Recommendations for Brussels

[Culinista]

Just reporting back from Belgium:

We enjoyed Comme Chez Soi's famously charming and intimate Art Nouveau interior. The food was very good but does not quite measure up to the raves I hear, possibly from overly patriotic Belgian friends. I do like the fact that Chef Wynant has resisted all of the Adria-inspired fads and gone his own way. In fact, his classic nouvelle Belgian-French cuisine with fusion flirtations looks almost rebellious in a sea of foams and liquid nitrogen. The amuse looked circa 1970s, and the escargot on orzo with tomato sauce tasted more Chef Boy-ar-dee than I imagined possible for snails. At first we were both put off by the first fishy bite of the scallops mi-cuit sandwiched with cream of foie gras, but with each bite, we grew fascinated by the play of flavors of the scallop, foie, radish, cauliflower florets, arugula, sesame and balsamic vinaigrette. The fishy sensation disappeared, and instead of growing tired of it, I wanted more with each bite. This was a gutsy dish of strong, odd flavors. Next came the gros langoustine, which the waiter announced as jets de houblon, probably because the hop shoots outshone even the langoustine crusted with pine nuts in a cream and coral sauce with seaweed. Jets de houblon look like large bean sprouts and remind me of white asparagus and bamboo shoots and other heralds of spring. The two-inch square of turbot was topped with bone marrow and oysters, making each bite quite a contrast. The we had three cubes of almost marbled seared duck breast perched on a round of herb-stuffed rolled duck leg, roquefort souffle in lieu of cheese and a gratin of coconut and mango for dessert.

Aux Armes de Bruxelles is probably the only real restaurant on the r. Bouchers, although I thought the celebrated frites tasted somewhat bland and almost commercial, as did the mayonnaise base for their tartar sauce. The outstanding dish was white asparagus a la flamande. I normally hate eggs, but the egg, parsley and butter sauce was lovely, and the perfect texture very difficult to achieve. (We had better frites at 'T Kelderke, but the sauce flamande was far inferior.) The waterzooi of turbot was also excellent, the eels in green sauce quite good for stewed eels, and the calves' brain only OK. They were out of raw mussels, or I would have tried them.

I took BON's suggestion and tried Yamato, a tiny but astonishingly authentic ramen bar near Porte de Namur. You can't beat it for a budget lunch, since their most expensive dish is 10 euros. They serve both miso and shoyu ramen as well as katsudon and gyoza in the evening. I found the shoyu soup to have great meaty flavor but almost criminally salty--maybe they had let it get too concentrated, since most people were ordering miso ramen. The noodles were terrific, imported frozen from Japan. Hours were irregular, and they don't take reservations. If you are a Tampopo fan, this is a good place to go.

In the same neighborhood, we had our best meal in Brussels at La Creche des Artists, a small gem of an Italian restaurant ar 21 rue de la Creche (02) 511 22 56. This is the holy grail, a modest neighborhood restaurant with a chalkboard menu dictated by the market and fantastic homestyle Italian food, no dish exceeding 20 euros. The restaurant is run by a Tuscan mother, Neapolitan father, with a Congolese treasure of a chef. We started with a sauteed calamari in a piquant tomato sauce tossed at the last minute with fresh tomato and arugula, served straight from the battered skillet. (Since the tiny open kitchen was just steps away, this service optimizes what Grace Young would call the "breath of the wok.") Salami and Parma ham were already on the table, on the house. The penne came with a veal ragu to die for, deglazed with Brunello di Montalcino and served with the same (1998 Brunello de Montalcino Fattoi. We had already polished off a Mezzopane 1999 with a friend who had to leave after antipasti). The sauce was enriched with a little veal liver and celery. Then we had thin slices of tender roast lamb with stewed endive, but we nearly came to blows over the tiny roasted new potatoes. They came out of the oven beautifully crusty all over and creamy on the inside. Then they brought us cheese--a very young pecorino exploding with black truffle, and the best aged Parmigiano I've ever had. We shared a hunk of classic tiramisu and somehow managed to walk to our hotel on the other side of town after being plied with grappa di brunello di verbena and limoncello, respectively. The brief but well selected wine list had only Italian wines at good restaurant prices, starting around 20 euros and going up to the 2001 Solaia at 235 euros.

