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Runny Eggs


Busboy

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By the way, pasteurized shell eggs are available these days and they're quite good -- I think they could easily spearhead a revival of Caesar salad made the right way.

The SF Chronicle Food staff did some testing of pasteurized eggs when they first arrived on the scene. The Chron was generally critical of the product. Of course this is an old article, and perhaps the processing is better now. http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?...&sn=001&sc=1000

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The predictability of sous vide is one thing, but I've found those eggs to have an entirely different texture from the basic poached egg: still soft and runny, but almost set throughout, with a really interesting custardy consistency.

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here's the process that Shola used at StudioKitchen. He was riffing on those eggs for a while, including one version with foie gras custard and truffles that Doc might be remembering...

I've been seeing it quite a lot elsewhere too. One of my favorites accompanies pork belly, submerged in a smoked onion dashi, at snackbar in Philly:

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Of course, a soft egg is great in the Momofuku Ramen too:

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I hope this trend stays with us for a while!

Edited by philadining (log)

"Philadelphia’s premier soup dumpling blogger" - Foobooz

philadining.com

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One of my favorites?

Sukiyaki with the titular (raw) egg. I love being an absolutely self-congratulatory idiot, speaking in my badly-informed Japanese, I'm sure (my late teacher, Fumio Toyoda Shihan, once murmured to me, "Paul - not everyone in Japan is Toshiro Mifune...relax..."), asking for an egg with the sukiyaki, oh so proud to be "an insider."

I will also never give up runny eggs, ketchup and tabasco.

-Paul

 

Remplis ton verre vuide; Vuide ton verre plein. Je ne puis suffrir dans ta main...un verre ni vuide ni plein. ~ Rabelais

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  • 3 weeks later...

Tom Sietsema deserves a friendly nod, too, though the home cooks of eGullet have been documenting the popularity of runny eggs for quite some time.

ETA: the little Judith Martin within all of us just put on her stiletto heels and started pacing.

Edited by Pontormo (log)

"Viciousness in the kitchen.

The potatoes hiss." --Sylvia Plath

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I'm curious how common pasteurised eggs are in other areas because I've been unsuccessful in trying to locate them in the DC area.  Luckily my kids are past the age where I need to care about that anymore.

If you are still looking, I found them at the Harris Teeter on Columbia Pike.

My last runny eggs were over wilted spinach on toast, dressed with a little olive oil and balsamic and sprinkled with coarse grey salt. I need to get some truffle salt.

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My last runny eggs were over wilted spinach on toast, dressed with a little olive oil and balsamic and sprinkled with coarse grey salt.  I need to get some truffle salt.

Sounds delicious. The truffle salt was a gift, and I find myself pulling it out of the cupboard just to take a whiff from time to time. Runny egg and parmesan polenta with plenty of butter and truffle salt makes a damned fine breakfast.

Edited by hjshorter (log)

Heather Johnson

In Good Thyme

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Where did this come from? 

It may have come from France. As I was explaining to a newly cholesterol-conscious friend, in France, there seems to be an unwritten law that you must consume at least 2-4 eggs a day, at least two of them runny. I've had them there served poached, in soup (Oeufs en meurette), definitely on salad (Salade Lyonnaise), and one more that I thought of when I started this post but can't remember.

I have a vivid recollection of my first visit to Paris 15 years ago, having dinner in an unassuming neighborhood restaurant with another American friend and some of his French friends. One of the party ordered oeufs en meurette as a starter, and I remember being taken aback that EGGS would be on a restaurant menu and that someone would actually order them. It took a while before I understood. Now a salade lyonnaise is one of my favorite informal Sunday suppers to serve to good friends.

Though these cautionary horror stories are making me rethink this. Does anyone have any safety advice to share about preparing eggs?


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