was quite friendly with him, and my daughters Arlene and Bonnie babysat his children. He was considered a leading authority on 'Taoism". Was working on a paper that my wife assisted him with about ethinic origins and history in Hawaii. I have a copy of his book about his stay in China in storage, We knew many ofthe people who he spent time with before moving to Honolulu. I'm pleased that he's still at UH. Wasn't aware of the cookbook, but knew about his familiarity with traditional tea ceremonies. Thank you for the update. Irwin he was

Sorry! HRC refers to "Hawaiian Regional Cuisine", a movement that arose among Hawai`i chefs in the late 1980s that sought to create a genuine haute cuisine out of local ingredients, a cuisine that match up with any of the great cuisines of the world. Until then, as you know, most of the food offered in the top-drawer dining establishments of Honolulu, particularly the hotel restaurants, was based upon "continental" cooking. Furthermore, the most prized ingredients were often flown in from the mainland, not procured locally. In 1991, twelve of the members of this movement banded together to create something called Hawaiian Regional Cuisine, Inc., an organization devoted to furthering their cause and spreading their ideas about cuisine. The original members included Sam Choy, George Mavrothalassitis, Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi, and eight others, who still in many ways form the core of the high-end culinary power establishment in the state. HRC chefs urged local agricultural producers to provide higher-quality and more varied ingredients, and were willing to pay prices to match. Like Alice Waters and other pioneers of California Cuisine, they sometimes went out of their way to nurture these producers and prominently feature the producers' names on their menus. From the very beginning, HRC dishes took influences from around the Pacific Rim, most notably Japan, China, Korea, and Thailand. Hence much of HRC cuisine consists of "East-West Fusion". Indeed, it's reasonable to say that the HRC chefs were the main reason for the "fusion" boom nationwide in fine dining during the 1990s (sorry Wolfgang and Vong). They are also the reason you began to see dishes like "Seared Ahi" on menus of restaurants nowhere near Hawai`i. These fusion tendencies, while they in some way reflect the ethnic diversity of the islands, did not really build upon the everyday dining habits of the local people. Perhaps in some ways this is inevitable, as any haute cuisine must in some way separate from itself from ordinary cooking. However, it does raise the question of just how "local" HRC really is, despite its undeniable championing of locally-produced ingredients. Another criticism of HRC has been its exclusiveness, starting from the decision to limit the membership of HRC Inc. to the twelve original members. This has caused some resentment among certain chefs who were not invited to join. It has also generated criticism that HRC is somewhat contrived, that it is as much a marketing campaign as it is a culinary movement. Of course, the same might have been said about California Cuisine or French Nouvelle Cuisine in earlier times as well. Whatever the final judgement, there is no question that HRC has greatly expanded the national and international visibility of Hawai`i as a fine dining destination. Anyway, that's making a long story fairly short! Again, we truly appreciate your past accomplishments and continuing devotion to the islands. I'm sure the food community here will continue to find many ways to make use of your great expertise. Just curious, are any of your children involved in the food industry? Mahalo, Sun-Ki Aloha Sun-Ki: Thanks for the one up about the "HRC". Contrary to what most people think, we were serving reguarly at "Lisboa", selections of seafood from various local sources. Such as: Squilla Opi Gopy Pipi Pipi Sting Ray or Skate Periwinkeles Whelk Sea Cucumber Many under Utilized Fish Species We also served only Island Pork and Beef We imported Portugese Sausage and Morrcella from San Jose and Newark because the quality was required for our menu. We even had sources for local Goats and Rabbit. The majority of our Herbs, were from local asian growers or from Kaui. We purchased local free range Chickens If you cared and tried to get the best local merchants were very supportative. We even provided the seeds for some herb varieties. Where else were you able to get a bounty of Squash, Zuccinni and Pumpkin Blossoms year round We even had growers providing us with many of the hottest chili's in the world. Thai, Phillipine, even Jamacian Scotch Bonnet's. There's Bounty available for the taking, you've only have to be willing to nurture it's development. My children all worked in Food Service while attending school in Hawaii. Oldest daughter worked at the, Kahala Mall, "Yum Yum Tree", as a waitress along with Pat Saki's daughter. Then worked while attending UH at the "Third Floor Restaurant", at the Hawiian Regent Hotel until earning her MBA before attending Law School. Second Daughter also worked initaly managing the ,"Old and New" Shop and waitress at the "Bistro Restaurant" on Kapiolani BLvd. While at UH she instructed in Diving and provided the Ski Reports on the Radio. After graduating UH majoring in Enviorment, she Recieved her Masters from Havard, MIT, and TUFTS in Enviormental Studies one of the only 25 provided yearly by a combined program. My son worked BOH at various Restaurants and at the Ilikai Hotel. All three kids pitched in working at Lisboa. None are currently working inFood Service. Irwin