Some people might sniff that 'T Kelderke is touristy, but they have the best frog legs I've ever had, and I've rarely liked them when I've had them. These were pan fried to an addictive crispness that did not make them tough. They were drenched like escargots in garlic and butter. They also had great beers, and I've always hated beer. We tried Blanche de Wittekerke, Chimay Bleue, and Mort Subite Geuze Lambic. As I said, I liked their frites better than Aux Armes de Bruxelles', but not their sauce flamande. We found that mussels steamed in vin blanc retain more of their pleasant mineral flavor, while mussels in beer have a sweet taste.

We went to Francois for seafood on Place de Ste. Catherine--very nice place, if somewhat gruff service. We had the bouillabaise du Nord as part of a very reasonable 33 euro menu, starting with a half-dozen oysters on the half shell and ending with chocolate mousse. The grilled turbot was also very good--simple, not overcooked, with fresh vegetables in a light vinaigrette.

We did make a side trip to Bruges and de Karmeliet, but that is for another thread.

[kerriar]

In the same neighborhood, we had our best meal in Brussels at La Creche des Artists,

Good choice and well worth finding in the somewhat dingy back streets near Ixelles town hall.

It's a personal favourite and fills up easily. There is occasionally a temptation to keep places like this to oneself but it is generally counterbalanced by the sharing of pleasure.

Culinista has has got the food just right in this description - the only suggestion I can add for the benefit of anybody who now wants to go to the Creche is to try the zabaglione for dessert.

[Culinista]

I might add that I saw a scrumptious-looking jambonneau caramelisee special at 'T Kelderke. Too bad we had already ordered!

We left our menu at La Creche up to Enzo, the owner's son. That was a good call.

Edited April 8, 2005 by Culinista (log)

[YKL]

Friends and I had a very good meal last Saturday at Senza Nome restaurant (22 Rue Royale Sainte-Marie, Schaerbeek area of the city)

As you might have guessed by the name, it's Italian (believe the owner is Sicilian specifically) and currently holds one michelin star.

I had a tartare of scallops on an artichoke cream to start, - which was light, fresh and flavoursome - a very good beginning. I also got a taste of the sardines starters (can't remember what they were stuffed with) which were good. I followed with involtini of beef with a very good onion / balsamic sauce - I particularly liked the balance of sharpness and sweetness. Can't recall what my friends had.

Too full for dessert - although there were good reports for the chocolate marscapone cream. But pleased that they made mint tea with fresh mint.

total bill for three of us for pre-dinner Kirs, starters, mains, a bottle of wine and some water, one dessert, three teas / coffees and a grappa and limoncello or two was less than 200 EUROS - so very good value I think, particularly when service was so engaging. We'll be back

cheers

Yin

[TGullet]

Hardly see any posts for Brussels. Am I missing the location on EGullet?

[Gifted Gourmet]

You're in the right place and I located a couple of things which are about Brussels:

restaurants in Brussels for vegetarians

Brussels Christmas Market with some nice photos.

Everything else that came up on a search focuses on Brussel sprouts ...

[TGullet]

Gifted: it is very kind of you to respond with the above info. The reason I posted my inquiry is the very few and not really current threads.

All of us here surely have more info and experiences?

[Gifted Gourmet]

Speaking of Brussels, and we were doing so just this week, there is a most delectable and visually delightful thread on the pastry of Brussels right here and, if you are awaiting some beautiful pastry shop photography, just scroll down to Schneich's post ... wow! That is impressive indeed!

[kerriar]

Brussels is one of the great food cities of Europe. It doesn't get so much attention on this thread for some reason - perhaps people who visit or live here simply have their own favourites.

There is info buried in old postings. Try some of the following:

What else in Brussels?

or

Hof van Cleve in Belgium 3 Michelin stars, Benelux new 2 & 3 star restaurants 2005

or

Recommendations for Brussels, Home of gastronomy

A search on the site may turn up more. This is just a quick check but you should find plenty of useful stuff. Try going for places that are not listed in the more commercial tourist guidebooks - they often have the best surprises.

[rockandroller]

Hi all,

I'm planning a large meeting for work this fall. We have a very small office in Brussels and they will be attending and we'd like to feature them somehow. My boss had the idea of one of our snacks or breaks being focused on "featuring" Brussels somehow. The obvious idea that came to mind was a Belgian chocolate on everyone's plate after they return from break (any recommendations as to brand, preferably one available somewhere in the US?), but is looking for some other way to incorporate Brussels, perhaps in what we direct the chef to make for lunch one day.

Am admittedly clueless as to what dishes would make easy-to-prepare, good corporate lunch food. Can anyone make recommendations as to dishes and/or recipes that are signature dishes of Belgium?

[MelissaH]

Well, if it's not taboo, how about something featuring one or another of Cantillon beer? Preferably in the proper glass?

MelissaH

[rockandroller]

I thought about beer, but this will be during a business lunch so no alcohol.

[whifflechef]

Going to brussles in september. Would like some restaurant recomendations please. First opportunity to eat at michelin rated rest. and I want to hit a least one Three star and one two star. Will be there thursday thru monday. Some small local treasures would be neat as well.

[Gifted Gourmet]

We have some discussions on Brussels and the dining there:

here

and here

and in this lengthy list of dining highlights of Brussels

[dellis453]

My parents are looking for somewhere nice for lunch that's not too noisy in Brussels ina couple ofweek's time- all these posts seem veryold! Any recent suggestions?

[Gifted Gourmet]

Any recent suggestions?

←

how about perusing these Fodor's links as a start?

[paulbrussel]

Going to brussles in september.  Would like some restaurant recomendations please.  First opportunity to eat at michelin rated rest. and I want to hit a least one Three star and one two star.  Will be there thursday thru monday.  Some small local treasures would be neat as well.

←

I am afraid the only ***-restaurant in Brussels is not worthwhile: Comme chez soi (see other thread for a report).

For starred restaurants I would recommend Sea Grill** and Bruneau** (formerly ***). Sea Grill and Bruneau are open on Monday. Bruneau is also open on Sundays and offers a good lunch for only 45 €; the wine list is also excellent.

[kerriar]

It would be hard to fault paulbrussel's top end recommendations. Sea Grill in particular cannot be long away from its third star.

Looking for "local treasures", the best advice would be to stay away from the tourist traps around the Grand Place and also to some extent the Sablon. There are exceptions and close to the Sablon you can trust either:

• Ciao at Rue J Steven 28 (tel 02-513.03.23) sober Italian style food cooked with some care, evenings only, best to book, not particularly cheap and certainly no pizzas.

• Le Clef des Champs nearby in rue Rollebeek (tel 02-511.11.93) main stream franco-belgian cooking, run for may years by an attentive couple for whom this is a way of life rather than a business (an observation which really applies to all the places mentioned), he at the stove and she front of house, food is fresh and authentic.

A bit further afield (i.e., 10 minutes by taxi – Brussels is compact) Chez Marie on rue Alphonse De Witte (02-644.30.31) has one star and offers a very good value fixed lunch. Carte is more expensive but wine list can contain some well priced finds. Although I personally like this place a lot, for some reason the style and the food does not appeal to everybody – one friend told me he will not go back there as it has "too many left-wing media intellectuals" for his taste which must be a new line in restaurant reviews. It’s a bit hard to find – if you go there ask the taxi to drop you by the "steamship" style Radio Building in Place Flagey and Chez Marie is just behind the church.

Also serious-end Italian for either lunch or dinner is La Crèche des Artistes in rue de La Crèche (tel 02-511.22.56) which is mentioned elsewhere under Brussels.