Too bad it didn't work out. With time, I'm sure you're completely correct that the drinks could have been a great success. And without some of the gimmicry that characterizes Jamba Juice and the like. Anyone who wants to see an interesting menu comparison can look at the names of the juice and smoothie options at Papaya King and compare them to those at Jamba Juice. The ones at Papaya King simply bear the names of the fruits that they're made from - Papaya, Mango, etc. with a few simple concoctions like Coconut Champagne. The ones at Jamba Juice seem to be slogans rather than descriptions - all of them have ™ or ® after them - what exactly is "Carribean Passion™"?. O.K., my rant aside, it would have been great to have a branch of the great NY institution Papaya King here in Hawai`i. By the way, under Jenai Sullivan Wall, Foodland has been doing a great job of promoting locally-made food products. Here's an article in the Advertiser about their latest effort. Lynn's Deli in Ala Moana has closed down. They moved for a while to the Makai Market Food Court on the ground floor of the center for a while before moving out completely. I'm not sure if they are still in operation elsewhere, though there is no "Lynn's Deli" or "Lynn's Bakery" listed in the phone book. I think you're referring to the "Maui Hot Dog" made by the Maui Meat Co., though I don't remember the name of the ranch they came from. Unfortunately (sigh), they are no longer being made, at least not the genuine article. However, we still do have "Redondo's Red Hot's" from Waipahu, which while not quite the same as the Maui Hot Dog, maintain the tradition of the neon-red cure! I didn't mean to suggest that hot dogs are not eaten very much in Honolulu, just that they might not be quite as popular as on the mainland given the other options that are available. One local development in recent years is the shoyu dog, which is hot dogs braised in spiced soy sauce, sort of like shoyu chicken, and is popular for plate lunches. Another is the Hot Dog Musubi, which is a frankfurtherish version of the Spam Musubi - a shoyu hot dog is split lengthwise, then tied onto a rectangular block of rice with a piece of nori seaweed. It's great that Korean food is so widely available in Seattle. I don't have the exact population figures, but I'm sure the Korean immigrant population there is probably one of the five or six highest for all metropolitan areas in the country. Certainly the availability has increased a huge amount in Honolulu as well. The pioneers of local Kim Chee manufacturing were "Hahm's", "King's" and (on the Big Island) "Kohala" Kim Chee companies, each of which have been around for a several decades. More recently, a lot of small and large Korean specialty grocery stores have sprung up, each selling their own house brands of Kim Chee in many varieties. The biggest Korean Supermarkets are "Palama" and "Queen's" supermarkets, which both sell a large amount of ready-to-eat foods as well as grocery items. The biggest concentration of Korean restaurants is on Keeaumoku St. near Ala Moana, coincidentally (?) near where many of the Korean Bars were originally (and some still are) located. Don Ho is still wowing the grandpas and grandmas from Podunk at the Waikiki Beachcomber and even has his own restaurant at the Aloha Tower Marketplace, though I've never eaten there. His daughter Hoku is also beginning to make a name for herself - she sang the theme song for "Legally Blonde". . . and we still miss Rap. I can't believe that it's been nearly 20 years since he passed away. They still play "Fate Yanagi", "Room Service", "Young Kanakas" on the radio. . . it never gets old. In a way, his comedy helps each generation define and redefine what they think "Hawai`i" ought to stand for in the minds of its own people. Even today, the few remaining Korean-style bars still distinguish themselves via the high quality of their food as much as their, errh, other attractions. I had always wondered about the origin of the "Korean Chicken" that gets sold at so many plate lunch places nowadays, since it is not a traditional Korean dish. You've solved that mystery for me. If they had called it "Chicken Miss Kim" or "Chicken Arirang" it wouldn't have been such a mystery in the first place! By the way, would you happen to have the name of that take-out place you mentioned? Unfortunately, I couldn't find any reference to a Dr. Sasso in the UH directory. Nor Flora Chang or her husband in the Geology dept. I suppose they have all retired and are now enjoying their lives playing golf and flying off to Las Vegas every now and then. Thanks again Irwin for a very informative post! Sun-Ki: I wasn't aware that your ethinic background was Korean until you posted with Sun-Ki. The lady who introduced the Chicken Wings so successfully often ran adds in the 'Advertiser" promoting them for take out sales, or eat in. I would have to dig into many boxes to find the card with her name and the name of her Bar. She did advertise reguarly from 1984-87 while I still resided in Hawaii full time. Lest we forget i'm sure the Number one Hot Dog, type of Sausage product still sold in Hawaii continues to be the canned,"Vienna". I could understand the rationale for Spam, but never the Vienna Sausage popularity. Island loyalty for products, even things like canned Cake Frosting or 'Chef Boy R Dee", canned pasta. The only acceptable brand of "Lunch Meat", was Armour. THe one very popular product that seemed to be price related not brand was, "Imported Tinned Corn Beef". I'm amazed that Lynn's closed since it gross sales were quite high. The Chinese Plate Lunch with the Double Lined Set Up, owned by the same principal used to be the highest grossing per square foot business in Ala Moana Center is it still in business or the Italian Place he opened adjacent? Jamba, is a chain who has been successful by applying locations together with purporting healthy product. In my opinion they aren't that different then, "Orange Julius', who put a scoop of Dextrose Mixture into their drinks. Jamba pretty much does the same, by will charge you extra for the types of Powder that they add. Smart if your able to pull it off, under the guise of Health Food. The Papaya King operation wasn't a branch store. It was opened by a friend of the owners who had relocated to Honolulu and conviniced them it would be feasable for him to bring to the Islands after he apprenticed at the place in NYC a similar version. Unfortunately it wasn't able to succeed. Probably Dr. Sasso was lured away from UH, as he was a published author as well having been a Rhodes Scholar. Irwin

I've seen in Hong Kong a Chinese Chef produce a light as air foam, from a fish head essence, that he added a small amount or cream of tarter and powdered egg white, then using a pump vacum sealed into a container. When he released the vacum the stuff floated in the air, settling onto the top of the serving bowl, tasted okay, thought at the time it was to contrived. What did I know! Irwin