Of these, the best authentic local lunch spot for your parents would probably be Le Clef des Champs

Edited September 8, 2006 by kerriar (log)

[paulbrussel]

La Clef des Champs is certainly a very good (more traditional food) restaurant to go to, especially for lunch. They offer a 3 course prix fixe menu (about 7 choices for starter and alike for the entree) at lunch time for 16 €, the same for dinner for 32 €.

This is only for Mondays to Fridays.

One of my favoorite restaurants in Brussels is the more modern cooking Resource, this year being the Most Promising Chef of the Brussels Region in the guide GaultMillau (http://www.restaurantresource.be/).

Edited September 8, 2006 by paulbrussel (log)

[Nino Bergese]

Since it already is September I might be to late for your trip. But I will try to give my suggestions anyway. I think the people above me on this page covered the 2 and 3 star restaurants very well so I will stick to local treasures.

If you are in the touristy area and visiting places like Grand Place and the peeing boy then you have a nice restaurant within walking distance called Ogenblik. It is a very relaxed restaurant with friendly staff that serves good traditional Belgian food. The restaurant is very cosy as well.

To get you away from Grand Place you can always visit another square called Place Sablon. On this square all the restaurants are ok. I would go to Lola on the west side of the square. You should be able to get a very traditional Moules Frites in a modern environment there. From Place Sablon it is not far to the parliament of justice where you have a good view over the city. This area is off the tourist track, but well worth a visit and within walking distance from the more common tourist areas.

Let us know where you ended up and what you thought about the city and it's restaurants.

Most good restaurants in Bruxelles (even without stars) are busy so the best thing is to book a table in advance.

http://www.ogenblik.be/

http://www.sensum.be/guide-english/restaurants/lola.php

[rlibkind]

Any opinions from our Brussels residents of the restaurants in Ste. Catherine?

[kerriar]

Place Ste Catherine, the old Brussels fish market area, has many fish restaurants which seem crowded all the time. Alas most of them are just ok but seem to have little problem attracting tour groups.

On the Quai aux Briques, both Jacques and Bij den Boer are better than the average. Neither seem to have changed anything in years so you can expect dishes like croquettes aux crevettes, tomato crevettes, bisque de homard, sole meuniere or the inevitable bouillabaisse de la Mer du Nord - and of course good frites.

For something slightly more raffiné, you could try Le Loup Galant (02-219.99.98) which serves a Marseille style bouillabaisse. If I had visitors who really wanted to eat in the Ste Catherine area, this would be my first choice but frankly Brussels has much more to offer.

[paulbrussel]

I can fully agree with kerriar that most of the restaurants in the Saint-Cathérine area are not outstanding.

Apart from what he mentions, you could also try:

LA MAREE

Tel. : 02.511.00.40

Fax : 02.511.86.19

Rue de Flandre 99

1000 BRUSSEL ( STAD )

(Closed Mondays and Tuesdays: fish restaurant)

or

VIVA M'BOMA

Tel. : 02.512.15.93

Vlaamsesteenweg 17

1000 BRUSSEL ( STAD )

(Only opened for dinner on Thursdays, Fidays and Saturdays: specialised in organs.)

[pups224]

We are leaving for Brussels at the end of the week and were planning to celebrate the husband's major birthday at De Bijgaarden, a place he remembers very fondly from years ago. Unfortunately, the restaurant has lost both its Michelin stars and the ownership and chef have changed.

Has anyone eaten there lately and can report back? Is it worth the visit?

If not, are there any suggestions for an alternate meal? Bruneau? Sea Grill? etc?

[kerriar]

Go to two star Sea Grill and you will be assured a memorable meal - don't be put off by the hotel location, in truth it never intrudes. If you decide to go there for your special event, take your time, explore the menu with the knowledgeable staff and peruse the wine list which comes like an offering at a high mass. Expect to pay accordingly but it's worth it - this is not one of the overpriced pretentious and transient places but a serious world class restaurant, it is both classical and ambitious at the same time.